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#1
im lookin to fix up a chevy nova for a senior project, so i need a website that has alot of information and a site to get all parts i need for it including stuff with the body.
your help is very aprreciated
#2
For bodywork, I have no idea other than go to friends. As for restoring the motor and interior, I'd check out some upholsterers around town, preferably friends of the family, and Summit Racing for the powertrain.
#3
haynes/chiltons

what year are you looking for?
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#4
what does it need i might be able to help? even though only losers who wish they had an actual chevelle drive nova's.
#6
Quote by skaterskagg1
what does it need i might be able to help? even though only losers who wish they had an actual chevelle drive nova's.


and only loser's would actually have a chevelle.
mopar is the way to go.
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#8
Quote by epiless
well im looking at a 74 on craigslist its trunk is rusty and the left rear fender also has rust

link for what im ;ooking at http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/982670110.html


sorry, thought you already had the car.
why that particular year/model?
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#9
also check around junkyards for parts they're cheaper and a pontiac ventura is bascially the same car aside from the grill and a few small things so you can use parts from it too
#10
well its not the year or anything its the fact that its in running condition but could use work that i like about it. so i can work on it and use it at the same time.
plus my volvo is crapping out
#11
Quote by epiless
well its not the year or anything its the fact that its in running condition but could use work that i like about it. so i can work on it and use it at the same time.
plus my volvo is crapping out


go find something old and cheap.
i'm dropping a blown sbc into a '49 f-47.
get something that looks like it wouldn't hold it's own (it'll be cheaper for the overall car) then spend a ****load to drop something crazy under the hood.
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#12
well it sounds like the engine is fine. the car needs body work and i know i could get a 350 crate for about 900 bucks so im more worried about body work. do you know if that rust remover product really works?
#13
actually, it really doesn't.
it really is impossible to reverse rusting.

if it's just surface rust, sand it down. buff it, then prime and paint.
if it's rusting through, cut it out, shape a new piece, then spot it on.

EDIT: where the f*ck are you getting a 350 for that cheap?
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#14
ok thats what i figured. so how hard would it be to do cut the piece out and get a new one in. i live in a backwoods town with a great metal shop progam at my school. im just learning to weld and **** so yeah.
#15
i mean, cut out the old one, and fabricate a new one.
do all your own shaping from a sheet.
for the welds, lots of people use TIG. personally i prefer MIG. it's not as clean, but it's easier and faster, and you can't tell the difference when it's painted over anyway.
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#16
Quote by exiledsoul
and only loser's would actually have a chevelle.
mopar is the way to go.


i'm sorry but now i have to run you over with my chevy truck.

summit raceing or jegs has all the parts you need.

buy a edelbrock crate 350 cu in with a tranny fro about $3000, you will not regret it.

as for bodywork, find someone who knows what they are doing, because you could ruin the car if you just start hacking out rust. because older muscle cars that you find in jusk yards have alot of rust that you have to replace to make it even drivable. lots of custom fabraction is involved.

when you are dealing with american cars, you always use Cubic Inches. not ****ing liters.

EDIT:might help to get an owners manuel of a chevelle.
Last edited by ethan_hanus at Jan 13, 2009,
#17
Quote by ethan_hanus
i'm sorry but now i have to run you over with my chevy truck.

summit raceing or jegs has all the parts you need.

buy a edelbrock crate 350 cu in with a tranny fro about $3000, you will not regret it.

as for bodywork, find someone who knows what they are doing, because you could ruin the car if you just start hacking out rust. because older muscle cars that you find in jusk yards have alot of rust that you have to replace to make it even drivable. lots of custom fabraction is involved.

when you are dealing with american cars, you always use Cubic Inches. not ****ing liters.


are you crazy? **** edelbrock.
if you're going to get a good block, atleast spend the money and get the dart aluminum block.

EDIT: just looked at your profile, ****ing nice on the 302. i had a yellow one.
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#18
okay that doesnt sound to hard. ive only really done stick welding, but we got both tig and mig at my school. we also got this plasma cutter thing thats computer controlled that can run off rhino so probably do **** like that then plus its in the trunk so i dont care if it will look pretty
#20
Quote by epiless
okay that doesnt sound to hard. ive only really done stick welding, but we got both tig and mig at my school. we also got this plasma cutter thing thats computer controlled that can run off rhino so probably do **** like that then plus its in the trunk so i dont care if it will look pretty


definately wouldn't use arc for any of this.
if it's in the trunk it's all good. cover it up with the upholstery.
make sure any metal that's open to the elements is primed and painted.
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#21
Quote by exiledsoul
are you crazy? **** edelbrock.
if you're going to get a good block, atleast spend the money and get the dart aluminum block.

