#1
My SS Crate Powerblock is having problems.

Whenever I turn it on it flicks on for a sec and then goes off. A few secs later it flicks on for a sec and turns off. It does this repeatedly.

My question, what should I replace first? I tried a different power cord and a I tried different outlets to no avail. I'm thinking it's the electrolytic caps, but I don't wanna replace those to find that's not the problem.

Any help whatsoever is appreciated
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#2
hrm....problem w/ SS amps, they do crap like that (BTW, I have a powerblock too, great for what it's worth...)

First thing, can you find a schematic for it?
Quote by kcdakrt
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#3
I found a block schematic, I don't think that's any good though. I really don't want to junk it, especially since I could (probably) replace anything in there, I just don't know what to replace.
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#4
I think your thoughts regarding the electrolytics are probably good, as well as any coupling caps that could be messing up stage biases.

Pop the thing open, see what's there. Sometime it jumps out at you.
Quote by kcdakrt
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#5
Yeah, I opened it up, it's cramped. Well, I guess I might as well get to taken her apart.
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#6
Quote by Kevin Saale
Yeah, I opened it up, it's cramped. Well, I guess I might as well get to taken her apart.


Yeah...check the electrolytics...they'd be the first to go if it overheated inside...and it probably did, mine gets "warm".
Quote by kcdakrt
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#7
Everything seems intact, although a lot of components aren't familiar to me so they may well be bad. Either way, nothing catastrophic seems to have happened inside.
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#8
Kay.

Next step would be to resolder the entire board. As in, heat up, remelt and reflow, every solder joint in the amp. A lot of intermittant failures are things like that...a cracked solder joint that opens/closes.

If it's lead-free solder...good luck to you (do NOT get me started at the stupidity of the EU w/ RoHS and lead free solders). Either way, try to reflow everything and see if that fixes it.
Quote by kcdakrt
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#9
Quote by DLrocket89
If it's lead-free solder...good luck to you (do NOT get me started at the stupidity of the EU w/ RoHS and lead free solders). Either way, try to reflow everything and see if that fixes it.


What, you don't like to lick a random circuit board every now and then? I gave old PCI video cards to my kids when they were teething - worked like a charm.
#10
Quote by DLrocket89
Kay.

Next step would be to resolder the entire board. As in, heat up, remelt and reflow, every solder joint in the amp. A lot of intermittant failures are things like that...a cracked solder joint that opens/closes.

If it's lead-free solder...good luck to you (do NOT get me started at the stupidity of the EU w/ RoHS and lead free solders). Either way, try to reflow everything and see if that fixes it.



It looks like lead-free....this is gonna suck.
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#11
Is't the thing like $20?
Buy a new one.
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#12
Quote by Kevin Saale
It looks like lead-free....this is gonna suck.


make sure your soldering iron is hotter than normal.
Quote by kcdakrt
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#13
this thing exactly happened to my powerblock too. the knob on the back was turned up to high, and when it was cold it seemed to have this problem more. i turned the knob on the back down, and it stopped.
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