#1
Hey guys!

I took my guitar to get a setup... this was Friday around 3PM.
At 5:30 he calls me and says its done.

I went and i picked it up... it played fine in G.
I came home and i was practicing a song in E.
when i did A and B, the strings vibrated (bar-coded A and B)
the thick E strings vibrates.

I took it back to the shop and he raised it up... after rasing it a couple of times... i think it got to 8thinest and 9 at thicks the string still vibrated abit.

He put a piece of strip at the end of the guitar under the thing strings go over...
it took care of the vibrating... but it still vibrates the thickest E. when strummed hard.

right now the strings are a little too distant to the fret because it hurts when i practice.
also playing up the fret.. just harder and harder.

It was NOT vibrating before i took it in... so im a lil upset right now.

but as you can see I dont know alot about guitar setups.
I paid $35 for setup plus Elixer strings $15.
So i just paid $50+ bucks to get new strings and have it vibrate.

I would like to know what to tell him.. or what to suggest.
As I don't know alot.. i think you guys might know better.

This is a Laguna LG6CE

Thanks!
#2
the only thing to do is take it to him till he gets it right and tyr it out in the store before you take it or request a refund and take it somewhere else.
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#3
do you recommend something?
i think hes kinda messing around since i dont know alot.
I know he's not doing it on purpose..
but since i dont know alot.. i dunno... he raised it to the point where it hurts when i play for over half an hour
#4
Quote by nickbunyun
Hey guys!

I took my guitar to get a setup... this was Friday around 3PM.
At 5:30 he calls me and says its done.

I went and i picked it up... it played fine in G.
I came home and i was practicing a song in E.
when i did A and B, the strings vibrated (bar-coded A and B)
the thick E strings vibrates.

I took it back to the shop and he raised it up... after rasing it a couple of times... i think it got to 8thinest and 9 at thicks the string still vibrated abit.

He put a piece of strip at the end of the guitar under the thing strings go over...
it took care of the vibrating... but it still vibrates the thickest E. when strummed hard.

right now the strings are a little too distant to the fret because it hurts when i practice.
also playing up the fret.. just harder and harder.

It was NOT vibrating before i took it in... so im a lil upset right now.

but as you can see I dont know alot about guitar setups.
I paid $35 for setup plus Elixer strings $15.
So i just paid $50+ bucks to get new strings and have it vibrate.

I would like to know what to tell him.. or what to suggest.
As I don't know alot.. i think you guys might know better.

This is a Laguna LG6CE

Thanks!


I read and re-read your post like 3 times now, and for the life of me I can't figure out what it is you're talking about. Strings are supposed to vibrate, that's how they make their sound. Bar coded A and B? What's that all about? Sounds to me like you need to learn some of the proper terminology first so you can explain to us better what it is that's happening to your guitar.
But for starters, I'd bring it back in to the guy who did the setup and have him put it back to where it was before he touched it, with the exception of new strings that is. I bet you just brought the guitar in without having a clue what a setup was and told the guy you wanted one and new strings, right? What made you think the guitar even needed one in the first place?
#5
Quote by LeftyDave
I read and re-read your post like 3 times now, and for the life of me I can't figure out what it is you're talking about. Strings are supposed to vibrate, that's how they make their sound. Bar coded A and B? What's that all about? Sounds to me like you need to learn some of the proper terminology first so you can explain to us better what it is that's happening to your guitar.
But for starters, I'd bring it back in to the guy who did the setup and have him put it back to where it was before he touched it, with the exception of new strings that is. I bet you just brought the guitar in without having a clue what a setup was and told the guy you wanted one and new strings, right? What made you think the guitar even needed one in the first place?


Same with me.

Sorry TS, but for the life of me, I cannot figure out what you're trying to tell us.
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#6
I paid $35 for setup plus Elixer strings $15.
So i just paid $50+ bucks to get new strings and have it vibrate.

lol
sorry, you have to learn how to set up guitar yourself. you dont have to be adeptus mechanicus to do it.
i wouldnt pay a shilling for it.
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#7
Maybe he means he is playing a bar A shape (B chord at second fret) and now the low E buzzes, when he is playing first position key of E? But then again the low E is usually left out anyway when playing A and B...

