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#1
NEWLY PAINTED PICS!!!! PAGE 3!!!!


I've had a cheap strat replica guitar sitting around for about a year or two collecting dust, and I want to re-mod it with new electronics, a new paint job, new wiring, new bridge, and the works. I've got a few questions that I'd like to keep in one thread so I can draw back to, and it's the reason I dont want to search for every specific thing (I've done a bit of searching, but it's hard to find exact answers for some of the questions that I have and will come up with in the future.

The main questions I have will be associated with the electronics and hardware.

Firstly, here's a picture of the empty body shell, so when I have questions regarding the best ways to wire it all up, I can get an easy description for me to know where to pass the wires.





I want to set up the Strat with 2 humbuckers. As you can see with the following picture, this is how the pickup cavity is routed.



I was looking at getting EMG Humbuckers to do this, and the active ones will require a 9v battery. Will the back cavity for the springs hold enough space for a single 9v battery, OR for the 18v mod, or, alternatively, could I house them in the space where the middle single coil would go, since I will have just the 2 humbuckers, and the entire space inbetween the two pickups will be hollow?

I was thinking, I could create a support out of small pieces of wood to house each humbucker (one in the bridge, one at the neck), which would leave me with enough space and a safe spot to house the two batteries without them banging into the pickups. I could customize a scratchplate so it hides this, and has only the two holes for each Humbucker.

I will also have to get a stereo jack for these pickups. I understand that much, since a Mono Jack will continuously drain the batteries, if I'm not mistaken.

The 5 switch would be useless for me if I was running only the two single humbuckers, so, would it be suitable for me to get a tri switch instead of the 5 switch? (One switch for the neck humbucker, one for both to run simultaneously, one for the bridge humbucker)?



For now, here is my final question. Would installing a Floyd Rose trem be a possibility for this guitar, or would it require extra routing of the woodwork for it to be installed?

In case you are wondering, the paintjob of this guitar is being re-done. I will be stripping the paint job in a few days time, and will be doing a crackle glaze effect of red cracks through a black base. The fretboard of this guitar is rosewood, I am not 100% sure of the wood of the body, but I will be uploading more pics of the process. I will also be painting the front side of the headstock with the crackle-glaze effect, the sides and back will be left as a natural wood finish.

Any help will be appreciated, and I will be updating this throughout my modifications all the way to the finished product
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
Last edited by Mootallica at Mar 7, 2009,
#2
Dont get EMGs just cause everyone talks about them, get something that sounds nice.
Put the batteries in the electronics cavity (where all the pots and switch goes)
You can buy a 2 humbucker pickguard with 3 holes for volumes and tones. The problem is that it has a slot for a five way switch, although this could be fixed by getting a 3 way switch like on a telecaster
Get a stereo jack = Yes
For EMGs you will need 25k pots instead of the 250k pots which are in there now, im not certain, but im pretty sure the EMGs come with the 25k pots.
For the floyd rose you can either set it up to be floating (so it can do dive bombs and pull ups) or just normal (so it can only do divebombs) To install a Floyd you will have to do a bit of woodworking, filling the holes from the old bridge screws, drilling new holes for the Floyd studs, routing the trem block cavity bigger for more movement, recessing, routing out to make it float. So yes, there is a lot of work to be done. Beware though, with floyds they are very high maintenance. If your getting one get either an Original, Gotoh or Schaller floyd. If you buy a cheap licenced one you will have all sorts of troubles and tuning issues, causing you to have to unlock the nut tune it up set it up again etc etc i know from previous experience. If you are dead set on a Floyd Rose though search "the Ultimate Floyd Rose thread" very good info for everything

Good Luck
#3
I'm looking into paying a fair bit of money on the equipment. I have a friend of mine (who is a guitarist) who knows loads about how to install and set up Floyd Rose trems, and he can help me out, as well as my local guitar store. I may even look into getting them to do all of the wiring for me, the reason is that If they do it I know that it is going to turn out right.

