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#162
Jim, this is what I was talking about with the improved jimmy page wiring:
http://guitarnuts2.proboards45.com/index.cgi?board=schem&action=display&thread=3159

Something else I found:
http://www.deaf-eddie.net/drawings/jp-lp.jpg

Thanks for the awsome thread!
Epiphone Valve Junior
Peavy Windsor Head
Ampeg J-12T
1959 Harmony H400A
Randall Pro-Tube 2000

Gibson Faded Special SG
Homemade superstrat with EMG 81
Peavy Tracer
Washburn XB600 6-string bass
Enough pedals to crush a rhino
#163
Quote by zakkwyldefan79
I've got a weird problem.
Brian, weird problems usually mean you have to keep track of all the details along the way to filter all the clues. i'll make notes along the way, k?


Quote by zakkwyldefan79
I've been working on my nephews Epi SG Special. The bridge pickup quit working. I heated up the solder on the connections and it started working again.
k, so it seems like all you did was to make a new connection at the solder joint. but much more happened in the process. you jostled the guitar, you disturbed the wires inside the insulation and maybe even where the enter the pickup itself. also, you heated the parts INSIDE wherever the connection is made. is this a single volume and tone? that would mean the wires from the pickup go directly to the selector switch. The Gibson versions of those switches are poor. The Epi versions are really, Really, REALLY crap.


Quote by zakkwyldefan79
The next day it was dead again.
okay, so it seems like the connection at the solder joint was likely not the problem. You probably know your way around a soldering iron, so i doubt your connection went bad in a day. One of the other suspects is the culprit. But which one... ?


Quote by zakkwyldefan79
I once again heated the solder and it worked but it was dead again the next day.
More reassurance you soldering is not the problem. Even if you were the worst at soldering, it's not likely you would cause the same joint to barely make and last a day both times.


Quote by zakkwyldefan79
So I clipped the wires cleaned the old solder off and soldered everything with fresh solder. It did the same thing again the next day.
this is a decent move. sacrifice just a bit of the wire in case there is a break just before the connection that is making intermittent contact. but now we know the break, if there is one isn't in the very end of the wires because the problem returned.


Quote by zakkwyldefan79
I decided to just put the original bridge pickup from my Explorer in it and it has worked perfectly for a week so far. Does anybody have an idea what's wrong with the original pickup?
all we know for certain is it isn't likely a soldering issue. since it continues to work, that makes it seem less likely the selector switch was the problem. but we can't rule that out entirely. maybe that was the problem, but those crappy leaves are making more reliable contact now, for some reason.

but just as likely is the wires going into the pickup and joining with the ends of the coil windings. just jostling things about might be enough to improve an intermittent contact at that joint to get it to work for a while.

at this point, i'd be looking at the resistance of the pickup. use some alligator clips to connect the ohmmeter to the ends of the wires. (that's a single conductor shielded, right?) measure the resistance. it should be about 12k, iirc. but if the connections inside the pickup are poor it could be considerably higher. and could change quite a bit as the wire is moved to different positions.


my gut says selector switch or the connections inside the pickup. the jury is still out on this one...
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#165
Ah, SYK has a great point. The part about the pup's wires...that's the case with my Hofner's bridge pup. That's why it never worked. The start lead is completely corroded and broken from the coil. That's why I was getting 300k resistance readings.

I can't believe I forgot about that.
#166
It reads around 16.5 when I move the wires it goes up and down some. I thought it could be the toggle so I swapped the positions of the pickups to the other side and bridge pickup still messed up while the neck pickup worked perfectly. I know this pickup sucks anyway but I like to know what causes this kind of stuff so maybe I can fix it if it's possible.

And one time I thought it was going to be OK but then it died on me while I was playing it.

And SYK thanks again for taking the time to type all that.
Last edited by zakkwyldefan79 at Jan 6, 2009,
#167
alright I hope this is the right place to ask this.

So, I recently got a dimarzio d sonic (bridge) and a blaze (neck) for my ibanez 7 string RG1527 and I've been having some problems with them.

I put both in the guitar and soldered them in the correct place, but the D sonic sounds pretty muddy, which is the opposite of how it should sound. The blaze sounds really off too, it has almost no power and it gives off a tremendous hum.

