#1
Guitar: ESP M207 7 String/w custom EMG 707s @ 18v
Licensed Floyd-Rose
Light 10-52 strings

Here is my problem, I'm trying to get low profile setting on my guitar for maximum smooth and fluid playability, but when I'm up towards frets 12-24 the strings are just a little too high for my liking, I've adjusted the tremolo poles to minimal height with minimum buzz, the neck is pretty damn straight with just enough relief where it needs to be. From frets 1-12 is close enough(almost too close) and i want to be able to raise(lower?) the pitch of the neck so the higher frets will sit closer to the strings making my hammer ons and pull offs seem not so twangy/ sh****y sounding and be able to get a more crisper controlled sound. I'm sure Ill need to get a re fret or a full fret dressing but I'm working my way up the ladder first before I HAVE to let my baby out of my sight.

So how would I go about calculating this adjustment, what type of material would I use as spacers, what is a good placement for the offsetting spacers... etc the whole 9 yards of information that go along with doing this procedure.

And would the spacing of neck and body(depending on material used I'm guessing) drastically effect the sustain and quality of my guitars tone?

And another question... I would like to thin the neck out to be a little more flatter... a good idea or just leave it alone and get another guitar that has the neck a want? (RC7G that is)
Last edited by m207emg at Jan 11, 2009,
#2
Does no one have any suggestions or comments whatsoever, or is this just too much of a ridiculous question?
#3
It actually sounds to me like you need to adjust your truss rod, seeing that the first half of the frets are low enough.


InB4"DON'T ADJUST TRUSS ROD TO ADJUST ACTION!!!1!!11!!!"


The reality of it is that the truss rod does affect the action. The truss rod bows the neck forward (if it's a dual-action truss rod) and backward, and with the wrong amount of bow in the neck, you can never get the action as low as you want it.


Anyway, pics would prolly help determine the best course of action. The only reason you should ever shim the neck is if the saddles are adjusted all the way down and the action is still too high.
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#4
If you have room to adjust the bridge height or saddles then you dont need to mess with the neck angle. If the bridge adjustment was bottomed out and you wanted to go lower then you would mess with the neck pitch.
#5
#6
Quote by Tackleberry
If you have room to adjust the bridge height or saddles then you dont need to mess with the neck angle. If the bridge adjustment was bottomed out and you wanted to go lower then you would mess with the neck pitch.


Check out those pictures i posted... Im pretty sure i cant go any lower without having any buzzing, and i dont want to mess with the truss rod and have a retard curve in it just to get close to the higher frets, I just would like it to be as even as possible from nut to saddle, ya know?
#7
you have to recess/ flush mount the floyd or have a neck angle.... recess the floyd and then the action should be lower around the higher frets. If it buzzes like crazy adjust the neck so its straight (no relief) and raise the action until no string buzz....
#8
Quote by guitarcam123
you have to recess/ flush mount the floyd or have a neck angle.... recess the floyd and then the action should be lower around the higher frets. If it buzzes like crazy adjust the neck so its straight (no relief) and raise the action until no string buzz....


Alright I'll flush mount the floyd, but in the case where it buzzes like a swarm of bees, and the neck is straight as possible(I'm going to get a fret dressing soon so leave the uneven frets cause out of consideration) what would you recommend along the lines of a neck angle adjustment?
#9
Has no one suggested sinking the studs of the bridge in a bit farther so the floyd sits lower down?

Because that would work....
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#10
Well if the FR wont go lower into the body then a little bit of shimming can go a long way. I use automotive feeler gauges. They are pretty cheap for a set and are in precise thicknesses. Cut one down so it will fit between the 2 screws at the heel of the neck. And see how things are.
#11
Try a small shim (less than 1mm) under the bolts furthest from the head.
Last edited by Tempoe at Jan 13, 2009,
#13
Shimming sort of rapes sustain with a pineapple...

If the studs won't go down any more, drill the holes further. Just don't come out the back of the guitar!
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#14
Contact ESP and get their set up specs. I'm guessing here as I have nevet set up an ESP and I don't do FR. Make sure the guitar is in TUNE.

1. Check your neck with a 20 or 24" steel streight edge. Place it in the center of the neck on the 1st and 24th frets. You should have some relief.

2. Capo at the first fret. Press down on the bass E string at the 24th fret. Now measure the releif at the 8th fret. Sould be in the .010 inch range depending on your neck radius. Ask ESP what it should be.

3. Adjust the truss rod for the proper relief. I use automotive feeler gauges. You can get them cheap on eBay or at an auto parts store.

4. Check the action at the 17th fret. Adjust bridge height so that the bass E string is 4/64" above the 17th fret. Use a MACHINESTS 6" steel rule that is accurate. Ditto for the high E string.

If the strings are way high at the end of the neck then it's time to shim the neck. A shim of .25mm will raise the action about 1/32nd of an inch.

Good luck!
Tony Oresteen
W1AJO
Newnan, GA
#15
EXCELLENT!!!

Exactly the information I needed, Thank you everyone for your replies!
I'll post an update when everything is to my liking and let you know what worked.
Thanks again
#16
Quote by Davers440


Well... I put the tremolo down as far as I could but even with full relief, nearly no force needed to turn the truss rod, It still buzzes worse than a machine driven dildo...
So I'm gonna go ahead and throw a shim in there like shown in that link, but is there any suggestions on a better material than folded paper? Or is it the obvious fab my own out of acrylic (or any other hard material as too not kill my sustain too much) in sizes from various mm sizes (.125mm-1mm?)
#17
You use what ever you want for a shim. Just about every Ibanez that I had where shimed with paper/cardboard.
#18
Quote by Davers440
You use what ever you want for a shim. Just about every Ibanez that I had where shimed with paper/cardboard.


Alrighty man, I'll give it a try, but was there a significant difference in tone and sustain that you noticed in using paper?