#1
So I recently returned my old yamaha that was having buzzing issues and got this brand new one, I noticed there are some very thin hairline like cracks around the neck joint. I am not experienced and do not know if these are in the finish of the guitar or something seriously I spoke to the owner and he said its totally cosmetic and happens on all guitars at some point and I can return it if I want to. Thing is I dont want to return it because everything else on this guitar is superb if these do not affect life and durability of the guitar I am fine with it. Need your guidance, uploading the pics thanks.
Last edited by _iOS at Jun 14, 2017,
#3
It is normal.  Sometimes it's a sign of a failing neck join but usually it is purely cosmetic.  The finish cracks there because the string tension pulls the neck forward.  If the finish is thin, which is a good thing on acoustics, then it'll crack a little at the neck joint even when the neck joint is strong.  If the action is good then I wouldn't worry about it.
Not taking any online orders.
#4
_iOS Not only is there stress at that neck joint, but also a lot of wood grain running in different directions. Due to different rates of expansion and contractions, the finish can also crack because of it. The finish can also shrink a bit over the years. Unless you start to see daylight between the neck and the body, I would just consider it a "battle scar", and not worry about it.

Like they say on, "Games of Thrones", "all guitars cannot remain new forever". (Or maybe I made that up, who knows).
#5
CorduroyEW
Quote by CorduroyEW
It is normal.  Sometimes it's a sign of a failing neck join but usually it is purely cosmetic.  The finish cracks there because the string tension pulls the neck forward.  If the finish is thin, which is a good thing on acoustics, then it'll crack a little at the neck joint even when the neck joint is strong.  If the action is good then I wouldn't worry about it.


The Action is 3mm on Low E and 2mm on High E, when I bought my previous Same model guitar the action was 2.8 mm on low E and 2 mm on high E. This one is appox 0.2 mm higher on low E....could it be because of manufacturing tolerance I dont think 0.2 or 0.3 mm is much of a big difference if the neck really was falling apart action would be off by much higher margin. What do you think?
#6
_iOS That small of a difference is probably just manufacturing tolerance but get that much variance by simply changing string brands.  I don't think you have anything to worry about.
Not taking any online orders.
#7
CorduroyEW     Captaincranky 

You guys would buy a new guitar that looked like that? I'm glad it's not my money you're spending.

Those action height differences are just manufacturing tolerances, and Martin even use different height bridges and saddles to compensate for the fairly big differences in neck angle that they get. FWIW, I would be lowering the saddle a tiny bit on those measurements.
#8
Quote by Tony Done
CorduroyEW     Captaincranky 

You guys would buy a new guitar that looked like that? I'm glad it's not my money you're spending.

Those action height differences are just manufacturing tolerances, and Martin even use different height bridges and saddles to compensate for the fairly big differences in neck angle that they get. FWIW, I would be lowering the saddle a tiny bit on those measurements.


Sir this is exactly the issue, I had a previous Same model guitar low E was 2.8 mm and high E was 2 mm at 12 th fret. I decided to lower it to 2.5 so I bought a new bone saddle and filed it down to same specs as my defaut one. After installing the new saddle and retuning strings the action was same appx 3 on low E and 2 on high e but the A string had started buzzing when fretted on 3--7th fret and it would buzz with moderate picking nothing too hard but if I played gently it was fine but this isnt my playing style anyway so the buzz made me put the old saddle back here is the strange part the A string kept on buzzing even with the stock saddle. So something went wrong in between removing the old one and installing new one.....at this point I had not touched anything else ( no nut or truss rod adjustment as they both seemed fine with a little concave bow) but since the guitar was buzzing I tried to increase relief...even after increasing relief when my Action was 3.5 On low E the buzzing improved but did not go away.....I checked 4 everything else loose tuners, fret level, any loose parts, tried another saddle, changed strings but nothing helped. I live in Lahore, Pakistan and there are No luthiers available here, not one. Guitar shops here do not carry branded guitars and usually have cheaper chinese made guitars which have all sort of issues. The guy I bought my guitar from does not have a shop and he works from home and he is the only person in the whole city who is selling original Yamahas. this specific model F310 is a cheap entry level acoustic but still I had to pay premium on its original price, i bought this one for $200 just guitar no bags no nothing. I know the action is high and I want to lower it but as per my previous experiment (which I did to the best of my abilities after reading and watching online tutorials) I am scared to make any adjustments. Worst thing about this is that I am slowly drifting away from music, lack of proper instruments, technical support and guidance has put me off. I dont know how this guy imported these guitars in the first place because as per Pakistans custom laws the customs duty and taxes on importing musical instruments is very high, A guitar which costs around $180 will end up costing around $550 when imported through proper channel, the guys who do have decent guitars here bought them through a femily member living abroad, and they usually hand carry the instrument so no taxes are applied...Unfortunately I do not have anyone living overseas.
#9
last year I bought a Fender CD60 semi acoustic for $400 and returned it after finding out it was a clone. Almost had a fight with the shopkeeper who refused to take it back and only returned it after I told him I would be taking the matter to local consumer court after which the moron deducted $30 as restocking fee and returned it. Later on he admitted the guitar is an "A+ Quality copy which was made in china".....
#10
The 310 is a good guitar in my experience, but your prices are fairly high. Australia, where I live, is also expensive, but at least we have good technical support for guitarists.

