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#1
What are the pros and cons of different sized cab speakers and speaker combinations?

I.E. What can a 1x15 do that a 2x10 can't/vice versa? Or what makes a 4x10 better/worse than a 1x18?
#3
Bigger speakers handle bass better but can sometimes be too bassy. That's why you see a lot of proffesional bassists using combinations of different speakers.
MM Stingray
MIA P Bass
MIM Jazz Bass
GK 700RB-II Head
GK 410SBX Cab
Sansamp 3 Ch. DI
Crybaby Bass Wah
Bass Big Muff
DD3 Delay

MIA Strat
Nashville Tele
Martin 00015M
Hot Rod Deluxe
Big Muff
DS1
Hendrix Crybaby Wah
Last edited by funkbass369 at Jul 21, 2009,
#4
the bigger the speaker, the more bass frequencies it can lay out.. the difference between a 2x10 and a 4x10 is two more ten inch speakers, the difference between a 4x10 and a 4x12 is very hard to tell., but a common bass rig, you have one 4x10+ and a 1x15+ cab.
#5
An expensive 15", two mid priced 10" speakers and four 10" speakers all can match up in a way. A 4x10 can techniquely put out the best response in my opinion. good ones have evreythign really they can do low to high. 2x10's are sort of reduntant in my opinion, as they cant really be used on thier own, but two 2x10's is really good.
1x15 is another great standalone and it doesnt do highs, but great mid range, and deep round lows.
Try them all out and see what you like best,
Personnally if i had my choice i would go with a 2x12 and 2x10, or 4X10 and 1x15.
But mixing speakers has many problems.
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#6
Alright that makes some sense then. Thanks guys. A few new questions have arisen though. I have a 1x15 at the moment. Should I:

1. Sell the 1x15 and buy a 4x10/12 and a head?
2. Keep the 1x15 and save up for a 4x10/12 and a head?*
3. Insert better suggestion.

*The 1x15 I have now is a Peavey Max 115 and doesn't have an extension cab option so I could have to use a splitter to go into both the 15 and the new 10/12.

@fatgoogle
You said mixing speakers has problems, please expand?
Last edited by Royal Celebi at Jul 21, 2009,
#7
Phasing can be the biggest issue, as 15's can and will on occasions move slower than lets say 10's which find it easier to move faster. So the two speakers moving at different times cause the cacellation of frequencies etc, well that fairly runs your sound. Theres other stuff with of axis response, which i can grasp but dont feel in a position to explain.

I would get a head anyway and go from there.
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#8
Quote by fatgoogle
Phasing can be the biggest issue, as 15's can and will on occasions move slower than lets say 10's which find it easier to move faster. So the two speakers moving at different times cause the cacellation of frequencies etc, well that fairly runs your sound. Theres other stuff with of axis response, which i can grasp but dont feel in a position to explain.

I would get a head anyway and go from there.

Oh alright that makes a lot of sense.

As for the head thing, should I buy the stack and sell the combo I have now or keep both?
#9
Do you need a stack, do you need to upgrade???
Yamaha TRB1006
Fender MIA jazz bass
Hora Hybrid double bass
Hartke lh 500
Ev 606L
Epiphone les paul
#10
Quote by fatgoogle
Do you need a stack, do you need to upgrade???

Like I made in an earlier thread, I have an Ibanez IJXB190, which is running into a Digitech BP200, which is then plugged into a Peavey Max 115.

I need to upgrade everything I guess you could say. My bass is a starter pack bass; Digitech is usually frowned upon; and my amp is only 60 watts.
#11
Quote by Royal Celebi
Like I made in an earlier thread, I have an Ibanez IJXB190, which is running into a Digitech BP200, which is then plugged into a Peavey Max 115.

I need to upgrade everything I guess you could say. My bass is a starter pack bass; Digitech is usually frowned upon; and my amp is only 60 watts.


what's you're budget though? You don't want to upgrade nooby gear to slightly less nooby gear.
MM Stingray
MIA P Bass
MIM Jazz Bass
GK 700RB-II Head
GK 410SBX Cab
Sansamp 3 Ch. DI
Crybaby Bass Wah
Bass Big Muff
DD3 Delay

MIA Strat
Nashville Tele
Martin 00015M
Hot Rod Deluxe
Big Muff
DS1
Hendrix Crybaby Wah
#12
Quote by funkbass369
what's you're budget though? You don't want to upgrade nooby gear to slightly less nooby gear.

