#1
Hey folks, I'm about to glue down my first ever maple top tomorrow; it's about 5/8" thick, has some cool curly figuring, and it's going onto an ash body. I'm nervous about setting it up squarely and such, and was wondering if it was acceptable to thin the Titebond Original with a touch of water before I got started to give me extra working time to fudge around with. I've glued stuff down with Titebond before, although nothing this big, and working time was certainly not an issue, but....it's a pretty cool top and the ash is a solid piece from a strat-style body that is over 27 years old, so I really don't wanna screw it up.

Thoughts? Is glue thinning doable, or will I have plenty of time for getting things "just so" before it starts getting too tacky without the thinning? Obviously, I've never heard of anyone doing such a thing as thinning out Titebond, but then again I've never seen someone on here gluing figured maple tops to 27 year old pieces of ash that didn't already have some solid experience under their belts either .

As for those of you wanting pics and all that garbage, I'll be posting a separate thread dedicated to the build over the weekend once the project actually has some legs to run with. So, pics and stories about how I got my paws on a 27 year old hunk of ash to work with are yet to come.
Last edited by lumberjack at Nov 20, 2008,
#3
Ya, even as the idea entered my mind I thought it might be one of my dumbest, but the idea of more time to mess with getting things square appealed to the illogical side of my luthier-ignorant mind...
#5
you might be able to make some kind of jig to line up the two pieces if youre feeling labor intensive. i wouldnt mess with the glue though. oh yeah, dont use too much glue. keep in mind that even as youre keeping the previous statement in mind you will still probably be using too much glue unless you have used too much glue many times before.
Last edited by MichaelOfCanton at Nov 20, 2008,
#6
dry clamp it first.

tap some small nails in through the cap in a place where they wont leave a mark when you are finished (corners or cavities) and slightly into the body wood, not enough to fix but enough to be able to drop into the hole again.

de clamp, add the wood glue and then it should just drop into the place where you put the nails...
Thank you please.
#8
^ no offence to him but he clearly isnt an expert on wood glue.

Any way TS as with any thread I recommend research before ever making a thread,

lifted straight of the Titebond website...

Can Titebond Wood Glues be thinned?
Most of our wood glues can be thinned with water up to 5% by weight or by volume. Adding more than 5% water to our glues will decrease the bond strength.


5% is probably not going to give you a lot more working top ontop of about the 15 mins you get, but if you dry run it a few times you shouldn't have a problem with getting it perfect in time.




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#9
Why not try another type of glue such as glue developed specifically for veneers. They might have a longer open time.

Also, I think TitebondIII has a longer open time.
#10
Quote by Absent Mind
^ no offence to him but he clearly isnt an expert on wood glue.

Any way TS as with any thread I recommend research before ever making a thread,

lifted straight of the Titebond website...


5% is probably not going to give you a lot more working top ontop of about the 15 mins you get, but if you dry run it a few times you shouldn't have a problem with getting it perfect in time.



Figures. I did dry clamp it a few times, and that made me feel alot more confident, so I'll just glue it up and hope for the best. Results to be posted in a build thread a little later on.
#11
5% is nothing, and wont do you any justice for extra time, just be the good luthier and do it right, and no im not an expert on glue, im not a scientist, i am however an expert on using it, ive done stupid things with it and i know exactly what it does and under what conditions.