I did both pups in standard humbucking series wiring, so I was wondering what the heck I should do now? Could I have made an error in soldering somewhere? Could the pup be bad? (I really doubt it). Is their a different wiring I should have used? (parallel maybe?). I really have no idea what to do now and I'd greatly appreciate any help
#168
Quote by zakatak9389
alright I hope this is the right place to ask this.

So, I recently got a dimarzio d sonic (bridge) and a blaze (neck) for my ibanez 7 string RG1527 and I've been having some problems with them.

I put both in the guitar and soldered them in the correct place, but the D sonic sounds pretty muddy, which is the opposite of how it should sound. The blaze sounds really off too, it has almost no power and it gives off a tremendous hum.

I did both pups in standard humbucking series wiring, so I was wondering what the heck I should do now? Could I have made an error in soldering somewhere? Could the pup be bad? (I really doubt it). Is their a different wiring I should have used? (parallel maybe?). I really have no idea what to do now and I'd greatly appreciate any help

Can you post a diagram of how you wired them so we can see what's going on.
#169
Quote by zakkwyldefan79
It reads around 16.5 when I move the wires it goes up and down some.
I thought 16.5 seemed high so i checked my epi junior. 15.5k

and that's in the guitar with the volume at max. if you put your 16.5k in parallel with 250k, you get 15.5k just like i have. unless the resistance increases DRAMATICALLY when the wires are moved, it looks right. at least it's behaving for them moment.


Quote by zakatak9389
alright I hope this is the right place to ask this.

So, I recently got a dimarzio d sonic (bridge) and a blaze (neck) for my ibanez 7 string RG1527 and I've been having some problems with them.

I put both in the guitar and soldered them in the correct place, but the D sonic sounds pretty muddy, which is the opposite of how it should sound. The blaze sounds really off too, it has almost no power and it gives off a tremendous hum.

I did both pups in standard humbucking series wiring, so I was wondering what the heck I should do now? Could I have made an error in soldering somewhere? Could the pup be bad? (I really doubt it). Is their a different wiring I should have used? (parallel maybe?). I really have no idea what to do now and I'd greatly appreciate any help
That guitar uses a unique 5-way switch. it's made specifically for a 2 HB guitar. i DON'T know what happens inside that particular switch. on most guitars the switches are easy to know how they work. but i have no info on that one. you can't just match the wire colours from the old ibanez pickups when you replace them with dimarzio. the wire colours likely have different meanings.

for what it's worth, here is a link to the wiring for your RG1527 with stock pickups.
http://www.ibanez.com/support/wiring/2005/RG1527.gif


sorry i can't help you more.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#171
I've got an Ibanez SA160, HSS, with a 5 way selector. I'm not sure if i'm complicating matters, so here goes.

Bought three 'tonerider' pickups to swap out the stock ones.

The single coils should be a straightforward swap, the humbucker i'm not sure.

The existing Ibanez wiring shows 3 wires from the pickup, the new humbucker has 5.

2 of the new wires are already taped together - but for the 4th position on the selector (middle and front coil of the humbucker together), should i leave them taped, or do they need connecting another way.

This is the guitar as it is:



The new humbucker has:

Green
Red
Black and white taped together
Bare metal wire (ground).

If the black and white are left taped together, do i just hook red and green up to (which?) position on the pickup selector? Does the pickup selector do the grounding that gives me the 4th position?

The instructions for the humbucker state:

To match gibson humbuckers.
Red to middle lug of volume pot
Black and white soldered together
Green and ground to back of pot

To match fender/tonerider single coils:
Green to 5 way switch
Black and white soldered together
Red + ground to back of pot.

Thanks for any help!
#172
Invader Jim here's a chart I put together of pickup wiring color codes. I thought you might add it to the beginning of this thread. It might help some people trying to install different pickups in their guitars. I borrowed some of it from Seymour Duncan's website and some more to it.
Last edited by zakkwyldefan79 at Jan 7, 2009,
#173
Quote by Bossworld
To match fender/tonerider single coils:
Green to 5 way switch
Black and white soldered together
Red + ground to back of pot.

Thanks for any help!
From that I would surmise the Green (hot) goes to where your White was previously and the Black + White (soldered together at the terminal) go to where the Red was on the stock layout. As stated, Red and bare to ground.
That should give the coil-split in the 4th switch position but without the switch in front of me thats just what 'should' happen from the diagram.

