#1
Hello everyone. Let me just cut to the chase and say that the build is at the very early stages, so I will update the thread as it goes along. Also, I would upload pics of the supplies tonight to give you guys something to think about.

Anyway, here is my general build in a nutshell.

-Dean ML shape
-Holoflash finish
-Floyd rose bridge
-black hardware
-body mounted Dimarzio pickups

Item list
-Body (done)
-Neck (done)
-Dimarzio 36th anniversary PAF for neck (done)
-Dimarzio Air Zone for bridge (done)
-Adhesive backed holofoil (done)
-acetone (coming tomorrow)
-black waterbased paint (done)
-Clearcoat (done)
-Bridge and locking nut
-Tuners (christmas)
-Black pickup covers
-3 500k Potentiometers (christmas)
-3 way switch (ditto)
-0.047 Capaciter (ditto ditto)
-input jack (done)
-mounting ring for input jack (christmas)
-wiring

Ok, now I have a few issues that I need input on. The neck is that from an Ibanez RX170, which was the reason for this build. The neck has a few jagged fret edges, the wood block in the neckpocket that holds in the trussrod looks badly glued in, and it came from a korean made $150 guitar, but darn it all it feels wonderful. The issue is that it does not fit in the body's neck pocket at all. The neck pocket is too small for it, the sides of the neck pocket are too close in and the front of the neck pocket is not rounded enough for the neck. After placing the neck on top of the body, it roughly looks like the screwholes for the neck and body align, but I am not sure. Should I just sand the neck pocket so it will fit, or is it the neck's fault and I should get a new one? Times are rough, money is short, and that would GREATLY lengthen my build time, though. Not to mention that I already like the neck to begin with.

Also, for the life of me I can't find a black dean style input jack mounting ring. Dean has ignored all of my emails concerning buying one off of them.
-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
Last edited by kranoscorp at Dec 18, 2008,
#2
Quote by Deliriumbassist
Antisocial Behaviour Order. A chav's equivalent of GCSEs.
#3
Quote by rancidryan

:O Amazing. That is not quite what it is like (it is metal and does not have the indentation), but at that price I am not arguing.

Also quite a reliever on the neck part. I'll try to sand it tonight, but I will be busy tomorrow so I cannot keep going tomorrow. I'll keep you guys updated though.
-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
Last edited by kranoscorp at Dec 9, 2008,
#5
Ok, after a bit of sanding, the neck fit snugly. So it fits after the several coats of laquer, I'll tape off the neck pocket and leave it raw. It will give more sustain that way and make the guitar breath better anyway.
-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
#8
Quote by Pikka Bird
^That's good news. Who made the body? And... pictures, perhaps?

It is a US made alder body by KNE guitars. I bought it off Ebay.

PICS!!!






Ok. How do I retrofit a locking nut onto a neck with a normal nut? Is there a tutorial somewhere on how to do so?

Should I scallop the fretboard?
-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
Last edited by kranoscorp at Dec 10, 2008,
#9
Applied the holofoil.

-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
#10
I am having a small problem with the holofoil. There is a small airpocket to the right of the trem hole (you can see it in the picture) which is due to the foil not spreading all the way. Is there any way I can get it to go away? I have tried pressing it out, but that was only temporary. If worse comes to worse, I'll press it out and then quickly apply clearcoat, but I don't think it will hold.

I am getting the clearcoat and paint today, so I will do that part today.


unanswered questions

How do I retrofit a locking nut onto a neck with a normal nut? Is there a tutorial somewhere on how to do so?

Should I scallop the fretboard?
-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
#11
Quote by kranoscorp
I am having a small problem with the holofoil. There is a small airpocket to the right of the trem hole (you can see it in the picture) which is due to the foil not spreading all the way. Is there any way I can get it to go away? I have tried pressing it out, but that was only temporary. If worse comes to worse, I'll press it out and then quickly apply clearcoat, but I don't think it will hold.

Should I scallop the fretboard?


I wouldnt do that. I would doubt that work. I work with vinyl signs and adhesive **** like that, and honestly i think it would be better worth your time to do it over again. It just wont look the same. No matter what you do that big ass air bubble wont get fully out. Even if u press the bubble out the side, from the looks of it, you would still have a crease in the foil. If you have enough foil, just do it over IMO.