The buzzing on the A string may be the nut slot, or a high fret at the low end of the neck. Does it only buzz on the open string?

I can sympathise with your supply and repair problems, but at least you have the internet these days. - Better than nothing at all.
#11
Quote by Tony Done
The 310 is a good guitar in my experience, but your prices are fairly high. Australia, where I live, is also expensive, but at least we have good technical support for guitarists.

The buzzing on the A string may be the nut slot, or a high fret at the low end of the neck. Does it only buzz on the open string?

I can sympathise with your supply and repair problems, but at least you have the internet these days. - Better than nothing at all.


No it only buzzed while fretted bw 3rd--7th fret, no buzzing when played open but just for the sake of it I increases height at nut and saddle using shims, improved the buzzing but did not fix it completely, that too when my action was above 4mm so I removed those shims.
#12
Quote by Tony Done
...[ ]....You guys would buy a new guitar that looked like that? I'm glad it's not my money you're spending. ...[ ]....
Actually no, I wouldn't. For whatever reason, I thought the one with the cracked finish was a resurrected old instrument. Also, I hadn't combined the issue of the cracking and the action height as being on the same guitar.. I've obviously been here too long.

With those things said, I'm unwilling to accept full responsibility for the rather obvious complete lapse of reading comprehension. First, being a Windows user for life, (at least thus far), anyone who takes the name of Apple's mobile phone operating system as a screen alias, is bound to garner a bit of disdain from me.

Compounding the matter severely, is Mr. iOS complete disdain for the paragraph as a venerated cornerstone of the English language! To wit:
Quote by _iOS
Sir this is exactly the issue, I had a previous Same model guitar low E was 2.8 mm and high E was 2 mm at 12 th fret. I decided to lower it to 2.5 so I bought a new bone saddle and filed it down to same specs as my defaut one. After installing the new saddle and retuning strings the action was same appx 3 on low E and 2 on high e but the A string had started buzzing when fretted on 3--7th fret and it would buzz with moderate picking nothing too hard but if I played gently it was fine but this isnt my playing style anyway so the buzz made me put the old saddle back here is the strange part the A string kept on buzzing even with the stock saddle. So something went wrong in between removing the old one and installing new one.....at this point I had not touched anything else ( no nut or truss rod adjustment as they both seemed fine with a little concave bow) but since the guitar was buzzing I tried to increase relief...even after increasing relief when my Action was 3.5 On low E the buzzing improved but did not go away.....I checked 4 everything else loose tuners, fret level, any loose parts, tried another saddle, changed strings but nothing helped. I live in Lahore, Pakistan and there are No luthiers available here, not one. Guitar shops here do not carry branded guitars and usually have cheaper chinese made guitars which have all sort of issues. The guy I bought my guitar from does not have a shop and he works from home and he is the only person in the whole city who is selling original Yamahas. this specific model F310 is a cheap entry level acoustic but still I had to pay premium on its original price, i bought this one for $200 just guitar no bags no nothing. I know the action is high and I want to lower it but as per my previous experiment (which I did to the best of my abilities after reading and watching online tutorials) I am scared to make any adjustments. Worst thing about this is that I am slowly drifting away from music, lack of proper instruments, technical support and guidance has put me off. I dont know how this guy imported these guitars in the first place because as per Pakistans custom laws the customs duty and taxes on importing musical instruments is very high, A guitar which costs around $180 will end up costing around $550 when imported through proper channel, the guys who do have decent guitars here bought them through a femily member living abroad, and they usually hand carry the instrument so no taxes are applied...Unfortunately I do not have anyone living overseas.
#13
okay now thats confusing, if these are just stress marks in the finish then they could happen on a new guitar aswell, no? Is there a way to check if its a serious issue ? returning is not an option now because the guitar already has few nicks and dents here n there.
#14
just chipping in in case this was overlooked and turned out to be the actual reason (I'm by no means a guitar expert nor a luthiering spazstick, but)

To my untrained slightly sleepy eyes, it looks like the neck/heel has been rejoined to the body? Almost as if the guitar is a refurbished one, that was sent for a neck reset? Correct me if I'm wrong (probably), but I doubt a new guitar would have that mess around the heel, let alone a crack even..?
#15
AORNova 

It just looks like ordinary cracking of the very hard finish to me, maybe the neck has had a knock at some time. Also those necks are generally difficult to reset, if they can be done at all, so there is the question of cost-effectiveness. Neck resettability is my major hobby horse is acoustic guitars, which is why I am a fan of Taylor.
#16
_iOS  As you are no doubt aware this is a mechanical problem. It was ok before so what changed? Two heads are better than one so I would advise you to get hold of a mechanically minded friend and let them investigate the problem. Sometimes one can be too close to a problem and miss the obvious.