#1
putting a project together

how would you make a pearl fretboard. well more just, how/what would you use to glue the pearl to the neck.

obvously it would have to be solid pearl. at warmoth i found out(through email questions and some difficulty) that their pearl solids are not really solid(their laminated) and that the solid blanks (actually solid) are the ones that say they are made in italy.

if i used the real (italian) pearl i could glue it then radius and cut the slots like normal right. will radiusing it cause any problems. dull finish? etc?

thanks
gian
#2
a pearl fretboard?

like, all pearl?

that'd be pricey, I'd imagine...

I'd think if you could get a slab that big you could just treat it like wood (cut it, slot it, radius it), but you might have to pay attention to how fragile it may be.

Interesting thought though
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Shwiggity.
#3
Quote by gian133
putting a project together

how would you make a pearl fretboard. well more just, how/what would you use to glue the pearl to the neck.

obvously it would have to be solid pearl. at warmoth i found out(through email questions and some difficulty) that their pearl solids are not really solid(their laminated) and that the solid blanks (actually solid) are the ones that say they are made in italy.

if i used the real (italian) pearl i could glue it then radius and cut the slots like normal right. will radiusing it cause any problems. dull finish? etc?

thanks
gian


Firstly, expect it to be expensive. Very expensive.

You won't get pearl thick enough for a full fret board, neither would I like to bet on it's strength, so you will need a fretboard.

Then you will need to thickness the fretboard to accommodate the thickness of the MOP.

Then, you would need really, just have the MOP, between the frets. So, nut to first fret, biggest bit, 1st to 2nd, smaller bit and so on.

However, then, you will be asking the fretwire, to hold in the MOP, which wont happen.

So what you would need to do, is get a regular fingerboard. Bind it, then mark your fret slots, and inlay huge chunks of MOP between the frets.

Probably fret it first as well.

Would look pretty cool though.
#4
i was thinking of using this

http://www.warmoth.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=84_86&products_id=25486

i would have a maple neck then buy a maple fretboard. thickness as you said to compensate for the pearl. glue(what should be used) it to the maple fretboard covering it completely. then radius it hopefully having enough material.(its a pickguard blank .080 thick . i hope it would be thick enough). then cut the fret slots and put the frets in(glued in probably?). then any fret markers if wanted.

that was my plan. do you see any problems there would be?

thanks
#5
Quote by gian133
i was thinking of using this

http://www.warmoth.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=84_86&products_id=25486

i would have a maple neck then buy a maple fretboard. thickness as you said to compensate for the pearl. glue(what should be used) it to the maple fretboard covering it completely. then radius it hopefully having enough material.(its a pickguard blank .080 thick . i hope it would be thick enough). then cut the fret slots and put the frets in(glued in probably?). then any fret markers if wanted.

that was my plan. do you see any problems there would be?

thanks
That's PEARLOID, not pearl. Basically plastic. And that's 10 INCH by 12 INCH block. Unless you're making a neck for Billy Barty, that's not going to be enough. I'd suggest, you back to a different drawing board.
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#6
so that material wouldnt work well. obvously if used it would have to be cut a put on in 2 pieces. but are you saying it wouldnt work to be radiused?

why would it not work?
maybe im unaware of something simple but please fill me in.

thanks again
gian
#7
From the Warmoth link you provided:
It tends to continue to cure over time, and may warp or shrink.


That alone would be sending up some red flags for me, I'd say you are probably better off doing them as individual inlays. I'd suggest buying a fretboard, slotting it for frets and binding it with warmoths pearloid binding material, and then inlay a piece of pearlto butt right up against each fret, so that there is still a little bit of wood from the fretboard holding the frets in. It won't look as clean as one or two large pieces of pearl going the whole length of the fretboard, but it'll definitly hold up a lot better and if done well can look very good. just my $.02
#8
ok so may have to go a different way with this. i'll think it out and research a bit more.

one new question. would it it be a horrible idea to not radius the fretboard. i mean i could get some thin, real mother of pearl blanks for cheaper than thick ones that could be radiused(obvously) so if i had to make the fretboard flat could i just get fret wire that is higher than i wanted and put it in flat then radius that. tell me if this is a horrible idea.

i would make the chance of getting sharp notes with the middle strings more likely i guess. i plan on having a 12inch radius. this could work but it might feel a little wierd?

gian

edit: or i guess another question would be. can a thin sheet of mother of pearl somehow be bend/curved. i.e. form it to a radiused fretboard?

i dont know. i really think this would be cool but cant afford a huge sheet of thick pearl
Last edited by gian133 at Dec 13, 2008,
#9
Well, inlay is what I do for a living, so here is my opinion.

Yes, this is doable as long as you don't have too small a radius on your fretboard. I would suggest 15" or 16" and definately not anything smaller than 14". Use .06" pearl or thicker if you can get it.

Start with an unradiused, slotted fretboard. Route out the area between the frets leaving just a little wood around the fret slots for the frets to grab on to. Don't worry if the thin little wood strips are brittle, they will strength up once you glue in the shell. Don't leave any more wood than the fret tops will cover. Use only industrial strength epoxy to glue on the pearl. Glue a couple of piece of pearl in at a time and them route the next section, it will be stronger that way.

When your done, radius away. Sand with a radius block.

I would not use pearliod as I don't think that will stand up to the ware and tear of playing.

Just my 2 cents for whatever that worth, which probably isn't a lot.
#10
Quote by cSuttle
Well, inlay is what I do for a living, so here is my opinion.

Yes, this is doable as long as you don't have too small a radius on your fretboard. I would suggest 15" or 16" and definately not anything smaller than 14". Use .06" pearl or thicker if you can get it.

Start with an unradiused, slotted fretboard. Route out the area between the frets leaving just a little wood around the fret slots for the frets to grab on to. Don't worry if the thin little wood strips are brittle, they will strength up once you glue in the shell. Don't leave any more wood than the fret tops will cover. Use only industrial strength epoxy to glue on the pearl. Glue a couple of piece of pearl in at a time and them route the next section, it will be stronger that way.

When your done, radius away. Sand with a radius block.

I would not use pearliod as I don't think that will stand up to the ware and tear of playing.

Just my 2 cents for whatever that worth, which probably isn't a lot.


This...

I'm glad, that my inexperienced opinion, was matched by someone who does it for a living (even if he did put it better than me)!