#1
So I've used just about every possible diagram I could find but I'm still have problems. For starters, I screwed up. When I took the EMG's and pots out of my guitar I didn't take note of what was connected to what.

I have a Jackson DXMG (hardtail version) and I am replacing the EMG HZ's with a Seymour Duncan '59 in the neck and a DiMarzio Tone Zone in the bridge. I'm replacing the stock 500K pots with aftermarket ones. I'm also keeping the three way switch. I will be adding a killswitch button later but I know I can just wire the ground and lead to the jack and it will cut the signal. I'm pretty bad with electrical stuff so please dumb it down.

The Tone Zone has a bare wire and 4 colored ones. Two are wired together to be in series (forget which ones) the red is the hot and the bare and green go to the ground. The '59 is just one wire. What confuses me the most is the amount of grounds I have. There is one coming from underneath the bridge, one underneath the bridge pickup, one underneath the neck pickup and one in the control cavity. In my diagram they are indicated by the yellow circles. The volume pot is on top and the tone is on the bottom.

Can someone just fill in the blanks for me on this? I think I know how to wire the DiMarzio I'm just not sure which ground I should solder the bare and green wires to.

#2
All of the grounds are connected.
I know you said you read the faq, but in case you haven't seen it, here's the Ultimate Guitar Wiring thread. You'll be able to find a diagram in one of the links in the first post. Just look for something with 2 pickups, a 3-way switch and master volume and tone.
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Quote by handbanana
wiliscool is just plain dumb
#3
All the grounds are connected? Does that mean they should all be connected together? If so I will probably run all three on the right into the one inside the control cavity.

The box on the left side of the 3 way switch has a ground wire coming out of it. The middle box has a lead coming out of it which I assume goes to the volume. I can't figure out if the top box controls the neck pickup and the bottom controls the bridge or if it is the other way around.
#4




It doesn't really matter where you ground things to, as long as everything is grounded, and you don't create any grounding loops.

In your setup, I'd run the ground like this:

Pickups and bridge ground -> 3-way casing -> volume control -> tone control -> output jack. It helps to keep it fairly logical, and you can't get simpler than following the signal path.

Also.. is the area around your pots and toggle covered with conductive foil? If it is, all of the components will be grounded through that, then wired from it to the jack. Don't worry about the number of grounds from the pickup. You'll have a south coil start, which is essentially the -ve of the pickup, then a true ground for the unit (then hot, and series link of two wires).


Edit: Pictures would help.. and don't forget, that if you're not sure what's going on in there, you can always tear it apart and start again from a decent diagram - like the Seymour Duncan one above, being sure to consider the different colour coding.
Last edited by -MintSauce- at Jul 13, 2009,
#5
The only problem I have is the '59 is not a 4 conductor like the Dimarzio. It's just one wire.

It's not covered in foil, I thought about it but was told the benefits aren't really worth it.

If I can figure out how to wire the '59 then I have this all figured out.

And just to be certain, I will be ignoring the cavity ground and the two under the pups and simply ground straight to the bridge?

My old tone pot has a capacitor on it. Is it fine to take that one off and put it on my new tone pot or do I need to look at different capacitors. Both new and old pots are all 500K.
Last edited by MarcoWasRight at Jul 13, 2009,
#6
The diagram that Mint Sauce just posted tells you how to deal with a single conductor humbuckers like the '59.
#7
1. How many wires in total from the '59? It doesn't matter if it's only 2-conductor, because a 3-way toggle doesn't split. Just solder the hot to a switch input, and the ground/-ve to the switch casing. Do the same for the DiMarzio - ignore the series link, so you're essentially dealing with two 2-conductor pickups.

2. Not quite. The bridge ground is to ground yourself and the bridge to earth.. not to ground things to the bridge.

3. Yeah, using the old capacitor will be fine.
Last edited by -MintSauce- at Jul 13, 2009,
#8
Quote by Metalhead_28
The diagram that Mint Sauce just posted tells you how to deal with a single conductor humbuckers like the '59.


I've been missing that the entire time!

Now that I look at it, it seems so simple.

THANKY YOU!
Last edited by MarcoWasRight at Jul 13, 2009,
#9
!@#$%^&*(

I went to a nearby guitar shop that specializes in all the little pieces from switch knobs to pots and got higher quality CTS pots. I had to drill out the holes for the old pots to fit the CTS but that went smoothly. The guy at the store told me that his Jackson has the exact grounding scenario: one under each pup, one under the bridge and the control cavity. He told me to wire them all to the one in the cavity and then pretend that it was your only ground since they are all now connected.

