#1
hey wat cabs go best with the 6505+ head? id like to keep the wattage to the minimum. thanks.
#2
look at avatar cabs, their pretty cheap and their great for tight metal. also orange and invader cabs are good if you can afford them
periphery/bulb!

gear:
Ibanez RG7321 w/ D-sonic in bridge

Peavey 5150 mk ii & b52 4x12 cab

line 6 podxt for recording

Quote by AsOneIStand
Head and Cab for $130? You don't need a head and cabinet, you need a psychological examination.
#3
You'd better be trying to get something that has at least 160-200 watts power handling. If you wanted to keep the wattage to a minimum, you shouldn't have bought a 120 watt head...
#4
well you need something with at least 120 watt handling otherwise you run the risk of blowing your speakers if you turn the amp too high. Even then you probably want more to give your speakers plenty of headroom so you dont get any hiss. Avatar cabs are your best bet if you are going new, otherwise looking used is not a bad option. Mesa recto cabs are great for metal.
#5
wat about the rectifier 2x12? ive seen lots of them used with the 6505+
#6
Quote by darlord
wat about the rectifier 2x12? ive seen lots of them used with the 6505+


if you can afford one, go for it. if you want that really tight tone though, either an orange or an invader cab is the way to go though. ultimately though, we need your budget
periphery/bulb!

gear:
Ibanez RG7321 w/ D-sonic in bridge

Peavey 5150 mk ii & b52 4x12 cab

line 6 podxt for recording

Quote by AsOneIStand
Head and Cab for $130? You don't need a head and cabinet, you need a psychological examination.
#7
Vader cabs make an excellent pairing with the 5150/6505s, and most other high-gain heads for that matter.
Mesa cabs are good, but not spectacular, and there are certainly better at that price point.

Do not, under any circumstances, go for a Marshall 1960A/B. They will really accentuate your 6505's high end, leaving you with tons of horrible fizz, while simultaneously muddying up the rest of the frequency range.

Also, in case you're not sure, the wattage of a cab is it's maximum power handling rating. This means that you shouldn't use a head of a higher wattage than this value with it, and doesn't directly affect the volume outputted by the cab.
In reality, you can push a cab slightly harder than it's rating intentionally if you're aiming for speaker distortion, though you will shorten the life of the speakers considerably.
Last edited by Nolly at Dec 27, 2008,
#8
What about a 1960AV though? The one with V30s?
Gear:
Peavey JSX Head
Ibanez PGM301
Randall R212CB


Simple.
#9
Quote by willyman101
What about a 1960AV though? The one with V30s?


They're better, but the modern Marshall cabs all tend to be very shrill and undefined. Unless you find yourself a 20 or 30 year old Marshall cab with that magical quality (some of them are absolutely excellent) for very little, I'd stay away from them. Even then, I'm sure that if you found one, you wouldn't want to dare using it live.

Looking at your sig, the Orange would definitely be a better choice.
#10
Quote by Nolly
They're better, but the modern Marshall cabs all tend to be very shrill and undefined. Unless you find yourself a 20 or 30 year old Marshall cab with that magical quality (some of them are absolutely excellent) for very little, I'd stay away from them. Even then, I'm sure that if you found one, you wouldn't want to dare using it live.

Looking at your sig, the Orange would definitely be a better choice.


Yeah, they're roughly the same price... I was just worried about the power handling, it's 120watts to a 120watt head, so it shouldn't be an issue but just incase...?
Gear:
Peavey JSX Head
Ibanez PGM301
Randall R212CB


Simple.
#11
Quote by willyman101
Yeah, they're roughly the same price... I was just worried about the power handling, it's 120watts to a 120watt head, so it shouldn't be an issue but just incase...?


