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#1
Alright buttfaces, I'm sick of seeing a new tone wood thread everyday.

If you have been redirected to this page because you have posted a pointless thread asking "what is teh t0n3 of meh w00oo0oodd (h3h3h3h3 i sa1d wo00ood)" turn on your oven, and place your hand on it at 300 degrees Fahrenheit as a form of self-punishment, then come back and read this.





Please view this webpage to answer any of your stupid questions that have already been answered 1,000 times :
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/NeckWoods.aspx
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Options/BodyWoodOptions.aspx

Also here :

http://www.edroman.com/customshop/wood/main.htm

Since I am the obvious wood kawnesewer of UG, and I know how most wood is structured, and if I don't I can usually find out, ask away on here if your wood idea is a tone-wood, and what it will sound like.

Things to keep in mind :

High density = fat sounding, better lows/mids
High silica content - usually helps bring out the edge of the treble, yet still adds to density, will BLUNT THE **** out of your tools
Open pore structure : usually contributes to lower frequency, pain in the butt to spray finish
Closed pore structure : easier to finish, usually contributes to high frequencies.


Remember also that it is not necessarily what TYPE of wood you have that you should base the tone off of, but the piece of wood itself.

Tight growth rings - contributes to higher frequency
loose growth rings - contributes to lower frequency.


Neck to Body wood tone ratio :
It is rather obvious that tone and sustain come from sheer mass (lean your guitar up against a large wooden cabinet, pluck a string and the sustain will last forever and the EQ will sound different). Therefore my hypothesis would be that the neck does effect tone, but not as much as the big hunk of body wood that you've got strapped to that neck.

If you have any thoughts, please post, or PM them to me and I will add them.

Woods not listed on the warmoth page/obscure woods :

Oak : Same as northern hard ash, difficult to work, heavy, closed grain structure and dense.

Pine : Good tone wood, similiar to basswood and alder, not quite as hard. Requires extra care in machining due to the soft texture. very mid-rangish tone like that of alder/basswood.

Bloodwood (Brazillian) AKA Satine- Red in color, works easily, very dense, very hard. Alot of movement, not good as a single piece neck. Bright tonally

Purple heart : Great wood for neck laminates, turns to a dark brown after time, hard, difficult to work, high silica content and open grain structure. Bright tone

Greenheart/Yellowheart/Redheart : Warp easily, basically useless in the guitar world, difficult to dry, extremely difficult to work.

Jarrah : Tight-grained, red/crimson, some silica. good for neck laminates, bodies. Grows in Asia.

Jatoba : Virtually useless in the guitar world, warps a lot, ruins your tools, huge open pores. Beautiful grain, makes a great laminate top. big fat dull sound.

Zebrawood : works fairly easily, very smelly, warps alot, rough texture, heavy and open grain.

Eucalyptus (various origins) : This tree grows in many rainforests throughout the world, however it is all considered "Eucalyptus". I have seen eucalyptus that is just like mahogany, and I have seen some extremely soft light-weight eucalyptus. Inspect your piece in person before buying.
Last edited by LP Addict at Feb 10, 2009,
#4
Good idea, LP, one suggestion, you might want to give a quick summary of some of the woods not mention at the link to Warmoth, like bloodwood, cherry, whatever, maybe some info on Australian specific woods, I've seen a few questions on them lately.
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#6
So, I want some examples of tonewoods that AREN'T listed at warmoth.
Current Gear:
LTD MH-400 with Gotoh GE1996T (EMG 85/60)
PRS SE Custom 24 (Suhr SSH+/SSV)
Ibanez RG3120 Prestige (Dimarzio Titans)
Squier Vintage Modified 70s Jazz V
Audient iD22 interface
Peavey Revalver 4, UAD Friedman BE100/DS40
Adam S3A monitors
Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#7
What does cherry sound like?
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
"If I said you had a beautiful body, would you hold it against me?"
#10
Thank you LP addict for creating this thread, i had forgot about that page.

By the way im making a neck thru RR with mahognay, walnut and ebony fretboard, so the sound should be pretty balanced!
Black Knight CF-60F Semi-Acoustic.

