#1
Hey Guys/Gals

I'm refinishing my mexican strat (first guitar), I know some will ask why bother but it is for sentimental reasons I guess. So hopefully no one will just suggest get a new body.

What I am wanting to do is switch it over to a hard tail. I don't want to just block the tremolo.

I was thinking of using this bridge, http://tinyurl.com/hipshotbridge

My question is what do I have to do to get this to work? Does anyone know if it will cover the 6 holes left from the old tremolo? I imagine I have to drill holes through the body but bc of the tremolo cavity I don't know if that will have to be filled with something like this.. http://tinyurl.com/woodblockstrat

Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated.
#2
In order to mount that Hipshot hardtail you will need to the trem and bridge cavities with wood. Before doing this you should strip the finish, including inside the cavity so that the (Titebond Original) wood glue can get good adhesion. Then you will have to drill a small channel from the control cavity to beneath the bridge so that you can ground the strings there.
Fill the old screw holes with wood filler. Then go to the Ultimate Painting/Refinishing sticky for instructions on that.
If you do a really good job it will not be noticeable once the guitar is repainted.
#3
All the above.

And just for reference. I've used a hipshot on an 8 string guitar and it was an amazing bridge. If the 6 is as good quality then you will be happy with it.
Quote by Invader Jim
A post with that many big words just HAS to be right.

Wii FC: 8115 1176 4951 3028
#4
The body is already stripped. I wanted to do a sunburst finish but those 6 empty holes aren't going to look pretty.. even if they're filled. Thanks for the quick replies.
Last edited by stevenr21 at Jul 13, 2009,
#5
Quote by stevenr21
The body is already stripped. I wanted to do a sunburst finish but those 6 empty holes aren't going to look pretty.. even if they're filled.

Try the toothpick trick.
Quote by Invader Jim
A post with that many big words just HAS to be right.

Wii FC: 8115 1176 4951 3028
#6
Do you guys know of any photos that would show what the holes would look like filled?
#7
Sunburst? I don't know if you can pull that off well here. Are you going to paint the back black? The holes will certainly be visible if filled. If you do it with toothpics or putty it will look like poo, no way around that.

Your better options are
(1) drill the screw holes out slightly and glue dowels in there or (even if you use the same wood as the body is made off, this will still be visible because you will see end-grain in the holes, but it will look much, much better than toothpicks or putty.)
(I will try to get up a pic to give an idea)

(2) rout out the area between the bridge pup and the trem block rout, then fill it with a piece of wood as close to matching the rest of the body as possible. This will only work if you can get the same kind of wood with a similar grain pattern. And it will require precise shaping of the block to be glued in, but it can be done.

If you post a pick of your stripped guitar body we can speculate as to how well you could match it. Have you thought about doing a reverse burst? (black in the middle)
#8
I never even considered a reverse burst. I don't think I could because it seems there is a veneer on the guitar. If you look on the top left in the pic you'll see where the contour is, there is a seam. I planned on painting that pretty dark. I realize this isn't going to look great but it will be my first time attempting something like this and it is really just a learning experience.

Here is a pic with not all of the original paint off but it should be good enough.

Last edited by stevenr21 at Jul 15, 2009,
#9
If it is a veneer, then you should be able to see a seam all the way around the guitar. It is more likely just ugly endgrain which you see because of the angle of the forearm contour. Your are right, that needs to be covered. Honestly, I would stick to an opaque finish on this one. You could do a burst over a solid colour, such as a silverburst.

Here are dowels in red oak. The lighter the wood colour, the more prominent dowels will be.
#11
Yeah, something like that. Or these:
http://www.parkerguitars.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7335
http://www.marketstreetmusic.com/1fssb.jpg
http://www.guitarsandeffects.com/images/2bonnie.jpg
(my apologies for causing you to look at those hideous Parkers, but you get the idea)
This would still get you a similar experience to doing a sunburst, but would still cover flaws in the top of your guitar.
#12
Quote by cedricsmods
Yeah, something like that. Or these:
http://www.parkerguitars.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7335
http://www.marketstreetmusic.com/1fssb.jpg
http://www.guitarsandeffects.com/images/2bonnie.jpg
(my apologies for causing you to look at those hideous Parkers, but you get the idea)
This would still get you a similar experience to doing a sunburst, but would still cover flaws in the top of your guitar.



I am considering this statement blasphemy.


And to the TS...another option you have if you still want to do a regular sunburst is to get a veneer and put it on the top. this would cover up blemishes and look good under a burst.
#13
I was looking at other threads and considering maybe doing a veneer. I'm not too sure how difficult it would be.. but I'm up for trying.
#14
So I decided the sand the veneer that was on the guitar because it looked awful. Here is what it looks like now. I know the picture isn't very clear but I was hoping someone might be able to tell me what kind of wood this is. You can see that it is a few pieces of wood glued together.

I really like the idea of a veneer.. so much so that I bought some quilted maple veneers online for about 5 bucks. They aren't here yet but I'm concerned about it bending to the contour on the front of the body.. Does anyone know if I'll have a problem there? The veneers I got are 0.025" thick.

Thanks for any info.