#1
i've tried to post on the ultimate thread before, didn't work. so thats why i didn't try this time, before anyone suggests it. im trying to build a grace daddy, with credit to invader jim and runoffgroove.com i'm trying to get a parts list together and im not sure of everything.
these are the diagrams i'm working off of
http://s693.photobucket.com/albums/vv292/blandguitar/?action=view&current=gracedaddy1.gif
http://s693.photobucket.com/albums/vv292/blandguitar/?action=view&current=gracedaddy2.gif
and my list so far:
Switches
2 spdt toggle switches
1 3pdt switch
1 3pdt toggle on/on
Diodes
2 1N914 diode
2 NOS Germanium
1 red LED 3/4 5mm clear tint
Resistors
2 15K metal film
1 1k
Caps

Jacks
1 1/4 stereo
1 1/4 mono
1 2.1 mm 9v
Pots
2 100k linear
1 5k linear
Other
1 9v snap
1 5mm bezel, black
1 medium pad per hole
1 IC not suer which type, it's the right one from the diagram though
Last edited by blandguitar at Mar 4, 2009,
#3
that's what i'm doing. and i've got most of it. but i dont know what types those two different things are. or i wouldn't need the thread. though you are a Godsent jim.
#5
i thought the u was for a cap. so are the other ones polarized then? my old man's kicking me off here. i'll check asap in the A.M. thanks for any help, actually jim, you might be the only help i've gotten on this. except a little on your thread.
#7
thanks jim, and i thought that what the u meant, but it usually has a ittle extended thing on it when i see it. what type of voltage do i get for the caps? and any suggestions on a pcb type? i was thinking bread board, but wasn't sure.
#8
NP caps are usually rated for 50 volts at least. You need caps rated for anything over 9 volts.

The 'u' is a Greek letter. Forget the name, but in maths it means 'micro'.

Breadboard is just for prototyping. It isn't somehting you'd stick into an enclosure. I use pad-per-hole perfboard. 3 bucks a pop at radioshack.

Did you ever edit the pics, btw? Doesn't look like it...
Last edited by Invader Jim at Mar 3, 2009,
#9
i think you said to take one the one, i did that. maybe i confused on what you were asking. i'll update my small bear cart when i get home. this actually isn't going to cost an arm and a leg, i'm pretty glad so far.
#10
the u is supposed to represent the greek letter mu, stands for micro. i think small bear might use an m though, which always confused me. so 2u2 is 2.2 micro farads, 6n8 is 6.8 nanofarads, and anything with a p would be picofarads.
#11
Smallbear generally lists caps as pF, iirc.

TS, I meant take the new pics I gave you and edit them into the OP in place of the ones you have now. I tend to make little mistakes on schems. The new ones are mistake-free...
#13
Quote by Invader Jim
Smallbear generally lists caps as pF, iirc.

TS, I meant take the new pics I gave you and edit them into the OP in place of the ones you have now. I tend to make little mistakes on schems. The new ones are mistake-free...

SBE lists almost nothing in pF. pF is for very small cap values.

I don't see many 47000000pF (47mF) electro caps or 220000pF (22nF) caps.

SBE uses m which is often used interchangeably with µ on the Internet. Like said it is the Greek symbol for micro meaning 10x-6.
#14
pico is 10^-12. you can look here to see other ones. ive never seen anything smaller than femto when talking about capacitors though, and even then those rarely come into play.

Jim, must have been somewhere else that i looked where they marked micro as an m then. i know there was some online place i was looking for caps where they had that.
#16
Quote by jof1029
pico is 10^-12. you can look here to see other ones. ive never seen anything smaller than femto when talking about capacitors though, and even then those rarely come into play.

Jim, must have been somewhere else that i looked where they marked micro as an m then. i know there was some online place i was looking for caps where they had that.

Small Bear (SBE) uses m for micro.
#23
what type of led should i get? im thinking green instead of red, but any specifics i should focus on? i might need wire, but i should have enough, would shielded guitar wire work? will it reduce noise? i know an enclosure does that alot. what does the holder do?

edit: which form of pots should i use? the standard audio, or should i use linear/ reverse log?
Last edited by blandguitar at Mar 3, 2009,
#24
Linear pots, red LED (get a 1k resistor to go with it). Sheilded wire may or may not reduce noise. Idk.

The LED holder is just that. A holder that lets you mount an LED to the box.

Don't forget a battery snap for the 9v.
#25
i was gonna go with wall plug, i dont like to waste a ton of cash on batteries when my dad can pay the electric bill. how do i run both the battery and wall option?
Last edited by blandguitar at Mar 4, 2009,
#29
The input jack is stereo, the output is mono, the power adapter jack has a built-in switch.
I'd go with a red LED. Green ones can cause problems, so I'm told.

Here:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=87- mono jack
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=89- stereo jack
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=93- power adapter jack
Last edited by Invader Jim at Mar 4, 2009,
#31
Quote by Invader Jim
The input jack is stereo, the output is mono, the power adapter jack has a built-in switch.
I'd go with a red LED. Green ones can cause problems, so I'm told.

Here:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=87- mono jack
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=89- stereo jack
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=93- power adapter jack

Are you serious?
#32
That's what you said when someone asked in the wah thread why their wah died after changing the LED.

You said something along the lines of "The green LED may be pulling too much on the transistor" or some shit. I'm going on what I picked up from YOU. Not what I just decided to think up. That's what YOU said.
#36
Quote by Invader Jim
Apparently I can't say a single odd or wrong thing without getting my ass chewed. Just get a green LED. See what happens, 'cause I sure as **** don't know.

Ah Jim dont take it personally.

Its one of those absurd statement though that you often hear in the boutique pedal world, and it bothers me. "Blue LEDs draw more current so their is sag to the sound" Complete BS!

LEDs will not affect the sound at all. Depending which kind you use though they will affect your battery life. Diffused draw more current than water clear high brightness. I always use 5mm Water Clear High Brightness LEDs with a 16K limiting resistor in all my builds.


The only way an LED could affect tone if it was used in the standard TB setup...would be if it was so bright and drawing so much current that your battery was dropping exponentially in its output voltage. So ya it would sound like the battery is dying haha...you know gets kinda mushy and soft. Maybe some oscillation.

EDIT: Jim, sorry again. If you could find where I said that green LED pulling statement that would be appriceted. I might have been talking about using the diode as a clipper. I might have wrote it wrong or you may have interpreted wrong...maybe??
Last edited by kurtlives91 at Mar 4, 2009,
#37
Quote by Invader Jim
The 'u' is a Greek letter. Forget the name, but in maths it means 'micro'.


Tis be a 'mu"

pronounced myoooooooo
------

Shwiggity.
#39
Ok, chris. Looking now.

edit: Well, I didn't find it. I looked through that whole thread, then I googled it. Nothing.

All I remember is that some guy swapped out the red indicator LED for a green one and the wah died. You suggested thet the new LED was affecticng the circuit in some negative way.
Last edited by Invader Jim at Mar 4, 2009,