#1
So im buying an ibanez xiphos and i want to replace the Edge III. I know of 2 people who have done so, but when i ask them questions they dont seem to answer...

Here are the two people :

http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/pickups-electronics-and-general-tech/83131-pimp-my-xiphos-56k-driving-a-yugo.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAEOsJJ-prY


The first guy shimmed the bridge. He answered my questions until i asked about the nut and how he shimmed the bridge. the second guy shimmed the nut instead but isnt answering questions.

So here is my question... What would i have to do to put an OFR on my xiphos? Where should i shim and how?
#2
They make nuts with several different radii. You buy the nut that matches your fretboard radius.

The radius on the bridge is not easily adjustable and is, I believe, 12" from the factory. You have to shim under the saddles to change the radius. You can buy shimming kits.
(Alternatively, you can grind off the bottom of the saddles to adjust the radius, but that' not as easy)

I've seen a website somewhere that gives shimming recommendations to achieve different radii. It's worked for me in the past. I'll see if I can find it.

You may need to shim the nut in order to get the right height, and they sell shim kits for those too.
Last edited by Metalhead_28 at Aug 7, 2009,
#3
Ok, thanks the site sounds helpfull post it if you find it
how do i know what nut is the right radius. whenever i go to buy one it gives me options like R1, R2, R3, R4... the guitar im getting has a radius of 400mm.

EDIT:

so i found a new OFR in Canada. Here are the choices of nuts:

This auction is for a brand new complete Floyd Rose Original system in box ( Black ) with your choice of R2 ( 1 5/8" or 41mm), R3 ( 1 11/16" or 42.8mm ) , R4 ( 1 11/16" or 43mm with wide spacing ) , R8 ( R3 or 42.8mm with 15" radius ) , R9 ( R3 or 42.8mm with 15" radius and bullet cut ) , and R10 ( R4 or 43mm with 15" radius ).

Wich one would i need?
Last edited by R74NOGRADY at Aug 7, 2009,
#4
You need the one that matches your nut width and radius. 400mm is right around 16", so the 15" radius is as close as you're gonna get. (It will work fine with a 16" radius, I've done it several times), and your nut width is probably 43mm which is about 1 11/16".

I'd say chances are, for a Xiphos you need an R10.
#6
You may need to shim the nut for height, depending on how deep the current shelf is cut.

If you're getting a new Original Floyd, you will most certainly need to shim the saddles. I can't find the site I was thinking of, but you can buy a shim set from lots of places.
The saddles are three different heights, you'll need to shim the outermost 2 saddles on each side.
#7
This is pretty confusing... lol Thanks for your help Metalhead. I really enjoyed watching your builds they are amazing!

So the guy on youtube said that he got a nut with a 10 radius as opposed to the 15 that you recommended. He shimmed the nut and that's it. He sais it plays perfectly no need to shim the saddles or anything. Would that work? i dont get how the radius differences would go together?
#8
A 10" nut on a 15" board might be playable, but you won't be able to set it up worth a damn. You can't shim the nut to change the radius, you can only raise or lower the whole nut. Your E strings are going to be too low or the D & G strings will be too high.

An original Floyd Rose from the factory will have a 10 or 12" string radius (I don't recall which). You won't be able to get an even action without shimming the saddles. Again, it might be playable if you're not picky, but it will be a terrible set-up.
#9
Once again thank you
So i'm going to buy the OFR with the R10 nut. I'm going to do like the "pimp my xiphos" guy on the seven string forum. He didnt shim the nut, instead he shimmed the saddles. I'm not sure how to put shims under the saddles though... And i dont know what ones to put them under. In one picture, he put two shims like this:

and in another, he put only one shim like this:


There may be more, but i cant see them. could you help me with the placement of the shims? then i will be done questionning you
#11
Quote by -MintSauce-
I have an OFR on my 16" radius Alexi :\

Why can't you just buy a 16" one?


I'm pretty sure ESP's use 12" radiussed fretboards. Atleast that's what i read on the ESP forum. I would buy a 16" or 15" bridge if i could find one, but the only ones i have found were standard 12"
#12
Looks like I was mistaken. The Alexi 600 apparently has a 14" radius fingerboard, and that's considered to be the norm for ESP.

