Page 255 of 255
#10161
Looks like the correct place to ask, I've got a Dean ZX guitar and it will just not intonation.

The guitar needed a new nut so I got a few different ones from Graph Tek, Black TUSQ 6060 and 6010.

The 6060 one gave me sitar sound on high E and when amplified that string was dead and I tried raising the nut and other various things but I wasn't able to fix it.

The 6010 has slightly wide E-E spacing, no sitar/dead strings but no matter what I do the strings are all quite sharp at the 12th fret, especially G string. Playing a chord with a open G string sounds absolutely horrible.

I've adjusted the truss bar to the point where the neck has a slight upward bow and the bridge is currently in position for semi-high action, more than I'd like but I've tried all sorts of positions with no success.

New strings each time.... 9-11-16-24-32-42

Been at this for about 2 weeks an not really sure how to fix this problem, any help would be much appreciated.
#10163
Quick question, so on my Epiphone Brent Hinds Flying V the neck humbucker is kinda loose and rattles against the body, Basically what I did to kind of fix it is put a foam earplug inside the guitar to keep the pick-up from touching the body. I suspect the springs are kinda weak/short so I went to StewMac but don't know what height of spring to order do I want the 13/16" or the 1/5-8" inch length springs?
#10164
anthonymarisc The longer the spring is, the more load you're going to be putting it under when you set the pickup height. Given that you think the existing springs aren't securing the pickups to the rings properly because they're not strong enough, then buy the longer springs and see if that helps.
Quote by Axelfox
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#10165
T00DEEPBLUE

I wasn't exactly good at Math back in school lmao, so I want the 13/16"?
#10166
Another quick question, I'm restringing my Flying V and the frets are a little discolored and dull looking and I am planning on trying to polish them. I weary of Steel Wool and thought maybe NevRDull would be good choice but I'm reading mixed opinions online. Of course I am planning on masking off the board with some low tack tape.
#10167
Quote by anthonymarisc
T00DEEPBLUE

I wasn't exactly good at Math back in school lmao, so I want the 13/16"?

Springs are cheap. Just buy a bunch of them and see which one fits the best.
Quote by anthonymarisc
Another quick question, I'm restringing my Flying V and the frets are a little discolored and dull looking and I am planning on trying to polish them. I weary of Steel Wool and thought maybe NevRDull would be good choice but I'm reading mixed opinions online. Of course I am planning on masking off the board with some low tack tape.

Nevr dull is fine. It's essentially a wool-like material saturated in brasso. 1500 grit sandpaper will do fine too.
Quote by Axelfox
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#10168
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Nevr dull is fine. It's essentially a wool-like material saturated in brasso. 1500 grit sandpaper will do fine too.


Cool, so I masked off the board and polished up the frets, you wouldn't believe how much black gunk came off those frets they're super shiny now but, I've created a really tiny problem. I used a razor blade to score the tape to reveal the frets for polishing and in doing so I created very subtle hairline scratches in the fretboard. They're not really noticeable but it's really bugging me. Am I able to use something like a fine grit of polishing paper from stewmac or something to buff out the scratches? Next time I'm probably just lay the tape parallel to the frets instead of cutting it.

I didn't use tons of pressure with the razor blade thank goodness but these scratches are really gonna bug me.
#10169
Why didn't you just cut the tape to width with scissors before sticking it on the guitar?

Putting tape on the fretboard wasn't really necessary anyway.

You're not going to be able to sand the scratches out easily.
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#10171
anthonymariscLive with it and learn from your mistakes. You can try and sand them out but it'll be a bitch to get them out since the scratches are right adjacent to the frets.
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#10172
I'm trying to figure out what the hell is wrong with my SG right now. I got some new strings a couple of weeks ago, and even after breaking them in, my intonation and stuff is all whacked out on the G string. It's always been a tad bit sharp (the tunomatic is as far back as it goes), and it hasn't given me much trouble. Well when I got the new strings and broke them in, now my G string's intonation is crazy.

I always stick to Hybrid Slinky's, so I didn't change what type of strings I use. I tried messing with my truss rod a bit, because it's helped me in the past, and it doesn't seem like it does much. I either can get a Csus chord to sound good and a D chord is out of tune, or vice versa. I also tried playing with the action, as the truss rod adjustments get me fret buzz here and there. Those chords sound fine, but then I also have fret buzz, so I try raising or lowering the action, and then my intonation is messed up again.