I would scallop the frets, but i personally dont know how to do it and wouldnt trust myself to not **** my neck up, but go ahead man thats what makes assembling and building axes awesome.

also i just bought one of these bodys too the other day, still waiting for it. Maybe ill post some of my pics for my build in here too. Cant wait for the SD Full Shred Neck, and SD Invader Bridge to get wired up in that thing. Its gonna be sweet. Happy builing

#12
What is the film made of? You may be able to use a heat gun, and work it with a credit card to get the bubble out. If its not metal that is.
#13
Quote by kranoscorp
I am having a small problem with the holofoil. There is a small airpocket to the right of the trem hole (you can see it in the picture) which is due to the foil not spreading all the way. Is there any way I can get it to go away? I have tried pressing it out, but that was only temporary. If worse comes to worse, I'll press it out and then quickly apply clearcoat, but I don't think it will hold.

I am getting the clearcoat and paint today, so I will do that part today.


unanswered questions

How do I retrofit a locking nut onto a neck with a normal nut? Is there a tutorial somewhere on how to do so?

Should I scallop the fretboard?

could you take a pin to the bubble, squeeze out the air, and then clear coat over the pin prick hole to prevent if all from coming apart.

i would be tempted to try that because a small enough hole would be incredibly hard to see on that bizarre foil. it might even overlap slightly over the hole because you might have extra foil without the bubble.

if you dont have enough foil to re-wrap it, or you dont want to spend the time. it might be worth trying that?
#14
a couple pinholes should get rid of the bubble...

as for scalloping, If you've never played a scalloped fingerboard, I wouldn't do it. It's a very unique feeling, and takes a lot of adjustment in playing style and technique.
------

Shwiggity.
#15
Quote by xXMetal-HeadXx
I wouldnt do that. I would doubt that work. I work with vinyl signs and adhesive **** like that, and honestly i think it would be better worth your time to do it over again. It just wont look the same. No matter what you do that big ass air bubble wont get fully out. Even if u press the bubble out the side, from the looks of it, you would still have a crease in the foil. If you have enough foil, just do it over IMO.

Quote by XxAltecxX
What is the film made of? You may be able to use a heat gun, and work it with a credit card to get the bubble out. If its not metal that is.

Quote by TheBuddhistPalm
could you take a pin to the bubble, squeeze out the air, and then clear coat over the pin prick hole to prevent if all from coming apart.

i would be tempted to try that because a small enough hole would be incredibly hard to see on that bizarre foil. it might even overlap slightly over the hole because you might have extra foil without the bubble.

if you dont have enough foil to re-wrap it, or you dont want to spend the time. it might be worth trying that?

Quote by deftonesordie
a couple pinholes should get rid of the bubble...

The film looks to be adhesive-backed foil, but I am unsure of the material. I do NOT have enough to do a redo. And it is not an airbubble, it is more of a raised crease where the excess foil was shoved up. What if I cut out the crease, and put foil ontop to cover the hole.
-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
#16
well, this stuff doesn't really have a 'grain' , does it? If not, s long as you made a seamless transfer you're gonna be fine make sure you sand well while clearcoating :P
------

Shwiggity.
#17
Cutting the holes did the trick perfectly. Using a small pair of scissors used for nail clipping, I gently cut a small line in the crease. After applying force, the crease folded in on itself leaving nothing but a faint line where the cut was. Perfect.

Now, it is raining tonight, so I wont get any painting done, but I bought the paint, acetone, and clearcoat today. I should have it painted and designed tomorrow, and I will start clearcoating either tomorrow or the day after.

What should I do about a locking nut? Is it possible/better to sand away a slot for a normal locking nut, or get a behind-the-nut lock a la Kahler?
-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
Last edited by kranoscorp at Dec 11, 2008,
#18
Ok, after looking in my handy copy of "guitar player repair guide" I am going for a kahler locking nut. The floyd nut is too hard to add. I don't have a dremmel router, and I am too new to guitar building to go on drilling into necks.
-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
#19
pretty nice so far. as for the scallops you were asking about, do it! I just did it to my washburn and i love it. Are you going to get rid of the ibanez logo on the headstock?
MyGear
Schecter Hellraiser (EMG 85/81 + 18v mod)
LTD SC-207 with EMG 707
Peavey 6505 Head
Some random Peavey 4x12 slant cab
Boss Chorus Ensemble + Boss DD-3 + Dunlop Crybaby Wah + Boss NS2
#20
Quote by metalhead_c-1
pretty nice so far. as for the scallops you were asking about, do it! I just did it to my washburn and i love it. Are you going to get rid of the ibanez logo on the headstock?