Sounds like the luthier added a shim under the saddle to raise the strings. Even though the action is too high, the string still buzzes. Did he file down the nut? TS, nut is at the top where the tuners are, saddle is near the soundhole. Not enough info to tell which one he may have modified from your post.

Btw, uh...Elixers...yuck...they sometimes buzz worse than other brands.
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#8
by vibrating... i mean its buzzing.

I'm sorry, I think in Romanian and translate in my head in English.

I was thinking either to do a setup or to buy new strings.. since I had the guitar for about 4 months.

So I took it to a local shop.. he asked if there's anything I would like him to look in particular.
All i said, if he can check the intonation make sure its ok.

When i got it back, played OK in G.

As soon as I barcoded an A, and B (while playing in E)
the thickest E was buzzing.
#9
Quote by LeftyDave
I read and re-read your post like 3 times now, and for the life of me I can't figure out what it is you're talking about. Strings are supposed to vibrate, that's how they make their sound. Bar coded A and B? What's that all about? Sounds to me like you need to learn some of the proper terminology first so you can explain to us better what it is that's happening to your guitar.
But for starters, I'd bring it back in to the guy who did the setup and have him put it back to where it was before he touched it, with the exception of new strings that is. I bet you just brought the guitar in without having a clue what a setup was and told the guy you wanted one and new strings, right? What made you think the guitar even needed one in the first place?



1. Guitar - strings do NOT vibrate. - need new strings.. so i decided might as well get setup..

2. Guitar setup - I go get it, when i barcode chords, the thickest E vibrates.

3. I go back, he raises the strings with what i think its a hexagonal key.
- He told me he usually sets it at 3 on little E, and around 4-5 on Thick E.

4. He raised it to the point where it did little difference.

5. He put a "luthier added a shim under the saddle to raise the strings"

6. I still have SOME vibration now after a few raises and higher shim.

But after around 30 min of practicing... my fingers hurt.
It is noticable higher esp when I play open E (7th fret) and move to B bardcoded (7th fret)


========
You asked if I know what a "setup" is.

In detail, no. So far everyone has recommended to do a guitar setup at least once a year.
My other acoustic.. was a Ibanez PF.. i had it for about 3 years.. all i did was change strings, and it started sounded a lil crappy.
So i took it get done a setup, I couldn't believe my ears how nicely it played after the setup.
I thought a setup would actually help...
Last edited by nickbunyun at Aug 9, 2009,
#10
The hex key he used was for adjusting the truss rod. I can't recall ever seeing an acoustic with a saddle where the string heights could be adjusted with a hex key (allen wrench, if that helps with translation). Not sure about the numerical settings either, I definitely never saw a guitar with any sort of dial where the string height could be set to a number of any sort.

Sounds like he tightened the truss rod too much to remove the bow (trying to make the neck more flat), then he raised the strings to eliminate the buzzing. The guitar neck by design needs a bit of curve.

What is the model and manufacturerer (brand) of the guitar?

EDIT: Still playing the Laguna LG6CE-RW? I'm guessing by the numbers you mentioned you meant thousandths of an inch/metric equivalent, and he set it using a ruler or calipers. No adjustable bridge on that brand. It's a mid-grade guitar, string height should have been close, straight from the factory.

Did you ever play Elixers before this change? I found your thread from a few days ago...https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1175851...The strings may be the issue here. Let me grab my flameshield...

Anyone know how to say "Elixers suck balls" in Romanian?
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Last edited by millerdrr at Aug 9, 2009,
#11
Quote by nickbunyun
1. Guitar - strings do NOT vibrate(buzz). - need new strings.. so i decided might as well get setup. First mistake. No reason to get a setup since guitar was playing ok already. New strings needed, that's all.

2. Guitar setup - I go get it, when i barcode(barre chord) chords, the thickest E vibrates(buzzes). Luthier should have noticed this immediately and fixed it on the spot before he gave it back to you and you would never have known about it.

3. I go back, he raises the strings with what i think its a hexagonal key.
- He told me he usually sets it at 3 on little E, and around 4-5 on Thick E. This is the next mistake made here. Truss rod adjustments should be performed BEFORE action adjustments. But then again, it sounds like you are talking about the bridge saddle. Is the bridge adjustable for height on your particular acoustic? I know Gibson tried(and failed) putting a tune-o-matic type bridge on one of their guitars years back. It was a flop because of it's mass, it robbed so much tone from the guitar it sounded like crap.