Hope that helps.
#174
Quote by bellerophon
From that I would surmise the Green (hot) goes to where your White was previously and the Black + White (soldered together at the terminal) go to where the Red was on the stock layout. As stated, Red and bare to ground.
That should give the coil-split in the 4th switch position but without the switch in front of me thats just what 'should' happen from the diagram.

Hope that helps.



I'm probably confusing matters as I don't know much about guitar wiring, if I just followed the fender instructions, that'd just give a humbucker without a middle setting then?

So if i follow what you've written, it'll work like this?

(upside down picture for my scenario?!)

When 5 is selected, the black/white wire connection is connected to itself, not ground? to give a full humbucker in series.

When 4 is selected, the top coil is hot, then the black/white connection is straight to ground, bypassing the top coil?

Have I understood that right?
Thanks for the help, really appreciated.
Last edited by Bossworld at Jan 7, 2009,
#175
Try measuring the Ohms across the wires of the stock Ibanez pickup. Ground to Red then Ground to White. If I'm right the Ground to Red should be less (about half) than to White. Do try to do this before putting the new pickups in. If I'm wrong, what I suggested won't work.

Quote by Bossworld
That's brilliant mate, just wondering how the previous split worked with just three wires?
I would guess (having never dismantled an Ibanez pickup) that the two coils are joined at the pickup and a single wire (Red in this case) runs from that join to where it's needed in the circuit. All it means is that there are less wiring options available than with 4 conductor wiring.

Quote by Bossworld
The ibanez diagram doesn't mention a coloured wire to earth, but I'm guessing from what you've said, you need more grounding than just the bare wire.
Humbuckers are just 2 coils (normally in series) each coil has a start and finish = 4 wires, 1 of which is grounded to complete the circuit (3 are grounded for coil split). The pickup itself is grounded = bare.

Quote by Bossworld
I'm probably confusing matters as I don't know much about guitar wiring, if I just followed the fender instructions, that'd just give a humbucker without a middle setting then?
Sorry, not sure what you mean by that?

Quote by Bossworld
Is coil split the right term or am i just confusing matters, all I have is the five way switch, no push/pull knobs.
Yes. Some people say 'coil tap' which is a different thing (although along similar principles, the coil is 'tapped' along the winding to give a different tone). If I'm right about the colours of the Ibanez pickup all you'll need is the stock 5-way switch. No pp pots necessary
#176
Quote by Bossworld
When 5 is selected, the black/white wire connection is connected to itself, not ground? to give a full humbucker in series.

When 4 is selected, the top coil is hot, then the black/white connection is straight to ground, bypassing the top coil?

Have I understood that right?
Almost
The black/white is grounded, grounding the bottom coil out of the circuit and just allowing the top coil to function.
#177
Thanks for the reply, i've changed my post while you were replying by the looks of things so apologies for that!

Can't be arsed to buy a multimeter so i'll just test it all out when the final pickup arrives.

Think i was confused by this: http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=HSS_1v_1t_5w . Seems to be similar to the original instructions for a fender.

In that sort of wiring, am i right in thinking that 4th position would mean both the humbucker and middle coil are enabled, without a coil split on the humbucker? (that's not what i want!)

Once courseworks' due in i'll let you know how i get on!
#178
Quote by Bossworld
(upside down picture for my scenario?!)

When 5 is selected, the black/white wire connection is connected to itself, not ground? to give a full humbucker in series.

When 4 is selected, the top coil is hot, then the black/white connection is straight to ground, bypassing the top coil?

Have I understood that right?
Thanks for the help, really appreciated.
Yes, Joe. You seem to have it right.

It can be a bit confusing when changing pickups, because different manufacturers wire their pickups using their own colour code. Your toneriders apparently use the DiMarzio colour coding.


On your tonerider, the black and white tied together form the series link. (the connection on the left of your picture) this performs exactly the same function as the red wire of your ibanez pickup. the coils are connected together internally and only the red wire is available on the outside. when the red of the ibanez is connected to ground by the selector switch (position 4), it bypasses one coil (the top one in your picture)
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#180
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
Yes, Joe. You seem to have it right.

It can be a bit confusing when changing pickups, because different manufacturers wire their pickups using their own colour code. Your toneriders apparently use the DiMarzio colour coding.