Yes. I have already covered the headstock with holofoil, I will post pics of it tomorrow. Instead of holoflashing the face of the headstock, I will leave it black and use acetone to cut a dean loco through the paint.
-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
#21
Could you possibly give me the link to the ebay page where they sell the bodies? I would really like to make an ML of my own, but I haven't been able to find the bodies anywhere.

And good luck with the build ^.^
Quote by RoamingConflict
In Soviet Russia, GAS deals with you.


Quote by Lumiere Rouge
A reviewer on Amazon.com reviewing an album by the band "HiM", said that HiM is "fag metal".
Can someone explain to me what is this sub genre of fag metal? I have never heard it before.
#23
Quote by Mlrc
Could you possibly give me the link to the ebay page where they sell the bodies? I would really like to make an ML of my own, but I haven't been able to find the bodies anywhere.

And good luck with the build ^.^

http://myworld.ebay.com/guitarbodiesplus/

Thanks!


Painted and figured the paint today. All that is left is clearcoat and buff, and the body is done. Same goes for the headstock.

Quote by Duval67
Can we have some more pictures of the holofoil?
It looks sick!

ASK, AND YOU SHALL RECIEVE.



-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
#24
dude thats awesome! where did you get the holofoil? and if you do scallop the frets, then scallop frets 12-24. it works really well
#26
Quote by zakkwyldefan79
I've been think about buying a body from them too. Did it need any sanding when you got it? Do you think they're worth the price?

Very worth it. The body is medium-grade 3 peice alder, so it is priced fairly. The routes were all clean, but areas like the pickup cavities needed sanding, and the neck pocket needed to be sanded to fit my neck. Areas like the input jack had excess sawdust which had to be dislodged with a screwdriver, but everything was fairly clean.

Not up to the standards of Warmoth, but they are competitively priced and sell odd body shapes and pickup configurations.
-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
#27
Quote by kranoscorp
Very worth it. The body is medium-grade 3 peice alder, so it is priced fairly. The routes were all clean, but areas like the pickup cavities needed sanding, and the neck pocket needed to be sanded to fit my neck. Areas like the input jack had excess sawdust which had to be dislodged with a screwdriver, but everything was fairly clean.

Not up to the standards of Warmoth, but they are competitively priced and sell odd body shapes and pickup configurations.

O.K. Thanks for the info. I think I'll get one when I get the money.
#28
Quote by kranoscorp
Very worth it. The body is medium-grade 3 peice alder, so it is priced fairly. The routes were all clean, but areas like the pickup cavities needed sanding, and the neck pocket needed to be sanded to fit my neck. Areas like the input jack had excess sawdust which had to be dislodged with a screwdriver, but everything was fairly clean.

Not up to the standards of Warmoth, but they are competitively priced and sell odd body shapes and pickup configurations.


I wonder if I can get them to make a lefty?
#29
Does anybody know if the floyds they sell at guitarcenter (made by WD Music i think, around $70) work well? Money is tough, so I do not want to spend much on this guitar.
-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
#30
The final coat of clear is done (NINE COATS. Jesus it took forever). Sanding and buffing tomorrow.

I am getting all of the parts except for the bridge/nut for christmas. It will be done a week from tomorrow.
-Instruments-
Squier frankenbass
LTD Deluxe EC-1000 in Vintage Black
1960's Banjuke
#31
Cooil looking guitar, I'm making an ML shape myself out of a solid piece of Mahogany. I got some di marzio custom pickups that came out of a Parker Fly. Anyone know how to fit these to the body? There are no pickup surrounds with them or any fixing plates. Do I just drill a couple of pilot holes in my guitar body and screw the two allen screws on the top into the body?