In that case, I revoked my "Why can't you just buy a 16" one?" comment.

Also, I realise that the guitars are different, but the ESP Japan website lists the Alexi models as using the R2 Floyd nut. If they're shipping 14" radius guitars with 10" radius nuts, surely you'd be okay using a 10" or 15" nut on your 16" radius Xiphos?
#13
Floyd Rose makes three different height saddles. If you buy a new one it will come with three of each, the D & G are the tallest, the A & B medium, and the E saddles are the shortest. Used just like this, they will yield a round a 10-12" radius.

Some manufacturers that use an Original Floyd will use modified saddles to get the right radius, but in my experience you cannot get different saddles from the company. (I'd love for somebody to prove me wrong, seriously)

To put in the shims, you just remove the screw holding the saddle to the base plate and stick the shims under it. The shims will have a hole that the screw goes through.
I think in the past I've gotten shim kits that had a bunch of 0.2mm shims. I think I stuck 2 under the A & B saddles and 3 under the E saddles. I may be wrong about that, but it's probably a good place to start.

Do it before you set the intonation, obviously. It's not that hard to trial and error it until you have the action that you want. You might want an extra shim on the bass side saddles if you use really heavy strings.
#14
Quote by -MintSauce-
Looks like I was mistaken. The Alexi 600 apparently has a 14" radius fingerboard, and that's considered to be the norm for ESP.

In that case, I revoked my "Why can't you just buy a 16" one?" comment.

Also, I realise that the guitars are different, but the ESP Japan website lists the Alexi models as using the R2 Floyd nut. If they're shipping 14" radius guitars with 10" radius nuts, surely you'd be okay using a 10" or 15" nut on your 16" radius Xiphos?


I've tried 10" radius nuts on 16" and 15" radiused boards before, you can't get the set up very good. On a 12" board they feel fine, but thats about as far as I would try to go.

A 15" nut on a 16" board is perfectly fine.
#16
Yay now 2 people answering my questions

I just watched a video on how to install a floyd from scratch and intonate it. It actually seems really easy. I think i can handle it It will just take some time to figure out the right amount of shims and where to put them...

I thought of just keeping the old locking nut, but its an Ibanez Edge III trem... so if the trem sucks, than chances are that the locking nut will suck too. If the locking nut comes with the OFR, then why not upgrade. the original hardware is cosmo (wich is ibanez for chrome) so it wouldnt match either.

EDIT:
mintsauce, have you made any progress on your alexi build or explorer conversion?
#17
There's really no reason the Ibanez nut should suck. If it didn't clash too bad I'd consider keeping it.

Intonating a Floyd is not difficult, but it can be time consuming to the point of frustration. I bought one of these:



Which allows you to move the saddle with string tension on it. Makes it far easier and faster. If it's a once in a while thing, it may not be worth it. Although they are only around 12 dollars or so.
#18
What's that thing in the picture called?
I'll take off the original nut and replace it with the OFR one. But i'll keep the old one incase the R10 doesnt fit. I could always try painting it black if i decide to use it...
#20
a locking nut is a locking nut, buy the OFR and shim the saddles, will save a ****load of time because the ibanez nut will already have been cut etc to suit that guitat, why go through the burden of doing that again?
Gear:
Gibson Explorer
1981 Ibanez Destroyer II
1982 Ibanez Rocket Roll II
Charvel(ish) San Dimas 2 (modding)
Jackson PS-4 (modding)
Squier Affinity Strat (modding)
custom made Flying V/ Iceman
Headless Steinberger copy

Hail the Hordes!!
#21
^ good point... i get a locking nut with the floyd so i'll get the R10, but instead of replacing the entire nut, i'll just replace the string clamps/pressure pads and the string retainer bar for the black OFR ones.

Or i could sell the OFR nut for $$

EDIT: the guy from the sevenstring forum finally came through

He told me he bought a black Ibanez locking nut because the FR ones are the wrong radius. He also told me to place the shims like this: 2 under each E string saddles, one under the A and B saddles.
Last edited by R74NOGRADY at Aug 9, 2009,