4. He raised it to the point where it did little difference.

5. He put a "luthier added a shim under the saddle to raise the strings" Yet another mistake. Shims aren't the best way of raising the action. They work, but at the cost of some tone and sustain. Luthier should know this.

6. I still have SOME vibration(buzz) now after a few raises and higher shim.

But after around 30 min of practicing... my fingers hurt.
It is noticable higher esp when I play open E (7th fret) and move to B bardcoded (7th fret) Your fingers are hurting because the action is far far too high now. It's that way because the fretboard is now too flat, so the luthier compensated by raising the action.


========
You asked if I know what a "setup" is.

In detail, no. So far everyone has recommended to do a guitar setup at least once a year.
My other acoustic.. was a Ibanez PF.. i had it for about 3 years.. all i did was change strings, and it started sounded a lil crappy.
So i took it get done a setup, I couldn't believe my ears how nicely it played after the setup.
I thought a setup would actually help...


OK. I've fixed up your post some and added in correct wording where it was needed. My replies are in red.
A setup is not needed yearly. A checkup perhaps. It all depends on the guitar and how well it is being maintained. Correct humidity, temperature, string gauge consistency all lead to a happy healthy guitar that may need only periodic adjustments once every few years.
It sounds to me like the guy you had work on your guitar needs a refresher course in acoustic guitar repair.
All is not lost yet however. Everything that was done to your guitar is easily fixable. First off I would get rid of the shims under the saddle. Then I would relax the truss rod by loosening it about 1/4 turn. Play the guitar a few days and see how it is. If it still buzzes, loosen the truss another 1/4 turn to allow more relief. That may be all it needs to get it back into shape, or at least close to where it used to be before that guy worked on it. Hope this is somewhat helpful to you.
#12
Quote by millerdrr
.The strings may be the issue here. Let me grab my flameshield...

Anyone know how to say "Elixers suck balls" in Romanian?


Lucky for you that flameshield is up!
Come on now, honestly. Elixers aren't all THAT bad. The polywebs yes. The nano's are just fine tho. I've been avoiding them because they're a bit too slippery for my likes. Not a fan of overshooting my mark on slides. It's easy to get too carried away with those. But they do last a good long time.

Ever try their electric nano's? The B and high E have an anti-rust coating on them and don't sound half bad. Had them on my Gibby SG for a while, .010 gauge. Not bendy enough tho so never tried them again. Now, if they (GoreTex) could come up with a set of acoustic strings that have that same anti-rust coating on all the strings, they might have something.
#13
^Nope. My ignorant bias is based strictly on playing one very cheap guitar, one time, in a pawn shop where the guy was trying to sell me the strings, which based on the descriptions (memory fails me) were polywebs.

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Quote by Basti95
People only come here to get sigged anyway


Quote by Basti95
Rats, I thought someone would sig it and make me famous...

it was going to be my big break

#14
New strings always buzz alot, after a week they should sound 'normal'.

On electric guitars (don't know if it's the same for acoustic guitars) you can check your neck by doing this:
Push the string down at the 1th fret and last fret.
Look in the middle of the string (between 7th and 9th fret), the string should ALMOST touch the frets. You should be able to put a pick between the frets and the string.
If this is not the case your trussrod is setup wrong ('hex wrench' near the headstock thing).

If your trussrod is setup good, you should be able to lower your action = put strings lower by removing shim.

Did the luthier cut in the nut? (the white thing; "fret 0")


I think you only heard the more 'metalic'-like sound of new strings, which is normal. Or perhaps you fretted the bar chord wrong, because your guitar felt different?
#15
hey..
he was using some sort of measuring stick to see the distance between the fret and strings.
whats a good distance to have?
i mean i have 3 acoustics this was the easiest to play.. the action was amazing!

so what are some good numbers? as a general
#16
Take it somewhere else.

It only takes me one trip to know if I will let that tech/luthier ever touch my guitar ever again. Its get it right the first time, or goodbye.
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#17
well i already paid for it.
this tuning stuff he's not charging for.. cause im not happy with it.

im going back there in 2 hours, so he can re-tweak it...
lower the action abit... any tips?