Black Knight CP200 (Red flamed maple).

Neck-thru 4 string bass.

Acoustic 6 string.
#11


Tonewood thread is a good idea.

Can I just use this opportunity to say,

Korina is amazing.

Lower end grunt, punchy mids, smooth treble. Soon as I can scrape up the money for a partscaster, you can bet it'll be korina.
#12
It may work. Or it might be like the EMG thread, or the Ultimate Wiring thread. Not everyone uses them
#14
Ah thank you for making this. Hopefully people can "catch on" and the useless "is mahogany or particle board better?" threads will come to an end. Also, LP, do you have an account on project guitar and what is your username? It be easier to follow your builds there than here.
Gear

93 Jackson Dinky Professional Reverse
98 Jackson Kelly KE3

Peavey Bandit 112
Custom 2x10 cab w/Bugeras
#16
Quote by LP Addict
no, i dont.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!
Gear

93 Jackson Dinky Professional Reverse
98 Jackson Kelly KE3

Peavey Bandit 112
Custom 2x10 cab w/Bugeras
#17
Hey LP, this is sorta a tone woods question, but is more like a "hey what is this" question.

So you know how those mahogany wings you sold me had some funky birds-eye-like figuring to them? Well I did some research and found out that the only mahogany species that exhibits that type of figuring is Cuban mahogany, so do you think that's what I've got?
#18
its possible, that mahogany was obscure. I picked it up at a lumber yard for 10 dollars and it was so incredibly warped (but 3'' thick). He had no idea where it came from. it is very attractive looking, just wait until you put some finish on it.
#19
So, any idea what Tasmanian Blackwood sounds like?
Current Gear:
LTD MH-400 with Gotoh GE1996T (EMG 85/60)
PRS SE Custom 24 (Suhr SSH+/SSV)
Ibanez RG3120 Prestige (Dimarzio Titans)
Squier Vintage Modified 70s Jazz V
Audient iD22 interface
Peavey Revalver 4, UAD Friedman BE100/DS40
Adam S3A monitors
Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#20
Quote by LP Addict
its possible, that mahogany was obscure. I picked it up at a lumber yard for 10 dollars and it was so incredibly warped (but 3'' thick). He had no idea where it came from. it is very attractive looking, just wait until you put some finish on it.



Agreed. I'd love to find out for sure, 'cause it would be cool to get more of this stuff with as heavy or heavier figuring to us in a one piece body or something like that.
#21
Quote by oneblackened
So, any idea what Tasmanian Blackwood sounds like?



Tasmanian Blackwood has a very similiar grain composition to Koa. Probably produces a very balanced tone, smooth sounding, not poppy.
#22
Quote by lumberjack
Hey LP, this is sorta a tone woods question, but is more like a "hey what is this" question.

So you know how those mahogany wings you sold me had some funky birds-eye-like figuring to them? Well I did some research and found out that the only mahogany species that exhibits that type of figuring is Cuban mahogany, so do you think that's what I've got?


Cuban mahogany is INCREDIBLY expensive. So for the price he got it, I doubt it's cuban. There is some at the lumber place I go to, and it's 2 or 3 times more expensive.
#23
Any tip about where to cut a body shape according to the grain pattern of the rough piece of wood?

I mean, I know **** about tone woods, but I know some structural dynamics. And the frequency response of anything is due to its material (kind of wood in this case) and form. So there should be places in the wood, according to the pattern, where its most convenient to place the bridge, neck joint... And also what to avoid.

Any kind of ancient wisdom about it?
#24
Did you get this idea from my suggestion in your "i'm now a believer" thread?
If so,
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#25
Quote by bazuriya
Any tip about where to cut a body shape according to the grain pattern of the rough piece of wood?

I mean, I know **** about tone woods, but I know some structural dynamics. And the frequency response of anything is due to its material (kind of wood in this case) and form. So there should be places in the wood, according to the pattern, where its most convenient to place the bridge, neck joint... And also what to avoid.

