#1
Hi all. First post in gb&c so please bear with me, I'm a gg&a noob.

So my schecter hellraiser came from the store as a floor model. Now of course some idiot had to go and put on some ernie ball not even slinkies on it.

Now personally I like medium strings at around 10, I usually play in drop D and I find that the 10's are a nice balance between usability and variety.

The problem is that now that those 52's are out of there, a huge nut slot remains. Now no joke, this thing like EATS my medium strings. Lots of fret buzz down the entire low e string. Even at higher than average action its still a bitch and really hard to clamp down on. Not only that but it throws the intonation off, as well as the action of the rest of the strings

So now my dilema is, would a nut replacement work good here? And if so, should I invest in one of the fender metal roller nuts?

Also, could you point me to a tutorial?
Pain is an illusion.
Schecter Hellraiser C-1 w/ Seymour Duncan JB/Jazz Combo
Pitchblack | Bad Horsie 2 | DS-1 | BF-2 | ISP Decimator | DD6
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#2
Replace the nut.

Here is your tutorial:

Score where the nut meets all surfaces. Then, using a mallet and block which parallel to and resting on the fretboard, gently tap the nut away.

Make sure the action will be good with the new nut by doing a dry fitting. If it needs to be filed, do so, if it needs to be shimmed, do so.

Once everything is cricket use a tiny, tiny dab of super glue (I can not stress the lack of volume of glue to use here) to secure it in place.

Restring and you are good to go.

Bienvenu a le GB&C.
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Last edited by Øttər at Nov 18, 2008,
#3
Elmers wood glue is better for that. If you get too much super glue, the next poor bastard who works on it will probably bust the nut (no pun intended) trying to tap it out (no pun intended).

Wood glue will make it easier to remove the nut without breaking it, since it isn't as strong as super glue. You only need enough to hold the nut in place.

Heck, you really don't even need to glue it if you don't think you'll lose it during periods of stringless-ness.
#4
^ Ah yeah. D'oh, regular glue is better.

I just said super glue because it worked for me.

Anyway, do what Jim says.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#6
Is it worth it to get the fender nut? I do a lot of tuning changing.
Pain is an illusion.
Schecter Hellraiser C-1 w/ Seymour Duncan JB/Jazz Combo
Pitchblack | Bad Horsie 2 | DS-1 | BF-2 | ISP Decimator | DD6
YouTube Channel
#7
Fender nut? Probably not a good idea. You want to get a nut that has the extra same width as yours, and preferably the same string spacing.

And for the record, I use super glue, but I only place a drop in there. And it's not a pain in the ass at all to remove. Small amounts of super glue aren't THAT strong.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/String_nuts/Graph_Tech_Nuts.html
1866 should be right for your guitar. I believe that your Schecter has a nut width of 1-11/16". Double check.
#8
What does tuning changing have to do with it? You could get a Tusq or Graphtech nut. The are great for tuning stability if your guitar has a trem (idr if c-1s have trems. cbf to look). Otherwise any ol' plastic nut will do.
#11
True. But I'd like to stick with a graphite nut because A) Its black and I'd like it to be visually the same and B) Because I like the sound and I'd like it to be similar.
Pain is an illusion.
Schecter Hellraiser C-1 w/ Seymour Duncan JB/Jazz Combo
Pitchblack | Bad Horsie 2 | DS-1 | BF-2 | ISP Decimator | DD6
YouTube Channel