#1
Hey all

ive posted a few questions about building from household woods as a test build and after much help ive got underway with it.

so here are the planned spec:

ESP M body style
ESP Pointy reverse headstock
Oak Neck Thru
Pine Body
Pine Fretboard
24 Frets
1 Humbucker
1 Volume no tone
TOM Bridge String thru
No Inlays (Maybe add later once i get a dremmel) Solder side dots

This isnt going to be any kind of high end build but that is the plan for my second build (ill update on plans for that once this one is complete)

So then the start, neck already laminated oak (i made an instant oops and made it a 4 peice laminate so off to a bad start (unfortunatly i had no more to add another laminate and it wasnt wide enough with just 3) and pine wings (trimmed prior to glueing)




Glued with body shape marked out




Body and neck very roughly cut out using a jigsaw (one instant issue with oak is its damn hard to cut)




Headstock roughly shaped, neck planed to same thickness as body and body carving planned (both carvetop or notmal RG style arm rest cutaways, i think im going with the RG style arm and belly contours)



Back contours & planned cavity area (quite big for a solo pickup but it gives me the option to add more later without having to make it bigger)




one of the family to be (current play build, BC Rich Body Art Vamperilla and my dream guitar made real my Shamray Custom CS-1985)




Thats all for now folks, ive just ordered a cheap trussrod of ebay so until that comes not much will progress.

all comments welcome but please leave the "but oak aint a tonewood" comments to a minimum please
Proud owner of Paul Allander PRS styled - Shamray CS-1985
CS-1985 Pics
Jackson RR24 White with black bevels
#2
Hokay, so I'm using oak in my build as a body, I was advised against using it as a neck due to the grain being fairly open. But as you have it laminated, it may be ok, don't quote me on that though. Otherwise, it looks cool bru. I recommend a angle grinder sanding attachment for the carving, it is a bloody good tool.
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#3
Hah it looks real classy for saying it's Oak and Pine!
But I'd be worried about the Pine fretboard, Pine is INCREDIBLY soft and the frets may not hold very well.
I'd just shell out the £2 for a fretboard blank
#4
Cool stuff boss. I like seeing people be resourceful with builds. I have an oak guitar and I like it just fine. Pine fretboard concerns me though because it is so soft.
#5
dude bad choice in wood oak is horrible for tone you should have use maple or even walnut or something else.
#6
Quote by SG Commander
dude bad choice in wood oak is horrible for tone you should have use maple or even walnut or something else.


The build looks good, but I have heard this as well.

Good luck anyway.
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#7
there is 2 alternatives that i could use instead of pine as the fretboard and they would be

1, i have two peices of oak wide enough but neither long enough for the full neck, i could make it a 2 peice fretboard, with a joint around the 18th fret, but other then a maverick X-Treme guitars i dont think this is a regular thing

2, wait till i get paid and get a cheap rosewood or maple one off ebay - only problem is this goes againt my plan of not using tonewoods and not buying extra materials that i could go without.

i think ill go the oak route as i really want to make this with minimum expense, and if the woods will fit i could pop a strip of pine in there as a 12th fret marker.

worse case scenario i have to remove the fretboard and try again.
Proud owner of Paul Allander PRS styled - Shamray CS-1985
CS-1985 Pics
Jackson RR24 White with black bevels
#8
Quote by SG Commander
dude bad choice in wood oak is horrible for tone you should have use maple or even walnut or something else.



thats not an issue as it will also have the cheapest pickup i can get off ebay in it along with a plastic nut - tone isnt of importance in the slightest its getting the basics of the build.

Plan for my second build (nothing is set in stone yet as if this turn out crap i aint wasting the money on good materials and may do another practice run)

RR Satin Black w/ white pinstripe
MOP sharkfin inlays
EMG 81 Bridge SA Neck
Maple Neck Thru
Mahogany Body
24 Jumbo Fret
Ebony Fretboard
Tuneomatic String Thru
3 way pickup selector
(Basically Roope Latvalas RR but with sharkfin inlays not Crosses)
Proud owner of Paul Allander PRS styled - Shamray CS-1985
CS-1985 Pics
Jackson RR24 White with black bevels
#9
I think this is awesome, stickied.

does oak have any stability as a neck?
#11
Hmm, very interesting. Look's bloody awesome as well considering the woods.

Personally, with Neck-thru's, I prefer the neck to be laminated with contrasting wood. - I think a pine stripe down the middle of the oak would've look killer!