You should be fine with that.
That said, the Vader 2x12 is roughly the same price, is a stupidly good metal cab (and is great for all other stuff too), and is rated at 240 watts. It's also built like a tank to the extent that it doesn't need a flightcase if you're gigging.
#12
Quote by Nolly
You should be fine with that.
That said, the Vader 2x12 is roughly the same price, is a stupidly good metal cab (and is great for all other stuff too), and is rated at 240 watts. It's also built like a tank to the extent that it doesn't need a flightcase if you're gigging.


Yeah, but can you buy Vader in the UK? Do ya know where?
Gear:
Peavey JSX Head
Ibanez PGM301
Randall R212CB


Simple.
#14
Orange 2x12?
Ibanez PGM301 signed by Paul Gilbert
Ibanez PGM 500
Ibanez Fireman custom
Saving for a GH100L/VH100R
Orange PPC212 2X12
#15
Vader 2x12 or 4x12 is amazing for metal.
never tried an avatar, but they have a great reputation.
Mesa recto cabs are pretty good.
i have mine running through a Marshall 1960 AV with vintage 30's.
great sounds...
Fender MIA Standard Strat
ESP LTD Viper 407
Epiphone SG
Starcaster by Fender(modded with Bill Lawrence l-500-xl)
PEAVEY 6505+ (FJA transistor modd)
Peavey 65 watt transtube studio-112
Marshall 1960AV
Vader 2x12
ISP Decimator
MXR 10 band EQ
#16
i want to be able to get a good sound at the lowest volume possible (im getting an attenuator). So will different cabs affect the volume that i get good tone at?
#17
Quote by darlord
i want to be able to get a good sound at the lowest volume possible (im getting an attenuator). So will different cabs affect the volume that i get good tone at?


Different types of speakers have different response curves, so will have differing optimal volumes. It's not really worth basing your decision off this though, as the inherent tonal characteristics of each type of speaker is going to be have a larger impact on the sound produced by the cab.

Bear in mind that attenuating the amp will not entirely replicate the effect of the amp running flat out - for that you absolutely need to have the speakers being pushed hard. The more you attenuate the amp, the thinner your tone will get too.

With an amp like the 6505, where the massive majority of gain is being introduced at the preamp stage, an attenuator is not a very worthwhile acquisition. The scenario where an attenuator is necessary is when you're using a non-master volume amp, where you have to increase the volume to get the necessary gain.

My suggestion would be not to get an attenuator, and instead put that money towards a better cab instead.
In fact, do you already have the amp? If not, it sounds like a 6505 really isn't a good choice of amp for you at all - high-wattage heads are absolutely not designed for low-volume use. If you're planning on getting it solely for bedroom use, you're likely to be disappointed. Perhaps something like a Krank Rev Jr would be better suited to your needs.
#18
ok in that case i waould like opinions for best possible bedroom amp for around 1000$ or a little higher perhaps if needed
#19
I'm assuming you're going to be playing metal mainly. If you don't need versatility then, as I mentioned, the Krank Revolution JR would be a great choice for you.
#20
can we get some tones u really like? do u need much of a clean tone?
Paul Reed Smith CE22
Fender Spalted Maple HH Tele
Epiphone Les Paul Standard
Korg Pitchblack
Boss GE-8 Graphic EQ
Dunlop ZW Wah
BBE Two Timer
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV Combo
Mesa/Boogie Rectifier 212

www.myspace.com/shapesofgrey
#21
anything but a 1960 cab.... I made that mistake
My Band =]
We play some goffic pish
Its fun

Leave us a comment, we'll get back to you =]
#22
What does anyone reckon about a randall 2x12 with V30s?
Gear:
Peavey JSX Head
Ibanez PGM301
Randall R212CB


Simple.
#23
1960 cabs only sound fizzy and and have shrill sounding high end with a 6505 when you play at low volume levels.

Which shouldn't be done with either pieces of these equipment. They are meant to be played LOUD.
MARSHALL JVM 210H
PEAVEY JSX
KRANK 412
MESA 412
FENDER STRATS
DIMARZIO
CELESTION