#1
I don't know what the problem is.
I'm tuning a 1989 BC Rich Platinum NJ and every time I make it to the high E, the rest f the strings are out of tune and the bridge is sticking it's ass in the air like a Jersey hooker.
I didn't have this problem until a tech tightened the two screws on the back that hold the springs to the body, which I loosened back, and the truss rod was adjusted about one turn tighter to set the strings at the right level.
It plays fine, but it wont stay in tune.






Who knows how these bridges work and what I need to do before I pop more strings and possibly a random neighbor?
Last edited by vanitybinge at Nov 20, 2008,
#2
Quote by vanitybinge
I don't know what the problem is.
I'm tuning a 1989 BC Rich Platinum NJ and every time I make it to the high E, the rest f the strings are out of tune and the bridge is sticking it's ass in the air like a Jersey hooker.
I didn't have this problem until a tech tightened the two screws on the back that hold the springs to the body, which I loosened back, and the truss rod was adjusted about one turn tighter to set the strings at the right level.
It plays fine, but it wont stay in tune.


There's the problem. Shouldn't have done that. Why on earth would you undo what a professional tech did?
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#3
About the tuning, you're probably tuning it wrong (one string at a time?) you need to tune the E, then the A, then the E again, then the D, then the E and A again, etc, it's tedious, but it works.
However if you put that bridge flush with the body, the tuning problem will most likely go away
#4
Well, those trems are hard to tune to begin with. I also agree you have to have patience. A short cut is to tune it 1st 3rd 4th 2nd 5th 6th, which keeps it fairly balanced, but you still need to go back and check the previous strings after each string. Once you do that, see what angle the bridge is at, and tighten the screws int eh back a bit, retune, and repeat until it is flush. I also suggest just blocking that trem up to dive only.
#5
you loosened the screws way too much, theres a reason he put them where they where. Theyre the ANCHORS, and their purpose is to prevent the bridge from doing exactly what it does now.

Long story short, why did u undo wtf he did?
#6
Quote by kaosfire
you loosened the screws way too much, theres a reason he put them where they where. Theyre the ANCHORS, and their purpose is to prevent the bridge from doing exactly what it does now.

Long story short, why did u undo wtf he did?



It never had this problem before the adjustment, so I thought that was the problem.

I'll compile the advice you all have given me so far, and see if it works.

if anyone wants to reach me on instant messenger and help, vanitybinge on yahoo/aim.

the E, then the A, then the D, then the E again, I was right this is a bitch.
#8
If it were me I'd take away the float on it totally and leave it to only be able to scoop down, would save you on tuning a lot. You'd only have to straight up tune it.
#9
you guys are awesome. I got it fixed now.

I don't know how to take away the float?

Does anyone know where I can get parts for this? I'm missing the middle screw for the nut and I need to replace one of the fine tuners.

Also, is this kind of bridge worth keeping? I play melodic/death metal, shred, you get the idea. This guitar is meant to be my screamer. I'm thinking of replacing the pickups as well and modding the LPF for more dynamic control.
Last edited by vanitybinge at Nov 20, 2008,
#10
Quote by vanitybinge
It never had this problem before the adjustment, so I thought that was the problem.

I'll compile the advice you all have given me so far, and see if it works.

if anyone wants to reach me on instant messenger and help, vanitybinge on yahoo/aim.

the E, then the A, then the D, then the E again, I was right this is a bitch.

wait?

it was this way before you loosened them??
#11
Quote by Zaphod_Beeblebr
There's the problem. Shouldn't have done that. Why on earth would you undo what a professional tech did?


+1

Those screws were tightened for a reason, which I think you've managed to point out in this topic.

Take it back to the guy, get it re-set up and DON'T MESS WITH IT THIS TIME.
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Last edited by necrosis1193 at Nov 20, 2008,
#12
The locking nut pad will be replaced really easy.
However the fine tuner may be a bit harder to locate, though by the looks of that routing you'd probably be able to stick an OFR or decent LFR there if you needed a change of trem, though you'd have very limited/no pull up.
#13
the springs are there to counter the string tenson that is put on the bridge.
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