#1
this is one of 5 projects have going at the moment, but the only one thats going to get finished within the next year due to the fact that im going to america in august. i wont be taking any of the projects with me, but this one needs to be finished by august the 8th so that i can play it at a gig before i go away. that includes all curing and things gonna be hard but we'll see.

i wanted to attach pictures, but your gonna have to go to photobucket - sorry

http://s646.photobucket.com/albums/uu184/cobenblack/my%20les%20paul%20kit/


edit: this is a 3 piece mahogany kit, with a poplar top (according to corduroy) with a flame maple veneer - really nice.

i had to add a little filler to the neck so that it would fit better - still not worthy of the ormsby test, but good enough to glue, and about as good as i can get it without better tools.

there is a little bit of history with this guitar in that since i started playing i wanted a purple les paul. when i bought this kit though, the intention was to do a gibson voodoo finish with black and red on the flame top - however, i did it wrong, and it worked out to be purple - i've started putting clear coats on now and it just popped - it looks fantastic - i dont have any pictures of that yet, but i will put them on.

i also know that ive made a few mistakes - for example ive not put the neck on and im already spraying clear coats, and ive not drilled the hole for the bridge (im not doing it till i put the neck on) most of the mistakes im aware of and have been done for a reason, but theres a few that just happened that im learning from
Last edited by CobenBlack at Jul 23, 2009,
#5
Whatever product you have probably says on it how long it will take to cure. If not, google is your friend.

The finish is looking good from the pics, but it doesn't do the 'purple' justice. I see a wine red.
#6
yeah - the pictures were as the stain was settling in and it went all dull again so the pictures dont make it look too great - but the clearcoats have started to go on and its more defined - the guitar isn't yet finished - so i'll have more pictures up.

i see what you mean about the wine red, in person it is a strange cross between wine red, a very deep purple (rock on) and a bit of a browny colour - strange but lovely. im gonna nick a high red camera for the final pics so i can do it some justice

some people may have also noticed that the edges of the guitar are slightly less stained than the rest of it - this is for the reason that i wanted originally to make it a distressed finish - but once the clearcoats started going on it just looked too beautiful to stop. so its going to be high gloss, but after a while i may take the shine off if it looks wrong.

edit: on the can it says 24 hours - but ive sprayed a guitar with it before, and when i put the strap buttons on the little black felt thing that goes under the strap thing got stuck to the finish - even though the rest of it was fine.
Last edited by CobenBlack at Jul 23, 2009,
#7
hey, i might be getting a kit like that soon, unfortunatly.


but lol, i wouldent mind knowing how exactly your supposed to do the neck, i know its alota clamps and glue, but WHAT glue?
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#9
looks good, mine's nearly done. Got a friend doing the wiring atm :]
Gear:
Squier Strat (modded)
Vintage SG
ESP-LTD Alexi 200
Epiphone Explorer Goth
Les Paul Build
Flying V Build
EH Metal Muff
Dunlop Cry Baby GCB95
Ashdown Fallen Angel 40
#10
ah sweet - did you put the neck on before you painted? or am i the only one who did the paint then put the neck on

new pictures coming soon by the way - i have emptied a can of clear over the front of the guitar over the past day and a half in really thin sheets. kind of wondering when to stop now, because its not getting any shinier and its not noticeably thicker. i think i'll finish the can then do the back and sides with a single can as well.
#11
i just cleared mine with varnish seperately, went for the natural look. So yeah, i did aswell :]
Gear:
Squier Strat (modded)
Vintage SG
ESP-LTD Alexi 200
Epiphone Explorer Goth
Les Paul Build
Flying V Build
EH Metal Muff
Dunlop Cry Baby GCB95
Ashdown Fallen Angel 40
#15
Quote by CobenBlack
ah sweet - did you put the neck on before you painted? or am i the only one who did the paint then put the neck on

new pictures coming soon by the way - i have emptied a can of clear over the front of the guitar over the past day and a half in really thin sheets. kind of wondering when to stop now, because its not getting any shinier and its not noticeably thicker. i think i'll finish the can then do the back and sides with a single can as well.


It won't get any shinier.

Look at how long it states to leave the clear before buffing or polishing (if it says).

What clear is it?