I've been trying to figure this out for the past 3 days, and it's getting on my nerves.
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#10173
How to string a guitar..... personally on a string through body I just do a string at a time and tone as I go usually, same thing with Floyd rose.... except I'll make sure the fine tuners are in a position that I won't run out of threads on the fine tuners for minor tuning tweaks
#10174
Quote by Horsedick.MPEG
I'm trying to figure out what the hell is wrong with my SG right now. I got some new strings a couple of weeks ago, and even after breaking them in, my intonation and stuff is all whacked out on the G string. It's always been a tad bit sharp (the tunomatic is as far back as it goes), and it hasn't given me much trouble. Well when I got the new strings and broke them in, now my G string's intonation is crazy.

I always stick to Hybrid Slinky's, so I didn't change what type of strings I use. I tried messing with my truss rod a bit, because it's helped me in the past, and it doesn't seem like it does much. I either can get a Csus chord to sound good and a D chord is out of tune, or vice versa. I also tried playing with the action, as the truss rod adjustments get me fret buzz here and there. Those chords sound fine, but then I also have fret buzz, so I try raising or lowering the action, and then my intonation is messed up again.

I've been trying to figure this out for the past 3 days, and it's getting on my nerves.

Hi Horsedick. <3

If the action is as low as it'll go without any significant fret buzz for the way you play, the neck relief is correct and you still cannot get the bridge to intonate, then you might need to resort to buying a new bridge that has a greater intonation range. If all the saddles are generally leaning towards the tailpiece end of their range, then that strongly indicates that the bridge was installed by Gibson a bit too far forwards at the factory. Which sucks.

But you can get replacement Nashville-style bridges with a longer intonation range than the stock ABR-1 that'll fit Gibson posts.

What type of bridge is currently on the guitar? Can you send pics? IIRC it's easy to tell Nashville from ABR-1 because the Nashville style don't have a retainer wire.
Quote by Axelfox
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#10175
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Hi Horsedick. <3

If the action is as low as it'll go without any significant fret buzz for the way you play, the neck relief is correct and you still cannot get the bridge to intonate, then you might need to resort to buying a new bridge that has a greater intonation range. If all the saddles are generally leaning towards the tailpiece end of their range, then that strongly indicates that the bridge was installed by Gibson a bit too far forwards at the factory. Which sucks.

But you can get replacement Nashville-style bridges with a longer intonation range than the stock ABR-1 that'll fit Gibson posts.

What type of bridge is currently on the guitar? Can you send pics? IIRC it's easy to tell Nashville from ABR-1 because the Nashville style don't have a retainer wire.


I actually have an Epiphone, so would those bridges still fit?

Here's an image of the stock bridge:

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#10176
Quote by Horsedick.MPEG
I actually have an Epiphone, so would those bridges still fit?

Here's an image of the stock bridge:

It's actually a good thing it's an Epiphone. I think all modern Gibsons use the Nashville style bridge stock, so if you were to still have intonation problems on a guitar with that kind of bridge, finding one with an even longer intonation range will cause a headache.

All Epiphones use the ABR-1 style bridge w/ the retainer wire. So a replacement Nashville-style bridge may very well fix your problem.

What you need to bear in mind is that while the location of the studs between the Gibson and Epiphone bridges look very similar, they are not exactly the same. The reason being that Gibson, being 'Murica fuck yeah', use imperial measurements. Epiphones use metric. Also the studs on the Gibson style TOM bridges use smaller diameter posts without a slot cut into them like the Epiphones have. So if you want to buy a new bridge, be sure to search for Nashville bridges that'll specifically fit Epiphone guitars. There's lots of companies that'll sell you such a thing quite cheaply if you shop around.

I hope this helps.
Quote by Axelfox
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#10177
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
It's actually a good thing it's an Epiphone. I think all modern Gibsons use the Nashville style bridge stock, so if you were to still have intonation problems on a guitar with that kind of bridge, finding one with an even longer intonation range will cause a headache.

All Epiphones use the ABR-1 style bridge w/ the retainer wire. So a replacement Nashville-style bridge may very well fix your problem.

What you need to bear in mind is that while the location of the studs between the Gibson and Epiphone bridges look very similar, they are not exactly the same. The reason being that Gibson, being 'Murica fuck yeah', use imperial measurements. Epiphones use metric. Also the studs on the Gibson style TOM bridges use smaller diameter posts without a slot cut into them like the Epiphones have. So if you want to buy a new bridge, be sure to search for Nashville bridges that'll specifically fit Epiphone guitars. There's lots of companies that'll sell you such a thing quite cheaply if you shop around.

I hope this helps.


Thanks, I ordered a Gohtoh bridge after seeing them being popular for replacing stock Epi bridges.

Also in regards to the US using the Imperial System, after living in the U.K. for awhile, I do find it funny seeing Brits complain about Murica using it. Even though you guys are kind of wishy washy with it. I thought it was weird still seeing miles for roads, and truck heights being measured in inches/feet. Oh and beer still being in pints.

