#1
alrite, i had a crappy warlock bronze that i didnt GAF about so i decided to experiment a little bit with it , i know some people say its stupid to make a bolt on guitar into a set neck but , whatever thats why cheap guitars exists ... also a lot of people are probly gonna say : yo yo your stoopid, the glue zgonna kill the tone!!

so for those people knowledge.. cheap guitars like that usulally have a shim in the neck that makes the neck contact only the front part of the neck pocket and the very small surface of a cardboard shim so the total contact is about 20% of the neck poket...the rest is ...yeah you guessed right , AIR !whats better; 100% with a bit of glue and hidden bolts to keep the pressure or 20% with cardboard and bolts...and air?

so with that said i got some pictures of my work about 1/2 way done... i wish i had pictures of the more intensive work done before but i forgot to take them in my eagerness of hacking off that guitar







so far most of the sanding has been done but there is still the finishing to be done before i lay the stain... which might be mahoganny but if anyone has suggestion im open.. i m also considering a metallic paint maybe but still not sure
#2
the neck joint is relevant to my interests, im interested to how this will turn out.
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#3
Isnt a set neck with hidden bolts called a set in neck?

Eitherway, nice information about those "shim"s. I did not know that.
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#5
Quote by ILuvPillows?
Isnt a set neck with hidden bolts called a set in neck?

Eitherway, nice information about those "shim"s. I did not know that.

A 'set-in' neck is one where the neck tenon is long enough to mount the neck pup directly on the neck. Many old Gibsons were built that way, along with a number of Custom Shop models.

It looks great to far, but I wouldn't try to stain it. Cheap wood doesn't like to absorb stain evenly, expecially when it's been finished once before. The glue is only going to make it worse. If you've never finished a guitar before, solid colour is the easiest way to start. Metallics can be more fickle, but it looks like your attention to detail is good enough that I'd go right ahead if that's what you want to use.
#6
Theres a big difference between a well done bolt neck pocket and what passes for bolt necks in many guitars now. It is pretty common to find em with shims in em, my squire had 2 1 on the side to make the neck straight and 1 under the heel, both made of plastic strapping. Not going to do much for sustain at all. The neck pocket was rough and partially painted, and the neck was pretty loose in the pocket. So yea the glue may affect sustain some but would probably be better than a rough, loose, painted neck pocket with shims.
The guitar pictured looks like the glue job went well. Only time will tell to see how it did.
#7
yeah , thanks for the advise on the stain, i might give it a try to see how it comes out on the back or something , if it come out bad ill just cover it with high build primer... its just making me regrett all that damn sanding to get the hole thing to bare wood haha

i think solid color would be better too now because i had to fix all of bcrich's crappy woodcrafting with plastic wood.. when i put the high build primer its also gonna make all the little imperfection come out so its gonna be easier to fix before its too late+ i wont see those bolt patches either ill keep you guy informed

any ideas for the color?
#8
if i paint it metalic , im not goin to be the one to paint it , i gonna get a can of house of kolor candy, or high metallic and get my buddy that paint cars to do it for me
#10
almost got it... i already chose my design but youre close, metallic black with natural wood pinstripes ,
im putting a solid clearcoat base instead of the primer then im masking my stripes and put on the metallic, then i remove the tape and clearcoat then 800 wet + polish ... i hope ill come out like the picture in my head cuz its a lot of work
#11
^ if you do that right, I'd be really interested in seeing how it turns out
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#13
Quote by metalface682
almost got it... i already chose my design but youre close, metallic black with natural wood pinstripes ,
im putting a solid clearcoat base instead of the primer then im masking my stripes and put on the metallic, then i remove the tape and clearcoat then 800 wet + polish ... i hope ill come out like the picture in my head cuz its a lot of work


If you can get HOK stuff.

Use their UC35 clear. Over reduce the first 3 coats (must stop stringing up between coats) by 10% to help with flow out and absorption.

Let that cure at 70F over night (12 hours or so).

Then give that a quick once over with P600 and look for pinholes.

Bung another 3 coats on, mixed as per the Tech manual.

Once you have filled all the pin holes, wet sand that again to P600, then mask up.

Use 3m Blue masking tape. Spray your black, 3 coats of BC25 if you want regular solid black. Then peel the tape as soon after spraying as you dare, then go straight on with 3 coats of UC35 as before.

