Page 1 of 3
#1
So,
I've been thinking about building a cab of late, a 2x15 in fact.

So from what i hear bass cabs are alot more complicated than guitar cabs, they have "sections" and what not from diagrams i looked up. Is there any were i can find plans for a 2x15 cab? How overall impotant is the layout of the cab? How do different materials affecxt the tone of the cab?

My woodworking skills are good enough i feel to make something like this, and my dad knows a great deal about wood work, so actually building it wont be difficult. Its just the actual structure i want to Know about.

I would also want a tweeter and an adjustable one at that. Does a tweeter take a huge amount of power, im thinking that it woul;d make the overall risistance funny, if i had like two 8 0hm speakers and than a tweeter. Would a horn be more suited to a 2x15 cab.

Were can i buy a decent 15" speaker, it must be able to handle 600 watss, as ill be running my mag into it. Also would this be more suited to the gear building forums.

Thanks
Sam H
Fatgoogle
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#2
Quote by fatgoogle
So,
I've been thinking about building a cab of late, a 2x15 in fact.

So from what i hear bass cabs are alot more complicated than guitar cabs, they have "sections" and what not from diagrams i looked up. Is there any were i can find plans for a 2x15 cab? How overall impotant is the layout of the cab? How do different materials affecxt the tone of the cab?

My woodworking skills are good enough i feel to make something like this, and my dad knows a great deal about wood work, so actually building it wont be difficult. Its just the actual structure i want to Know about.

I would also want a tweeter and an adjustable one at that. Does a tweeter take a huge amount of power, im thinking that it woul;d make the overall risistance funny, if i had like two 8 0hm speakers and than a tweeter. Would a horn be more suited to a 2x15 cab.

Were can i buy a decent 15" speaker, it must be able to handle 600 watss, as ill be running my mag into it. Also would this be more suited to the gear building forums.

Thanks
Sam H
Fatgoogle


http://www.loudspeaker.co.uk/

I only found out about this place recently...and it's a 5 minute walk away from my house. When I last checked they had a wider selection....if I'm right in thinking they had Eminence speakers aswell. I'd phone them for a more detailed stock list.

I guess it's an obvious statement, but eBay is the best place to check. I seen a set of Bose 15" PA Speakers go for £55 last week . It's got me wondering how a pair of good 15" speakers would sound, say some JBLs/Boston Acoustics/Bose. Anybody have any ideas? or tried it? I'm sorry if it seems like i'm hijacking your thread, I thought this would be the best place to put ideas out.

http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showforum=22

This wouldnt be a bad place to post a message either. Many people sell speakers on there.

Last thing - I know it's simple, but I found a lot more hits looking for subwoofer enclosures as a design plan. Sadly, i'm still planning my build at the moment. Still havent got round to the concept of acousticly tuning and cubic capacity yet
#3
Bass cabs aren't any more complex than guitar cabs thought they may be different.

The design considerations are:

Bottom E is 41Hz so you need some decent output here

Bass requires you to shift a lot of air so large cones are needed and/or speakers that have long excursion limits.

Shifting all that air means you need rigid cabinets

Most bass players prefer an accurate sound from their speakers rather than the distorted sound preferred by most guitarists. Design of successful bass cabs tends to be more technically accurate.

Your choice of cabinet type is either a sealed box (infinite baffle) or ported (bass reflex) Infinite baffles are easier to build and design and give a more controlled bass. Bass reflex cabinets give more bass output at the really low frequencies and a higher efficiency levels at the bottom end but at the expense of poorer transients and a lack of protection of the speakers at subsonic frequencies. Bass reflex speakers are more demanding to build and design but most commercial bass speakers are of this type. The effect of a badly designed reflex speaker is that all the bass notes sound similar -one note bass.

Drive units and cabs act as tuned systems and each speaker has to exactly match the cabinet if it is to give it's best. Eminence used to publish a guide to this which may still be around and The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook by Vance Dickason is excellent and available in the UK and the States.

If you want I am happy to do the design work for you as I am planning on writing an article for UG on just this topic. If you are prepared to do all the practical stuff I can offer the terchnical support and do the maths. Hopefully you then have a good speaker and I have a good article. It might be interesting to do this as a blog in these forums so other people can track the progress.

I'll keep an eye on this thread to see what you think.
#4
^ what he said


Just so you know, Sam, it's likely that you won't be saving any money by doing this...keep that in mind.

That said, here's a good place for some unique plans. These are pretty popular on TB.
http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/
Nope, no sig here.
#5
Thanks for the help. Phil i would be very intersted in your help.