EDIT: just looked at your profile, ****ing nice on the 302. i had a yellow one.


wait wait wait, aluminum block, this is a muscle car right? you'll melt the block so fast.
i never trusted aluminum blocks. if you going to build a muscle car right, iron block all he way.

thanks man, i didn't think anybody would notice that picture.
#22
Quote by epiless
or i could get a good ol rebuilt 350 for 900


bore and stroke? make sure it's a bigger bore and a shorter stroke. it'll give a little less off the get go, but it's top end will be nuts.
make sure it's blown too (now you have to start thinking about what fuel you're going to run and what compression ratio you'll be at), that'll give you the low end that you lost from giving a shorter stroke.
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#23
Quote by ethan_hanus
wait wait wait, aluminum block, this is a muscle car right? you'll melt the block so fast.
i never trusted aluminum blocks. if you going to build a muscle car right, iron block all he way.

thanks man, i didn't think anybody would notice that picture.


no bro, check out dart's blocks.
the sbc comes in aluminum. it's double the price but i can lift the thing myself.
i was talking with teh guys at dart, and they said i wouldn't have a problem even if i was running a roots blower (way more heat than any other kind).

http://www.dartheads.com/products/engine-blocks/chevy-blocks/chevy-small-blocks/chevy-aluminum-small-blocks.html
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#24
Quote by exiledsoul
no bro, check out dart's blocks.
the sbc comes in aluminum. it's double the price but i can lift the thing myself.
i was talking with teh guys at dart, and they said i wouldn't have a problem even if i was running a roots blower (way more heat than any other kind).

http://www.dartheads.com/products/engine-blocks/chevy-blocks/chevy-small-blocks/chevy-aluminum-small-blocks.html


ok, those are some good blocks, but over $5000 for just the block, pricey, the edelbrock if fully assebled, for $2000. also i don't know if the guy who started this therad has enough money to do what we suggesting though, but you can dream, can't ya.
#25
Quote by ethan_hanus
ok, those are some good blocks, but over $5000 for just the block, pricey, the edelbrock if fully assebled, for $2000. also i don't know if the guy who started this therad has enough money to do what we suggesting though, but you can dream, can't ya.


haha, yea quite a bit more than what he's willing to spend.
i can't even afford that. i'm thinking just teh little m will have to do.
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#27
Dude, dont even think about an aluminum block. Ever hear of a Ford Pinto? Anyways me and my uncle have partly resotred a 1971 Chevelle and got most of the parts real cheap from Northern Auto Parts.
#28
Quote by ccase
Dude, dont even think about an aluminum block. Ever hear of a Ford Pinto? Anyways me and my uncle have partly resotred a 1971 Chevelle and got most of the parts real cheap from Northern Auto Parts.


you're an idiot. dart blocks are top on the market. just the block costs more than a complete crate engine from edelbrock.
their aluminum blocks can take the heat from a roots blower. and aluminum blocks are proven to be much stronger than iron ones with much less weight.

maybe do some research/look stuff up before you try and sound bright.
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#29
Quote by skaterskagg1
what does it need i might be able to help? even though only losers who wish they had an actual chevelle drive nova's.

No no
Thats what Chevettes are for.
#30
Quote by exiledsoul
you're an idiot. dart blocks are top on the market. just the block costs more than a complete crate engine from edelbrock.
their aluminum blocks can take the heat from a roots blower. and aluminum blocks are proven to be much stronger than iron ones with much less weight.

maybe do some research/look stuff up before you try and sound bright.