Stickied, can't wait to see how it turns out.
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#12
cheers for the comments guys.

from what ive read oak is very stable as a guitar neck - its rock solid to work with so i dont think its going to be that easy warp, not sure how it will stand up to change in temps though.

i planed the neck & body using a bosch electric plane, great tool, i also used it to angle the headstock, i plan to use a rasp and spokeshave to shape the neck then hand sand it to finish it.

with regards tone from what ive read on the net ive seen very mixed and contrasting reviews, some say it has a very good tone but isnt used for mass production due to the difficulty to work with oak, others say its terrible because of the open grain so im interested in how it will turn out.

ill try to keep updates coming but i wont update if i havent moved forward with the guitar, as all my work is done outside on the few days i get off work it will be a very stop start build.
Proud owner of Paul Allander PRS styled - Shamray CS-1985
CS-1985 Pics
Jackson RR24 White with black bevels
#13
Looks great man. What scale length are you going for and what do you mean by solder side dots?
Quote by asfastasdark
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#14
Oak and ash are very similar, you shouldn't have a problem with tone. And spruce and pine share many similarities.

However, pine will not work as a fretboard. It's going to be much more trouble then it's worth. If you treated oak like maple and finished it it might be alright though.
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
"If I said you had a beautiful body, would you hold it against me?"
#15
by solder side dots what i plan to do is drill the holes for normal side dots fill them with solder then melt it in, hopefully giving me a silver side dot that is soft enough to sand down.

as for fret board i think i might use some of the spare oak i have but it would mean a join in the fretboard as neither are long enough so if they will fit im going to try get the join between the 11th and 12th fret as i dont plan to have inlays and maybe put a 5mm slither of pine in there (also with pine being softer it might blend in the joint and help the visual appeal)
Proud owner of Paul Allander PRS styled - Shamray CS-1985
CS-1985 Pics
Jackson RR24 White with black bevels
Last edited by gtanny at Aug 10, 2009,
#16
I did the same with my guitar and side dots, except I used automotive touch up paint. Came out like a charm, It's something I plan to keep doing as long as I don't want an inlay material.
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
"If I said you had a beautiful body, would you hold it against me?"
#17
Quote by SG Commander
dude bad choice in wood oak is horrible for tone you should have use maple or even walnut or something else.

You couldn't be more wrong.

Maybe you should have a look at the bottom of this thread's first post.

https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1157689
#18
^i wanted to tell him off

Jim's right, Oak is a fine tonewood, why do you think it has been used so widely for acoustics?

And not everyone can go out and buy a nice big board of maple or walnut. It's like $100 to get enough walnut for a neck in a neck through and about 70 for maple her in Aus. Now thats $100 just for enough walnut for a neck, could you imagine what it would be like to get enough for a body?

TS: Pine and Oak are actually tonewoods
Both are used widely in acoustic guitars(pine used on almost every acoustic guitar for the soundboard) And acoustic guitars rely on the wood much more than an electric. Pine is also used a fair bit on electrics, first Leo fender used it on the early broadcaster models, and secondly the tone that comes from pine is similar to basswood and alder which are both regarded as fine tonewoods.

I really like this build, as I was going to build a guitar with the exact same wood combo, just a different shape.
#20
Quote by SG Commander
dude bad choice in wood oak is horrible for tone

So I take it you've tested many different oak guitars? Because you obviously must have prior experience with oak guitars, I mean, you wouldn't make a comment like that if you hade no knowledge of the subject, would you?

TS, I like the strip of pine idea alot, but I'm not sure how well it would work. But since its only a small section it would probably be ok. The reason fretboards need to be hard isn't to do with strings I figure, so it must be because the frets need to be secure in what they are hammered into. Soft woods (not softwoods) must give a bit after time and the frets could fall out or something.

Could someone clear me up on this?
Last edited by supergerbil at Aug 11, 2009,
#21
SG Commander is on the Not to listen to list tho.
"Black gives way to more black."




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Also, I like black.


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#23
Alright, listen up.

TS specifically said in his OP "all comments welcome but please leave the "but oak aint a tonewood" comments to a minimum please".

So from this post on, anyone talking about the quality (good or bad) of oak or pine as tonewoods will be warned for spam.
#24
I love stoopid people.

Anyways, this build can come out great, regardless of the wood. I think you should take it seriously and look for a perfect outcome, instead of not putting all your abilities into it. Really, I see no problem with any of it. You must take the right precautions though.

It's a good thing that your bridge poles sit on the oak, that seems a little more stable. Shaping the pine should be cake, I'm sure you could do it with a spoon, only if it was golden though. Golden spoons are known for their superior cutting abilities. Fo Trill.