Still <3 you Mac
2013 #5 Uger
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Last edited by Horsedick.MPEG at Nov 7, 2016,
#10178
Quote by Horsedick.MPEG
Thanks, I ordered a Gohtoh bridge after seeing them being popular for replacing stock Epi bridges.

Also in regards to criticizing the US using the Imperial System, after living in the U.K. for awhile, I do find it funny seeing Brits complain about Murica using it. Even though you guys are kind of wishy washy with it. I thought it was weird still seeing miles for roads, and truck heights being measured in inches/feet. Oh and beer still being in pints.

Still <3 you Mac

Yeah the UK only started using the metric system as the standard by the mid-60's. So there still exist some relics of the imperial system around in everyday life. They should really be abolished.

Good to know you bought a replacement. The Gotoh bridges are nice indeed. Though it might come supplied unslotted so you may need to cut the slots yourself.
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#10179
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Yeah the UK only started using the metric system as the standard by the mid-60's. So there still exist some relics of the imperial system around in everyday life. They should really be abolished.

Good to know you bought a replacement. The Gotoh bridges are nice indeed. Though it might come supplied unslotted so you may need to cut the slots yourself.


Well I'll keep that in mind for the slots.
2013 #5 Uger
2012 #7 Uger

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#10181
What would you say is the most common problem? I never seem to get it quite right...
#10184
Twisted my headphone jack, and now my ground wire is loose. Don't have a solder set nor do I have money to obtain one. Will duct tape suffice?
#10185
Quote by seoplednakirf
Twisted my headphone jack, and now my ground wire is loose. Don't have a solder set nor do I have money to obtain one. Will duct tape suffice?

Far from ideal but in a pinch, yes

Get a soldering iron as soon as you can. Duct tape is far from a permanent solution
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#10186
Bought a new Ibanez UV70p, made in Indonesia. The input jack seems to have a problem because the cable either has to sit at a certain angle for the signal to flow. Either that or I plug it in and it just doesn't work, and have to plug the cable back in a few times. It's very temperamental and obviously it makes the guitar impossible to play when standing up. At first I thought it was that it was loose inside and would simply have to be bent slightly but I opened up the cavity and I have never seen this kind of input before. Has anyone else had this problem, or know what the cause and solution might be? Please see Imgur link below for photo of the input.

http://imgur.com/j9mJ2Bd
Last edited by kennedygary93 at Dec 31, 2016,
#10188
If this was already answered here, I apologize. But I have a basic Squire Strat with a stock tremolo bridge. I broke my high string and had to take off the saddle to get the piece of string unstuck out of the body. I'm trying to put the saddle back into place, but I'm stripping the head of the bolt and becoming increasingly frustrated. I don't have any replacement bolts and am at a loss of what to do at this point. I don't want to keep stripping the head, nor do I want the saddle to remain at a spot where it screws up my intonation. I feel lightweight stupid because I have a feeling the answer is going to be something obvious. Can anyone help?
Thank you #21! Tim Duncan!!!
#10189
Hello,

I have recently purchased my first electric guitar (Ibanez RG6005). Have a few questions on the set up.

1. Mainly interested in playing System of a Down right now so I am tuned down a bit. I noticed the action was extremely high. I have been playing with adjusting the saddles (fixed bridge so all individual to strings), and was wondering if there is a method to get them even, or is it sort of an eyeball thing. I did leave a bit more room on the high E as I understand this string will vibrate more since its tuned to C. I am getting fret buzz on the low E, first fret for sure (slight buzz almost until 6th fret). I did capo the first fret, and hold the fret closest to where neck is bolted, and when I push a thinner pick .63mm under it pushes up the string. Should it go under flush? I am wondering if I need to adjust the truss, or do something with the nut (feel like I can see a heavy bow, but cant really trust my eyes).

2. Is there a guideline for adjusting the pickups?

3. Does any tuner work for doing the intonation? I gather this should be done after adjusting the saddles.

Thanks guys in advance.
#10190
Quote by alexanderjarvis
Hello,

I have recently purchased my first electric guitar (Ibanez RG6005). Have a few questions on the set up.

1. Mainly interested in playing System of a Down right now so I am tuned down a bit. I noticed the action was extremely high. I have been playing with adjusting the saddles (fixed bridge so all individual to strings), and was wondering if there is a method to get them even, or is it sort of an eyeball thing. I did leave a bit more room on the high E as I understand this string will vibrate more since its tuned to C. I am getting fret buzz on the low E, first fret for sure (slight buzz almost until 6th fret). I did capo the first fret, and hold the fret closest to where neck is bolted, and when I push a thinner pick .63mm under it pushes up the string. Should it go under flush? I am wondering if I need to adjust the truss, or do something with the nut (feel like I can see a heavy bow, but cant really trust my eyes).