I don't have a budget. I will save up for whatever is necessary.
#13
I much prefer 12s to 10s and can tell a huge difference in the sound. Each speaker has it's own "voicing" - 12s sound much throatier than 10s, which are punchier than 12s. The smaller the speaker, the better the treble and transient response, and the bigger the speaker, the better the bass response but with worse transient response.

You should basically try cabs and cab combinations to see what tone you like - and don't forget that there's absolutely NO substitution for moving air. The more speakers you can get, the better. The number of speakers you have has more of an impact on volume than wattage does (to a certain extent, anyway).

EDIT: While 12s are my favourite bass speaker, keep in mind that a 212 is in line with a 410 the same way a 115 is. Those guitar-like cabs with 412s (one in each corner) never really work out well.
Quote by Cody_Grey102
I was looking at a used Warwick Vampyre LTD 5'er for about $200. I went home to grab my wallet and came back and some jerk with an epic beard got it already..
Last edited by thefitz at Jul 22, 2009,
#14
Quote by thefitz
I much prefer 12s to 10s and can tell a huge difference in the sound. Each speaker has it's own "voicing" - 12s sound much throatier than 10s, which are punchier than 12s. The smaller the speaker, the better the treble and transient response, and the bigger the speaker, the better the bass response but with worse transient response.

You should basically try cabs and cab combinations to see what tone you like - and don't forget that there's absolutely NO substitution for moving air. The more speakers you can get, the better. The number of speakers you have has more of an impact on volume than wattage does (to a certain extent, anyway).

EDIT: While 12s are my favourite bass speaker, keep in mind that a 212 is in line with a 410 the same way a 115 is. Those guitar-like cabs with 412s (one in each corner) never really work out well.


Alright so in order to do that, I would take my bass to a guitar center/local guitar store (or would I use one off of the racks?) and tell the employee person that I would like to try out certain cabs/combinations?

If that is correct, how would I know what sounds best? Just basically what cab/combination can get the deep drop c lows I need and the clear cutting highs of my higher frets?

And what do you mean about the last paragraph - the one below the bolded?
#15
He means don't get a cab with 4 twelve inch speakers becaus they tend to be oerkill and unbalanced when used in cabinet combinations. If you want twelve inch speakers get a cab with 2 twelve inch speakers. I suggest you try these combos: 4 ten inch speakers in one cab and 1 fifteen inch in the other. Or 2 ten inch speakers and 1 fifteen in the other.
MM Stingray
MIA P Bass
MIM Jazz Bass
GK 700RB-II Head
GK 410SBX Cab
Sansamp 3 Ch. DI
Crybaby Bass Wah
Bass Big Muff
DD3 Delay

MIA Strat
Nashville Tele
Martin 00015M
Hot Rod Deluxe
Big Muff
DS1
Hendrix Crybaby Wah
Last edited by funkbass369 at Jul 22, 2009,
#16
Quote by funkbass369
He means don't get a cab with 4 twelve inch speakers becaus they tend to be oerkill and unbalanced when used in cabinet combinations. If you want twelve inch speakers get a cab with 2 twelve inch speakers. I suggest you try these combos: 4 ten inch speakers in one cab and 1 fifteen inch in the other. Or 2 ten inch speakers and 1 fifteen in the other.

Alrighty. I already have a fifteen, so do you have any 4x10 (combo or head/cab) or 2x10 (combo or head/cab) to suggest?
#17
trust me .. the more 10's the better .. .


in all seriousness a 1x15 is great as long as it has a tweeter WITH a cross over and a frequency limiter (just cuz it can make the sound at 40khz does not mean you want to hear it trust me)

2x10 will be a little louder and will project more but wont be quite as bassy but that may be a good thing sometimes 1x15 can be too boomy expecialy without a compressor or an effect to limit volume peaks.

12's have thier own sound .. by nature they are a bit nasally but some go for that sound they basicly are the middle ground more bass presense then a 10 but not as punchy ..def more puchy then a 15 tho and slighty less "boomy" wich can be a good thing or a bad thing


1x18 just sucks by it's self they are allways used to "add to" other speakers. you add alot of boomy for vibration presence ...orgasms and whatnot
ESP B-405,Fender American Jazz Bass(EMG J active pups and LEO QUAN BADASS II ) squire P bass(EMG P active Pups)),
SansAmp Bass driver DI
Ampeg SvP PRO Tube Preamp
QSC2450 Power amp
Furman PL8
FINALLY-Ampeg SVT 810E
#18
Quote by Royal Celebi
Alrighty. I already have a fifteen, so do you have any 4x10 (combo or head/cab) or 2x10 (combo or head/cab) to suggest?


what kind of sound are you after? What kind of music do you play? Who are some of your favorite bassists?
MM Stingray
MIA P Bass
MIM Jazz Bass
GK 700RB-II Head
GK 410SBX Cab
Sansamp 3 Ch. DI
Crybaby Bass Wah
Bass Big Muff
DD3 Delay

MIA Strat
Nashville Tele
Martin 00015M
Hot Rod Deluxe
Big Muff
DS1
Hendrix Crybaby Wah
#19
Quote by funkbass369
what kind of sound are you after? What kind of music do you play? Who are some of your favorite bassists?

