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#41
Quote by Invader Jim
Having them respond to the picking is where it gets complicated. jof1029 (iirc) posted a schem of a way to get that to happen, but you'll have to build a circuit.

Is this the post you were referring to: https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showpost.php?p=19918396&postcount=17

When you say build a circuit, what exactly do you mean, like a loop kind of thing where the LEDs are attached to the pickups at the end?
Impossible is Nothing
#42
That's one of the posts, but he posted an actual schem. What I meant by 'build a circuit' is the actual comparator circuit.

Imho its just not worth the hassel and troubleshooting for so little a result.
#43
im not sure i ever really posted a full circuit for that, but i did post a single version of how to achieve a comparator circuit that would work (apparently not in that thread though). i think that it would be worth doing if you put some decent effort into it, but its not going to be something that would be incredibly simple and a quick drop in circuit.

heck, if i was ever going to do this (which i probably will eventually) i would go one step further and have different levels for different frequencies. so basicly it would look like a spectrum analyzer. this would involve running the signal though a bunch of filters so you could isolate frequencies as well. as Jim said, this isnt going to be something super easy to troubleshoot so if you do it you might as well just go all out.
#44
Quote by Invader Jim
That's one of the posts, but he posted an actual schem. What I meant by 'build a circuit' is the actual comparator circuit.

Imho its just not worth the hassel and troubleshooting for so little a result.

https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showpost.php?p=19926558&postcount=27?
(If thats it, I have absolutely no clue how to read that schematic)

I have tons of time this summer and not much to do with it, so I decided I'm gonna get this to work, even if it is a lot of hassle


Decided to add a killswitch btw, picked up a momentary SPST switch from radioshack (actually it was 2 for $3.75, so I'm gonna put the black one on this, and the red one on a red yamaha I have, which I love)

Edit: pic
Impossible is Nothing
Last edited by solomon684 at Jun 29, 2009,
#45
Quote by jof1029
im not sure i ever really posted a full circuit for that, but i did post a single version of how to achieve a comparator circuit that would work (apparently not in that thread though). i think that it would be worth doing if you put some decent effort into it, but its not going to be something that would be incredibly simple and a quick drop in circuit.

heck, if i was ever going to do this (which i probably will eventually) i would go one step further and have different levels for different frequencies. so basicly it would look like a spectrum analyzer. this would involve running the signal though a bunch of filters so you could isolate frequencies as well. as Jim said, this isnt going to be something super easy to troubleshoot so if you do it you might as well just go all out.

Somehow I didnt even see your post....

So with your spectrum analyzer idea, the lights would be different colors depending on how hard the picking is?

If I'm gonna do this, then I'm gonna go all out and try to put all these ideas into one guitar... always on, different intensity based on picking, and your spectrum idea, even tho I still don't get it :p
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#46
yeah, thats kinda what i was thinking. like two green LEDs for when its low leve, then two yellow ones for mid level and then a red one for when the signal is really high. of course then i would have that for like 4 to 7 (or more) frequency bands, which results in using something like 20-35 LEDs and a bunch of op amps. not really a simple circuit and probably would be tough to keep it compact enough to fit into a guitar. it would be cool if done correctly and worked well, but it would take a decent ammount of time and effort to get it working well.

and yes, that is the schematic of what i was thinking of. of course to do multiple levels of LEDs you would have to chain them together. if you dont know how to read that then i suggest you work on a bit more electronics theory before trying any of this.
#47
I have an old '80s radio with something like that in it. 3 yellow and 2 red LEDs and some SIP opamp with a couple R's and C's (there may be more to it, but the small PCB for it is seperate from the main one). The LEDs light in sequence depending on the level of the incoming radio/tape/phono/aux signal (unaffected by the volume pot iow).
#48
Quote by jof1029
yeah, thats kinda what i was thinking. like two green LEDs for when its low leve, then two yellow ones for mid level and then a red one for when the signal is really high. of course then i would have that for like 4 to 7 (or more) frequency bands, which results in using something like 20-35 LEDs and a bunch of op amps. not really a simple circuit and probably would be tough to keep it compact enough to fit into a guitar. it would be cool if done correctly and worked well, but it would take a decent ammount of time and effort to get it working well.