My article on the front page of the site covers adjusting the truss rod and approximate measurements you should be looking for.

https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/lessons/the_guide_to/truss_rod_tips.html

I would suggest buying a set of feeler gauges to measure neck relief.
2. Is there a guideline for adjusting the pickups?

Not really. Some people measure stuff like that, but I trust my ears.
3. Does any tuner work for doing the intonation? I gather this should be done after adjusting the saddles.

Should do if it's accurate.
Quote by Axelfox
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#10191
T00DEEPBLUE
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
My article on the front page of the site covers adjusting the truss rod and approximate measurements you should be looking for.

https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/lessons/the_guide_to/truss_rod_tips.html

I would suggest buying a set of feeler gauges to measure neck relief.

Not really. Some people measure stuff like that, but I trust my ears.

Should do if it's accurate.


Ok thanks. So if I understand. When I use the feeler, it should clear without having to push the string up?
#10192
Quote by alexanderjarvis
T00DEEPBLUE

Ok thanks. So if I understand. When I use the feeler, it should clear without having to push the string up?

Yes. The gap is determined by the thickest feeler gauge you can possibly slip between the fret and the string without disturbing it.
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#10193
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Yes. The gap is determined by the thickest feeler gauge you can possibly slip between the fret and the string without disturbing it.


Soo everything seems good as far as relief / action. I feel the action is still a bit high, but not unbearable, yet my 6th / 5th string have some buzz in certain places. I got the guitar "new" on clearance, and it appears some of the saddle adjustment screws are possibly rusted in spots. So I will try to change the strings, but how hard is it to replace the saddle if needed (or possibly just replace those screws)?
#10194
Quote by alexanderjarvis
Soo everything seems good as far as relief / action. I feel the action is still a bit high, but not unbearable, yet my 6th / 5th string have some buzz in certain places. I got the guitar "new" on clearance, and it appears some of the saddle adjustment screws are possibly rusted in spots. So I will try to change the strings, but how hard is it to replace the saddle if needed (or possibly just replace those screws)?

The fact that it's a bit rusty is not going to affect anything.

Where in these certain places are you getting fret buzz? If the buzzing is isolated to certain frets but not the neighboring ones, that indicates a high fret that needs leveling.
Quote by Axelfox
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#10195
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
The fact that it's a bit rusty is not going to affect anything.

Where in these certain places are you getting fret buzz? If the buzzing is isolated to certain frets but not the neighboring ones, that indicates a high fret that needs leveling.


Yup, 6th string 1st fret, and then around 5th and 6th fret. 5th string is around 5th and 6th fret as well.
#10196
It's possible that the 7th fret is high. Does the 7th fret not buzz at all? If it doesn't, then you've almost certainly have a high fret.

Does the 2nd fret of the low E string not buzz either?
Quote by Axelfox
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#10197
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
It's possible that the 7th fret is high. Does the 7th fret not buzz at all? If it doesn't, then you've almost certainly have a high fret.

Does the 2nd fret of the low E string not buzz either?


5th string 6th fret has buzz, 6th string does have buzz on 7th and a little on the 8th as well. Also I noticed if the bottom strap button is bumped, I believe I can hear the truss rod make a noise in the neck, is this normal?
Last edited by alexanderjarvis at Jan 12, 2017,
#10198
Quote by alexanderjarvis
5th string 6th fret has buzz, 6th string does have buzz on 7th and a little on the 8th as well. Also I noticed if the bottom strap button is bumped, I believe I can hear the truss rod make a noise in the neck, is this normal?

If the fret buzz gradually disappears as you go up the neck then that indicates that the neck might still not have enough relief.

The thing about the truss rod might indicate that the truss rod is loose and rattling around inside the neck. By itself it won't do anything adverse but if the truss rod in the neck is not a 2-way, slack and you're still getting fret buzz then it may be cause for some concern. Keep loosening the truss rod and see if it helps force the neck into relief. The truss rod might also stop rattling as you do so.
Quote by Axelfox
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#10199
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
If the fret buzz gradually disappears as you go up the neck then that indicates that the neck might still not have enough relief.

The thing about the truss rod might indicate that the truss rod is loose and rattling around inside the neck. By itself it won't do anything adverse but if the truss rod in the neck is not a 2-way, slack and you're still getting fret buzz then it may be cause for some concern. Keep loosening the truss rod and see if it helps force the neck into relief. The truss rod might also stop rattling as you do so.


I think you may be correct. Loosened the truss rod another quarter turn, and buzz seems to be better. Definitely not hearing any noise if I bump the bottom. Will wait a bit and measure again. Might need another quarter turn.