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#1
So, I've started this thread once before on UG, but originally I posted it to the wrong place (Guitar Gear & Accessories) and apparently I didn't use the correct format for a build thread...so that thread died a premature death. In frustration, I left the site...only to return a week later. My intention was only to share some ideas for a fun, low-budget pedalboard build, so I'm back to "do thangs the right way" this time.

What follows is pretty much my original build thread from mid March. Hope you find it useful.
"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
#2
Well, after several weeks of hard work, I've finally finished my first pedalboard and I thought it was time to start a build thread to show what I've been up to in my spare time. I decided to base my first DIY pedalboard on the well-known IKEA GORM design (who comes up with these names?). So I headed out to the local IKEA in Renton, WA and paid $4.00 for a GORM shelf and another $4.00 for two side boards. The dimensions of this thing are just slightly larger than a PedalTrain Jr.

Here's the initial layout I had in mind. I used some paper cutouts for pedals I hadn't bought yet.



A friend of mine at work used his table saw to cut the side boards to size.



I marked the location for some screw holes so I could use the original iron bolts to hold this thing together.



I decided to go with a bright orange Rustoleum spray paint finish for this pedalboard to match it up with my Orange Tiny Terror and my orange-Tolex covered Avatar 1x12 cab. It's an acquired taste, but I like it. I pre-sprayed the areas where the iron bolts would go (along with 4 thick washers) so I could install these pieces when I glued everything together, and then mask off the black bolts when it was time to start painting.



On one of the rare sunny weekend days in Seattle, I sprayed the top and back of the board before the rain came. The semi-circular cutouts you see are for the pancake-shaped 1/4" connectors I decided to use for cabling. I made three cutouts, with the one at the top extra deep because of the narrower gap at the top of the board.



You can see the masked-off bolts in this photo.



Here's my first test fitting after applying the paint. It’s starting to look pretty good…AND ORANGE!



Then it started raining and I couldn’t finish painting the underside for nearly a week. This left me with a lot of time on my hands. After playing with the pedals on the board, it looked like the bottom board was flexing a little so I decided to add a stabilizing board to the center of the pedalboard. Here I'm attaching the fitted stabilizer to the underside of the board with some Gorilla glue and some giant bolts and a jar of jelly for some weight.

Adding this stabilizer introduced a major design flaw (Design Flaw #1) into my board. Can you see what the problem is? If not, you'll find out later.



Finally! The sun peaked out long enough one morning for me to quickly spray paint the underside. I needed a 30 minute window, and Mother Nature gave me 35 minutes before the rain started up again.



Later that night, I decided to get started putting Velcro on all my pedals. Here I am applying the plasticky/hook side to the bottom of my pedals. But then...I started thinking: "Hummm, should I be using the hook side or the soft/fuzzy side for the pedals?" I started a thread on HCEF and was told that the hook side is the conventional side. But then some folks said that with the soft side, I'd be able to take my pedals off and use them on tables or floors without scratching things up. Also, all my BOSS pedals had really bumpy bottoms and the soft Velcro side seemed like it would fit better.

So, reluctantly I ripped off all the hook side Velcro from my pedals (Design Flaw #2) and started over.

"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
#3
After that, I put the hook side Velcro on to the board. Even though this is the unconventional way to do it, I was happy that I changed my mind. Cutting the Velcro was really easy on my rubber cutting board using a metal ruler marked off with both inches and centimeters (I tried to make this a ‘Metric Build&rsquo. I bought a box of 100 single-edge razor blades and I made sure to use new blades frequently.



After that, it was time for another test fitting. Now my pedals can defy gravity if I turn the board upside down.



So: back to Design Flaw #1. Remember those cutouts I made early on? I did this because of the pancake style connectors I decided to use. Here are some close-ups of me showing how to insert a connector through the cutouts.





The flaw was that with the stabilizing board running down the center of the board, I wouldn't be able to get my speaker cables over to the right side of the board! Doohh! What an idiot! So, I had to cut out some squares from the Velcro on the right side, break out my Dremel tool again, and make new cutouts. Then I had to do some touch up repainting and cut out 3 Velcro patches. This set me back a day.



