#1
haha, get it?

right, so, the very first guitar i ever owned is a fender squire strat from one of those starter packs that i got about ten years ago. this summer when i was finishing up my custom build (which isn't quite done) i figured that the guitar sitting in the corner of my basement wasn't doing anyone any good. so what did I do? I took a belt sander to it.







I think it went pretty well. I still need to sand and apply clear coat.

my plan is to make it similar to Dave Murray's guitar, so the plan is to put in a hot rails pickup in the bridge and a super distorstion in the other two.

what does everyone advise I use for my clear coat? the paint is gloss spray paint. i cant remember the brand name off the top of my head, but i could run and check if it is really important. the other question is where is the best place to get a pick guard? I was thinking about using a green pearl, but im open to suggestions.

thoughts?
#2
Very wide black burst in my opinion, pickguard is probably going to cover up 90% of the green.
Gear:
Schecter Hellraiser Deluxe
Boss DS-1
Crate GTD65

GAS List:
Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier Roadster
#3
i thought about that, but it actually looks pretty good with a pickguard on it. I'm gonna wait and see how it looks once i do some sanding.
#5
^ His plan is to make it similiar to Dave Murray's guitar.

Dave Murray uses seymour duncan single coil sized humbuckers.
Don't take me too seriously.

Live Life
#6
from what i've found he uses both seymour duncan hot rails and dimarzio super distortions, but i've yet to find an official list of what he uses and where, so i plan to use my own judgment on that. which is why im going to mix it up and use both brands
#7

when spraying the clear coat on, there was something that happened that really concerns me. the clear coat got scaly in some spots, and it ended up pulling the black paint apart in some spots, which is why the burst looks different than it did before. i think it looks great now, but i wont be able to sand it for a few weeks, so i can only hope for the best until i can sand it smooth.

put the old pickguard on it, just to prove that you can see the burst still.
#8
does anyone have any advice on that rippling im getting in some spots? it should be pretty easy to see in the last picture.
#10
Is your gloss spray acrylic? If I remember correctly a cellulose lacquer over acrylic paint reacts badly. You can put acrylic on cellulose but not the other way round (I think, been a while since I touched either...)
#11
lets see here, the paint is krylon indoor/out door gloss, and the clear coat is rustoleum crystal clear gloss. i'm not sure about the chemical mixture for each of them since, unfortunately, it isn't printed on the can. I've got three coats of clear, and i'm really hoping that once it sets for another week or so i'll be able to sand it smooth without going through to the paint.
#14


Use a guide coat over your primer next time.

Use a sealer.

Use a base coat, not a coloured lacquer.

Then clear it with a compatible clear coat.
#15
whoah, brutal skeet, but noted nonetheless. what is a guide coat exactly? thee was nothing about the paints i used that even suggested what kind it was, and more importantly, whether or not it would be compatible with anything else. can i sand this smooth and fix the blemishes?
#16
Quote by EclipseNine
whoah, brutal skeet, but noted nonetheless. what is a guide coat exactly? thee was nothing about the paints i used that even suggested what kind it was, and more importantly, whether or not it would be compatible with anything else. can i sand this smooth and fix the blemishes?


LOL! Nice to see you have the right attitude. I say it how I see it, Kudos to you sir.

OK. So, sand back to the wood to P220 grit.

Wipe down the guitar with Acetone and then wipe it off with a dry cloth.

Use rubber gloves while you handle the guitar from now on. (protects from contaminants).

Spray two coats (1 coat is 3 passes about 5-10 mins in between) of primer.

Once it is dry, spray a mist (patchy, thin) coat of a contrasting colour over the whole guitar. So if your primer is white or grey, spray black etc.

This is your Guide Coat. Take a Block with P220 on it, and go over the whole body.

What you will see, is that any big dips or dents etc, will still have black paint in. You can then assess these and fill them with an epoxy filler.

Sand any filled areas down, then spray primer onto the filled areas only, wait a bit, then spray another 2 coats, this way the filled areas get an extra coat.