The problem that I can see with this is the pickup routing, I'm not sure how well the Humbuckers will be supported considering they aren't individual slots, rather, one large wide cavity in the body to house all of the electronics. Will this make an impact on how the Humbuckers sit, and also, what brand Humbuckers would you recommend? All in all, the guitar will be used for playing rock/metal.
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#4
i dont know about pickups but i'd say Seymour Duncan..

For the route, the HBs will be fine, the screws in the pickguard will hold them on. You know guitars with single humbucker routes, the HB doesn't even touch the wood, it is not suporting it in anyway its just a smaller route for more tone and sustain...
#5
Oh, I see, that has cleared up LOTS for me. I was looking around a bit earlier today, and I noticed it when i ripped out the cheapo single coils, The deeper routing held in the springs that pushed the pickups into the pickguard. I'm assuming the humbuckers would possibly have this too, because I remember that some people had to pack small amounts of foam underneath to push it up to stop the humbucker tilting, since the 2 screws that held the humbuckers to the pickguard would not create a strong, stable hold, making the humbucker tilt.

Not sure if that made sense lol.

But would the pickup still have springs in the deeper routing so that the pickups are held up into the pickguard?
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#6
The mounting screws thread through the pickguard and into the spring then the pickup. The spring exerts force onto the underside of the pickguard and the top of the pickup's mounting hole as they're screwed together thereby creating stability. The mounting screws therefore may need a deeper route in which to sit (which your guitar has).

I think new EMGs come with everything you need (battery clip and pots etc). You can buy battery holders or just use glue and velcro to prevent the battery from moving.
#7
the pickup springs should be in between the pickguard and the little screw in bit, like this...
#8
That has made it a LOT easier for me to understand, I basically get how they will be sitting now, so that's good to know.

The only problem for me now is finding a pickguard made for the strat with only the the neck and bridge humbucker cut-outs, I've been looking on eBay, but my results have turned up with zilch.

Does anybody know of any good pickguard websites that would specialise in these sorts of things?
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#10
Must've been searching the wrong thing XD.

Thanks for that link, I might just go ahead and order it off of them, it might be the easiest way, I'll just have to get a paintjob done on it, which something I can easily do without a problem, or see what designs there are floating around eBay that I think will fit my build.
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#12
I've just done some searching, and I must say man, I dont think I could've done some of this without you.

The past 2 weeks of questions were all answered in one night.

The HH pickguards, there's the Red Tourtoise shell that will be perfect for my paint job, and the same store also has all black hardware as opposed to chrome (tuning pegs, input jack etc).

I would like to thank you with millions of cookies, +1 million internets and lots of gratitude man XD

Seriously, You've put me in a MUCH better mood haha.
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#13
Make sure to get the pickguard before you paint your guitar. A lot of strat-copy pickguard holes don't line up with aftermarket pickguards. It's easier to fill/drill before you put your nice new finish on it.
#14
So where are my cookies?
Will I be getting a delivery from little red riding hood any time soon?
#15
Quote by bellerophon
Make sure to get the pickguard before you paint your guitar. A lot of strat-copy pickguard holes don't line up with aftermarket pickguards. It's easier to fill/drill before you put your nice new finish on it.


That is actually a REALLY good idea, I didn't think of that, but thanks for mentioning it.

I will probably put the order in for the pickguard tomorrow. I'll have the guitar stripped out ready.

I'm not sure, but I think I might be turned off the idea for the Floyd Rose. It'd be nice, but it just seems to much work and too much of a hassle to have it on there.

Do you think a decent fender bridge do the job? It would be a LOT less of a hassle to install (since it's all cut out), and I could still whammy with it to an extent. What do you think?
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#16
I'll tell you how to get a normal Fender bridge to have the Floyd Rose movement range?
It will require a bit of routing though.

You need a 2 stud bridge. Route out underneath it so the bridge is not touching any part of the body (except through the studs) You will now be able to pull up and dive bomb on a standard fender bridge!
You may wanna invest in locking tuners, graphite or roller nut and good quality saddles (graphite or roller saddles if you wanna go all out)

If you do get a Floyd remember you will need to modify your pickguard for it to fit and the nut to make the locking nut fit. If your not confident/ experienced at any of this, take it to a pro or your friend
#17
I've been looking all over eBay.

