#1
Okay so for my les paul-tele project I am using mahogany for the body, problem is that when going to glue the two pieces I saw that they do not align properly and there is a small gap. I've located that the problem is within the first three or so inches on the top-right side of the left piece. When moving the right piece down a few inches, it aligns perfectly. What can I do to "straighten" the faulty part so I can glue this sucker. I've tried sanding the area but it isn't helping.


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#3
it takes experience to do a good job with a hand planer but I recommend a joiner
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#4
How big is the gap? You will need a big level sanding block and a good hand and eye if you want to do a good job with sand paper, and I wouldn't recommend it.

Quote by fullsailstudent
it takes experience to do a good job with a hand planer but I recommend a joiner


I disagree. I used a flat rasp and sand paper to do most of the work jointing edges for my blank, but I had never even used a hand planer before and it took basically no time at all to get a nice, flat edge. If you know someone with a jointer then I'd do that, but other wise I'd go to a local woodworking store and ask for a good all purpose planer. Be sure to get a sharpening stone (mine is a 1000/6000 grit combo block) and see if one of them will show you how to sharpen it properly. You will drop $35-$40 on a plane thats worth a half **** and another $20-$30 on a sharpening stone, but it will be worth being able to do quality work. You can then use it to level the surface after you glue them too, unless you have big ass planer.
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#5
Guitarcam, you should know by now my buget and well I have no leeway that I'm willing to sacrifice. The local woodguys are pricks and wouldn't let me use the jointer without paying them a hefty fee and well though my father has all these tools at work he doesn't feel like bringing them to our house nor will he take the wood to work, anyway i'll try to fix this by hand. I just wanted to know how without a planer.
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#6
its a jointer not a planer. And get your dad to take it into work, surely he's not that lazy/ busy to help out his own son, plus it will only take him like 2 minutes.
#7
Quote by guitarcam123
its a jointer not a planer. And get your dad to take it into work, surely he's not that lazy/ busy to help out his own son, plus it will only take him like 2 minutes.


Oh trust me it's nothing like that, company policy and they both could do the same thing trust me.
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#9
this is only a last resort but you could always just fill the hole with wood filler
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#10
actually now that i think of it, that wouldn't be a bad idea as its in the middle of the guitar and the pickups and bridge should cover it
#11
Quote by guitarcam123
planers and jointers don't do the same thing, trust me


They don't but can be manipulated to. I built fences for 2 three years and when the jointer broke we had to use the planer, of course the top was busted but anyhoo


That woodfiller sounds like a good idea except I'd need to apply, let dry and basically again try sanding flat before I can glue the two together.
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#12
so if you wanna get an edge of half a body blank perfectly flat so you can glue it up with the other half, you can just run it through a planer?

I'm pretty sure thats impossible
#14
lol why didn't we think of that
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#15
thats exactly what I thought when I read that. It is like the most simplest of answers and so obvious too!
#16
Quote by guitarcam123
planers and jointers don't do the same thing, trust me


Interesting. How are they different?

I know the difference between a plane (hand plane), long jointing plane (hand plane again).

A planer, hand held electric plane, do we mean?

I would call a jointer, a Bench Planer/Jointer. Steel bed, rotary blades at the bottom, guide at the back and whatever that spring loaded arm is that presses the wood against the guide fence.

So to me a Planer is a Jointer. Is this just names or is there a real difference that I have never known of?
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#17
Same a jointer and a planer or bench planer are the same thing to me

tables with a spinning blade to flatten wood.


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#18
Quote by guitarcam123
thats exactly what I thought when I read that. It is like the most simplest of answers and so obvious too!



I would think that some would not believe I'm that retarded that I didn't check . The reason for not using the other sides are because there are slight cracks on the edge of the wood that run a couple centimeters into the middle of the body, when the shape is routed out the cracks will be gone but the non-cracked sides are what I am going to be using.
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#19
Quote by Absent Mind
Same a jointer and a planer or bench planer are the same thing to me

tables with a spinning blade to flatten wood.


Yeah, me too. Maybe they differentiate a little more across the pond?
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#20
Quote by Gibshall
I would think that some would not believe I'm that retarded that I didn't check . The reason for not using the other sides are because there are slight cracks on the edge of the wood that run a couple centimeters into the middle of the body, when the shape is routed out the cracks will be gone but the non-cracked sides are what I am going to be using.


no offence man. i didn't know that. sorry! i get caught up in the heat of the moment sometimes and forget the obvious, so it seemed a legit thing to say.
#21
A jointer has rotating knives on the bottom and produces a flat surface. When the flat surface is then run against the jointer's fence, it produces a board with 2 surface that are perpendicular to each other.

A planer has rotating knives at the top and produces a board that has the top and bottom surface parallel to each other. These two surface are not necessarily flat or straight.

You can use various jigs however to make the planer act as a jointer. This works fairly well for shorter pieces such as for a body blank but starts to get a little iffy with a longer piece such as for a neck (at least with a lunch box type planer).

If you have access to a jointer, you should use it to get that gap closed.
#22
Quote by Rusty_Chisel
A jointer has rotating knives on the bottom and produces a flat surface. When the flat surface is then run against the jointer's fence, it produces a board with 2 surface that are perpendicular to each other.

A planer has rotating knives at the top and produces a board that has the top and bottom surface parallel to each other. These two surface are not necessarily flat or straight.

You can use various jigs however to make the planer act as a jointer. This works fairly well for shorter pieces such as for a body blank but starts to get a little iffy with a longer piece such as for a neck (at least with a lunch box type planer).

If you have access to a jointer, you should use it to get that gap closed.


Your "Planer" we would call a thicknesser.

Thicknesser.



Bench Planer/Jointer



Combined Planer/Thicknesser



So it would appear to be a "names" thing.
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#23
Run it through a circular saw table, perfect 90 degree angle, but you'll lose a bit of your wood.
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#24
so are you suggesting that he use a hand planner and a long block wrapped in sand papper or just the sanding block? not sure how bad it is but just sanding could take a while
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#25
Skeet, your right, the thicknesser is actually called a planer by americans, which are most of the population of this forum so I guessed he was talking about a thicknesser.

I call the last tool a jointer/ thicknesser though...
#26
Okay guys thanks for the help, shes all clamped up. I was working at it with a hand planer when my dad came home with huge ass box of tools for me, including a table router. The edges where shaved straight and then clamped with some titebond.

you can follow the build here ...........well if you want to that is
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#27
Quote by guitarcam123
Skeet, your right, the thicknesser is actually called a planer by americans, which are most of the population of this forum so I guessed he was talking about a thicknesser.

I call the last tool a jointer/ thicknesser though...


I was talking about that last as well
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Last edited by Gibshall at Jul 2, 2009,