From what i read ported is maybe a btter cab in geberally, but more difficult as you have to get evreything lined exactly formit to be worth while. While sealed is more punchieer and easier. But with a decent pair of 15"s sealed as ive read its easier, would be as good as any for a first build.
I dont think having it tuned to 41hz is very important alot of bass cabs arent so i think i should be ok there.


Now how much Mathe is actually needed, im fairly confident on my mathe(Physics and Higher maths for LC) but yet i dont know were it is needed to be appylied.

Thanks again
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#6
The maths is easy really, its just algebra. There are well worked ready reckoner tables as well. I see you're from Wexford so I guess anything available here will be available there.

If you can get sheet materials (plywood, chipboard/particle board) machine cut then building the cab will be pretty easy so don't worry about the complexity of a reflex cabinet. The design is more complicated but the build is not much harder.You are right about the punchier bass from a sealed cabinet though. The best thing to do now is to start seriously listening to commercial speakers so you can decide which designs you like.

You don't need to tune to 41Hz you just need to know that your speakers will get there. here's what to look for. Speakers have a resonant frequency, above this the frequency response is flattish below that it tails off fairly quickly, This is quoted as Fs in the manufacturers specs. For cabs the figure is sometimes given as F3 where the power is 3dB down or even the -6dB or -12dB point. below -12 there isn't much useful bass. The actual frequency response will be the thing that gives the dominant sound characteristic of your speaker.

You seem to be choosing to go for 15 inch speakers which will almost always go low enough. A 2x15 will be big. I just got rid of mine as too big to carry up flights of stairs. For the cost of a couple of pieces of plywood you could build two 15 inch cabs which means two journeys but the same sound. Or you could build a 1x15 now and add a 2x10 or a 4x10 or whatever later.

As for saving money, it depends, cheap speaker cabinets are incredibly priced and you won't be able to match them. They don't sound great though. Better quality cabs soon shoot up in price as the cost of design and manufacture is greater and you can build a good cab at a much better price than buying one new.

The next thing you need to do is choose your drive units. Do you want to know what sort of things to look out for?

If you go for something off ebay or second hand then make sure you can find out the Thiele/Small characteristics or it will be impossible to design the cabinet. The must have figures are called Qts and Vas.
#7
Ya, i think maybe for a first cab a single 1x15 would be better.

Yes i do need help with the drive units, are these part of the actual speaker or are they a seperate componet. I will have a look over ebay and post the specs of speakers i find. From that will you be able to help me with the layout of the cab. I wouls still prefer to make a 2x15 for myself. I dont really have the object of taking it up stairs, and i will get casters for it. Theres only one flight of stairs i will need to get it up and thats from the basement.

If i was going for a 2x15 it would be very close to a design like this,

http://www.samsontech.com/products/productpage.cfm?prodID=1691&brandID=3

This is ported though, so eh would it be hugely complicated to build.
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
Last edited by fatgoogle at Feb 8, 2009,
#8
This sort of thing is easy to build but the cab is fairly compact for a 2x15 meaning that there are probably some fairly serious magnets on the speakers.
#9
Does it have any plus's from having the speakers at an angle to each other, to having them over each other. Do magnets take up alot of roon, doesnt a speaker include the whole bundle, ie a driver magnets and other parts, or are they seperate componets.
How much is the overall specs going to effect something like this?
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#10
If this was a hi-fi speaker then I would say position is important but not really with an instrument speaker.

Yeah the magnet comes attatched. What I was thinking is that the magnet is the most expensive part of the speaker and Hartke have clearly spent a lot on their drive units.

Qts is sometimes called the damping factor others call it a quality factor, either way it is an expression of how well the magnet controls the cone. If you don't have a big magnet controlling the cone then you need a lot of air to do it so that means a bigger cabinet.