Ah here we go. I need a tone that will get me past a violent drummer and a loud guitarist, but stay quite bassy and kinda clicky. I play mostly fingerstyle but utilize slapping and popping and even some tapping occasionally. I play post-hardcore, but I am very influenced by metal. Some of my favorite bassists are Ryan Martinie, Justin Chancellor, Dane Poppin, and Dick Lövgren.
#20
Quote by Royal Celebi
Ah here we go. I need a tone that will get me past a violent drummer and a loud guitarist, but stay quite bassy and kinda clicky. I play mostly fingerstyle but utilize slapping and popping and even some tapping occasionally. I play post-hardcore, but I am very influenced by metal. Some of my favorite bassists are Ryan Martinie, Justin Chancellor, Dane Poppin, and Dick Lövgren.


I hate to reccomend my own amp but I think it might be perfect for you. It's bassy but has enough defininiton to cut through the mix. I play with an extremely loud drummer and a guitarist with a 100 watt tube amp and my amp keeps up with both at around half volume. I can get a perfect justin chancellor tone out of it too. It's also got a **** load of cool features and great EQ. Check it out... Gallien Krueger 700RB-II.

They don't make the cab I have anymore but if you got the cash look at gallien krueger's neo and RBH line of cabs. The neo line is lightweight. Both are great cabs.
MM Stingray
MIA P Bass
MIM Jazz Bass
GK 700RB-II Head
GK 410SBX Cab
Sansamp 3 Ch. DI
Crybaby Bass Wah
Bass Big Muff
DD3 Delay

MIA Strat
Nashville Tele
Martin 00015M
Hot Rod Deluxe
Big Muff
DS1
Hendrix Crybaby Wah
Last edited by funkbass369 at Jul 23, 2009,
#21
Quote by funkbass369
I hate to reccomend my own amp but I think it might be perfect for you. It's bassy but has enough defininiton to cut through the mix. I play with an extremely loud drummer and a guitarist with a 100 watt tube amp and my amp keeps up with both at around half volume. I can get a perfect justin chancellor tone out of it too. It's also got a **** load of cool features and great EQ. Check it out... Gallien Krueger 700RB-II.

They don't make the cab I have anymore but if you got the cash look at gallien krueger's neo and RBH line of cabs. The neo line is lightweight. Both are great cabs.

Stuff looks nice...which of the Neo or RBH cabs would you recommend? Or should I go test them out with my bass at some place that sells them?
#22
Quote by Royal Celebi
Stuff looks nice...which of the Neo or RBH cabs would you recommend? Or should I go test them out with my bass at some place that sells them?


I like the RBH series better but it's more expensive. They sound different. Try them out and see which one you like better.
MM Stingray
MIA P Bass
MIM Jazz Bass
GK 700RB-II Head
GK 410SBX Cab
Sansamp 3 Ch. DI
Crybaby Bass Wah
Bass Big Muff
DD3 Delay

MIA Strat
Nashville Tele
Martin 00015M
Hot Rod Deluxe
Big Muff
DS1
Hendrix Crybaby Wah
#23
Quote by funkbass369
I like the RBH series better but it's more expensive. They sound different. Try them out and see which one you like better.

Alright. Take my bass there then or use one off the rack?
#24
well ill recommend what i did. had a 1x12. verrry happy with the sound. blew the spaker, then bought a verrry nice peavey 12" speaker to replace it. wired it myself to have a neutrik and a 1/4" female input and used that along with a carvin 4x10 i got. wonderful sounding. so if youre looking for a good 4x10 id recommend carvin, eden, SOME trace elliots, and peaveys. i think a peavey would be more your style. look into the peavey tour 410 (i think thats the number) either way its the tour one. something like 60 pounds and prettygood specs on it. i was going to get it until i found the carvin for 250 bucks rather than wait 2 more months to save up for the 600 dollar peavey.
My name is Greg, use it.

