#1
I got a Laney GC80 solid state amp from a friend for a steal at 20USD....he found it in the garbage but when I got it home, it fired up and was very nice..But now im starting to notice that every once in a while the amp sounds dull and when you start playing the volume crackles and fluxuates a little...and if u keep playing for like 30 minutes liek that...it will "warm up"....Any ideas on what this could be? Short of buying a Line 6 Spider 75w Amp head(because the speaker inside the amp is disconnectable through a wire from the head...although theyre built into the same cabinet....) Kind of confusing....Any ideas as to what this could be? I dont want to buy a new head to replace the one in there!!!!!
#2
have you checked all the connections on the wires?
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#5
Quote by Invader Jim
Could just be a dirty or defective pot. You'd be surprised at the damage those little bastards can do.


Let me not start saying what happened to an amp i fixed 2 weeks ago lol. I changed literally half of the components since it was such an old Fender Champion, forgot the exact model now. When i came to my senses started checking the pots and bam, the mid and bass pots were a bit chunky. After one quick swap it was fixed and i went "..." for about an hour or so lol.
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#6
could be worse, a amp at guitar center broke on me somehow.

the salesmen couldnt even get it to work, he said it wasnt my fault so i wasnt charged for it.


but in your case sounds like some old worn/corroded pots
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#8
i dont understand why noone like the spider amps. i has the spider III and it a sweet amp for the price. i think theyre sick
#9
because tube is > all, especially digital amps.

play through a nice tube amp, then tell me a spider amp is "sick"
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#10
i know my friend has a fender tube amp and yes its amazing, but my spider amp is a good amp for the price.
#13
No more talk of which amp is better.

If cleaning the pots doesn't work, replace them. If that doesn't work, check the PCB for any burned spots or fried components or iffy-looking solder joints. If you don't find any, check and clean all connectors. Same with any socketed components (idk if it'll have any, though).

The guy at Beavis Audio fixed an old dead rack delay of Zappa's just by re-seating the ICs and cleaning the connectors. You could be as lucky.
#14
Are they just regular pots like the same i would use on a guitar.? if so what type 250k ? 500k? 50k?...Is it just like...Solder off...then Solder onto the new pot?
#16
Okay...should I cut all the connections and re-solder them....? Clean the pots....test the pots? Im somewhat of a noob at the troubleshooting aspect..
#18
And if there are...re solder/change pots? and how do i know what type of pot to replace it with, is tthe xxxK measurement the DC resistance?
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#19
Yes, that is the resistance. For example, 250K stamped on the casing would indicate that it is a 250 000 ohm pot.
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#20
First, re-heat the solder joints. Sometimes this'll fix a joint that's gone 'cold' over time.

Then clean the pots. Spray electrical contact cleaner inside them (under the wafer where the lugs are riveted to) and give the shaft a few quick turns and blow it out with a can of compressed air.

If those don't fix it, THEN replace them. They are just pots. Like in a guitar. Their value and taper will usually be stamped on the back or inked on the front at the top (and on old pots, it'll be along the side somewhere). If not, remove the pot from the amp and measure the outer lugs with a multi-meter. Remember that pot ratings are +/- 20%.
#21
If i push in the "Middle" Control Knob, the amp crackles and does the things it does, that made me post this thread....does that mean that pot probably needs a cleaning/replacement?
Fender Custom Shop Telecaster
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Gibson ES-339
Mesa/Boogie Single Rectifier
Marshall JCM900 1960a Lead 4x12