My guess would be that this is a really tight punchy cabinet with really well controlled bass.
#11
Lets say, maybe two of these, this is just a random search on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/300-watt-RMS-15-CHASSIS-Speaker_W0QQitemZ160219323951QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ConElec_SpeakersPASystems_RL?hash=item160219323951&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1701%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

I dont know exactly what to look for, Of course if these will do the job for the mo, could i upgrade them to something bigger when i have the money. I would also be pushing these quite hard considering my amp is 600 watts, yet i wont be turning it up fuoll.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Replacement-Fane-15-Driver-Tweeters-Speakers-Amp_W0QQitemZ330306321333QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ConElec_SpeakersPASystems_RL?hash=item330306321333&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1701%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Would one of these be better.
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#12
The SkyTronic speaker has a very low sensitivity, that is the sound it produces is less than the other (Fane) speaker this by more than 6dB this means that 600W through this will sound only as loud as 150W through the fane. Having said that it has a cast chassis and a big voice coil which are generally good things

The Fane has very good sensitivity but has a relatively small magnet. I suspect it has a short voice coil and limited excursion but I need to check that on the Fane website. Limited excursion means that loud deep notes will be limited by the speaker,

Wow that's a powerful amp, you will have problems with speaker reliability with that sort of power. there aren't many speakers that will handle that. What make and model is the head?
#13
Quote by fatgoogle
Lets say, maybe two of these, this is just a random search on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/300-watt-RMS-15-CHASSIS-Speaker_W0QQitemZ160219323951QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ConElec_SpeakersPASystems_RL?hash=item160219323951&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1701%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

I dont know exactly what to look for, Of course if these will do the job for the mo, could i upgrade them to something bigger when i have the money. I would also be pushing these quite hard considering my amp is 600 watts, yet i wont be turning it up fuoll.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Replacement-Fane-15-Driver-Tweeters-Speakers-Amp_W0QQitemZ330306321333QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ConElec_SpeakersPASystems_RL?hash=item330306321333&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1701%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Would one of these be better.

Avoid both; the sensitivity of one is a joke and the other is stated to be a PA speaker on a pressed steel chassis.
Regarding your amp at 600 watts; it is always better to have too much power than not enough, you are less likely to send out a clipped (square waves) signal if you have the headroom (power to spare).
A 300 watt speaker will cope far better having a 600 watt drive it as long as it is used sensibly than being driven with a 200 watt amplifier that is being pushed too hard and starting to clip.
Wherer are you?
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#14
Quote by Phil Starr
The Fane has very good sensitivity but has a relatively small magnet. I suspect it has a short voice coil and limited excursion but I need to check that on the Fane website. Limited excursion means that loud deep notes will be limited by the speaker,


Fane went bust a short while ago, Arthur Barnes (Eminence UK) took on Fane and moved production to his factory just north of Wakefield.

They will obviously have to make the Fane speakers at a slightly less price than in the past to be able to compete with their other main line which is Eminence.

I have had both Eminence and Fane units in the past including Neos from both brands, I have not used any Fane speakers since Eminence took over so I'll need to go and see how things are progressing.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#15
I was going to say I expect John Swift will join in. His advice is good and generally he'll be more up to date than me on makes and models.

Try looking at Blue Aran as a source of speakers, they are generally faily good and carry a wide range of drive units.

http://www.bluearan.co.uk

It might be worth a little explanation about cast versus pressed steel chassis on loudspeakers. Sometimes called the basket the chassis is the metal frame that holds the magnet and cone in place. If this distorts even slightly then the voice coil inside the speaker will start to rub against the magnet and the speaker will fail. Cast chassis are much more ridgid so they are more reliable. The other factor is heat loss 600W is like ten domestic light bulbs or half a bar of an electric fire; it gets very hot and your speaker will get very hot, too hot to touch at the extremes. A speaker has to be designed to dissipate the heat and a big lump of aluminium alloy basket helps a lot in this. The only reason to use a pressed chassis is that it is much cheaper.

The matching of speakers and amps is slightly tricky and the advice seems to be conflicting. This is because several factors have to be taken into consideration and the question of who is using the speakers is in my opinion the biggest factor.

Speakers blow either because they exceed their excursion limits or because they overheat. Nearly every speaker we are talking about will be designed not to exceed the excursion limit so here we are really just thinking of heating.

Speakers and amps are rated in RMS watts (or should be). For speakers this is the maximum heat they can disipate over a defined time, you may also get a peak rating which is the point at which they distort like mad because they have reached their mechanical limit.

Short bursts of power won't overheat the speakers it is the average power over longer periods that matters.

Normal music has an average power of less than 30% of the peak power and usually much less and the heat depends upon average power. This means that a PA with an experienced engineer can have a lot of amplifier overhead which limits distortion.

An amplifier running into distortion can produce more power than one producing the pure sine wave used to rate its output. A square wave (maximum distortion) is 1.414 times the rated output. A mad guitarist playing punk/metal can approach this point so needs to over-rate his/her speakers.

Bass is somwhere between these extremes. It depends on how you play and what tone settings you use, how loud you play and how efficient your speakers are. It also depends upon how upset you would feel if your speakers blow. I'm conservative when I give advice to other people. My wife say's I am a misery.