I'm almost positive I followed that diagram to a T and I still have problems. There is a considerable amount of humming when my body is not grounded to the strings or bridge. I talked to the guy at the shop about shielding everything and he said it wouldn't be necessary so I don't think that's an issue.

My volume and tone pots do nothing. The guitar is always on, the volume pot barely gives any effect, if anything it seems like it changes the tone a bit. The tone control does not give any noticeable difference. I'm also having trouble getting solder to stick to the back of the pots.

Should I just take this in to the shop that I went to yesterday? They are very knowledgeable and have done work on one of Hetfield's axes.
#10
Hmmm. You have some evaluating to do. If you in fact followed their directions perfectly, and it still doesn't work, then why trust them? Of course if you did not correctly follow the directions, that might be the problem. If you want helpful replies here, try drawing a diagram of the way your guitar is wired right now. That helps us help you.
#11
I know for a fact that wiring guide is correct. It's straight from SD. When I finished the wiring last night and tested it and found out that there were still issues I tried to compare what I had wired to that diagram but I was so tired I'm not sure if I got everything.

The '59 is wired to the front of the 3 way switch like the diagram shows. It says to solder the shielding to the volume pot but it was a little tough to work with so I used another piece of wire to solder to the volume pot and then wrapped the other end around the braided shield-wire and added a little bit of solder.

The Tone Zone was easy. I wired the two correct wires together (forget which ones) and sent the bare and green (DiMarzio colors are different from SD but not for that part) to the back of the volume pot.

I'll have to check all the grounds to make sure they are correct. My main concerns are:

1. Why is it so hard to get solder to stick to the back of the pots?
2. Why do my volume and tone controls not work correctly?
#12
1. try scratching up he back of the pots lightly with a screwdriver.
2. Just for clarification, in the diagram you are looking the backside of the pots, not the side with the knob.
#13
Quote by cedricsmods
1. try scratching up he back of the pots lightly with a screwdriver.
2. Just for clarification, in the diagram you are looking the backside of the pots, not the side with the knob.


1. Ok. Is there some sort of coating on them? I know the tip of my soldering iron is a little dirty but when I put it against a new pot there seems to be an orange'ish honey looking goo on them.

2. Yep, I got that.

I just called the store I bought the CTS parts from and they said it would be $45.00 to wire the pups up! Now that I think about it, I didn't even mention that I was replacing the switch, both pots, the input jack and adding a killswitch. Seems a bit unreasonable considering this would take an hour of a skilled individual's time and requires no materials but the solder and wire that goes into it.

I'm going to give it one more shot tonight when I get done with work.
#14
That orange'ish goo is could be flux.

If the solder isn't sticking well to your pots, you need to make sure they're being heated sufficiently. Soldering is easiest if you heat the back of the pot first, then add the wire.. then touch solder to the connection LAST. Don't heat the solder directly.
#15
Quote by -MintSauce-
That orange'ish goo is could be flux.

If the solder isn't sticking well to your pots, you need to make sure they're being heated sufficiently. Soldering is easiest if you heat the back of the pot first, then add the wire.. then touch solder to the connection LAST. Don't heat the solder directly.


He is back!

Thanks for the suggestion. I was trying to hold down the wire on the back of the pot, hold the solder over the top of it, then melt it with the iron so it would drip down an inch right onto the wire. Problem is, I could use a third arm for that process.

After I rewire everything tonight (won't start until 8pm Arizona time (Mountain?)) I'll post pictures up. If I still am having issues (beyond the humming) it's going to a guitar shop if I can't get advice to get it fixed within a couple days.
#16
A person to help you or a tool called a 3rd hand makes it a lot easier. I am often dexterous enough to hold the solder and wire in the same hand, sometimes that just doesn't work.
#17
FINALLY! I have completed everything. The only issue is the volume pot isn't quite working right. When I turn it all the way down there is a slight decrease in sound but not even half of what is sounds like turned all the way up. I followed a very similar SD diagram than the one ^^^ because my switch is a little different. I followed the diagram perfectly. I'm thinking it my just be a bad pot. It's not a big issue for me as I don't really use it that much because I'm not gigging or anything.

I'm still waiting on a gold pickup selector switch knob and gold pickup rings and then the hardware will be completely golded out (minus the MXR knobs I'm using because they are really functional).

I'll post pics later.