#1
Don't all hate on me for asking this but I don't think it was in the ultimate floyd set up thread.

I want to put a floyd in a guitar with basic fender stratocaster measurements. Thats the easy part and not what I need help with. What I need to know is will I be able save money by switching the floyd from my RR model. I was thinking I would be able to and just get a different locking nut as the width is different, but it occurred to me that it probably wouldn't work as the bridge itself would be spaced for the wider neck.

And since I am guessing that it won't work could somebody recommend to me a decent priced company that produces floyds that aren't to expensive while at the same time not just pieces of ****.

Thanks
#2
THAT IS THE SILLIEST IDEA EVER!
use a metal guitar for metal and use a strat for smashing on stage
#3
No, you misunderstood me. Its not a strat, its strat-like in that it has measurements such as nut width the same. Basically I need to know if a Jackson licensed floyd rose will fit in a strat.

And metal isn't the only genre that uses them either, not forgetting to mention that a strat set up right is a pretty killer metal axe.
#4
Quote by satcre3
THAT IS THE SILLIEST IDEA EVER!
use a metal guitar for metal and use a strat for smashing on stage


I really hope this is sarcasm because it might be the dumbest guitar related thing I've heard.
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No means maybe
Last edited by pilgrimevan at Mar 12, 2009,
#5
forgive me who is that person in the pic

and there is only one way to find out if it fits (: take if off and try
#6
Quote by satcre3
forgive me who is that person in the pic

If you're going to troll, try not to be so obvious

TS, I believe the locking nut you'll need is an R3, but look up the width of the neck just to be sure. You can always trade it with someone who has what you need (PM me as I may have some laying about). I advise you get one for top mounted screws. FR's are all spaced the same, it's just the nut you need to worry about. Also, you'll need a drill with a 1/2" chuck in order to drill the trem post holes.
#8
Thanks for helping. I can imagine that just the nut is going be cheaper than the entire system.
#9
you just need to get it fitted at a guitar shop
unless you can router
#10
Well I can use a router, but i'm not planning on using it as a floating trem. I just want to be able to dive bomb without going horribly out of tune.
#11
i mean for the locking nut at the top of the guitar
all necks are different
so therefore they need to be fitted at a guitar centre or whatever you americans call it >< so
#12
Quote by 1010
Well I can use a router, but i'm not planning on using it as a floating trem. I just want to be able to dive bomb without going horribly out of tune.
You're still going to have to do some fairly heavy body modification. Even if you use it as a non-recessed vibrato, you can't just drop a Floyd (or Floyd copy) into the routing and post mountings of a traditional Fender vibrato bridge. The space for the sustain block needs to be wider for a Floyd (even non-recessed) than it is for a Fender and the mounting posts for each bridge are in completely different positions.

Also for a non-recessed Floyd, the neck will have to be reattached with a shim so it is then angled, or you could have the neck pocket modified to be permanently angled but that's basically the same thing just a little more secure.
To avoid that you would have to go for a fully recessed Floyd, which would require full bridge re-routing.



tl;dr: your plan won't work. Either way you've got to do some heavy routing.



If you want a more stable vibrato, get a quality Fender American Standard or Gotoh Wilkinson vibrato bridge (may still need to have the mounting post position moved but you wouldn't have to route huge chunks of wood out the body or shim the neck at least), have an LSR roller nut installed, and get some good locking tuners. Of course then you still couldn't really dive bomb, but you wouldn't have tuning issues either even if you did take the vibrato down it's full range.
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#13
IMO, it would be easiest for you to sand out the guitars tremolo cavity, fill it with an epoxy (lemme try to find the stuff that is recommended), route out a hole to fit a Floyd, add the locking nut, and you're gold.

Of course it's not as simple as that, none of it will be, but starting fresh is easier than trying to fit something that just doesnt.
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#14
I've done a Floyd conversion on a Strat. The widening of the route part is generally not true with a licensed trem like the TS's. And you don't need to route the nut; a dremel, some files, and sand paper will get you through if you are patient. The secret is to get it level and not go too far into the wood before the first fret. One thing you will need to likely do is use a Dremel to clear just enough room for the springs not to catch. The blocks on the JT580 though will require slightly more taken off, so for this part you will need a router.

Shims take 10 seconds to make and are trial and error. I can do a shim change in maybe 5 minutes, it's not hard at all as it just involves loosening the neck enough to position it. Probably the one part of the job that is NOT an exact science or needs to be precise.

It's not technically wrong to refill, but it makes things convoluted imo, and the hard part of routing is done for you as it is. I will say I highly suggest drilling out and putting dowels into the holes where the 6 point screws went to be on the safe side. Mesa, I think you're thinking of Bondo, which is fiberglass based and commonly used for automotive repairs. It's convenient for for pickup and small control routes because it doesn't take long to dry and dries pretty evenly, making it ideal for deep routes. For a trem cavity though, I would just put some kind of hardwood in; it's generally less of a pain of the ass due to having both ends of what you are filling open.

Also, FWIW, GC will not do jobs like this. Only a work shop with a specialized luthier will often do them. GC does setups and minor stuff, not major projects (I say that and it can be done in an afternoon)