and yes, that is the schematic of what i was thinking of. of course to do multiple levels of LEDs you would have to chain them together. if you dont know how to read that then i suggest you work on a bit more electronics theory before trying any of this.

yea I found some electronics websites that people linked from this forum, still reading those and stuff.... I think I may ditch the spectrum analyzer idea, and just do the on/on/off which I had originally since its somewhat simpler, even though its still not easy. I'm gonna rout the guitar into a swimming pool route instead of the H-H-S so theres more room for all this stuff, and keep reading about all this
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#49
I'm gonna order the electronics and give it a shot, but before I order I want to make sure the parts I was looking at are good.

Amplifier
Rectifier (theres a bunch of different one and I dont know which one I need)
Buffer Wasnt sure what kind of buffer to get either
LEDs (only one 12in strip until I get it to work)(would use 8 AA batteries)

I still am not really sure how to wire it, but I think I have an idea and want to order the parts
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#50
well the op amp is fine, ive used that one before and it works well enough. depending on how many things you make you might want a chip with multiple op-amps on it though. something with 2 would work if you just wanted to make that exact circuit i posted you linked to. now if you wanted more levels of brightness, a chip with 4 or more op-amps might be better. it really depends on what you end up doing with it.

rectifier, that looks like it is made to be used for might higher power applications than we are talking here. spec sheet shows ratings in amps, while we are working with milliamps here. aside from that it recomends tens or hundreds of volts for the input, while we are working with numbers a lot smaller than that.

as for the buffer, thats not at all what you want. read over this and that should give you some ideas for how to pick and build a buffer.

looking at spec sheets is really important. even if you dont understand most of the stuff, just seeing what kind of voltages and currents the thing is designed to work for is a good place to start.
#51
Instead of going with LEDs, I'm gonna use EL (electroluminescent) wire. I think I am going to order 9ft of this wire and this inverter with a 12v battery pack. Gonna wire up the pickups to it by wiring pickups-->buffer-->quad op amp-->EL wire, since it is powered by AC not DC, no rectifer is needed, then wire that up to a 3-way switch... how does that sound?

Edit: Ok, what I just said wont work since the EL wire needs 110v AC and a frequency between 900-1200 Hz to work without blowing out, while the pickups I am ordering have frequency's of 5.3k, 5.5k, and 8.7k. If I can find a product that can decreases the frequency from the pickups to something in that range I think I can get it to work through some trial and error... does anyone know of a product that does that?
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Last edited by solomon684 at Jul 3, 2009,
#52
Routed out some wood under the pickguard just so there's more room.... and apparently the guitar's wood is birch

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#53
What you called "frequency of the pups" sounds like the DCR (DC resistance) which is not at all related to the frequency. The frequency of the pups depends on the notes you're playing. They do emit AC though...

I got the stuff you sent today btw. Looks more yellow irl than in the pic. Very nice though.

Never heard of Squiers being made of birch.
#54
Quote by Invader Jim
What you called "frequency of the pups" sounds like the DCR (DC resistance) which is not at all related to the frequency. The frequency of the pups depends on the notes you're playing. They do emit AC though...

I got the stuff you sent today btw. Looks more yellow irl than in the pic. Very nice though.

Never heard of Squiers being made of birch.

Do you know a frequency range of notes? If they are between 900-1200 Hz it'd make this a lot easier. I'm gonna look it up and see if I can find anything

Glad you like it

My neighbor helped me route out the wood cause he's got more tools than I do and he said it was birch, I wish I knew more about the guitar in general though....