You can't always trust what the manufacturers say.
#16
Ok i will read that pruperly tomorrow when i have time to take it in.

My amps a AShdown mag 600r and i live in Ireland John.

So is their any speakers that you can terll me to just go out and get, im thinking 50-70 for a speaker. Is that too little too much.
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#18
Quote by Phil Starr
I was going to say I expect John Swift will join in. His advice is good and generally he'll be more up to date than me on makes and models.


Foregot to mention that 'Precision Devices' speakers are now produced at the same (Eminence) factory as Fane. I used to field test speakers for Brian McKenzie (ex McKenzie Speakers) and later when Brian set up Precision Devices to supply Turbosound enclosure.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#19
Quote by Mutant Corn
http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?category=Speaker_Components&masthead=Loudspeaker_Drivers&subheadnew=15_Inch_Drivers

Seems like you'd get some decent ones for that.

I found a program that aids in designing speakers, if that's any help to you guys.
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisd


Design software is excellent, regarding the final tuning of the cabs you will still need a Signal Generator and a Frequency Counter for the final tuning this is particularly important when running two cabs so that both are working together to provide the full potential.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#20
Ok lets say i got two of these

http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=EMIBETA15A&product=Eminence_Beta_15_8_ohm&browsemode=category

Will these do the job for the moment. That program is woreking on this computer Corn, so ill have to wait to try it. Also i would like to add a horn, would thias make the overall thing more complicated.

i somehow doubt ill be turning up my amp to full blast anyway, so these speakers would allow me a bit of headroom then. I do like low overdrive, nothing wild, just to grit evreything up abit.

Regarding the horn, of course this will need its own resistyance, so maybe would this take the overall Ohmage? to maybe something like 3.6, im guessing this would be ok in the end. Also whats a decent little horn.

John, Im hoping to use this as a standalone cab, 4 ohms, taking the whole thing. So how important is a tuner for the cab, im guessing i cant use my little hand held thing.

Thanks fopr all the help, im getting a bit closer to understanding all this.

Sam
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#21
Quote by fatgoogle
Ok lets say i got two of these

http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=EMIBETA15A&product=Eminence_Beta_15_8_ohm&browsemode=category

Will these do the job for the moment. That program is woreking on this computer Corn, so ill have to wait to try it. Also i would like to add a horn, would thias make the overall thing more complicated.

i somehow doubt ill be turning up my amp to full blast anyway, so these speakers would allow me a bit of headroom then. I do like low overdrive, nothing wild, just to grit evreything up abit.

Regarding the horn, of course this will need its own resistyance, so maybe would this take the overall Ohmage? to maybe something like 3.6, im guessing this would be ok in the end. Also whats a decent little horn.

John, Im hoping to use this as a standalone cab, 4 ohms, taking the whole thing. So how important is a tuner for the cab, im guessing i cant use my little hand held thing.

Thanks fopr all the help, im getting a bit closer to understanding all this.

Sam
Hi Sam, don't worry about the Horn affecting the impedence as it will be going through a crossover. If you do add a horn just wire from the input socket into the crossover unit whilst keeping the polarity the same as the speaker.
Those speakers will do fine for the time being just remember they've only got 2" voice coils so too much power will fry them.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#22
Hi Sam,
I've just spent a happy half hour looking at websites. and I've got the spec sheets printed off for the majority of the 15's that blue aran do in this price range.

I'm not keen on the beta, it has a small magnet and the quoted efficiency is high because of a midrange frequency hump. With a high Qts and a high Vas it will need a relatively large cabinet. Having said that it will go low and has good excursion limits for this price band.

The Fanes look better value for money and though they are newly back to the market I would imagine they are manufactured to a similar standard to the eminence speakers if they are coming off the same line. In the photo's the chassis looks the same but sprayed a different colour.

The Fane 15-300 has a bigger magnet than the beta (in fact the same as the delta) and the 15-425 has one twice the size which gives a much lower Qts. Vas is much smaller as well enabling us to design a much smaller cabinet. It is the same price as the beta and looks like a real bargain. I like the ribbed cone as well it improves the way the cone flexes and that is reflected in the frequency response.

All of these speakers have steel chassis and both John and I have reservations about these. If you went up to about £80 a speaker then you could afford a choice of cast chassis speakers. Only you can decide if it is worth the extra £60 overall.

