Poll: What wood to use???
Poll Options
View poll results: What wood to use???
Particle Board
1 4%
Pine
14 58%
Poplar
4 17%
Oak
3 13%
Maple
5 21%
Voters: 24.
#1
I'm going to build an amp cab, as you already know. but I'm not sure what kind of wood to use. It's gonna be a 4 12" speaker full stack. I'm going to get around 30 watt speakers cause there's gonna be 8 of em'. I play blues based hard rock to heavy Metal and I'm gonna use a Line 6HD 150 amp head.

so my big question is what kind of wood to use?
#3
Do Not Use Particle Board.
Gear: Warmoth Soloist / Hondo Acou. / Ibanez AS73

Hardwire TL-2 / Boss GE-7 / Electro Harmonix Small Stone Nano / Boss DD-3 / MXR Smart Gate / Ibanez TS9 / Unknown Tremolo

Bugera V55 / Home Made Cab w/ Celestion Speakers G12M & G12T
#4
I used 19mm ply on mine.
Sounds beautiful.
I have 2 Celestion Vintage 30's. Brilliant!
peter

Last edited by GOD on the 7th day
#5
Google Does NOT Solve Everything

Free Telephone Service FTW >_>


Anyways...
Plywood is definitely the best way to go.
Jesus loves you.
#7
the more plys, the sturdier it's gonna be. If you plan on jump-kicking it on stage, you may want more than 4 plys
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A man chooses, a slave obeys.
#8
i would of thought oak was the best, but it'll cost you, just go with pine
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#9
Quote by xander307
i would of thought oak was the best, but it'll cost you, just go with pine


Go with ply. Ply is stronger. Just do your self a favor and don't cheap out on the ply. Get the stuff that is one side good. It is a pain having to go though and fill the voids in the cheep stuff. If you want to leave the cab natural looking, go with a solid one. Pine will look good but is a relatively weak material. You could use a maple if you could get it and don't mind the extra cost.

Edit, yes oak is strong, but a full oak stack will weigh a ton.
#10
what about the front of the cab, the part that holds the speakers should that be like particle board or something different??
#12
Build the entire cab out of Baltic Birch Plywood. It's the wood most major manufacturers use and is very strong and resonates well.
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MIA Fender Stratocaster
Jackson Kelly KE3
Ibanez Universe
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#13
ok so based on all the info i've received im gonna make it out of pine and ill use plywood for the front and back. when it's done i'll post pics(hope you all paitent
#14
Quote by funkymonkz
Build the entire cab out of Baltic Birch Plywood. It's the wood most major manufacturers use and is very strong and resonates well.


+1.
i used to be a mod, then i took an arrow in the knee.
#15
Dont use natural timbers for speaker cabinets of this size. natural timbers are too unstable and will tend to twist,warp or split. Man made boards are far superior for this application and they have generally better sonic qualities too.

your options are plywood, chipboard or medium density fibreboard (MDF) Sorry these are the English/UK names particleboard in the uk is the stuff builders use for shuttering concrete but I think it is the US name for chipboard.

Ply is the usual choice for manufacturers as it is stable, moisture resistant and the toughest material against knocks. It is graded according to the number of plys and the glue used and the nature of the outside layers. Use 7 or more plys and at least 18mm 3/4in thick. exterior or marine graded (waterproof glue is used to stick the plys together) and with at least one A or B graded surface to make it easy to finish

Chipboard is great for cabinets but you need to get the right type. being heavier than ply it is less resonant which makes for a less coloured sound. Look for a board that is manufactured with a high level of compression and which is either graded or three layer with a fine chip on the outside for toughness and finishing and a coarse layer on the inside for strength. It won't be as tough as ply

MDF is basically a highly compressed cardboard, it is easy to work very sonically dead sounding and between ply and chip in terms of toughness. It is heavier than either. the real problem comes if it gets wet as it swells easily. It is the material of choice for hi-fi speakers but I don't know of any mainstream guitar speakers that are manufactured with this material.

I use marine ply though I used chipboard for years without problems, it is cheaper but I prefer prefer ply because it is lighter and tougher.
#16
well i'm not quite sure what kind of plywood the school has i think its 5 ply 3/4 in how would that be i'm just gonna use a simple butt joint but with like 6 or 7 screws per side and glue in the joints so it gonna weight alot. well i think the winner by write in is plywood
#17
3/4 is perfect butt joints are good but screw and glue in a 1" batten at each joint. At least one panel must be removeable so you can make adjustments, seal this with a foam draughproofing strip. Seal all your other joints with mastic (caulk). Use loads of glue. Dont forget to recess the baffle (front panel) to allow for some speaker protection.
#18
ok what does that mean you being far to techinal for me to understand so in lamence terms can you put that in lamace terms.
#19
A batten is just a strip of wood about 1inch square in this case. You can't screw into the end of 3/4 in ply without splitting it so you screw and glue a strip of wood along the edge of one piece of the ply (let's say the top edge of the sides) and then when you stick the top on you srew the batten to the top so the screws go into the batten. The batten gives you something solid to screw to and helps hold the whole thing square. it also makes your cabinet more solid.

Mastic or caulk is just the stuff builders use to seal around gaps. It comes in tubes and is squeezed out with a 'gun' which will cost a couple of dollars. Any hardware store should be able to show you how to use it. It comes out like toothpaste but sets into a rubbery solid. Whilst it is soft you can force it into any gaps you accidentally leave.

You will almost certainly make minor mistakes and if you have your cab a long time it might need fixing at some time, so don't stick all six panels together. You need at least one panel that can be removed by undoing the screws. I usually glue upthe sides and the top and bottom of the cabinet and srew the front and back panels to battens that I've fixed to run round inside the cabinet. They still need to be airtight so I use self adhesive strips of foam that are sold by hardware stores to seal windows and doors.

There are plenty of articles on the internet which will show you how to do all this and there are even some quite good bits in the stickies in these forums.

If I ever get time to put up some illustrations I will write up some tips for UG.

Good luck