Next it was time to break out the soldering iron and start making cables. I practiced using a scrap piece of 12" cabling; after 45 minutes I figured out the right way to solder the cabling to the thin connectors. I also had to use my hand drill to slightly enlarge the hole for the center cable. Each cable was cut to minimal length and the connectors were attached with the cables making a natural twist relative to the pedals they would be attached to.



After making the cables, it was time to install some rubber feet. I looked high and low for some black rubber feet, but the only ones I could find that were rugged and tall enough were white (and they hung out over the edge a centimeter on each side). Oh well, function over form in this case.



"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
#4
Then, it was time to attach a power strip. I used a combination of Velcro and some black plastic tie downs. These fit nicely through the holes on the end piece of wood. I used a 1 Spot 9-volt adapter for every pedal except for my Electro Harmonix Deluxe Memory Man which requires a 24-volt adapter. To make that adapter fit, I had to drive out to Frys in Renton, WA and buy a $3.49 Power Strip Liberator. Finally, I attached the EXH adapter with Velcro and a tie down of its own.
Then I spent some time carefully folding and wrapping all of the loose wires which I secured with some black electrical tape.







Yay! I'm done. Here's a shot of my completed pedalboard in its new home -- just in front of the rosewood liquor cabinet that sits between my SG Classic and my rack of guitars and my cab and Tiny Terror. I also spared no expense on cabling and made new thicker cables for my guitars and for connecting the pedalboard to the amp. (I was amazed how much better they sounded compared to the Monster cables I was using previously.)



And here's an action shot of me doing my thang with my right foot while playing my Fender Jaguar Classic Player Special HH in the foreground!

This was a great project that took much longer than it needed to, and on which I spent more than I should have (although I still came in much lower than the $100 cost of a PedalTrain Jr. plus $170 for a Voodoo Labs Pedal Power +). I figure I spent under $70. But I also kept myself out of trouble for a few weeks.

Next up: I'm planning to build a couple of clone pedals from "General Guitar Gadgets". I'll start things off with a ProCo RAT clone! I figure there's room for at least 3 new pedals on my board!

"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
#5
Looks sick man!
Alvarez dreadnought
Gibson SG
EC-1000
Homemade Strat (seymour duncan classic stack p/ups)
Vox Tonelab (original desktop model) with full board footswitch
Vox AD50
Avatar V30 4x12 cab
#6
Quote by gwitersnamps
Looks sick man!


Thanks! Here's the latest upgrade from last week. You'll note that the BOSS FS-5U footswitch has been replaced by a vintage ProCo RAT from 1981!

This required some major reshuffling of cables and connectors underneath the board, so now the power cable is coming out of the right side...which is a good thing since I'm a Republican!

"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
#9
Nice. I never knew IKEA would be good for anything.

P.S Did you mean to spray paint a penis? O_o
Gibson 1972 SG Pro T-Top Bridge, P90 Neck
Dean DBD T ML
Jackson JS30RR EMGs 85-81
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76 Mann Les Paul Custom
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Randall RG-180 DX
Line6 Spider III HD75 Head - Behringer 412
Saving for a Marshall JCM 800.
#11
Quote by BGSM
Good work on the pedal-board, terrible work on being republican.


I consider myself more of an Old School Conservative. I guess that makes me a Libertarian.

Quote by Roast Beef
Your foot looks so cartoonish on your DS1

Nice build. Total cost?


Well, the wood cost $8 + maybe another $8 for gas to drive to IKEA. 15 feet of velcro was $30, but I didn't use it all. The white rubber feet were about $4.50. The washers were $0.40, and the spray paint cost $3.97. The zip ties were a couple of bucks. So probably less than $45 for the raw materials.

I also bought other re-usable supplies like razor blades, Dremel tool sanding drums, sand paper, etc. No matter how you slice it, it was still a low-budget (and metric!) build.

Quote by Rtard_GWARRIOR
Nice. I never knew IKEA would be good for anything.