As far as tweeter horns go you have two choices. Piezo tweeters are cheap and simple to add. You just wire them in parallel to your speakers and they draw very little current and can be ignored as far as impedance is concerned. They only go down to 3000Hz though and the ultimate quality is limited though I think this is less important in a bass speaker.

The other way to go is to use a conventional tweeter which works on the same principal as a speaker. This is the so called bullet tweeter or a use compression driver and separate horn. You can achieve any quality you like this way from worse than piezo to much much better (and more expensive) look in blue aran for options. If you go this route you will need a crossover unit. This will stop the low frequencies from getting to your tweeter and may stop the high frequencies from reaching your 15's. Crossover design is a whole new debate but most manufacturers will sell a crossover to match their tweeters. A high quality horn/driver and crossover will cost more than one of your 15's.

I've just stuck a couple of piezos in my latest build a single 15 for my bass. I had a box full of odd piezo's and so I tried them without building them in and preferred the sound with them so I ended up building them in. I'll upgrade when I can afford it; if I get round to it.

Oh I had a look at the Celestions but they didn't seem to offer any advantages.

Over to you John
#23
An optimum bass reflex speaker cab for the Fane 15-425 would be about 300litres for two. This is big but workable. for the eminence beta it would be impractical to build anything anywhere near optimal. Sealed cabinets would be smaller.
#24
Ok, from your comments phil, i think i will get the 15-425 for certain, i can only afford one at the mo, but im sure i can borrow some.

My dad says hell buy me a sheet of 3\4 inch plywood, if i know the place hes talking about it will be quiet high quality and a big sheet. I can also get another one if needed. Its about 20.

I was looking at crossovers on blue aran, and is a passive crossover fine. They dont seem too expensive, but if they dramaticaly make the construstion more difficult, i will opt for a piezo tweeter, they look fine for me at the mo, exept that they say they have a power rating, ie most of them are 150 watts will i need a freaking massive tweeter.
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#25
Quote by fatgoogle
Ok, from your comments phil, i think i will get the 15-425 for certain, i can only afford one at the mo, but im sure i can borrow some.

My dad says hell buy me a sheet of 3\4 inch plywood, if i know the place hes talking about it will be quiet high quality and a big sheet. I can also get another one if needed. Its about 20.

I was looking at crossovers on blue aran, and is a passive crossover fine. They dont seem too expensive, but if they dramaticaly make the construstion more difficult, i will opt for a piezo tweeter, they look fine for me at the mo, exept that they say they have a power rating, ie most of them are 150 watts will i need a freaking massive tweeter.

A Decent woodyard will cut for you from a cutting list that you've prepared using a vertical radial arm saw, I have a decent saw but in the past I only paid £0.50 per cut which saved around 2 hours work plus the problems of attempting to cut accurately.
The crossover for a tweeter is only a High Pass Filter, the 15" will just run at full range with no detriment, if you do use Piezo tweeter a resistor in line will suffice.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#26
So a passive crossover filter, and a 5inch driver, will that do the joc, and then i just wire it in parrellel, with the speakers from the output.

so to clarify,
http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=FANSOV15-425&product=Fane_Sovereign_15-425_15!dquote!_425w_EIA_8_ohm&browsemode=category x2

http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=LKDHP5K&product=Link_Dynamics_High_Pass_Filter_5KHz&browsemode=category

or

http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=LKDHP6K&product=Link_Dynamics_High_Pass_Filter_6KHz&browsemode=category

and then this

so in th end is a tweeter or high freq driver better to use, for me. I dont mind which, well the esiest one would be nicer. Hope im not asking the same question over.

Also phil, im quite happy to use the other, fane speakers, if they provide a smaller cab.

Thanks
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#27
This si getting more comlicated the more i look at it, ok i think i just want an ordinary twttern for the mo, maybe could i put in an off switch, are a variable risistor, to control the rate, without a crossover unit, or is one of those needed. Also can i use a piezo tweeter with a crossover unit, rather than getting a high freq horn.

Thanks.
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#28
Quote by fatgoogle
So a passive crossover filter, and a 5inch driver, will that do the joc, and then i just wire it in parrellel, with the speakers from the output.

To some degree I prefer an actual driver as opposed to a tweeter as the voice coils are more robust, you would be able to use the 1.6khz crossover quite comortably
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#29
On tyhat note john, what kind of driver, theres all kinds, like compression drivers, and HiFi drivers, and line array drivers, and then just plain drivers
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#30
Quote by fatgoogle
On tyhat note john, what kind of driver, theres all kinds, like compression drivers, and HiFi drivers, and line array drivers, and then just plain drivers
Just a bog standard 5" or 6" cone driver, the Emimence Alpha 6 goes from 110hz up to 8khz.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#31
Ok, and just to clarify, it doesnt matter if it can only take like 150 watts etc, it will work fine. And that crossovber unit will do the job.