If you want proper shiny, you need to wet sand it then buff it, but I wouldn't do that for at least a month, if you aren't using 2K clear.
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#16
it says leave 15 minutes till spraying another coat and then leave 24 hours for it to harden. doesn't mention anything about buffing or polishing.

the paint is just some normal car spray clear. the beasty needs to be in one piece and ready for playing by august the 8th so it may have to just be strapped together and then finished properly later - although i hate having to say that though

the front was finished with clear yesterday, and the back is being done as we speak. i will have pictures up soon of them as its coming along - its looking very pretty
#17
my glue has arrived - the neck will be set in within the next few days - going to have to buy some clamps though.

a friend of mine actually has some plastic clamp things and i was wondering if maybe they would be good enough to do the job? ive heard your not meant to use too much force or all the glue will come out - they seem strong, but they use springs rather than a vice grip sort of thing - anyone think they'd be strong enough?
#20
Looking good. Cant wait to see it with the neck attached. You should email steve and let him know you are doing a build here.

I also want to point out that I wasn't 100% sure that the top on my LP kit was poplar although the little bit that I could see through the routing looked like poplar. It's also possible that some of the early ones were poplar and they are now using all maple. It's clear that some of the issues with my kit have been resolved and the kits are now higher quality than they were when I got mine. That is because when steve hears about a problem he doesn't try and justify it or make excuses. Instead he asks how he might fix it and make his kits better. So anyway... It is very likely that your top is maple rather than poplar.
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#21
thanks man - he seemed very helpful whenever i spoke to him. im thinking about wet sanding today or tommorow to get a nice shine to it. although im not sure if its too soon or not.

i should have pictures up soon of it with the neck on - and pictures of it with the clearcoats too.
#22
yo dude, looking good.

id say its more maroon/clarety (burnley fc ftw!!)

what gig you playin on th 8th??

its not quazzfest is it?? :O
Quote by Spaztikko
Imagine the part of the ballsack where occasionally old poo sticks to the pubes and hardens, and you then have to pull out, but as an amp. That's an MG.


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#24
****ing hope so.

what time it all start?? its the day after my birthday (woooo) and me, my girlfriend and a few mates are coming down
Quote by Spaztikko
Imagine the part of the ballsack where occasionally old poo sticks to the pubes and hardens, and you then have to pull out, but as an amp. That's an MG.


Greatest quote of all time?

I think so...
#25
ah nice - well we're the first band and we're set to kick off around 3.00 - 3.30 ish. we aren't really exact on the times. second band probably gonna be on by about half 4 then it goes on till some crazy hours in the morning fun will be had by all.

do you know any of the other bands that are playing? splyce and inferia are both young bands who are doing some cool local things - the 2 headlining guys you may have heard of because there fairly big locally.
#26
updates!

ok the clears been on for a few days but i now have pictures of it

today i cut the headstock. it's not finished yet but i have an idea for it that i nicked from a company that i think are called lax guitars.

anyway - here are the pictures of my guitar in her current glory

tommorow the neck should go on, then i can get the holes drilled and the shielding and electronics in.

http://s646.photobucket.com/albums/uu184/cobenblack/my%20les%20paul%20kit/
#28
what i will say is that on mine the nut is very high, so be prepared to either file into the cuts and then file it excess off the top of the nut. Or if like me, you dont have nut files take it off and file the bottom, then put it back on of course.
Gear:
Squier Strat (modded)
Vintage SG
ESP-LTD Alexi 200
Epiphone Explorer Goth
Les Paul Build
Flying V Build
EH Metal Muff
Dunlop Cry Baby GCB95
Ashdown Fallen Angel 40
#29
^yeah, the nut is very high on these guitars. They kit companies all do this because different people want different heights and it's much easier to take a little off than add it back on.


BTW, really digging the colour on that guitar.
Not taking any online orders.
#30
BTW, really digging the colour on that guitar.


Indeed, thinking of sanding mine back and staining the spalted maple now :|
Gear:
Squier Strat (modded)
Vintage SG
ESP-LTD Alexi 200
Epiphone Explorer Goth
Les Paul Build
Flying V Build
EH Metal Muff
Dunlop Cry Baby GCB95
Ashdown Fallen Angel 40
#31
thanks everyone. i ran into a little trouble last night. the neck is on and i was getting ready to do finish sanding, and then i realized that there was an orange peel sort of effect across the guitar. i had to sand back a little, and then i went back to 2000 wet sanded so the guitar has kind of a dull glow to it.