Edit: Since it has 21 frets, the frequencies are between 82.41 Hz and 1108.7 Hz, so I would have to boost the frequency AND the voltage to light the EL wire, or should I just not worry about frequency and I'm overthinking it?
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Last edited by solomon684 at Jul 3, 2009,
#56
Sorry this is not on topic,but Invader Jim,i got a fender squier and saw that u said the serial says where its made and what year...so i gather mine is a 2OO3 model...but the first two letters are CY,its not that important,im just curious.thanks...
#58
UPDATE!! (lots of pics)

Ok, so I finished scalloping and staining the freboard, it doesnt look perfect but I think its looks pretty good. The ebony wood filler was designed to match the ebony stain but they dont look similar at all so I'm gonna try to find a way to darken the filler or just leave the fretboard how it is

The GFS pickups came today, still need to get a soldering iron before I can actually start (my radioshack one sucks, I want to get one thats better)

Neck
Before


After








Body (without killswitch and LED switch)

Impossible is Nothing
Last edited by solomon684 at Jul 7, 2009,
#59
nice! is that the superstrat kit from guitarfetish? looks like it.

looks nice looking forward to seeing/hearing the final product
I own a Gibson SG Standard
And I am officialy recognized as an SG commando


Gibson 2009 SG Standard --> Peavey Classic 50 2x12

RIP Lester William Polsfuss aka Les Paul 1915-2009
RIP Stephen Ray Vaughan aka SRV 1954-1990
#60
Quote by AC/DC4EVA
nice! is that the superstrat kit from guitarfetish? looks like it.

looks nice looking forward to seeing/hearing the final product

yes it is, I was gonna go with standard wiring but I saw that and it seemed pretty interesting, so I decided to try it... wanna make the black look new and clean so I'm gonna try to clean that and make it look brand new

btw, nice call on the white hardware jim, looks much nicer than black would've


also... I have 22 AWG wire from guitar fetish laying around, would it be better to use 24 or 22 AWG?
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#61
So I was soldering today, all was going well, then all of a sudden a lug popped off one of the mini toggles I e-mailed GFS and asked them to send me another mini toggle, so we'll see what happens




(The second pic is supposed to be of the lug attached to the wire but you cant really tell)
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#63
looks pretty sweet bro. Can't wait to see the final product.
To buy:

Line 6 MM4
Voodoo Lab power
Mesa Boogie Single rectifier
Done
Boss TU-3 Done
Shure SM58 Done



OUCH MY WALLET
#64
nice , im not sure if you already said this but what did you use for the ebony stain and filler??
#65
I imagine he got a Minwax product or a Ace hardware product that is both it looks like a paste up in the pics so am i wrong or is that what you used TS?
Hearing about a pair of great boobs is like hearing about a really cool bug or lizard as a kid and you just gotta see it.
#66
Quote by Invader Jim
If a lug popped off, you prolly overheated it.

That sucks, never happened before. I'm gonna wire it up with only the neck and bridge pickups until I get another switch
Quote by Unherolike
I imagine he got a Minwax product or a Ace hardware product that is both it looks like a paste up in the pics so am i wrong or is that what you used TS?

Yea, just regular Minwax ebony wood stain

I have Minwax ebony filler, which I didnt use yet cause I cant get the filler to match the neck stain, so I'm trying to darken it and if I cant get it I'm just gonna leave it


EDIT: ok, i took two pictures of the guitar for you guys as it is now... 2 pickups, both which are not installed right, no middle pickup, a killswitch which sticks up like an inch off the pickguard cause the rout isnt deep enough (very long switch), and not set up at all so its completely unplayable (the killswitch is fun to play with even though I only get a nice buzz/hum when I plug it in)

I think it looks really good, and just like everyone else says, it looks better in person




EVH style set up
Impossible is Nothing
Last edited by solomon684 at Jul 26, 2009,
#67
The guitar is finally finished!

Switched out the red killswitch for one I got from smallbearelec.com cause I like the way it looks more

Scallops dont look the greatest, but they work great so its fine for me

Currently have no knobs since the strat knobs wont fit smooth shaft pots (plan on getting these knobs for it)

Added in a black ice mod by using 2 schottkys, and it doesnt seem to add any overdrive, just kinda change the sound, kinda like a tone knob lol

Height for the bridge saddle for the low E string cant be adjusted so that string is too low to use... plan on getting a new and better bridge, or maybe just new height adjustment screws, and there no high e string since it broke and I have no more strings

Sucks at staying in tune so I may replace the tuners as well later

EL Wire will be added once I finish the firebird I am doing

Pics:





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