On your tonerider, the black and white tied together form the series link. (the connection on the left of your picture) this performs exactly the same function as the red wire of your ibanez pickup. the coils are connected together internally and only the red wire is available on the outside. when the red of the ibanez is connected to ground by the selector switch (position 4), it bypasses one coil (the top one in your picture)


Brilliant thankyou, makes much more sense now. Cheers to bellerophon as well, you're both a credit to this site.

Just need to work out how to drill new holes for the pickups now (tele sized necks in strat size spaces!)
Last edited by Bossworld at Jan 7, 2009,
#181
the holes will be tricky.
the spacing between the strat mounting screws is 3.031 inches
the spacing between the tele mounting screws is 2.852 inches
way too much closer to use the old holes,
but the new holes will be adjacent to the old ones.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#182
Just going to have to make a very careful pilot hole i think. More worried about lining up properly than the location of the holes to be honest but the problem's my own making!
#184
Ok. So I've split both of the humbuckers in my guitar from 2 conductors to 4 conductors. I double checked ever solder along the way, and when I tried it, it was kinda quiet and buzzed a whole lot...

I looked it over and didn't see a grounding problem, so I took out the switch entirely and wired the south finish and north start together on both pickups, basically removing the mod entirely. I have a humbucker sound, but with a lot of buzzing and low output still..

The guide I found to do it suggested 22 gauge wire, and the average telephone wire is 24 gauge, so I ripped out the inner wires in a telephone wire and used that for all the wiring. It didn't seem like a problem at the time, but now that I'm trying to figure the buzzing out, do the wires in a guitar need to be shielded? I mean, they are insulated in plastic, and all the solder joints are taped off, but do they need a shield to prevent noise?

Edit: not exactly a diagram question, but w/e
Last edited by HibyPrime at Jan 8, 2009,
#187
not a guitar wiring question, but a speaker wiring question.

i'm building my own 1x12 cab so i'm obviously going to have to hook up a speaker. how do i wire it to a 1/4" jack ?

it's not this easy right ? correct my mistakes and maybe shine some light on my n00b wiring skills please

i used to be a mod, then i took an arrow in the knee.
#188
It's exactly that easy.

Unless that's an EXT. speaker jack. If so, you'll need a jack with a built-in SPST switch so that when a plug is inserted, it'll 'turn off' the normal speaker.

OTT, you're exactly right.
#189
by extension speaker jack you mean if i was building a cab to use with a combo right ?

i'll be using this cab with the new head i just got, so i have it right ?
i used to be a mod, then i took an arrow in the knee.
#191
awesome, thanks "jim". happy birthday btw
i used to be a mod, then i took an arrow in the knee.
#192
Quick question:

I'm going to wire a single humbucker to a volume pot that came from a guitar with 1 volume, and 2 tone knobs. How should I wire it? Sorry...I suck at electronics
#195
My soldering skills are a bit ****e, but got there in the end.

The humbucker bridge sounds fantastic, amazing sustain. The middle on its own is a bit brighter than the old one.

However, position 4 (humbucker + middle) sounds awful. I realise i've not got RWRP (whatever difference that makes) as i've mixed and matched, but it's a very thin sound. If i swapped some wiring around would it make a difference? Also, i think that pos. 4 is using the bottom part of the humbucker rather than the top, i've tested by tapping with a pair of tweezers and it does seem to be the bottom part. Would this be the reason for the not so great sound, or does it not really matter which part is split?

(haven't got the neck pickup yet so can't check if #2 sounds the same).

My tone pot is still crackly but don't think that's a wiring problem, think it probably needs swapping out.
Last edited by Bossworld at Jan 9, 2009,
#196
I posted above...and the diagram you supplied has bare, green, black and red wires coming from the humbucker...the humbucker I have just has two wires coming from it. One bare and one red. What do I do?
#197
@Bossworld

To change which coil is active just reverse the ground and hot outs from the HB.

The thin sound is probably the pickups out of phase. Reversing the HB outs might have the desired effect.

Did you send red to ground and green to hot and is the middle a Tonerider single?
#200
Hey, I was wondering if one of you guys could help me out with an idea by throwing together a diagram or something for an idea I had. I want to have the standard Les Paul wiring (2hb 2 vol 2 tone 3 way) but with 2 on/on switches (or whichever would work best) to split each pickup. I've been looking for a little while now and the closest I found is this but with 2 push pulls which I'm not too keen on. So if anyone can decipher my retarded description and can help, that would be awesome. Great thread btw.