#1
Just figured I'd dump pictures in here as I progress, here is how it sits now. I went with a mild carve on the top since it's my first build, carved the horns etc, then made a forearm bevel (not visible in the pictures but it goes down about 5mm, also the carves are more dramatic in person, probably will show up in pictures better after I dye it). Today I'll route the pickup cavities and neck pocket, then finish sanding and hopefully start the two part dying process. Body is a 7.5" strip of Mahogony coupled with 3" soft maple wings, top is bookmatched quilted maple.

Anyway, pictures:

#2
Looks great so far


Is the top glued down? because in the 2nd picture where you have carved some fret access there looks to be a gap between the top and the body?




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#3
More pics with better lighting, and of the whole body and back for us to ogle? What are you plans as far as specs go?
#4
Great job so far however id be tempted to go to town on the lower horn to really get the PRS carve going on it. In fact if it were me I'd just go the whole hog and do the lot i dont see the point in half measures.
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#8
I can't stand double cuts like this, but I appreciate how good it looks so far, and that's some really nice maple. I like how the quilting gives a gentle shimmer, instead of being too pronounced like you see on too many guitars, IMHO.
#9
Quote by lumberjack
More pics with better lighting, and of the whole body and back for us to ogle? What are you plans as far as specs go?

I will soon. Specs I have the two humbuckers purchased (Seymour Duncan 59 Reissue and DiMarzio F-Something Evolution), combo bridge/tail, gold hardware with PRS style head, dark red dye.

Quote by Absent Mind
Looks great so far


Is the top glued down? because in the 2nd picture where you have carved some fret access there looks to be a gap between the top and the body?

Yeah, I discovered there is a little maybe 0.25-0.5mm gap right there, nowhere else along the joint though. I'll slap some filler in it and it will disappear.

Quote by halikus
Great job so far however id be tempted to go to town on the lower horn to really get the PRS carve going on it. In fact if it were me I'd just go the whole hog and do the lot i dont see the point in half measures.

Thanks! Yes, today during calculus I decided to carry the style of carving I did on the horns all the way around.

Quote by -MintSauce-
I can't stand double cuts like this, but I appreciate how good it looks so far, and that's some really nice maple. I like how the quilting gives a gentle shimmer, instead of being too pronounced like you see on too many guitars, IMHO.

You prefer what, single cuts like a Les Paul?
#12
that looks fantastic, good luck with this build, that wood looks really nice too, what color are you planning to use?

EDIT: I just saw that you said you were using dark red, sounds sweet.
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Last edited by funkymonkz at Feb 13, 2009,
#13
Quote by -MintSauce-
I can't stand double cuts like this, but I appreciate how good it looks so far, and that's some really nice maple. I like how the quilting gives a gentle shimmer, instead of being too pronounced like you see on too many guitars, IMHO.






I'm stunned, I thought the PRS double cut was universally appealing until now.
#14
Quote by -MintSauce-
or something subtle
Says the guy currently building a flying V




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#15
Thanks guys, I'm really surprised/pleased with how well it's coming out.

Today I routed the pickup cavities, and most of the neck cavity. I'm going to wait until i have a neck to do the fine stuff on that. I also filled that crack with some maple colored wood filler. I also tested some dyes on the extra quilted maple I had. The two part black then sand then red dye looked AWESOME while it was wet and then dry it was kind of purple? I let the black dry for 24+ hours, so I'm thinking it was just because of the amount of red ("burnt sienna") I put on all at once, I'll try again with wiping it on a little at a time.
#16
Hey what should I do for the finish on top of the dye?

I was going to go with several coats of Tung oil, but my cousin thinks that will wear off too quickly. Shellac? Urethane? I don't want to go with the standard nitro cellulose or whatever the ultra-shiny stuff is called, I just want to have a nice finish that will make the grain pop.
#17
Quote by My Porsche
Hey what should I do for the finish on top of the dye?

I was going to go with several coats of Tung oil, but my cousin thinks that will wear off too quickly. Shellac? Urethane? I don't want to go with the standard nitro cellulose or whatever the ultra-shiny stuff is called, I just want to have a nice finish that will make the grain pop.



nitro cellulose will REALLY make the grain pop if done correctly..id personally just stick with that mate.
#18
Quote by My Porsche
Hey what should I do for the finish on top of the dye?

I was going to go with several coats of Tung oil, but my cousin thinks that will wear off too quickly. Shellac? Urethane? I don't want to go with the standard nitro cellulose or whatever the ultra-shiny stuff is called, I just want to have a nice finish that will make the grain pop.


lol. im building a carved top prs as well, though you are somewhat further than me. lol. im trying to figure out the same thing. i want shiny as hell though. btw its lookin tight
#19
Quote by godofshred
nitro cellulose will REALLY make the grain pop if done correctly..id personally just stick with that mate.