To make the colour of the guitar uniform, all of the hardware will be black, and I have found all of that equipment on eBay, shipped from the US, all genuine parts.

The build in total is going to cost about 750 bucks all up in Australian Dollars.

That's a pretty damn good price.

I was looking at purchasing an Ebony/Maple fretboard to replace the Rosewood/Maple neck, do you think this would be a good idea? The only problem is the price of this said neck is 250 bucks Australian, but if it was worth it, I'd invest.
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#18
$250 is a good chunk of change. Can you post a link to the neck in question? Also, take a look at Warmoth.com. There you can make a neck to your exact specifications, or you can go to the showroom and check out all the pre-made necks they have. You can get a very nice neck for $250, and Warmoth necks are licensed by Fender so that's a big plus.
#19
^Not sure but $250 American is >> $250 Australian isn't it?

It's very difficult to tell the quality of something over the net but what I can say is Ebony and Maple are both considered 'bright' woods, not sure how much difference that would make to the tone with them just being in the neck.

If I was in your shoes (for starters I'd be pretty happy living in Australia ) I'd try to get hands on any neck prior to buying it, unless it's the same spec (width, neck contour, fret size etc) as a neck you're happy with and you trust the seller/manufacturer it's very easy to get a neck you don't like and that's where most of your comfort and technique is my 2p anyway.
Last edited by bellerophon at Jan 23, 2009,
#20
you dont have to route for a floyd rose. itl be just like blocking the trem. you wont be able to pull up but you can still dive. you would still have to fill the old 6 holes and drill 2 new ones though. i dont really think a new neck is gona help that much(although i do love ebony fretboards ).
The Best Floyd Rose Is A Setup Floyd Rose!

Gear:
STARcaster Strat
Dean Tradition Acoustic
03 B.C. Rich NJ Warlock Speedloader
Xaviere XV-599
Epi 1984 Explorer
Crate GTD65
Epi Valve Jr
Bogner Alchemist Head
Marshall 1960B
#21
Quote by bellerophon
^Not sure but $250 American is >> $250 Australian isn't it?

It's very difficult to tell the quality of something over the net but what I can say is Ebony and Maple are both considered 'bright' woods, not sure how much difference that would make to the tone with them just being in the neck.

If I was in your shoes (for starters I'd be pretty happy living in Australia ) I'd try to get hands on any neck prior to buying it, unless it's the same spec (width, neck contour, fret size etc) as a neck you're happy with and you trust the seller/manufacturer it's very easy to get a neck you don't like and that's where most of your comfort and technique is my 2p anyway.


Yeah, but there's a page on Warmoth under necks, called neck contours. If you go there it shows what each of there back contours look like compared to a standard contour, so you could base playability off of that. Also ask around the Warmoth forum.
#22
I've ordered all of my stuff besides the Neck and the Pickups.

It has cost me 350 bucks for everything besides those, using trusted buyers, all brand new, off of eBay.

I've decided I'll probably do the wiring myself, if I research how to do it properly. I'm not going for a world speed record to get it done, so, if I take my time, I'm sure I should be able to do it fine (and save myself 100 bucks for the wiring costs).

I'm going to start stripping the paint real soon. I'll get pictures of the process to show you guys. I'll be using a paint stripper to remove the paint, then will sand it down with finer grits until I reach a smooth finish. I will then leave it until all of the parts come in (bought everything from American stores - will take a few weeks to come in), make sure it all fits into place (screw holes etc), once they all match and are ready to go, I'll begin the paint.
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#23
Quote by bellerophon
^Not sure but $250 American is >> $250 Australian isn't it?

no, the Aussie dollar = 65 US cents
#24
63 now
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#26
Nope. That was the rate going when I bought it all today
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#27
that sucks, i got all my stuff of ebay when the dollar was 97 us cents but when i payed for it it was like 70 us cents
#28
That sucks.