Woa Woa buddy, keep your seat. Just statin my opinion. Odds are the guy doesn't even have the money for a Dart block in the first place. Besides, I just feel more comfortable with a cast iron block because thats what Ive grown up workin on. Just what I think would be best in my case. Maybe tone it down just a tad next time, no need to get all upset over somethin minor.
#31
Quote by ccase
Woa Woa buddy, keep your seat. Just statin my opinion. Odds are the guy doesn't even have the money for a Dart block in the first place. Besides, I just feel more comfortable with a cast iron block because thats what Ive grown up workin on. Just what I think would be best in my case. Maybe tone it down just a tad next time, no need to get all upset over somethin minor.


haha, sorry, that did sound angry re-reading it. no harm meant
i doubt he does have the money for one, but if he drops a cheap engine from a wrecker in, then keeps saving i'd definately advise going for an aluminum block.
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#32
Quote by exiledsoul
haha, sorry, that did sound angry re-reading it. no harm meant
i doubt he does have the money for one, but if he drops a cheap engine from a wrecker in, then keeps saving i'd definately advise going for an aluminum block.


Hey its cool, no problems. Just didnt want a bitchin for no reasons. Anywho, my friend bought a GM factory 305 crate from O'Reilly's and put it in his '72 El Camino and hasnt had a problem with performance or aftermarket add ons. Plus it was real cheap, not sure on the price though.
#33
Quote by ccase
Hey its cool, no problems. Just didnt want a bitchin for no reasons. Anywho, my friend bought a GM factory 305 crate from O'Reilly's and put it in his '72 El Camino and hasnt had a problem with performance or aftermarket add ons. Plus it was real cheap, not sure on the price though.


i did'nt even know you could still buy crate 305s. parts for those things are expensive. my friend bought what he thought was a 350 from some pot smoking redneck black guy for like $300, then they dropped the engine onnto a concrete floor from the truck bed. then they discovered, after it was cleaned and riped apart that it was a 305, so he set it on fire.
#34
haha that redneck sounds like he belongs in my town. but yeah im tryin to keep my budget to 3 grand with this project. im not to worried about the engine. its only got like a 140k on the original block. if i were to replace it i would just buy a rebuilt. this thing isnt exactly meant for all power either. i want something that i could get more than a 1/2 mile to the gallon yknow. i wanna be able to drive this thing and not piss away 50 bucks every time i go somewhere
#35
Quote by epiless
haha that redneck sounds like he belongs in my town. but yeah im tryin to keep my budget to 3 grand with this project. im not to worried about the engine. its only got like a 140k on the original block. if i were to replace it i would just buy a rebuilt. this thing isnt exactly meant for all power either. i want something that i could get more than a 1/2 mile to the gallon yknow. i wanna be able to drive this thing and not piss away 50 bucks every time i go somewhere


3 grand?
you might have some problems doing a restore for that little.
if you only have 3, make it count.

http://www.cragarwheel.com/catalogs_32.html got these on my '78 lil red, except it's not in complete driving condition yet.

get a nice upholsterer.

do your own body work, sandblasting and priming.

get a nice paint job.


keep saving so when you eventually want more power, you'll be able to afford everything. (engine, tranny, suspension etc....)
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#36
Quote by exiledsoul
3 grand?
you might have some problems doing a restore for that little.
if you only have 3, make it count.

http://www.cragarwheel.com/catalogs_32.html got these on my '78 lil red, except it's not in complete driving condition yet.

get a nice upholsterer.

do your own body work, sandblasting and priming.

get a nice paint job.


keep saving so when you eventually want more power, you'll be able to afford everything. (engine, tranny, suspension etc....)



it just wont have nice paint....
paint is the most expensive part of the whole deal, if you have it professionaly done.

sleeper car. cruddy on the outside, badass on the inside.
#37
Quote by ethan_hanus
it just wont have nice paint....
paint is the most expensive part of the whole deal, if you have it professionaly done.

sleeper car. cruddy on the outside, badass on the inside.


fair enough. i don't know actual prices for paint, my friend usually does it for me.
i got lime green with silver flecks in it for about 1500 in the end.
if you say it's the most expensive, I won't be one to argue.
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#38
so you guys know anything about the stock steering system for the 74 nova and do you know what it would take to put disk brakes
#39
Quote by epiless
so you guys know anything about the stock steering system for the 74 nova and do you know what it would take to put disk brakes


i know nothing about novas, but disc brakes should be easy. i plan on putting disc breaks on my 94 chevy silverado, they should have kits for installing those brakes.

i'm going o wyotech to learn this ****. but i got to pass highschool first
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