You really want another lot of clear on that, so go to 600 again and either use UC35 or UFC35 for the top three coats.

Then you can wet sand that with P1200 and go up as high as you want, then buff it out.
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Last edited by Skeet UK at Jul 19, 2009,
#14
yeah i dont think ill use the hok stuff anymore, just regular metallic... i have a confession to do... im doing that whole thing in a backyard shed , an orbital sander and a dremel lol... i dont have much tools that i can acces easily, so right now its do what you want with what you got.. i still think regular clearcoat if well applied and polished at the end should give me a not too bad result.. its goint to take a looooot of it tho... even for the base coat i need to have i like glass before i do my masking and metallic coat or its gonna look like ****

i wanted to get my buddy to do it but i said srew it im doin it myself, thats why i dont have all the painting supplies, but to hell , ill do it again if i mess up
Last edited by metalface682 at Jul 19, 2009,
#15
Quote by metalface682
yeah i dont think ill use the hok stuff anymore, just regular metallic... i have a confession to do... im doing that whole thing in a backyard shed , an orbital sander and a dremel lol... i dont have much tools that i can acces easily, so right now its do what you want with what you got.. i still think regular clearcoat if well applied and polished at the end should give me a not too bad result.. its goint to take a looooot of it tho... even for the base coat i need to have i like glass before i do my masking and metallic coat or its gonna look like ****

i wanted to get my buddy to do it but i said srew it im doin it myself, thats why i dont have all the painting supplies, but to hell , ill do it again if i mess up


Where abouts do you live?

You can (and I would) use the HOK stuff, because it is very very good. You should be able to get an airbrush from somewhere, even a cheap one and a can of propellant or run it off of a car tyre!

The clear, as I said, can be got in 2k Spray cans.

Or for the base, get some cheaper 2k clear in tins, mix it and brush it on! Then all you have to do is level it.
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#16
im in nova scotia, but i would have to order that stuff, also just the paint would be more expensive than the guitar to, .. i know it would look amazing but right now for what im doing i think the regular cans will do , i already got 4 coats of clear on and it looks like its doing pretty good.. still a couple pinholes to fill up but ill let it dry overnight then sand it and an other 4-5 coats and i should be in the spot, i need looottttss of clear on it because the wood is realy porous and i want to have it as glassy a i can before i put the black on
#17
Quote by metalface682
im in nova scotia, but i would have to order that stuff, also just the paint would be more expensive than the guitar to, .. i know it would look amazing but right now for what im doing i think the regular cans will do , i already got 4 coats of clear on and it looks like its doing pretty good.. still a couple pinholes to fill up but ill let it dry overnight then sand it and an other 4-5 coats and i should be in the spot, i need looottttss of clear on it because the wood is realy porous and i want to have it as glassy a i can before i put the black on



You HAVE to sand that clear before you put the black on. That will also highlight any pinholes.

Sand it wet to P600 grit on a block.

f you don't sand it, the black will not stick. It might look like it has stuck, but then when you clear over it, the whole lot will de-laminate. This is bad.
Quote by Cal UK

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#18
How'd you turn a bolt on into a set neck? ... (if the answer is as obvious as it probably is....)

It looks awesome, i may just have to try this
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#19
Quote by racman92
How'd you turn a bolt on into a set neck? ... (if the answer is as obvious as it probably is....)

It looks awesome, i may just have to try this



i dont have my glasses on, but it looks like he may have drilled a huge hole in place of all the screws in the neck/neck pocket and doweled them, then did all his wood filler and such.

i may be wrong though.
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#20
wow, that almost looks like its a neck through, its awesome
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#21
that big hole in the middle is the factory hole that they use to hook the guitar when they paint it , i had to plug it.. the other ones i just countersunk the screws 1/4 inch deep and use wood putty to fill them... gotta let that putty dry a couple days before the paint so it dont crak or sink tho, and yeah, for skeet UK ; of course im gonna sand that thing before the metallic coat lol , no orange peel here!when i say glassy i mean no pinholes or no lillte imperfections in the base. ive been pretty busy since the weekend and ran out of clear so ill try to work on it maybe later this week or this week end , ill post pics with the clear on too

also thanks for the comments guys its appreciated
Last edited by metalface682 at Jul 21, 2009,
#22
This ever get finished? The pics of the unfinished project looked good. Not every bolt on guitar neck/body set-up is going to look this nice. Would like to see the end result.
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