#1
I've had my six-string Schecter for a couple of months now, and I don't have to tell you that it's just as neck-heavy as I imagined. While I can deal with it, I was wondering if, for the sake of comfort, there's a way to balance out the weight more so it's not trying to tip so much. I'm pretty strong, so overall weight isn't an issue for me even for my neck.

Mostly, I'm pretty **** at math and the like, so how much weight would you recommend? It's a Stiletto, and these are the specs:

* 6 Bolt-on neck
* 35" scale
* Mahogany body w/ figured maple top
* Multi-laminate maple & walnut neck
* Rosewood fingerboard
* 24 jumbo frets
* Offset Dot inlays
* EMG HZ pickups1
* Vol/Blend/Active 2-Band EQ (w/ selectable treble frequencies)
* S-Tek bridge
* Schecter tuners
* Black hardware

Any advice in regards to coping with the weight issues are much appreciated. I'm already in love with the thing, but the neck is a pain in the arse!
"Optimism," said Cacambo, "what is that?"
"Alas!" replied Candide, "it is the obstinacy of maintaining that everything is best when it is worst."
#2
From a physics standpoint you could even out the center of mass precisely using a center of mass calculation but you would need to know the individual weight of the neck and the body. From a practical standpoint usually its impossible to add enough mass to center out the com without deforming the body (usually hallowing out a cavity then filling with lead). Its always best to relocate the strap pin at the butt. You move it to the treble side to make the neck heavier and toward the bass side to make it lighter. Also, buying a wider strap will always help.
#3
Im not sure what you have in mind, but it may be worth trying a thicker/wider strap that supports the bass neck better, thereby preventing tip, or by tightening the strap so that the bass can move around less. Similarly, adding a strap button in a different place could be beneficial. That seems less expensive than replacing the bridge or using a headless neck or something.
#4
I never, ever, EVER understood how the hell a thick strap helps neck dive at all. The axis on which there is more width is completely perpendicular to the axis on which the neck is diving. It makes no sense.

You can always get a grippy strap - that way, all the force is on the grippy part of the strap and the bass feels a thousand times heavier than it really is. But it won't dive. You're just moving the pain from your forearm to your shoulder.

But, you could also move the strap button from the aforementioned "butt end" to the "corner" of the bottom of the bass. Here's the idea - take a long ruler and place one tip at the top strap button. Then, have the ruler perpendicular to the strings. Where the other end touches the body is a good place to but the strap button.

If you don't know what I mean, look at a lot of Spector NS-2s, etc, and some Warwick Thumb NTs.
Quote by Cody_Grey102
I was looking at a used Warwick Vampyre LTD 5'er for about $200. I went home to grab my wallet and came back and some jerk with an epic beard got it already..
#6
^dead link, wanna repost?

EDIT: Save the pic and photobucket it - you have to be signed into the Warwick forum to get it.
Quote by Cody_Grey102
I was looking at a used Warwick Vampyre LTD 5'er for about $200. I went home to grab my wallet and came back and some jerk with an epic beard got it already..
Last edited by thefitz at Mar 9, 2009,
#7
What happened on the warwick forums was that, basicvally, get a longer screw for your strap buton, get a piece of thin tube that fits around the screw, put your button on one end and then thread the screw through the tube and into the hole on your bass. this moves the centre of axis, thus putting less push down on the headstock or somthing.

EDIT: that picture is different from the one i had the idea about.
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