#1
I want to get a Traynor YCV50Blue. 50w of tube is loud. Very loud. I'm gonna need an attenuator.
THD HotPlates are over-priced, and even Weber attenuators are expensive (not necessarily over-priced though). So I figured I'd build one, of course. It seems like there are a few types of attenuators... ones that use resistors, some use actual speaker magnets without the cone, some actually turn down the wattage of the amp (?), some resist the signal to the speaker.... I'm kinda overwhelmed.
1.) Someone explain the basic differences between these, please.
2.) What are advantages/disadvantages of each type?
3.) Which would be cheapest to build?

http://www.webervst.com/lpad.htm
I like the way that one looks, because it's extremely simple. 4.) Opinions on this?

Any help is appreciated,
BD
Schecter Gryphon; Ibanez AEG20E
Peavey Rage 158 ; TRAYNOR YCS50
EHX Big Muff Pi; Dunlop CryBaby GCB-95 (modded); MXR M-108 10-band; DigiTech JamMan Looper
#2
Quote by BD 425
1.) Someone explain the basic differences between these, please.
you rang?

resistors convert the power directly into heat. simple. but they also affect the damping factor as well as the interaction between the speaker and the amp. in short, they affect the tone.

cone-less voice-coil and magnet assemblies help preserve some of the interaction. but they only attenuate the signal to a real speaker slightly. not very effective as an attenuator. sometimes used as a load on an amp, if you're re-amping.

power scaling in an amplifier is great. it limits the max power an amp can produce by lowering the voltage of the power supply. you can overdrive an amp without having all the volume. but it is more complicated than just plug and play. serious modification have to be made to the amp. and your warranty is now voided.


Quote by BD 425
2.) What are advantages/disadvantages of each type?
resistive attenuators are easy but have a large effect on the tone.

coneless drivers are more useful for re-amping, not as attenuators. AND you need to put them in an enclosure that blocks the sound, else they sound tinny.

power scaling is great but expensive and complicated.


Quote by BD 425
3.) Which would be cheapest to build?
resistive attenuators, are by far the cheapest.


Quote by BD 425
http://www.webervst.com/lpad.htm
I like the way that one looks, because it's extremely simple. 4.) Opinions on this?
as long as you don't need much attenuation, it will probably sound okay. but if the series resistance is large and the parallel resistance is small (lots of attenuation) it will have a huge effect on your tone.
Meadows
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#3
^Haha, as a matter of fact, I was hoping you'd answer. I think the L-Pad one is what I will build, if anything. Thanks a ton.

/Thread.
Schecter Gryphon; Ibanez AEG20E
Peavey Rage 158 ; TRAYNOR YCS50
EHX Big Muff Pi; Dunlop CryBaby GCB-95 (modded); MXR M-108 10-band; DigiTech JamMan Looper