#1
Hey, I'm wiring up my guitar and I cant get the solder for the grounds to stick to the pots. I've tried a couple different solders and there all the same. is there any reason why this is happening?
Guitars:
PRS Custom 24
Gibson Les Paul 60's Tribute
85' MIJ Strat
97' Snakepit Les Paul
LP Traditional 1960 Zebra
MIJ Tele
MIA Strat

Amps:
Silver Jubilee 2525
Peavey Ultra 112
Jet City JCA50H
66' Bassman
Pink Paisley Princeton RV
74' Vibro Champ
#2
not high enough wattage iron, try scratching the back of the pots where your soldering with a file or something and it will work
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#4
Thanks! my iron is 30 watts. what would you reccemond as a good iron?
Guitars:
PRS Custom 24
Gibson Les Paul 60's Tribute
85' MIJ Strat
97' Snakepit Les Paul
LP Traditional 1960 Zebra
MIJ Tele
MIA Strat

Amps:
Silver Jubilee 2525
Peavey Ultra 112
Jet City JCA50H
66' Bassman
Pink Paisley Princeton RV
74' Vibro Champ
#5
30 watts should be enough. That's what I use and it works fine. Try scuffing up the back of the pot some like mentioned.
#6
Yeah 30 watts is enough to do that. You just have to make sure the area is heated up enough and that you have good solder that has flux in it.
#7
there was some residue on the back of my pots not letting ANY solder stick, just scrape it off.
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#8
If you happen to have a dremel with a sanding attachment use it to rough up a large area of the pot, it should go from the copper color to a silverish color. If not just get a piece of sandpaper and use it to scratch a large area of the pot.
#10
sorry if I sound patronising; are you heating the site 1st, rather than trying to "press" molten solder onto it?

I have a tub of plumber's flux I use sometimes. I'm a bit of a soldering noob though so take my advice with a pinch of salt - also solder normally comes with flux in it as bulleyestrat said, I just like to drench the joint in the stuff
#12
1. Clean and scrape the surface unitl it is shiney to remove all oxidation
2. Turn your soldering iron on to preheat it (could be 5 to 10 minutes)
3. Twist all of your wires together to make a good physical connection
4. Tin the tip of your soldering iron by touching it to the flux core solder, and cover the surface of it with solder
5. Find a way to hold all the wires in contact with the pot at the junction point
6. Hold the soldering iron on the back of the pot (sandwhiching the wires between the pot and the soldering iron) for 5-10 seconds
7. Touch the flux core solder to the back of the pot (not to the soldering iron). The solder should melt and flow towards the hot soldering iron

A couple of tips, Try using lead solder, it is much better then the nonlead crap. Make sure you have flux core solder. If you do not, you will need to use a liquid or paste flux and preflux your parts to remove oxidation.

Having a set of helping hands (the metal claw things) helps to hold the wires in place. I also like to use surgical clamps sometimes to clip onto the wires and give them extra weight. This is important and will save you a huge amount of frustration.

Also, record what you do and post it on youtube so other have the benefits of learning from your successes and mistakes

best of Luck
#13
Yeah as you can probably tell I'm a pretty big noob. the solder I bought can with a tube of flux. i didn't know what iot was so ii didn't use it:P. do i just rub it on first?
Guitars:
PRS Custom 24
Gibson Les Paul 60's Tribute
85' MIJ Strat
97' Snakepit Les Paul
LP Traditional 1960 Zebra
MIJ Tele
MIA Strat

Amps:
Silver Jubilee 2525
Peavey Ultra 112
Jet City JCA50H
66' Bassman
Pink Paisley Princeton RV
74' Vibro Champ
#14
yep, when you clean the pot off, it will almost instantly start to oxidate again. Using the flux cleans off this oxidation while you are actually soldering. You must make sure that you have a Rosin based solder.

Even then, using a solder that is not rosin flux core is not recommended for electronics. The rosin flux core solders basically just apply the flux for you during the soldering process.

For a separate paste or liquid flux just put a thin layer over all of the conductive parts that will be connected (before step 5).
#16
Just a quick question. What brand of pots are being used in this guitar? Some manufactures use a type of steel or conductive plastic for the back of the pots, which make them almost impossible to solder to.
#17
if it's imposible to solder to, thats when you use tinning compound, my old man told me about it. still gotta get some myself. you should be able to tell if its steel, it'll be very shiny. and you could buy new pots, they aint exactly expensive.
#18
Quote by jimRH7
sorry if I sound patronising; are you heating the site 1st, rather than trying to "press" molten solder onto it?

I have a tub of plumber's flux I use sometimes. I'm a bit of a soldering noob though so take my advice with a pinch of salt - also solder normally comes with flux in it as bulleyestrat said, I just like to drench the joint in the stuff


Save the plumber's flux for pipes. it is acidic and BAD for electrical connections.

If you use flux, use rosin paste flux specifically made for soldering electronics.
#19
Quote by Morbius77
Save the plumber's flux for pipes. it is acidic and BAD for electrical connections.

If you use flux, use rosin paste flux specifically made for soldering electronics.

^ he's right. only use resin core solder on electronics, it could even damage the parts if you use another type.
#20
Quote by Morbius77
Save the plumber's flux for pipes. it is acidic and BAD for electrical connections.

If you use flux, use rosin paste flux specifically made for soldering electronics.


Ok thanks lads...

...I did say i was a noob!
#21
No worries. It's a common mistake. Trust me I deal with soldering tutorials on a daily basis, and I see that question a lot.
#22
The pots came with my fender pickups
Guitars:
PRS Custom 24
Gibson Les Paul 60's Tribute
85' MIJ Strat
97' Snakepit Les Paul
LP Traditional 1960 Zebra
MIJ Tele
MIA Strat

Amps:
Silver Jubilee 2525
Peavey Ultra 112
Jet City JCA50H
66' Bassman
Pink Paisley Princeton RV
74' Vibro Champ