my issue is, even with 2000 grit there are lots of little hairline cuts - ive been told that t-cut will probably sort it out (since its car paint) but i refuse to do a bad job on this after how much effort has gone in so im bothered about this not working. however, presuming it does then i will be polishing it to a shine very soon and then adding hardware.
#32
go to halfords and get some rubbing compound. Their stuff is in a yellow tube by the sandpaper and stuff, or is at least in my nearest halfords. It does the same sort of thing as tcut. Apply with a damp cotton cloth in circles to rub out any blemishes. Then you need to buff it to get a nice shine to it.
Gear:
Squier Strat (modded)
Vintage SG
ESP-LTD Alexi 200
Epiphone Explorer Goth
Les Paul Build
Flying V Build
EH Metal Muff
Dunlop Cry Baby GCB95
Ashdown Fallen Angel 40
#33
Quote by CobenBlack
thanks everyone. i ran into a little trouble last night. the neck is on and i was getting ready to do finish sanding, and then i realized that there was an orange peel sort of effect across the guitar. i had to sand back a little, and then i went back to 2000 wet sanded so the guitar has kind of a dull glow to it.

my issue is, even with 2000 grit there are lots of little hairline cuts - ive been told that t-cut will probably sort it out (since its car paint) but i refuse to do a bad job on this after how much effort has gone in so im bothered about this not working. however, presuming it does then i will be polishing it to a shine very soon and then adding hardware.


If you do one thing, follow MY advice on this issue.

DO NOT USE T-CUT!!!!

Get some of your 2000 grit paper and rub on itself, till it feels noticeably smoother.

Now wet sand your guitar again (you did do it wet right?) with the paper on a block.

Make sure you use some washing up liquid in the water.

Go in an X shape. ie. Sand ////// then go back and sand \\\\\\, this helps remove scratches and not put straight ones on the body.

By rubbing the 2000 grit on itself, you will take it up to say, 3000 grit.

Once that is done, wash the body down with warm water.

Dry it.

Now go to Halfords and buy "Meguiars Scratch X 2.0", if you fancy it, buy a pack of their foam applicator pads. There is a 3 for two deal on (there was) on car cleaning stuff, so the Scratch X is about £9, the foam pads are £5 and get some microfibre cloths too and some Auto Glym, Super Resin Polsh (few sizes, get the middle sized one as more cost effective than the smallest one), that is about £9.

Use the Scratch X as instructed and just keep going with it. When you have gone as far as you can, start laying on the super resin polish.

Meguiars Scratch X £8.99

Auto Glym Resin 500ml £10.99

Meguiars Foam Applicators £4.99 (FREE!)

Heavy Duty Micro Fibre Cloths £4.99

The microfibres aren't essential, but are better than any other cloth. Cut one in half or quarters etc and use to polish off the Scratch X and resin polish and one to apply the resin polish.

T-Cut, is not really designed for modern paints and can actually make things lots worse, as it is too abrasive.

Polishing compounds are a term, that is often used incorrectly for a wide range of products, so steer clear unless you know what you are buying and using it for.
If you must buy one, use Farecla G10.

The Scratch X is what will do the job. If you are worried about cost, try and get a family member involved, because they can use the resin polish and scratch x on their car!

That is my advice to you, I suggest you consider it carefully.
Quote by Cal UK

...that's what Skeet always says anyway and he's a sex god.


Member of the official GB&C "Who to Listen to" list


I support Shay van Fani
I can supply WD Music, ABM and AllParts products to UK builders at DISCOUNTED prices!
#34
sorry i havnt replyd or owt in a while, ive been away

but yeh, i know slack babbath who are headlining, and ive heard of (and most probably seen) the others.

dunno if il be able to make the whole thing, but il DEFFO try and get down to see you guys playing.

what kinda stuff you doing??


also... do what those guys said. ultimate win :P
Quote by Spaztikko
Imagine the part of the ballsack where occasionally old poo sticks to the pubes and hardens, and you then have to pull out, but as an amp. That's an MG.


Greatest quote of all time?

I think so...
#35
skeet Uk - that sounds like fantastic advice. i would love to have taken it, but by the time i read your post (about 10 seconds ago) i had already tt cutted the guitar - i thought it would be allright as i was using car paints anyway. it has turned out pretty well and is now gleaming in the corner of the room

i'd wet sanded up to 2000 grit before this without the x sanding technique and it felt incredibly smooth. does anyone know why wet sanding is better than normal sanding?

i have saved your post and will be using it in future as i have lots more of these planned and im always looking for advice to make it better than the last time.

to mickalmighty - the more people who get down the better - we play old school rock and blues type things - zz top/ led zep and a few things like that - we've kicked most of it up a notch though. the other bands also promise to be very good so even if you dont get down for our set they are bands worth supporting.