#1
i was set on doing a one piece neck, for a set neck project. is this fine? its my first build.

otherwise its going to be gay as hell trying to get laminates out of this board. probably not possible
#3
Quote by Invader Jim
Go for it. Lots of people do this. I might for my build.


k man. dont want to get pumped up and hit a crash cymbal and have it snap.

so good. one piece necks are still damn strong as laminated. they look sexy too. and so do you.


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#5
And mostly if they're perfectly quartersawn
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

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Stupid name.
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#6
Wood glued to gether with wood glue is stronger than pure wood, hence, laminated necks are stronger AND more stable

Quote by tjfishrocker
k man. dont want to get pumped up and hit a crash cymbal and have it snap.
It bugs me when people say really extreme things like 'your going to snap your neck'

you get a neck blank and try and snap it, you'll be there a while.


Any way a one peice will probably be fine.




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#7
yeah, one piece is fine. it is strong enough, even tho lams look cooler

the neck on my gibson is one piece, and im pretty sure fender uses one piece, too. and people are still playing 50s-60s strats and LPs.
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#8
Quote by Absent Mind

It bugs me when people say really extreme things like 'your going to snap your neck'

you get a neck blank and try and snap it, you'll be there a while.



lol. k man. i dont think i need to try. haha.

although a purple heart stripe on the back of the neck and guitar would look cool...
#9
Purple heart is a beautiful wood that I think doesn't get as much credit as it should. Good luck!
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#12
Quote by tjfishrocker
i was set on doing a one piece neck, for a set neck project. is this fine? its my first build.

otherwise its going to be gay as hell trying to get laminates out of this board. probably not possible

Wooooah duude. I just had the craziest idea maaaan.

What if you laminated the top... with alternating wood... for every fret. Nahmean?
#13
Quote by Comrade Curry
You should do a veneer neck, take a bunch of thin veneers and glue them together, should be super strong, my 50 year old 12 string acoustic has this.


if i was going to do laminates and veneers, i would so do the ORMSBY thing with the ebony pintriping. gah thats awesome.


Quote by dz_alias
Wooooah duude. I just had the craziest idea maaaan.

What if you laminated the top... with alternating wood... for every fret. Nahmean?


ugly? lol. too busy me thinks. unless you get the right woods. i cant picture it very well.
Last edited by tjfishrocker at Mar 5, 2009,
#14
lol someone used gibson as a reason why one piece necks are just as strong....

(gibson necks fail a whole lot..)

but yea, one piece is fine. i'd try laminate if you could though.
#16
Quote by Absent Mind
Wood glued to gether with wood glue is stronger than pure wood, hence, laminated necks are stronger AND more stable

It bugs me when people say really extreme things like 'your going to snap your neck'

you get a neck blank and try and snap it, you'll be there a while.


Any way a one peice will probably be fine.

true. But the real worry is the headstock. BE SURE TO SCARF JOINT.
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#17
Quote by sesstreets
Purple heart is a beautiful wood that I think doesn't get as much credit as it should. Good luck!

If you love Purpleheart you'll love the build I'm planning

To TS, one piece necks are fine as long as you scarf it. They're usually fine even if you don't, but it wont be as strong.
#18
the whole "laminate vs solid" debate is trumped when you laminate too much... as glue isn't a good tone wood. I would, in all honesty, suggest laminating it at 3-5 pieces going across the neck with a scarfed neck to ensure maximum strength and durability. You can also laminate different woods together to get a sort of "hybrid" sound out of the guitar.

Going with a solid wood neck isn't a bad thing, just make sure you build it tough and make sure your headstock is reinforced, as that angle likes to snap. I can tell you though, I've had angled headstocks for a LONG time and they've taken some pretty brutal beatings and never snapped, same goes for a lot of friends of mine.

edit: nevermind, I did have one break: My Hondo II had a one piece neck... it kind'a cracked and over time got worse, and I reset the headstock and it never gave me another trouble. But, yeah.... I did have one break.
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Last edited by Thomme at Mar 7, 2009,
#19
If the wood you are using is either flat sawn or quarter cut then twisting isn't likely to be a problem so you can go ahead and make a one pc neck. I actually prefer them. If the lumber you are using is somewhere between frat sawn and quarter cut then you need to laminate.
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#20
^ If its riff sawn I wouldnt touch it in the first place

Quote by oneblackened
true. But the real worry is the headstock. BE SURE TO SCARF JOINT.
You can always use volutes.




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#21
^with proper grain orientation riff sawn wood can make a more stable laminated neck than flat or quarter sawn.
Attachments:
necks.jpg
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#22
Well I'm no expert but rift sawn moves more than either flat or quarter sawn as a general rule, as it is moving in both horizontal and vertical planes, so even if you arrange it like that so they are pulling against each other, they are still more likely to move than laminates of quartsawn? I would think? I dunno but hey.


on a different note, do you still have those pots in your sig? Do you have long shaft pots?




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#23
you dont need to scarf a neck if you are using 3-5 pieces of wood. the glue makes the headstock a good bit stronger, and you only ever really hear about GIBSON headstocks breaking... why? because they use 17 degrees instead of 13-15 like everyone else.
#24
Quote by Absent Mind
Well I'm no expert but rift sawn moves more than either flat or quarter sawn as a general rule, as it is moving in both horizontal and vertical planes, so even if you arrange it like that so they are pulling against each other, they are still more likely to move than laminates of quartsawn? I would think? I dunno but hey.


on a different note, do you still have those pots in your sig? Do you have long shaft pots?


Aligning the wood like I pictured will protect against twisting because the two halves will try and warp in opposite directions which means they ultimately end up balancing each other out. There will be less strength against the pull of the strings (just like you said) but that decrease in strenght is minimal and will be compensated for when you adjust the truss rod. At the end of the day a twisted neck is difficult and expensive to fix when a bowed neck is typically very cheap and easy to fix. Even in cases of extreme bowing which require fretboard removal, it's still easier to fix a bow than to straighten a twist.

And Yes I still have the pots (hundreds actually) but no I don't have any long shaft pots. The 500K pots have a longer shaft than a typical short shaft pot but it's shorter than a long shaft pot. They seem to fit alright in most flat top LP's but don't fit in some carved top LP's.
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#26
Quote by tjfishrocker
lol. k what is quarter sawn? and the others



The they direction of the wood grain. If you are looking at the end of the board and the top is cut at a 90 degree angle to the end grain then it's quarter cut. If the top of the board is parallel with the end grain then the board is flat sawn. If the end grain is somewhere between parallel and 90 degrees with the top of the board then it's rift sawn.
Attachments:
grain.jpg
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#27
Quote by CorduroyEW
The they direction of the wood grain. If you are looking at the end of the board and the top is cut at a 90 degree angle to the end grain then it's quarter cut. If the top of the board is parallel with the end grain then the board is flat sawn. If the end grain is somewhere between parallel and 90 degrees with the top of the board then it's rift sawn.


sweet man. thanks for clearin that up
#28
so how long do the neck blanks need to be to do a scarf joint? for the prs mccarty. 25"

is 30 inches long enough.
#29
Should be, take a look at your plans and find out.




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

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Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#30
Quote by Absent Mind
Should be, take a look at your plans and find out.


yeah. i just didnt know how much to add for doing the scarf joint. i guess nothing, wouldnt it be? lol. ok.

one last question before i order all of my ****.

is there a cheap way to make nut slots deeper? ive been looking for a pre slotted nut in a 12" radius. can only find 16". i need the graphtech one from stewmac. so i will have to radius it down, so the slots wont be anywhere near deep enough