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#25
Quote by Royal Celebi
Alright. Take my bass there then or use one off the rack?


take your bass but also try a few on the rack you think you might like and uprgrafe to in the future.
MM Stingray
MIA P Bass
MIM Jazz Bass
GK 700RB-II Head
GK 410SBX Cab
Sansamp 3 Ch. DI
Crybaby Bass Wah
Bass Big Muff
DD3 Delay

MIA Strat
Nashville Tele
Martin 00015M
Hot Rod Deluxe
Big Muff
DS1
Hendrix Crybaby Wah
#26
I play mostly post-hardcore myself. You can see my gear in my sig, you should definately check that stuff out. Also you should consider buying second hand, you can save so much that way.
'97 Modulus Flea Bass w/ Lane Poor
Warwick Corvette Bubinga


Gallien Krueger 700RB-II
GK 210 RBH
EB Volume Pedal, EHX Black Finger, EHX POG, Malekko B:Assmaster Germanium, EHX Holy Grail, KORG Pitch Black
www.myspace.com/astheends
#27
Quote by LD1992
I play mostly post-hardcore myself. You can see my gear in my sig, you should definately check that stuff out. Also you should consider buying second hand, you can save so much that way.

Right. I always forget about the second hand thing.

@funkbass: I already have two in mind. The Warwick (some fretless model, not sure which yet) and the Ibanez ATK.
#28
Quote by Emergancy Exit
trust me .. the more 10's the better .. .


in all seriousness a 1x15 is great as long as it has a tweeter WITH a cross over and a frequency limiter (just cuz it can make the sound at 40khz does not mean you want to hear it trust me)

2x10 will be a little louder and will project more but wont be quite as bassy but that may be a good thing sometimes 1x15 can be too boomy expecialy without a compressor or an effect to limit volume peaks.

12's have thier own sound .. by nature they are a bit nasally but some go for that sound they basicly are the middle ground more bass presense then a 10 but not as punchy ..def more puchy then a 15 tho and slighty less "boomy" wich can be a good thing or a bad thing


1x18 just sucks by it's self they are allways used to "add to" other speakers. you add alot of boomy for vibration presence ...orgasms and whatnot


I disagree with needing a horn, My trace 1x15 sounds great on it's own (Frequency response is 20Hz to 22kHz) and there's really just no way to get the low end of a 15 without a 15 or bigger - that being said i am adding a 2X10+1X5 to my setup for a little extra volume and more transparent top end

And believe me i do wanna hear those deep frequencies 40Hz and below
Gear:
Washburn RB2500 (5 String)
Yamaha BB400 Fretless (1981)
Carlo Giordano 3/4 Upright (White)
Cort Action 4 (Stereo-fied)
Orange Bass Terror 500
Orange 1x15 Cab
Boss GT-6 Bass Multi-effects
#29
I use a 2x10 and 1x15 combo. I bi amp the high and lows sending the highs to the 2x10 and lows to the 15. I like the sound I get and my drummer is loud and I hear myself fine. I was looking to get a 4x10. A 4x10 can produce the low frequencies of a single 15 but retain the mid punch and clear highs. 4x10 seems to be the most common setup but I like mine as I can just use the 2x10 as a monitor for smaller gigs as Im almost always DI anyway. So I would say go with a 4x10 or 2x10 with a 15 as well. No need to get a 8x10 or some huge cabinet. Ive never used a 12" so I cant compare.
#30
Quote by fatgoogle
Phasing can be the biggest issue, as 15's can and will on occasions move slower than lets say 10's which find it easier to move faster. So the two speakers moving at different times cause the cacellation of frequencies etc, well that fairly runs your sound. Theres other stuff with of axis response, which i can grasp but dont feel in a position to explain.

I would get a head anyway and go from there.


A 15" and a 10" speaker producing bottom E 41.20hz will both be completing 41.20 cycles per second, therefore they will be in phase.

The two most popular mixtures are 1x15 & 2x10 + horn or 1x15 & 4x10+horn.

Phasing problems are mainly where the polarity of speakers isn't observeed.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#31
^so the speakers have to be the same polarity?
Gear:
Washburn RB2500 (5 String)
Yamaha BB400 Fretless (1981)
Carlo Giordano 3/4 Upright (White)
Cort Action 4 (Stereo-fied)
Orange Bass Terror 500
Orange 1x15 Cab
Boss GT-6 Bass Multi-effects
#32
Quote by Double Basser
^so the speakers have to be the same polarity?