P.S Did you mean to spray paint a penis? O_o


You know: I didn't realize that till someone pointed it out! If you look closely, you'll see that there are 4 washers where the "penis" is. But, now that you mention it, it does look like a penis belonging to someone with one skinny leg and one really fat leg!
"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
#12
Quote by 667
Your foot looks like a paw.
Good job, looks sharp.
You should see if you can fit one of these under there...

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/DCBrick/




Hey, you should at least be happy that I was wearing a reasonably clean sock!

Regarding the brick, that (or a PP2) would have made life a bit easier for me under the Gorm.
"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
#13
I have a major problem with this thread, and I probably will report you. My complaint is you haven't built me one.

Nice work.
#14
Quote by Chetbango
I have a major problem with this thread, and I probably will report you. My complaint is you haven't built me one.

Nice work.


Hey, I'm open to build offers. Seriously. I'm considering just making a few more, painting 'em random colors, and then putting them up for sale on eBay to see what the market has to say. But if you'd like something particular, PM me and maybe we can work something out.
"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
#15
Quote by Armchair Bronco
Hey, I'm open to build offers. Seriously. I'm considering just making a few more, painting 'em random colors, and then putting them up for sale on eBay to see what the market has to say. But if you'd like something particular, PM me and maybe we can work something out.

good idea
WONGA!
Quote by StringAssassin
I would be angry too if there were turds on my head.
#17
this thing is really cool^^
i wish i had more (good) pedals so there would be a point to build/buy one!
#18
Thats a really sweet pedal board, I think I'm going to use your template to build my own once I have a few more pedals in my collection.
The Rig
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MXR GT-OD
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Boss DD-3
#19
it looks like orange made a peal board. do you have an orange am? it would go good with it
Oh Hey look at my signature
#20
Sweet pedalboard.

Hooray for republicans! Well actually, hooray for conservatives. Republicans are just the lesser of two evils, IMO. I'm Libertarian as well.
Schecter Gryphon; Ibanez AEG20E
Peavey Rage 158 ; TRAYNOR YCS50
EHX Big Muff Pi; Dunlop CryBaby GCB-95 (modded); MXR M-108 10-band; DigiTech JamMan Looper
#22
Quote by BlackDog55
it looks like orange made a pedal board. do you have an orange amp? it would go good with it


Here was the inspiration for my color choice. On the day I took this picture, I was swapping in new tubes (or as the British like to call 'em: "valves"), so my Tiny Terror was naked. Folks who are easily offended should avert their eyes.

"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
#23
i like the orange, nice touch
"If you're looking for me,
you better check under the sea,
because that's where you'll find me..."
#24
it's great to have this back! i really think this is an awesome idea - and cheap as hell as well! once i get some more pedals, i'll be all over this one


Whodicted



Quote by stevo_epi_SG_wo
france is laaaaame


Recognized by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2009
#25
Quote by hendriko
it's great to have this back! i really think this is an awesome idea - and cheap as hell as well! once i get some more pedals, i'll be all over this one



Have I mentioned that I'm already thinking about Version 2.0 of this pedal? I've got some ideas bouncing around for a way to make this pedal fully adjustable *and* to get rid of the velcro completely! It'll add to the overall cost and require a more complicated build, but still keep this pedalboard competitively priced WRT PedalTrain-type boards.

Stay tuned...
"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
Last edited by Armchair Bronco at Mar 28, 2009,
#26
^that's interesting - any more insight

Whodicted



Quote by stevo_epi_SG_wo
france is laaaaame


Recognized by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2009
#27
Quote by hendriko
^that's interesting - any more insight


Well, I'll give you a clue:

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/

I've been buying stuff from this guy for years for building my radio controlled gliders.
"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
#28
alright, i can see where you're heading - sounds cool!

Whodicted



Quote by stevo_epi_SG_wo
france is laaaaame


Recognized by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2009
#29
Sweet
Tim.

You have entered the Twilight Zone
Beyond this world strange things are known
Use this key, unlock the door
See what your fate might have in store
Come explore your dreams' creation
Enter this world of imagination
#30
Quote by Armchair Bronco
Well, I'll give you a clue:

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/

I've been buying stuff from this guy for years for building my radio controlled gliders.