Thanks Sam


EDIt: i mean like 40-50 watts
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
Last edited by fatgoogle at Feb 10, 2009,
#32
Hi this could be the longest thread ever. I love the idea of a 6" 'tweeter to add a little fizz to the sound.

As soon as you filter out the bass there will be a lot less power going to this little speaker. If you cross over at 1.6kHz then I would think roughly 10% of the power will be getting through. I don't know if anyone's published anything relevant to this.


Could Sam get away with just a reversible electrolytic capacitor do you think John? They are cheap enough that he could fiddle around swapping values.

Sam one of the parts of the crossover is a capacitor. Capacitors will let high frequencies through but not the lows.

I'll try to work out some dimensions for you tomorrow if you asre ready.
#33
Quote by Phil Starr
Hi this could be the longest thread ever. I love the idea of a 6" 'tweeter to add a little fizz to the sound.

As soon as you filter out the bass there will be a lot less power going to this little speaker. If you cross over at 1.6kHz then I would think roughly 10% of the power will be getting through. I don't know if anyone's published anything relevant to this.


Could Sam get away with just a reversible electrolytic capacitor do you think John? They are cheap enough that he could fiddle around swapping values.

Sam one of the parts of the crossover is a capacitor. Capacitors will let high frequencies through but not the lows.

I'll try to work out some dimensions for you tomorrow if you asre ready.


Quite a few companys just stuck a reversable capacitor on the horn, I've done it quite a few times when I didn't have a complete crossover unit available including my current PA speakers.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#34
So, can we agree that a 6" driver will be my high freq, i dont mind experimenting on my part so caps are all in.

I have thought, for wiring up the inside of the cab, what wire\cable should i use, balanced, unbalanced sort of thing. Or does bog standard wire do the job.

so two of these
http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=FANSOV15-425&product=Fane_Sovereign_15-425_15!dquote!_425w_EIA_8_ohm&browsemode=category

and (6" driver)
http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=FANSOV6-100&product=Fane_Sovereign_6-100_6!stop!5!dquote!_100w_EIA_8_ohm&browsemode=category

(output)
http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=CONNL4MP&product=Neutrik_NL4MP_4-pole_Speakon_Universal_Panel_Socket&browsemode=category

Some handles and what not. Wheels, vinyl, etc.

So now its basically measurments and this horn. Is there any thing else i need to think of. Impotant details.

Hmm, now to buy evreything.
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#35
Would it be possible for me to plonk a variable reisitor in the horn circuit or would this take away from evreything.

Maybe this thread could be a reference for other people wanting to build cabs, its got me asking stupid questions and two knowledagable people answering it.
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#36
Quote by fatgoogle
Would it be possible for me to plonk a variable reisitor in the horn circuit or would this take away from evreything.

Maybe this thread could be a reference for other people wanting to build cabs, its got me asking stupid questions and two knowledagable people answering it.
Yes but not just any old variable resistor, VRs are usualy for controling signal not power, a bog standard VR would just burn out
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#37
Um so what would you suggest, and any idea on the type of wire/cable.
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#38
Quote by fatgoogle
Um so what would you suggest, and any idea on the type of wire/cable.

You can buy Crossover Units with a VR built in, some of which come complete on an input panel

Look up the Eminence site.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#39
Ok, so from all this, can we go back to the reversable capacitor part. i dont think im quite ready for crossovers. So what do i find one with a high enogh rating to cut out the lower frequencies.
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#40
Quote by fatgoogle
Maybe this thread could be a reference for other people wanting to build cabs, its got me asking stupid questions and two knowledagable people answering it.


I've been catching up on this thread everytime I sign on. I'm in the same situation as yourself, although you know A LOT more than I do already. So, keep the questions and answers flowing. I'm probably gonna print this thread off actually.

My silly question is this ; I would like to have a tweeter but one that could be switched on and off, but I wouldnt want the tweeter to be in the cab itself. Is it possible to create a 'tweeter box', then I could simply velcro/sit ontop of my 15" cab and somehow plug it in? How would that be for wiring? Or is it in truth, too much hassle for something that won't really bother me?

Thanks.

PS - You don't mind me asking this question in your thread, FatGoogle?
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