If the speakers are not wired the same as each other they will move opposite ie when on moves forewards the other will move backwards this result in a very honky midrange sound.
To test for polarity in a multi speaker cab use a 9volt PP3 type batterry on the speaker cabinet input lead/cord, put the jack plug tip to the positive (+) terminal and the Jack plug sleeve to the negative (-) terminal; the speaker cone/s should move forewards, if they don't then the correct polarity has not been observed.
Do not leave the battery connected to the speakers any longer than is needed to do the test

This applies to all systems including PA where if both cabs are not wired to the correct polarity it will be impossible to get a good sound.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#33
thanks for that, that's an awesome little gem of knowledge.

So I'm assuming you can change the polarity by switching positive and negative?
Gear:
Washburn RB2500 (5 String)
Yamaha BB400 Fretless (1981)
Carlo Giordano 3/4 Upright (White)
Cort Action 4 (Stereo-fied)
Orange Bass Terror 500
Orange 1x15 Cab
Boss GT-6 Bass Multi-effects
#34
Alright everyone, thanks for all the help. I just have one more question that I need to have answered directly.

When I go out to try/buy my 4x10 should I sell my 1x15 or keep it and use it in addition?
#35
depends on the amount of power you need, you might be better off with just the 4x10 if its powerful enough. Try using the 4x10 on its own and with the 1x15 see what sounds best.
'97 Modulus Flea Bass w/ Lane Poor
Warwick Corvette Bubinga


Gallien Krueger 700RB-II
GK 210 RBH
EB Volume Pedal, EHX Black Finger, EHX POG, Malekko B:Assmaster Germanium, EHX Holy Grail, KORG Pitch Black
www.myspace.com/astheends
#36
Quote by LD1992
depends on the amount of power you need, you might be better off with just the 4x10 if its powerful enough. Try using the 4x10 on its own and with the 1x15 see what sounds best.

So take the 1x15 with me when I go try out the 4x10? Alright. Would it matter that the 1x15 doesn't have an extension option?

Edit: Wait, what do you mean by the power I need?
Last edited by Royal Celebi at Jul 25, 2009,
#37
Quote by Double Basser
thanks for that, that's an awesome little gem of knowledge.

So I'm assuming you can change the polarity by switching positive and negative?


Yes, red is usualy positive and black negative, also brown is positve and blue negative in the UK. But correct polarity is essential.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#38
Quote by Royal Celebi
Alright everyone, thanks for all the help. I just have one more question that I need to have answered directly.

When I go out to try/buy my 4x10 should I sell my 1x15 or keep it and use it in addition?

It will depend on the impedence of the individual cabs, most 15s will be 8 ohms whereas some 4x10s are 4 ohms which would mean an overall impedence of 2.8 ohms which is below the safe working limit of most amps.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
#39
I mean that if you connect the two cabs in parallel to the head of your choice then you will have roughly twice the power you would have with just one cab. For example: If the head you want is rated at 500Watt at 4 ohms, going through one 8 ohm cab will reduce your total power to about 250watt. but that depends on the head.

If two 8ohm cabs are wired in parallel, according to ohm's law that will give you a total resistance of 4 ohms. That means you will have the full 500watts from a 500 watt head.

So unless you have a 4ohm cab, or a low powered head you will probably need two 8ohm cabs to get the full power from the head.

Obviously this all depends on how much power you really need, as in size of gigs etc you're gonna play.
'97 Modulus Flea Bass w/ Lane Poor
Warwick Corvette Bubinga


Gallien Krueger 700RB-II
GK 210 RBH
EB Volume Pedal, EHX Black Finger, EHX POG, Malekko B:Assmaster Germanium, EHX Holy Grail, KORG Pitch Black
www.myspace.com/astheends
#40
Quote by LD1992
I mean that if you connect the two cabs in parallel to the head of your choice then you will have roughly twice the power you would have with just one cab. For example: If the head you want is rated at 500Watt at 4 ohms, going through one 8 ohm cab will reduce your total power to about 250watt. but that depends on the head.

If two 8ohm cabs are wired in parallel, according to ohm's law that will give you a total resistance of 4 ohms. That means you will have the full 500watts from a 500 watt head.

So unless you have a 4ohm cab, or a low powered head you will probably need two 8ohm cabs to get the full power from the head.

Obviously this all depends on how much power you really need, as in size of gigs etc you're gonna play.


Not quite correct output will only drop by around a third IE my module is 450 watts into 4 ohms and 305 watts into 8 ohms.
G&L L2500
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass 5
Ashdown RPM pre-amp
Ashdown Little Giant 1000
300 watt 15" powered cab
450 watt 15" powered sub bass cab
2x10 + horn
1x15x10 + horn
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