An idea you may want to look into, is rare earth magnets for cavity covers. Since pine is so mushy, stripping a hole is hard to avoid, so avoid screws all together. Plus, then you can just pull the cover off instead of having to unscrew it! It's kind of like after a wedding, when your girlfriend wore a dress to the after party.... it's just easy access.
#25
^ That's an awesome idea

Although, I think the TS would be fine if they were using these screws:


Yes, they are screws.
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#26
cheers for all the feedback and comments guys.

ohspyro89, i am putting all my ability into this build its just im also hoping my ability will improve with it so im hoping for as perfect as i can get with my present ability with the next one being better as my ability should of improved.

as for cavity covers, wouldnt having magnetic cavity covers mean i would have to have a handle or grip of some sort to remove them (i suppose i could get a screwdriver down the side though) i was planning on using screws but screw with very big threads on them and a lot longer then typical cavity screws... also im putting both strap pins in the oak instead of the end of the longer horn.

anyway onto the update (and a problem i noticed along the way)

so then last night i spent with a sander and a rasp sorting out the contours and tidying the body shape (pretty much final apart from a slight sanding)
Pics:

arm contour and cutaway


belly contour



onto today, the arrival of my truss rod (i think its a bit short can you advise please)

dry run of layout



and the problem picture



as you can see even though id practiced on a few bits of spare pine and oak on the final run it still proved its not as easy as expected, i did use a guide but it was only on one side and it decided it wanted to jump a bit (atleast with using the guide i still ended up with a good straight line one side)


at present the fretboard is clamped together and awaiting the glue to dry so hopefully a few more pics tomorrow/saturday
Proud owner of Paul Allander PRS styled - Shamray CS-1985
CS-1985 Pics
Jackson RR24 White with black bevels
#27
looks nice. can't wait
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#28
Make sure you fill the cavity with something. Silicon is what has always been recommended to me. That way the truss rod won't rattle.

Length looks like it should be okay.

And yes, if you use magnets you'll have to notch the cavity somewhere to provide a finger hold to pry it off. You could always try to sink some coils into the holes and then use bolts. But I don't know how well that would hold in pine...
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
"If I said you had a beautiful body, would you hold it against me?"
#29
http://www.luthierssupplies.co.uk/
Very cheap fretboard blanks here (maple is VERY cheap from here, Grade A plain maple fretboard blank is £2.40) so you might not have to have an oak fretboard or go on ebay.

It's lookin' real nice so far man, great to see someone going against the whole "IT NEEDS TO BE ALDER OR MAHOGANY" mindset.
#30
another update, i got the day off work so i thought id make some progress, im also off tomorrow but until i get paid i think the build wont progress much faster, i may get some marking done for the frets (possibly some cutting but i dont think much else will progress until i get some hardware only 14 days to go though

anyway onto the updates:

Fretboard attached and sanded down



neck carving done (ive decided on a rarther chunky neck mainly because it gives me the coice to make it thinner at a later date should i choose too.



nut attached, bridge recessed and headstock also finalised



and just a close up of the recessed bridge




appologies for the quality of the pics but the wife is out with the camera tonight and tomorrow.

a couple of comments id like to make:

WOW spokeshaves are awesome, so easy to use if you get the blade set correctly, but not the best of acesses on the bigger horn had to improvise a bit for that.

im not too happy with the joint at the 12th fret or the side of the fretboard in a couple of places.. but this will be sorted with some oak wood filler

and finally, sanded oak feels really nice as a neck, im not sure with oak if it must be finished or not but its really nice natural (i think it may need finishing though as some bits at the edge of the fretboard splintered and stabbed me while i was checking it.

anyway enjoy guys/gals/

also cheers punk ninja but by the time id read your post my oakypiney 3 part board was glued and clamped
Proud owner of Paul Allander PRS styled - Shamray CS-1985
CS-1985 Pics
Jackson RR24 White with black bevels
#31
Looking good. What pups are you going to use? I'm assuming GFS or something to keep cost low.
#32
im just using any cheap humbucker i can get off ebay, either that or im also refinishing my wifes LP copy and if i get her some new humbuckers i may steal hers.

also to keep costs low and for what i plan with this guitar is its only going to have a volume knob and cheap tuners, im hoping for <£20 for the hardware, the only thing i will need to spend full price for is fretwire as i want to practice finishing frets.
Proud owner of Paul Allander PRS styled - Shamray CS-1985
CS-1985 Pics
Jackson RR24 White with black bevels
#33
cool!

I made an oak neck today, and it looks really nice! I've also used some teak varnish which makes it look even better.

Can't wait to see this finished
#34
this build looks really good, i think it shows that you don't have to spend a lot on materials to get a really nice quality sort of build on your guitar.

Reminds me of this:


but an electric obv.
EH


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#35
Old Oak is a nice tonewood. Roger at Fylde has made one or two acoustics out of 100 year old whisky barrel stathes. I'd have gone for Beech or similar for the fretboard (find an unwanted bedhead or coffee table) as it machines so well.
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