#1
i recieved an ibanez g10 for xmas it is used....the plug in on the guitar only works if i jiggle the cable....how do i repair? where do i buy a new plug in thing?
#2
how long do u have it u maye can take it the shop where u bought it and get a new 1
MY GEAR
Gibson:SG special faded
Behringer:???
Behringer:V-tone GM108
Laney:TF400
Drums:Trax
Dunlop:Crybaby
#4
Guitar center.

To aid your search, the official name is Jack.
Quote by Nexium
Ive accidently busted my nut.
#5
99% chance that the jack on your guitar has a broken solder connection. the other one percent is that the contact on the inside is just bent. (this is assuming it's the guitar and not the cable that's the issue)

it's an easy fix if you have a soldering iron, otherwise you'd need to take it to a shop to get it repaired (at a ridiculous price in most cases, unless the tech is cool. if he is, ask him if you can watch and maybe learn a little about your new instrument)
'57 Reissue Gibson Les Paul Custom, Jackson Soloist SL2H
Marshall MF350
Cry Baby, Carbon Copy, Phase 90

Quote by strat0blaster
I remember this one time - Jesus played Eruption on a lute with strings made from the hair of 23 virgins.

It was pretty hardcore.
#6
You're going to need a soldering iron. Something that every guitar player should own and know how to operate. One of the two wires that connects to the inside of the jack has probably broken loose. If you remove the two screws holding the jack in place, or remove the back cover plate (whichever applies), you'll see the two wires that connect to it. One will likely be loose. The other possibility is one of the prongs that connects to the 1/4" male is no longer making good contact. If this is the case, just bend it back into position.

If the wire is broken and you want to fix it yourself, go to Radio Shack and pick up a cheap 25 watt soldering iron. It doesn't have to be anything fancy. Also get some 60/40 solder. Carefully strip back 3/8" to 1/4" of insulation on the broken wire. When you do this, be sure you don't break any of the strands of wire. Plug in the soldering iron and let it get hot. You'll know it's hot, because the tip will start to smoke. Touch some of the solder to the tip. It should readily melt and turn into a liquid. If it's not hot enough, the solder may fuse to the tip, or it may tend to look a little grainy. It really shouldn't take more than 5 minutes to heat the tip.

Back to the wire: Observe the strands and notice that they were twisted prior to stripping the insulation. Twist them again in the same direction. At this point, the soldering tip should have a little solder on it. If not, apply a little solder to it. This will help transfer the heat to the wire and connector tabs. While applying the tip to the twisted wire, also apply solder and 'tin' the leads. Not too much, just enough to coat them in solder. If done right, you should still be able to see the individual strands - provided they used stranded wire. If it gets blobby, redo it. Using a small pair of pliers, grab the end of the tinned wire and bend in a U shape back on itself. If the tinned end were pointing away from you, it should now be looking back at you. Got it?

Now to the 1/4" female jack: Locate the place where the wire originally connected. Sometimes, you'll see an eyelet and evidence of where it broke from. If the old piece of wire is still connected to this point, we need to remove it. Heat the connection until the solder liquifies and use a desoldering bulb, or small screwdriver to remove the old wire. Be careful using tools to do this, as hot solder can go flying and hit you - often in the face. Best to use a desoldering bulb or desoldering tool designed for the task. With the old wire removed, and likely the old solder, it's time to connect the newly tinned wire. Hook the wire into the eyelet and hold it just tight enough to hold it in place without deforming the U bend. This next step gets a bit tricky, but a good electronics tech can almost do it with his eyes closed. The objective is to hold the solder and the wire in the same hand and use your other hand to solder the wire into place. It gets tricky, because you have to be able to feed the solder while holding the wire AND soldering - without burning yourself. Try to avoid 'carrying' solder. This is a practice where someone will apply solder to the tip of the iron and carry it to the item to be soldered. It's a beginner trick and scoffed upon by qualified techs, not to mention any electronics school. As soon as the solder flows and coats the wire and the eyelet, remove the iron and allow it to cool - but DON'T let go of the wire. If the wire is allowed to move, the connection will be 'cold' and you'll have to reheat it. A cold solder connection is characterized by a grainy look. A good connection should be smooth and shiny. After 10 seconds or so, the connection should be cooled enough to let go of the wire. Reassemble everything and try it now. Should be good as new.
#7
wow i just feel like i learned to solder all over again. i'm gonna go build an amp!
'57 Reissue Gibson Les Paul Custom, Jackson Soloist SL2H
Marshall MF350
Cry Baby, Carbon Copy, Phase 90

Quote by strat0blaster
I remember this one time - Jesus played Eruption on a lute with strings made from the hair of 23 virgins.

It was pretty hardcore.
#8
The jack is probably just oxidized. If you remove the access cover you will see the jack. Use a small piece of fine sandpaper and just brush the point where the plug contacts that jack. Then roll the paper into a tube and lightly sand the inside barrel of the jack. You don't need to do a lot on either just enough to remove the build up that is causing the poor connection.
#9
I could've gone into more detail, but this Tele on my lap is calling my to play it.

Actually, I should've also mentioned that you'll want a small sponge. Again, you don't need anything fancy and you can actually buy them in the electronics section at Radio Shack. The purpose of the sponge is to dab the tip of the iron. This will remove oxidation and keep the tip clean. This should be done just prior to making a connection. It should also be performed just prior to turning off the iron. Wipe the tip and apply fresh solder. Failure to do this will wear out the tip a lot faster.

One more tip: If you just plan on soldering every once in awhile, the Radio Shack iron is fine. If you plan on building an amp, like CvPrEpKiLLaH, then I'd recommend getting something a lot better, such as a Weller WP35, or something similar. Weller makes a much better iron and you can also replace the standard tip with a myriad of different types.

If anyone has any soldering questions, just send me a message.
#10
wow...Kg6_steven pwns
problem fixed bent that one thing in a little and cleaned jack out with a Que. tip and some rubbing alcohol thanks guys
Last edited by panda... at Dec 30, 2008,