Would magnets mess with signal through the pedals at all?
Alvarez dreadnought
Gibson SG
EC-1000
Homemade Strat (seymour duncan classic stack p/ups)
Vox Tonelab (original desktop model) with full board footswitch
Vox AD50
Avatar V30 4x12 cab
#31
Quote by gwitersnamps
Would magnets mess with signal through the pedals at all?


Not at all. As I said, I use them on all my radio controlled gliders and on my smaller foam-based airplanes. I use them mostly to secure the wings to the fuselage so that if I have a rough landing, the wings just pop off. These magnets are kept very close to the receiver, and they don't affect it at all. When I started writing about how cool these magnets were for RC airplanes & gliders, I got a lot of folks asking the same question!

There are a couple of reasons why small magnets won't affect pedals or your signal. First of all, magnets have a static field -- that is, the field is unchanging. The noise that you hear in a lot of pedals is due to 60 hertz hum, and that's a dynamic field that fluctuates and changes over time. A magnet doesn't do this.

Second, the strength of a magnetic field adheres to Isaac Newton's Inverse Square Law. This fundamental law of natures states that the strength of a magnetic field is inversely proportional to the square of the distance from the source of the field. So if you move even a tiny distance away from the magnet, the strength of the magnetic field is hugely reduced. As long as you're not putting your magnets right on top of the PCB, you should be OK.
"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
#32
Dude, this pedalboard is ****ing rad. Tomorrow I'm gonna start making a pedalboard based of this one, I might post a thread about it.
#33
I saw gorm...and i thought mark gormley...then i saw pedalboard...and was disappointed...however, seeing the final product made me happy....not as happy as a power stance though.......
I've bought, sold, and traded more gear than I care to admit.
#34
Ok, There are no IKEA stores where I live but I would really love to make one of these pedalboards. I've tried searching on the home depot/lowes website but I don't know what to search for because neither of them sell "Gorm" shelves. So, if anybody could help me out without having to order off the internet than it would be greatly appreciated.
#36
He's completely right about issacs law here. Take a magnet and put 3 pieces of paper between it and something that the magnet can attract, like a paperclip, you can try as you might but those 3 sheets of paper (less than half a mm) will stop the power.
Pain is an illusion.
Schecter Hellraiser C-1 w/ Seymour Duncan JB/Jazz Combo
Pitchblack | Bad Horsie 2 | DS-1 | BF-2 | ISP Decimator | DD6
YouTube Channel
#37
Quote by Armchair Bronco
Not at all. As I said, I use them on all my radio controlled gliders and on my smaller foam-based airplanes. I use them mostly to secure the wings to the fuselage so that if I have a rough landing, the wings just pop off. These magnets are kept very close to the receiver, and they don't affect it at all. When I started writing about how cool these magnets were for RC airplanes & gliders, I got a lot of folks asking the same question!

There are a couple of reasons why small magnets won't affect pedals or your signal. First of all, magnets have a static field -- that is, the field is unchanging. The noise that you hear in a lot of pedals is due to 60 hertz hum, and that's a dynamic field that fluctuates and changes over time. A magnet doesn't do this.

Second, the strength of a magnetic field adheres to Isaac Newton's Inverse Square Law. This fundamental law of natures states that the strength of a magnetic field is inversely proportional to the square of the distance from the source of the field. So if you move even a tiny distance away from the magnet, the strength of the magnetic field is hugely reduced. As long as you're not putting your magnets right on top of the PCB, you should be OK.
Wicked post.
Quote by Marty Friedman
Because I bend in such an unorthodox fashion; the notes kinda slide up and slide down...
#40
Quote by Telecaster7
TS, can i ask what you were using the fs-5 for?


I had an FS-5U on my board for a bit. I used it to start and stop my Boss RC-2 Loop Station. But I ended up moving the RC-2 off my main board and now I use an older Yahama piano sustain pedal to do the same thing -- works a lot better for me than the FS-5U which is just gathering dust.
"In Power Trios I Trust..."
Gibson SG Classic, Fender CP Jaguar Special HH, '65 RI Mustang
'65 Ampeg Gemini I G-12 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror
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