#1
Well, I just bought a Peavey Classic 30 today and I was wondering two things: One is, when a tube blows out of it, do I have to replace them all? The other is, should this thing make a "pop" noise when I shut it off? It's a loud pop, and I was wondering if I have to turn something down before I turn it off.

Anyways, it's an awsome amp and I got it for $100 off! Thanks, UG, for reccomending it to me!
#2
i think that's normal since the classic 30 doesn't have a standby switch. i think.......someone correct me if i'm wrong on this
#3
Quote by kckyle
i think that's normal since the classic 30 doesn't have a standby switch. i think.......someone correct me if i'm wrong on this

No, there's no standby switch. So then the pop is normal?
#4
the pop is completely normal. most amps have it, too (at least most of the ones i have used)
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#6
Quote by The.new.guy
Well, I just bought a Peavey Classic 30 today and I was wondering two things: One is, when a tube blows out of it, do I have to replace them all? The other is, should this thing make a "pop" noise when I shut it off? It's a loud pop, and I was wondering if I have to turn something down before I turn it off.

Anyways, it's an awsome amp and I got it for $100 off! Thanks, UG, for reccomending it to me!


Generally, here's what you're going to do. Depending on how much you play, you'll probably want to replace the power tubes at around the year to a year and a half point. They wear out faster, since they work harder. Replace them at the same time if they're several months old and one fails.

The pre-amp tubes usually last up to about two and a half years. If one fails and there's still plenty of life in them, I'd just replace the one. If you've got a lot of time on them and one fails, replace all of them. You can always keep the others for spares.

I had a 12AX7 fail on my Mesa recently. It was less than 6 mos old. I replaced the bad tube and left the others alone. A few weeks later, I pulled it out of the box and discovered the getter (silver coating) was gray. This indicates the tube developed a leak. It'll happen - just keep spares.
#7
Quote by KG6_Steven
Generally, here's what you're going to do. Depending on how much you play, you'll probably want to replace the power tubes at around the year to a year and a half point. They wear out faster, since they work harder. Replace them at the same time if they're several months old and one fails.

The pre-amp tubes usually last up to about two and a half years. If one fails and there's still plenty of life in them, I'd just replace the one. If you've got a lot of time on them and one fails, replace all of them. You can always keep the others for spares.

I had a 12AX7 fail on my Mesa recently. It was less than 6 mos old. I replaced the bad tube and left the others alone. A few weeks later, I pulled it out of the box and discovered the getter (silver coating) was gray. This indicates the tube developed a leak. It'll happen - just keep spares.


When should I replace the powertubes in my VK? It'll be used for Metal/Shred mainly, so It'll pretty much be little power tube work, and tons of Pre-amp tube work.
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I tried it out in store.

Great neck, nice n light, good tuning stability. Overall a good guitar. I didn't but it cause I generally only buy guitars over a grand now.
#8
I should probably explain why you want to replace power tubes in sets. This is due to their bias. Depending upon your amp, it'll either have fixed bias or user adjustable bias. As a tube ages, the bias will drift. If your amp has adjustable bias, you should check it when you first install new power tubes and again a few months later. Bias is important, since it determines how hard the power tubes work and at what point they go into distortion. Bias is never set for pre-amp tubes, only power tubes. If your power tubes are several months old and one goes bad, the replacement tube will have will not match the tube(s) already installed. This will cause a mismatch and the tubes will not pull an even load. It's important they work together and that one tube doesn't work harder than the rest.

Check your manual or ask the experts in this forum, if you're unable to determine whether your amp has manual or fixed bias.
#9
Quote by V.U.K
When should I replace the powertubes in my VK? It'll be used for Metal/Shred mainly, so It'll pretty much be little power tube work, and tons of Pre-amp tube work.



No. The power tubes always work the hardest. Even if you're playing country. The plate dissipation on the power tubes is usually, on some amps, right at 100%. Pre-amp tubes work with small signals and lower voltages, which is why they last much longer.

To answer your question. It depends on how often you play and how loud you crank your amp. If you play everyday and crank it up fairly loud, I'd say about a year. If you play at moderate to low levels, you should get at least a year and a half, maybe more. With tubes, it's easy to tell when they're ready to be replaced - they let you know. Symptoms of worn tubes include:

Lower than normal volume
Poor tone
Volume that increases, or "swells"
Hum
Popping noises (arcing inside of the tube)
#10
Well, I have no idea what bias is, let alone if my amp has ajustable bias or not. I'm pretty much a total fool when it comes to tube amps, tubes etc. I'm a technique guy with a little bit of guitar electronics under my belt. Amps are not in my area of expertise. (Not saying I'm an expert at anything, it's just out of my area of knowledge.)
#11
Well, as the owner of a tube amp, these are things you need to know. Tube amps reward us with great tone, but they also need a bit more pampering than their semiconductor brothers do. I don't know if all Peavey amps are the same, but my VK112 has fixed bias. More than likely, yours is the same way. Again, check your manual. It will let you know if the bias needs to be set after replacing the tubes. If it does, buy yourself an inexpensive digital voltmeter and the bias tool that Musician's Friend sells. Learn how to do it yourself and save money. It'll cost you around $50 to have a technician do it for you. It doesn't take too many of those to pay for a set of tubes.
#12
Ok, thanks. Here's another thing, I know what these are, but what would you suggest to me when I replace tubes: The manual says that it has four 6BQ5/EL84's with 12AX7 driver for the power amp and two 12AX7's in the preamp. I can't find the tubes that are in the power amp except for the 12AX7 driver. What do you suggest I use as a replacement?

P.S. I know I sound like a total idiot for not doing my homework before I bought it, it's just that I didn't know there was this much that I needed to know about them. Sorry about that.
#13
the Peavey classic 30 is cathode biased so you don't have to adjust anythin. just buy matching tubes and your set.

the peavey classic 30 DOES NOT have a standby switch which might be the reason why it pops. mine's does it too.

if i remember correctly, the classic 30's tubes are connected in series NOT parallel. meaning if you blow one tube, it won't work until you replace that particular tube.

hope that info helps
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#14
Quote by SomebodySomeone
the Peavey classic 30 is cathode biased so you don't have to adjust anythin. just buy matching tubes and your set.

the peavey classic 30 DOES NOT have a standby switch which might be the reason why it pops. mine's does it too.

if i remember correctly, the classic 30's tubes are connected in series NOT parallel. meaning if you blow one tube, it won't work until you replace that particular tube.

hope that info helps

Definately helps! Thanks a lot!
#15
Quote by The.new.guy
Definately helps! Thanks a lot!


no problem

BTW do you have the head version or the combo?
if combo is it the newer ones or the oldschool ones?
Quote by metaldud536
...I mean if indians stood naked in front of me, i couldn't tell if they're hispanic or native american. unless they put on clothes

At first he was like...
Quote by Twistedrock
I love you, man. No homo

But then, he was like...
Quote by Twistedrock
I love you even more now. Slightly homo