Sand to P320 and it should look nice and smooth and a UNIFORM COLOUR. Now, I would then spray a sealer, which can stop bleed through etc, but that is up to you.

If you do, spray two coats and lightly sand with P320 after it is dry.

Then apply your colour coats (1 coat is 3 passes with 5-10 mins in between).

If it is a solid colour, you may wet sand it if you like with P600 Grit.

If it is metallic, it requires clear coat, so if you sand it, it will be fooked.

The type of paint will be on the label, look in the health warning bit.

You should wipe over briskly with acetone and wipe off between sanding and applying a new coat.

Keep those rubber gloves on, change if required.

I would use a 2k (2 Pack) clear coat, that you can buy in spray cans now for about $12 on ebay.

This will dry hard and quick (24 hours at around 70F).

Paint in warm temperature (not less than 65-70F) warm the paint a little in warm water before spraying.

Change masking tape between layers. IE. After priming is done, change the tape. After colour coats, change the tape.

This prevents thick edges being built up. You can sand these edges down a touch between masking if you like.

Clear coat wise. Apply 2-3 coats (what does a coat equal again?). Don't worry about wet sanding between these coats.

Wet sand with P1200 after the last coat has dried. You can then add a final wet coat if you wish, let that dry and wet sand and buff, or just go straight to buffing.

Always use a block to sand with, except on edges. Edges, you should sand gently OVER, not ALONG with the paper on the palm of your hand and only enough to take the shine off.

When wet sanding, soak the paper in the water (warm) for 20 mins prior to use and add some liquid soap (just a little) to the water.
#17
wow, in prepping to do this none of the tutorials i read were as good as this. thats fantastic. i really appreciate you putting the time into this. i will admit, i dread sanding all the way down to wood again, but it would definitely be worth it. Luckily i dont have any of the pickups or parts for the (with exception of flloyd rose) so i have plenty of time. is there any type of paint for the color you would recommend over another type?
#18
Quote by EclipseNine
wow, in prepping to do this none of the tutorials i read were as good as this. thats fantastic. i really appreciate you putting the time into this. i will admit, i dread sanding all the way down to wood again, but it would definitely be worth it. Luckily i dont have any of the pickups or parts for the (with exception of flloyd rose) so i have plenty of time. is there any type of paint for the color you would recommend over another type?



If you have access to a spray gun or two, compressor and some money. House of Kolor.

TCP Global on Ebay sell it. Go for their Airbrush series paint, which is sold in smaller quantities.

If not, spray cans dude...
#19
alright, well i don't know when I'll get the chance to get back to this since my vacation is coming to an end, and when i go back to my apartment i dot have access to a garage, or any space, or even paint, since spray paint is illegal to sell inside the city limits of Chicago.
#20
As for pickups, Dave Murray used Super Distortion/ PAF Pro, but now he mainly uses Duncan Hotrails, especially live. Check out Iron Maiden's Rock In Rio, or Death On the Road DVDs for live footage. In both he uses/used hotrails.
|~| Iron Maiden addiction |~|
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gear in profile
#21
Quote by Sendrith
As for pickups, Dave Murray used Super Distortion/ PAF Pro, but now he mainly uses Duncan Hotrails, especially live. Check out Iron Maiden's Rock In Rio, or Death On the Road DVDs for live footage. In both he uses/used hotrails.

all hot rails? i know he used to use the super distortion earlier in his career, so i was thinking of going with a mix of the two to give me nice versatility in tone.
#22
hey dude sorry to bump and all but I started a project along these lines a while ago and i have no idea what to do with paint/fine sanding, iv got all the paint off but I dont know what kind of paint to buy. . . but then i was thinking of leaving it natural. . . any thoughts?
Equipment:
PRS SE custom Cherryburst
dean razorback V (green/black) currently on ebay
Digitech Death metal pedal [wanting to sell - £15]
Zoom G1X [wanting to sell - £25]
Line6 UX1 (with metal shop add on)
#23
Nice...I just started a squier rebuild. I only have it sanded though. Not shure what color to do...