#1
So, I now plan on building a cab to match my new custom stained 112 valveking head. I've never built a cab before, and I have some ideas on how to make a rock solid cab, but I would like some advice and even some ideas from yall.

I cant find any good deminsions for 2x12 cabs, so if yall have any good deminsions for me I would appriciate it.

Its going to be stained a red oak color with brass hardware, like the head is. I was thinking that I should start with MDF on the inside and seal it like a sub cab. Then screw on some expensive white pine from the inside so the outside looks nice and has a grain pattern. I havent decided on what kind of speakers to use, I don't know if I need two 8 ohms(which I assume I do) or two 16 ohms speakers, and not sure how to wire them together to one jack. Could use some advice on a good well rounded speaker for the valveking, a speaker that can handle any genra of rock/metal.

I plan on setting the speakers at a slight angle so the sound projects over and into crowds when playing live, mabey at a 100 degree angle. Also I plan on makeing the grill cloth removable, like putting it on a fram or something, then having it screw onto the front so you have a sealed back, which should improve bass response.

But thats the idea so far, heres a pic of the amp if you need an idea of what I'm trying to do.

Here it is freshly built
Attachments:
221.jpg
#3
Dimensions are very important for closed back cabs.
Don't use MDF.
What are you amps outputs? (tell us the impedance in ohms, so we can determine how to wire your speakers)
#5
Quote by ethan_hanus
the output is 50 watts, 60 hrz, 120v at 16 ohms.

Great! Just wire two 8ohm speakers in series for a 16ohm cab.

Quote by ethan_hanus
Why shouldent I use MDF? its gona be braced with pine on the outside.

MDF is heavy, deteriorates when damp, and has the sonic qualities of rabbit poo.
Use solid wood or high quality plywood if you can.
#7
I'm glad to help!
Here is a diagram of how to wire two speakers in series connected to a mono 1/4 jack. If each speaker is 8ohm, then your cab will be 16ohm. Sometimes the terminals on the speaker are marked + and -, sometimes the positive one is painted red, sometimes there are no markings at all. (Positive and negative actually don't matter as long as all the speakers are wired the same so that you don't have one out of phase with the others. But it's still good practice to wire positive to the tip connector on the jack because that is conventional.)

#9
Quote by ethan_hanus
Thanks alot, I kinda wondering why your the only one helping me though.

It doesn't seem like many UGers make cabs. Or if they do they don't post about it often. MeanwiththeDean made a nice one last year, and the Dogger did one this year. It's really not all that difficult, certainly easier than building a guitar!

Quote by ethan_hanus
As to what type of wood to use, what would be the best type of wood to use in building a cabniet?

If you build a closed back cab and insulate the inside, then the wood type has very little effect on sound. I still wouldn't use MDF because it is heavy and warps badly (or sometimes deteriorates) if it gets wet. I would use pine (solid or nice plywood) to match your head. It will be hard to know the exact dimensions that would be best until you select the drivers you want to use.
Last edited by cedricsmods at Jun 29, 2009,
#10
Most cab builders use high quality plywood.
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#11
I used a $40 white pine board to make my head, but its a really soft wood. I might use red oak since its hard and dosent crack easly, but it might not have the same grain pattern or look the same. I really dont care how heavy the thing gets, so I guess 3/4 plywood on the inside and white pine on the outside. And this insluation, what is it, and where can I find it?

EDIT: I plan on useing 2 12 inch speakers, I dont know what the best spaceing for them are, like from side to side, and from the back. Prolly dosent help if you dont have a brand or type of speaker, but I'm working on that.
Last edited by ethan_hanus at Jun 29, 2009,
#12
For insulation, I'd just use blanket or pillow stuffing from the fabric store. There's lots of ways you could insulate. The main thing is just to keep echo waves from bouncing around and causing interference with the waves coming out of the speaker. This is also why you sometimes see high-fi speaker boxes with no right angles. I work with red oak a lot and I like it. It can tend to splinter though. The grain will probably be much straighter than your the pine on your head enclosure, but you might find something close.
#13
I don't know if this has been said, but that looks ****ing sweet man. Good job.
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#15
Good bracing imo is much better than stuffing a cab anyday. This lets you keep your response open and dont loose any high end. The size of the cab will change from speaker to speaker generally unless you get speakers close to the same specs. I made the mistake of making my first cab to big at 150l and was able to use the same speaker in a cab only 95L.

MDF is really only used in HiFi cabs. Its heavy and i believe its poisonous. I use plywood, i dont know the grade but it costs 20 euro for an 8x4' sheet and that build a hole cab for me(1x15). The most important part of your cab to brace is the baffle as any flexing of this can lead to so many problems.
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