I'm stripping the paint, but it's taking a long time. A REALLY long time. 4th coat of stripper and it still hasn't removed the lacquer. It's fkn annoying.
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#29
That's because chemical strippers are worse than underage strippers.

Use sandpaper man, way better.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
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#31
Quote by guitarcam123
no, the Aussie dollar = 65 US cents


That's why I used the 'more than' sign ( > ) twice...

Indicating that $250 USD is much more than $250 AUS.
#32
Update:

Sorry, no pics. Digital camera has died on me.

I gave up using strippers, it was working, but was WAAAY to time consuming. I got my hands on a heat gun, and I swear, this thing is a dream come true.

It's stripping off each layer one at a time, and once I get to the final layer, it's a light scrape, then just sanding it down to get it to a smooth wood finish using different grits of sandpaper, and then finally a hand-held wood buffer which not only gives it a bit of a shine, but adds a bit of extra smoothness and removes some of the sand-paper dust which could effect the paint.

I have completed the entire front of the strip job on the guitar, and 1/3rd of the back so far. It's too late for tonight to continue further, but I plan on having it paint ready tomorrow.

I will not be painting it for a few weeks however, because school is starting soon, and I have lots of Holiday homework to catch up on - plus, I'm waiting for all the hardware to come from America to make sure it fits in place before I paint, so I dont ruin the finish.
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#33
Warmoth necks are great, but expensive.
Gear: Warmoth Soloist / Hondo Acou. / Ibanez AS73

Hardwire TL-2 / Boss GE-7 / Electro Harmonix Small Stone Nano / Boss DD-3 / MXR Smart Gate / Ibanez TS9 / Unknown Tremolo

Bugera V55 / Home Made Cab w/ Celestion Speakers G12M & G12T
#34
I'll have a look at Warmoth necks in a little bit. It depends on the cost. If they are too expensive, I dont think I'll get it, since, I'm trying to minimise spending while not comprimising the look/playability.

The neck I have is not too bad, will I update it in the future? Probably, but for now, I'll be keeping this neck
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#35
^

any pics yet/?
Quote by Deliriumbassist
Antisocial Behaviour Order. A chav's equivalent of GCSEs.
#36
As I said, my camera had died on me, so until I get replacement batteries, I wont be taking more pics.

However, once it's all sanded, I wont be painting it for at least 2-3 weeks, because of other commitments (school, work, masturbation) and so forth. LOL.

I might have pics up tomorrow when I have finished roughly sanding it, and it being close to it's finished product.

As for painting, I'm a little clueless on how I should go about achieving the crackly glaze.
Here's a link to what I'm require (it's in the official painting thread - I'd prefer the answer there to keep it there for others who needs a solution on how to do that).
https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=542726&page=66&pp=20

Thanks again for the help and the interest
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
#37
what do you mean by crackley glaze??????/
Quote by Deliriumbassist
Antisocial Behaviour Order. A chav's equivalent of GCSEs.
#38
Crackle Glazing is achieving this sort of effect:

(I would like to thank "mttsnb" for the inspiration and idea to re-create this effect on my own guitar)

https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1030623&highlight=crackle+glaze



Mine will be Red Cracks with the Black Plates.

EDIT:

I know it's done by applying a base coat, then using a crackle lacquering medium then applying a second coat while the lacquer is only half dried. The lacquer fully dries while the top coat half dries, so it splits and creates cracks over the surface.

I am unsure on what exactly the procedure is, what paints I have to use and such.

Anybody who could go on an indepth explanation, I would be grateful. I've googled and googled, just cant find the right answers.

I'll be going into a paint store within the next few days, and I may even write up a Crackle Glazing guide for UG
Quote by srvguitarrulez
I heard someone say that Fall Out Boy had amazing guitarwork. But, it was a 13 year old girl, so it didn't matter.
Last edited by Mootallica at Jan 24, 2009,
#39
what you are supposed to do to achieve that effect, is you paint the base layer, (red from what i understand) then you let it dry. then you spray on a black paint that shrinks and spray it on, and there you go. i may not be 100% right, but there was an old thread from like a year ago where someone did the same crackle effect, but with gold and red.
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