#1
I've been working on this one for about a month and a half in woodshop now.
Specs:
Maple body (yes... I know what you are thinking. I'll explain later)
Walnut neck
Rosewood fretboard
2 Humbuckers (super distortion and a cheaper neck pickup)
Tune o matic bridge

Kinda small pics... Click them to enlarge

Here's the neck laminated and ready to go:


The body cut out, I've downsized it a bit since this picture. The picture angle makes the back end look giant.


Parts arrived: medium fretwire, double action truss rod, and the fretboard


The neck, pre inlays. The cut at the end of the fretboard is on purpose, I've had so many people say "What happened?".


The neck, fretboard inlayed and sanded ultra smooth.


Regards to the large maple body and weight problems:
Yes, It is extremely heavy! I've decided to route out 2 sections of the body an inch in from the sides. This would reduce the weight on the rear end of the body, a problem for Explorers (especially maple...). I'll route all the way through on the right side, where I want the control cavity. I'll mount the electronics on a piece of walnut glued to the top of the guitar to cover the route, similar to a regular cavity cover, just not removable. On the back of this route I'll have a removable walnut cavity cover to access controls. On the left side of the body I'll have a slightly larger route not all the way through, with a walnut cover glued on the front again. I think this will look nice on the top.

And about the neck:
I'll fret the neck before cutting it to size. I decided to do it in this order from watching Ormsby's multiscale custom videos! This cuts out the need for support in the neck during fretting. I think it will make the project come along faster. I'll also attach the neck close to the front pickup and extend the neck joint into the pickup cavity, similar to an early SG. I'm going to cut a volute into the back of the neck too, just below the truss adjustment to provide more headstock strength. (Plus, volutes look sexy )

It's almost the weekend, so I won't be working till Monday. Then I will be fretting the neck. I've read about using epoxy as well as hammering the frets for added strength. Anyone have experience? Also, I'm torn between using neck angle or just raising the neck to the height of the bridge. Any suggestions? Thanks for checking out my project!
#2
NICE!

keep postin pics. lookin forward to seeing the final project.


any ideas on particular pickups yet?
#3
A super distortion in the bridge, but because I'm trying to save some money a GFS pickup in the neck. (Possibly one of those new GFS Van Halen wannabe pickups in the neck).
#6
Looks awesome so far


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#10
Looking nice.
Just call me Bobby
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#12
The joint where the headstock meets the rest of the neck with an angled headstock. Most angled headstocks are added this way, rather than carving it all from one piece of wood.
R.I.P. Les Paul, 1915-2009

A man chooses, a slave obeys.
#14
Exactly. Sometimes it just gets called a volute. Never figured out why though.
R.I.P. Les Paul, 1915-2009

A man chooses, a slave obeys.
#15
A volute is added to one-piece necks for strength. It's the bumpy part near the headstock, which strengthens the section where the angle starts. A scarfed headstock is strong enough to not need a volute, but people often sculpted them on anyway, for comfort.

A volute =/= scarf joint.
#16
Mint explains it perfect, I used the volute for added strength to my headstock.
Thanks for the comments guys! Right now I'm working on routing the controls and installing that TOM. Also, making cover plates out of walnut for the routes.
#17
My bad. Thought they were the same thing.

Excellent job on the build, btw. I looooooooooves me some explorer
R.I.P. Les Paul, 1915-2009

A man chooses, a slave obeys.
#20
good job on the neck, but are you going to round the volutes sides over a bit?


And what happened to the end of the fretboard? Why'd you cut it straight? I liked it curved.
#21
you're flattening the joint in the neck from the body to the blank, I'd hope? (whether routing deeper or thinning the blank)
------

Shwiggity.
#22
Quote by deftonesordie
you're flattening the joint in the neck from the body to the blank, I'd hope? (whether routing deeper or thinning the blank)


Im sorry man, I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean that my neck is sitting super high off the body? If thats your concern... yeah. I had to switch to bolt on, so I'm making the frets level with the bridge height. Kinda like Gibson did with the SG for a while.

I haz moar picz!

Here it is mocked up. Notice the walnut piece I'm using to cover up the neck join and add a little originality. (Ill of course make this piece thinner).


And another angle.


Now I have 2 things I need opinions on. Of course I'm going to ultimately go with what I want (duh ) but I'd like opinions from more guitar nerds.

Ok, yeah, ugly neck joint. I accidentally routed it too big. I am now faced with having to bolt on the neck, but thats fine by me. The thing I'm concerned about now is the cosmetic issue (things that noone else will care about, but will piss me off). See how there is a space between the body and the neck? How does this idea sound: cut off the thin piece of maple on the treble side of the body.
If more elaboration is needed, I'll ms paint it. Heres the pic:


My second proposal:
I know I have to route out some of the body so I can reduce the weight of the back end of the guitar. Originally, I was going to do the route on the front and cover it with walnut but the more I look at the top wood of this guitar, the more I want to keep it solid maple. Again, if this is confusing i can ms paint it.

Thanks guys!