#1
Ok UG... I want to do my first guitar mod. I'll be getting a new LP soon and I plan on coil-tapping both of the SD humbuckers I'm putting in it.. I just want to make sure I'm getting the right parts:


Working from this Seymour Duncan wiring diagram: http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=2h_2v_2t_3w_2pp

Two 500k pots: http://www.warmoth.com/Push-Push-Pot-500k-with-DPDT-Switch-On-On-P732C74.aspx

Some new knobs.. just 'cause: http://www.warmoth.com/Round-Top-Knob-Chrome-P123.aspx


Also, does anyone have any suggestions on a cheap/easy-to-use soldering iron? (I do have some experience but not alot)
Epi Les Paul (SD JB and SD Jazz (Both coil-split))
Ibanez RG Prestige (w/ killswitch)
Schecter C-1 Hellraiser
Valveking 112 (w/ Man O War)
Dunlop Crybaby Wah
Dunlop allas Arbiter Fuzz Face
BOSS DD-3 Delay
BOSS ML-2 MetalCore Distortion
#2
That cold heat thing from those TV ads is easy to use but i doubt it's cheap.
Mah Gear:
Ibanez RGR420EX
Peavey 6505+ 112 Combo
Yamaha F-310
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#3
Quote by RDX1138
That cold heat thing from those TV ads is easy to use but i doubt it's cheap.


TS, please don't buy one of these. Biggest waste of money ever. I bought one last year to give it a shot and it couldn't even heat the solder enough to melt it. I'm sure its great for doing boards and smaller soldering things but for big projects like soldering onto potentiometers its just a complete waste. That and the fact that it only generates heat with pressure to the tip of the gun, and sometimes I would have to move it around to finally get it to turn on, then I'd have to hold it in one spot for about 5 minutes to get it warm enough to even barely melt the solder I was trying to heat.

The diagram and pots you've selected are right, just make sure your pickups are 4-conductor. As for the soldering iron, you're better off just buying a regular sodering iron from Radioshack or somewhere.
#4
Quote by _EnigmA_
Ok UG... I want to do my first guitar mod. I'll be getting a new LP soon and I plan on coil-tapping both of the SD humbuckers I'm putting in it.. I just want to make sure I'm getting the right parts:


Working from this Seymour Duncan wiring diagram: http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=2h_2v_2t_3w_2pp

Two 500k pots: http://www.warmoth.com/Push-Push-Pot-500k-with-DPDT-Switch-On-On-P732C74.aspx

Some new knobs.. just 'cause: http://www.warmoth.com/Round-Top-Knob-Chrome-P123.aspx


Also, does anyone have any suggestions on a cheap/easy-to-use soldering iron? (I do have some experience but not alot)
It looks to me like you AREN'T getting the right parts. The knobs you linked to have setscrews. They were meant for solid shaft pots. They won't work well with split shafts.

also, you MUST check the thickness of the wood the bushing has to go through.
Chances are, you'll need long shaft pots.
Normal and long-shaft shown below:

Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#5
Quote by _EnigmA_
Ok UG... I want to do my first guitar mod. I'll be getting a new LP soon and I plan on coil-tapping both of the SD humbuckers I'm putting in it..


Erm, correct me if I'm wrong, but I read somewhere that coil tap was only for single coils? Do you mean coil-split?
Ibanez S540

MXR EVH Phaser
Ibanez TS-9
Ibanez WD-7
Electro Harmonix LPB-1

Traynor YCS 50 Blue
#6
Quote by wair138
Erm, correct me if I'm wrong, but I read somewhere that coil tap was only for single coils? Do you mean coil-split?
Yes, of course he means coil split.

A "purist" will pitch a fit about the use of the term, but everyone knows what is meant.
Besides, those purists are being a bit pedantic. Sure the HB is not actually being "tapped" as it's two separate coils.

But nothing is actually being "split" either.
One of the coils is being used as a single, that's all.


Pedantic issue is pedantic.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#7
Quote by chip46
TS, please don't buy one of these. Biggest waste of money ever. I bought one last year to give it a shot and it couldn't even heat the solder enough to melt it. I'm sure its great for doing boards and smaller soldering things but for big projects like soldering onto potentiometers its just a complete waste. That and the fact that it only generates heat with pressure to the tip of the gun, and sometimes I would have to move it around to finally get it to turn on, then I'd have to hold it in one spot for about 5 minutes to get it warm enough to even barely melt the solder I was trying to heat.

The diagram and pots you've selected are right, just make sure your pickups are 4-conductor. As for the soldering iron, you're better off just buying a regular sodering iron from Radioshack or somewhere.

Yeah, I'd just get a 40 watt radioshack iron. It's pretty nice.
Current Gear:
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Audient iD22 interface
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Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#8
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
It looks to me like you AREN'T getting the right parts. The knobs you linked to have setscrews. They were meant for solid shaft pots. They won't work well with split shafts.

also, you MUST check the thickness of the wood the bushing has to go through.
Chances are, you'll need long shaft pots.
Normal and long-shaft shown below:



Thanks for the help,

What kinds of knobs would work with a split shaft pot?

EDIT: Would these work? http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Q-Parts-Shell-Dome-Knob-Single?sku=420926
(They would look AMAZING with the transparent blue finish..)
Epi Les Paul (SD JB and SD Jazz (Both coil-split))
Ibanez RG Prestige (w/ killswitch)
Schecter C-1 Hellraiser
Valveking 112 (w/ Man O War)
Dunlop Crybaby Wah
Dunlop allas Arbiter Fuzz Face
BOSS DD-3 Delay
BOSS ML-2 MetalCore Distortion
Last edited by _EnigmA_ at Aug 2, 2009,
#9
dunno, man. nothing in the description tells if they're made for solid or split shaft.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#10
Epi Les Paul (SD JB and SD Jazz (Both coil-split))
Ibanez RG Prestige (w/ killswitch)
Schecter C-1 Hellraiser
Valveking 112 (w/ Man O War)
Dunlop Crybaby Wah
Dunlop allas Arbiter Fuzz Face
BOSS DD-3 Delay
BOSS ML-2 MetalCore Distortion
#12
Ok one more and I'm done lol

What about these? http://www.warmoth.com/Round-Top-Knob-Ivoroid-P388C823.aspx

I know they're made for split shaft pots but they're push on.. would that be a problem if I'm gonna be running a push pull pot?
(Dumb question I know... )
Epi Les Paul (SD JB and SD Jazz (Both coil-split))
Ibanez RG Prestige (w/ killswitch)
Schecter C-1 Hellraiser
Valveking 112 (w/ Man O War)
Dunlop Crybaby Wah
Dunlop allas Arbiter Fuzz Face
BOSS DD-3 Delay
BOSS ML-2 MetalCore Distortion