I dyed a piece of extra quilted maple, I guess I'll just test the oil on that and see how much it pops, because I really would rather not spray anything on this or pay to have it applied. Whether or not oil will provide enough protection is my only concern.

I dyed it really dark clack and then sanded, then dyed dark red and it came out a really cool dark cherry type color. Then, once it was dry it had kind of blended together, like this. Top is with light black, bottom is dark, both are darker in real life. I think I want something in between.

Last edited by My Porsche at Feb 14, 2009,
#20
Quote by My Porsche
I dyed a piece of extra quilted maple, I guess I'll just test the oil on that and see how much it pops, because I really would rather not spray anything on this or pay to have it applied. Whether or not oil will provide enough protection is my only concern.


oil and wax will provide decent protection..but nothing close to that of nitro or poly.
that "wet look" will come easy with nitro and patience
#21
What about a French Polish?

Any I emailed Warmoth, the neck I wanted (birdsey maple with maple fingerboard, prs style headstock) was $173, but now that there's not one in stock it will be $209 to have one built. I don't understand this strategy, if we have one built already, it's one price, but if we build one for you (even though it's a product in our catalog) it's another, higher price.
#22
its if they have made a large amount of them..the cost will be lower due to machining costs etc. due to mass production vs. small batch
if its a one off..its more expensive


french polish, its not bad..but thinner and prone to marks, much more than any hard finish,
personally..id not fight it and go for poly or nitro
trust me, its MUCH MUCH worth it for the little extra effort and can be done by yourself.
#23
Quote by godofshred
its if they have made a large amount of them..the cost will be lower due to machining costs etc. due to mass production vs. small batch
if its a one off..its more expensive


french polish, its not bad..but thinner and prone to marks, much more than any hard finish,
personally..id not fight it and go for poly or nitro
trust me, its MUCH MUCH worth it for the little extra effort and can be done by yourself.

I'm just wary of the quality of anything coming out of an aerosol can...

Yeah I understand the whole supply/demand thing, but it seems like if it's one they've made in large quantities before then the price should be the same, I guess they might retool and make them in batches? Anyway, it's only $36 more. But now the cheapest neck they have in stock is $270 or something. Not even a week ago there were tens to a hundred necks in the $140-200 category.
#24
Aerosol cans are fine, I just used acrylic lacquer from a can and its turned outa pretty good for a first attempt.

The only problem with cans is that its thinned quite alot so you need alot of coats and alot of cans, so its not the cheapest way of doing it, and you need to let it cure for a while to make sure all the thinner is out before sanding.

For example I sprayed in my garage and then brought it into my room to cure and it stunk my room out because it was still curing after it was dry to touch, so let it cure in a room not inhabited by people who want to keep their lungs




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

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Last edited by Absent Mind at Feb 15, 2009,
#25
How hard is wiring? I know how to solder. The shop wants $125 to install all the electronics...
#26
that's rape. Its simple, you can even follow diagrams if it is an EMG or Duncan from their site. I dunno about the others, but I bet you can find one. Also, buy an orange drop capacitor for your pups. you can get them on ebay. It can drastically alter your tone, either bassier or more trebly depending on size and I prefer them greatly
#27
Quote by ESP_Shreder
that's rape. Its simple, you can even follow diagrams if it is an EMG or Duncan from their site. I dunno about the others, but I bet you can find one. Also, buy an orange drop capacitor for your pups. you can get them on ebay. It can drastically alter your tone, either bassier or more trebly depending on size and I prefer them greatly



+1


Wiring up a guitar for $125 is highway robbery. They shouldn't charge more than like $75 max, imo.
#28
You could do it yourself for and only pay for components and solder basically.
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#29
That's exactly what I was thinking, I can understand $75 (which is actually the figure I had in mind going into the store) but $125 (not counting parts) is pretty steep.

I'm actually pretty good with a soldering iron, so the only reason I'm hesitant to wire it myself is hum. What causes it? Poor grounding? Poor shielding?
#31
Quote by My Porsche
That's exactly what I was thinking, I can understand $75 (which is actually the figure I had in mind going into the store) but $125 (not counting parts) is pretty steep.

I'm actually pretty good with a soldering iron, so the only reason I'm hesitant to wire it myself is hum. What causes it? Poor grounding? Poor shielding?



Quote by tjfishrocker
thats the same reason i dont want to wire mine up when it comes. oh well



Take courage dudes! The only way we'll ever get to be confident and experienced in all matters guitar building/modding is by doing them and learning from each-other as a guitar building community!


Here, check out this thread of mine regarding a guitar I couldn't get grounded and shielded properly. I did weeks and weeks of research, learned how to fix the problems from the ground up ( no pun intended ), and compiled all my findings in explanations and links to electronic sources right in the thread:


Click here and fear grounding/shielding no longer!


Dooooo it, just TRY you've got to try or you'll never learn. If they can train Chinese peasants to wire guitars in factories than surely you guys can do it.


Good luck!