I use tung oil on the back of all my necks, because I love it's feel.

What about on finger boards? Maple is lacquered, but tung oil produces a similar, hard finish, right?

What about for ebony, rosewood, and conflicts with inlays, or any other woods?

Googling has revealed mixed results, and many people recommend tru-oil. I haven't found this at my local hardware store, maybe it goes under different names? I've seen Scandinavian oil, but I don't know what it is.

Thanks for any insight GB&C.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
whats happening brother. for rosewood boards i have always been told and used lemon oil. just put it on the board let it absorb some and rub clean. dont add to much or your strings kinda get messy. i have found it conditions rosewood boards and makes them play amazing. as for ebony i was curious as well. i dont know much about ebony other than i love them. hopefully someone can add insight on that. hope this helps.
i guess naturally it wont improve the playability. it just makes the fretboard smooth. with my guitars that have rosewood boards after playing them for a bit or a while without a string change the neck gets gritty and nasty so ill change strings, condition the fretboard and buckets. plays really smooth and slick but controlable. maybe i totally missed something lol.
Quote by LP Addict
maple with NO finish turns black, maple with tung oil turns green.

so basically, pick you poison.

i thought that most/all fender maple necks (the back) were finished with tung oil
let me know please because im planning a build and was going from the fact that i love the feel of my fendr neck and i thought it was tung oil

Do just the fretboards turn green, because all the backs of my necks are still mapley.

Well, I'll stick to satin lacquer I do suppose.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
Why can't you just use the same oil you finish the back of the neck with to finish the fingerboard?? Especially if it's maple? If that doesn't work, it is certainly a counter-intuitive reality....if you can finish a maple neck nice and groovy with tung, Danish, or tru-oil, shouldn't you be able to finish a maple board the same way?
^ That was my thought, but I thought I would ask here first.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
I haven't tried an oil finish on a maple fingerboard. I did have a disaster on a rosewood board once, the oil finish simply refused to set up and harden enough for the job. After weeks of fighting it I ended up removing the mess. I don't know how well it would work on a maple board. The finger board finish needs to be a lot harder than the back of the neck.

Tru-Oil is found with shooting accessories. Usually used for gun stocks. It is good stuff.
tru oil sucks. pure danish/linseed oil is the best as far as true oil finishes. rosewood is oily, its difficult to finish, rubbing oil on it doesnt do anything but make it a little darker. there is different ass coming from your FINGERS than the palm of your hand. it will turn an ugly light green, then black after a few years of play.
Pure tung oil wont work well takes a long time to cure. But something like formbys tung oil finish will as will similar products. I went and looked up tung oil on maple as Im building a guitar and will be using a maple fretboard. Ive used it on maple necks with no problems. Several sites say its fine to use oil on maple fretboards for a finish. Made no mention of turning colors.
When I change strings on my guitars I rub the fretboard down with very fine wire wool to clean it and I then (not every time, but sometimes) put a bit of linseed oil on the fretboard and buff off. Been all ok so far, just tends to smell for a short time. Especially when you spill it all over the guitar!
Double Neck Project - Winner of 2006 GB&C "Best guitar build from scratch", "(Best) Most expensive build" and "Best Idea" awards - FINISHED!

Member #2 of the UG Luthier's club. PM AlGeeEater to join.