#1
I built my own modded fuzz face clone with help of a BYOC fuzz face pcb and parts I had lying around. Sadly, it isn't working..
bypass works fine but when switched on the LED won't come on and there's no sound.

Here are the instructions etc. for the fuzz:
http://www.buildyourownclone.com/fuzzinstructionsV2.pdf

Here are the mods I implemented:
http://www.beavisaudio.com/Projects/FuzzLab/FuzzCloneMods_V2.gif
I did the boost mod non-switchable, I simply replaced 470 ohm with a 1K ohm on the board.
I also did not implement the feedback loop, because I've already built a seperate pedal for that.

I already troubleshooted a bit using this set of instructions (page 17-23):
http://buildyourownclone.com/esvfuzzinstructions.pdf
In the continuity check the 4.7k ohm to sleeve measurement didn't give a reading.
In the +9V check the 33k ohm to sleeve and the 470 ohm to sleeve measurements gave readings of approximately 0.5 - 0.8 V depending on how the bias and sag pots were set.

Should I just replace the components listed above? I just want to double check and get an outsider's opinion on this, that's the reason for creating this thread.

Cheers and thank you
The gear is in the profile.
You know you want to take a look





╠═══════╬═══════╣
Strat-mangling, echo-eating janglefan σƒ τλε τρπ βπστλεπλσσδ

╠═══════╬═══════╣
#2
Did you bother to make sure that it worked BEFORE implementing the mods? If not, then you should have. The best way to tackle pedals that you plan on modding is to make sure it works after every mod you implement. That way, when/if something goes wrong you can pinpoint where the problem is.

Just as the BYOC forum suggests, post high quality, detailed pictures of the front and back of your board as well as the off-board wiring. Simply providing us with the instructions you used won't give us what's needed to diagnose the problem.

If you didn't check to make sure it worked before modding it, it will also make it that much harder to pinpoint the problem.

Pictures, then we can help.
Guitar:
Dean Vendetta 3 - Dave Mustaine Livewires

Amplifier
Carvin X100B - Bias Mod - Tungsol 12AX7's - JJ KT77's

I have built the most badass 212 that puts all others to shame
#3
Picture will come up then, but it'll probably take me a few days.. I'll get back to you though.

MUCHO EDIT: also, I implemented the mods straight away, figuring it would all just mean extra stuff replacing the standard components.
I thought: 'what could possibly go wrong if I change out a trimpot for a full size pot/attach a pot to the DC jack/connect some switches with components attached in place of just a board-mounted component?'

Before I started soldering, I checked and matched the transistors, measured the resistors, they were all good. Didn't check the caps though, but most of them were either new or NOS.

Anyways, pics will be up probably Saturday
The gear is in the profile.
You know you want to take a look





╠═══════╬═══════╣
Strat-mangling, echo-eating janglefan σƒ τλε τρπ βπστλεπλσσδ

╠═══════╬═══════╣
Last edited by Lauke_101 at Dec 11, 2008,
#4
Quote by Lauke_101
I thought: 'what could possibly go wrong...




Now ya know.

Since nobody else has chimed in, when you get the pics, feel free to send me a message. This thread is pushed pretty far back and I may not see it. I'll be glad to help.
Guitar:
Dean Vendetta 3 - Dave Mustaine Livewires

Amplifier
Carvin X100B - Bias Mod - Tungsol 12AX7's - JJ KT77's

I have built the most badass 212 that puts all others to shame
#5
sounds like a simple case of ground and hot mixing somewhere. check obvious things first. Oftentimes when i screw something up, i overthink something very small and easy. Check to make sure your power supply has the right polarity, and you didn't fry components and such.

check everything easy. time to pull out the multimeter.
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...