Any kind of ancient wisdom about it?



it really does not matter, wood itself is a smooth flowing structure. if you place a bridge on a better piece of the wood, the wave flow will still hit those less-awesome places and dampen, but we are talking miscroscopic levels. just make sure you know where the endgrain is and work from there, you dont want to make a guitar with the wood grain going horizontally. haha.
#26
Quote by LP Addict
it really does not matter, wood itself is a smooth flowing structure. if you place a bridge on a better piece of the wood, the wave flow will still hit those less-awesome places and dampen, but we are talking miscroscopic levels. just make sure you know where the endgrain is and work from there, you dont want to make a guitar with the wood grain going horizontally. haha.

Yeah, then well... there'll be problems, necks especially.
Current Gear:
LTD MH-400 with Gotoh GE1996T (EMG 85/60)
PRS SE Custom 24 (Suhr SSH+/SSV)
Ibanez RG3120 Prestige (Dimarzio Titans)
Squier Vintage Modified 70s Jazz V
Audient iD22 interface
Peavey Revalver 4, UAD Friedman BE100/DS40
Adam S3A monitors
Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#27
Quote by ohspyro89
Cuban mahogany is INCREDIBLY expensive. So for the price he got it, I doubt it's cuban. There is some at the lumber place I go to, and it's 2 or 3 times more expensive.



Ah-ha, but LP said the dealer didn't know where it came from, thus making it just a hunk of horribly warped mahogany as far as he was concerned. If my research is right the ONLY mahogany species that will exhibit birds eye figure is Cuban, so I'm gunna go with that
#30
Quote by guitarcam123
Kyle, what about pine? I hear its a nice sounding wood just very soft?


Yes, I believe it was used for early strat's and tele's, or is it just tele's? And from what I hear it's a good option for wood on a tight budget.
#31
Awesome, I got loads of Pine timber in my shed
I would use better stuff just can
t find a place to sell wood for a body under $100 (without shipping)
#33
Quote by guitarcam123
Awesome, I got loads of Pine timber in my shed
I would use better stuff just can
t find a place to sell wood for a body under $100 (without shipping)

I would suppose it would be much stronger if you glued many half inch pine strips together.

how do you guys think Californian eucalyptus would fare as a tonewood?
Quote by FatalGear41
I wouldn't call what we have here on the Bass Forum a mentality. It's more like the sharing part of an AA meeting.

Quote by Jason Jillard
HUMANITY WHATS WRONG WITH YOU.


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#34
Quote by guitarcam123
Awesome, I got loads of Pine timber in my shed
I would use better stuff just can
t find a place to sell wood for a body under $100 (without shipping)



This mahogany body blank sold on ebay less than a week ago for $68, shipping included.

This 3 piece mahogany tele body with a flame maple top sold for $69.17, shipping included

This 5 piece basswood-mahogany-swamp ash-mahogany-basswood blank sold for about $60, shipping included


I don't seem to have any trouble diggin up bodies for WAY under $100, even with shipping included...
#36
it will cost that much just to ship it too australia plus customs and the cause the dollars dropped so much it will be like $150 au without customs...
Last edited by guitarcam123 at Jan 23, 2009,
#38
Quote by LP Addict
oh yes, thats right.


Oh and whoever requested Eucalyptus, i just added it to the list

thanks. we're cutting down a tree in my backyard, I wanted to know if it would be good.

so it still is maybe...

hm, any parts to try to go for? heartwood, limbs?
Quote by FatalGear41
I wouldn't call what we have here on the Bass Forum a mentality. It's more like the sharing part of an AA meeting.

Quote by Jason Jillard
HUMANITY WHATS WRONG WITH YOU.


Warwick Fortress>>Acoustic AB50

http://www.myspace.com/rustingbloom
#40
Quote by LP Addict
heartwood is ALWAYS the best as it is the strongest and most prevalent part of the tree.



What about in figured woods, like quilted maple for example, when you want a regular color without any of the darkness of heartwood? Isn't that an exception? Because in advertising I've seen such phrases as "and this bookmatch has no heartwood" or "no heartwood to discolor things here!" etc. etc.