#1
Hey all,

Been playing electric guitar for about 6 or so months now, and am one of those rare lefties. I have a left handed made fender and some cheap make les paul I get by with for my electrical needs.

Problem is I was given a very nice looking red burst acoustic guitar which is unfortunately for me a right hand guitar. I've managed to flip the bridge saddle the other way, but now the major concern for me is the Nut. Obviously for the thick e the nut is grooved in more and wider and so follows the appropriate indepth groove and width for each string. But since im stringing this the opposite way it seems like ( as i havent actually restringed it yet) this might be a major problem for the thick e to stay in place with such a small groove (as its taking the thin E strings place) and the thin E string might be lying right near the fret board because the groove is wide and deep (to accomadate the thick e).

The nut seems pretty stuck in place welded or glued but very firm. Is there anything I can do with the current nut to acommadate the reversal of strings or how would i got about replacing the nut? I would really like to keep the replacing as a extreme last resort as it seems like a hefty job to do as it seems pretty stuck in to the fretboard/headstock. So any ideas what to do with the current nut or if its even necessary, as I've never restrung reverse .

Many Thanks!
#2
flipping the nut might not be an option, because you'll line up the wider cut fine but the slope up to the fretboard might be facing the wrong way, making all the cuts too low.
and all the strings will buzz.

anyway, to get that nut out, you would want to heat it with a hair dryer, then score the sides with sharp knife and tap it out with a light hammer and screwdriver.

using the cuts as is might work if you use a crazy glue and baking soda mix, dabbing it into the wide cut to build it up for the smaller string and by using a light file in an upward slope up to the board to get the thick string in the thin cut.
Jenneh

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#3
Take it to a luthier (someone who works on stringed instruments) and have them replace the nut.It's a fairly easy and inexpensive procedure.
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#4
if it's easy then why wouldnt he do it himself.


i mean he can order the nut himself then swap it out, or he can try to string it the lefty way to see how it goes, working with the cuts, like said.

and the worst case, if he's not happy, he can still bring it into a tech.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A/GB&C WTLT Lists 2011
Last edited by jj1565 at Jun 28, 2009,
#5
Thanks for the comments so far. Only problem that seems to be is the nut seems to have been glued pretty tightly and theres paint from the guitar coming to the root of it, which makes me fear if i attempt to remove it, it will crack the paint around it. I was gonna try put some araldite glue in the grooves. Another problem ive come across is the nut is in a slope so it's high where the thick e is, but quite low to the fret board where the thin e string is (on a normal right hand) so I fear putting the thick e on the low site might make it hit the frets and buzz, any idea's on that?

Also I've been made aware that in acoustic bridge guitars the saddle is angled. So far theres not much I can do about it, but I did turn the saddle the other way around, but nonetheless the groove for the saddle is angled (so the thick e string pin is closest to the saddle edge whilst the thin e string pin is furtherst to the saddle edge kind of a ":\" angle. Is this going to be a major problem with reverse stringing?
Last edited by Azaril000 at Jun 28, 2009,
#6
Quote by Azaril000
Thanks for the comments so far.


no problem

Only problem that seems to be is the nut seems to have been glued pretty tightly and theres paint from the guitar coming to the root of it, which makes me fear if i attempt to remove it, it will crack the paint around it.


if you really want it out, you use a sharp knife to score around the nut, to release it from the painted part, and heat it with a hair drier to loosen the glue.
then you tap it out.

I was gonna try put some araldite glue in the grooves.


a super glue / baking soda mix will work. perhaps your glue will too. no idea.

Another problem ive come across is the nut is in a slope so it's high where the thick e is, but quite low to the fret board where the thin e string is (on a normal right hand) so I fear putting the thick e on the low site might make it hit the frets and buzz, any idea's on that?


yeah, that's what i was talking about in my first post. you need to adjust the string heights and nut cut thicknesses, using the glue mixture and a file.

Also I've been made aware that in acoustic bridge guitars the saddle is angled. So far theres not much I can do about it, but I did turn the saddle the other way around, but nonetheless the groove for the saddle is angled (so the thick e string pin is closest to the saddle edge whilst the thin e string pin is furtherst to the saddle edge kind of a ":\" angle. Is this going to be a major problem with reverse stringing?


it's going to change the intonation.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A/GB&C WTLT Lists 2011
#7
Personally, I would just take it to a tech and have him replace it. Cutting a new nut isn't super-difficult--as long as you have a set of nut files(lotso moneys).
I dont think that turning the current nut around would work very well....