Poll: Is this a good idea?
Poll Options
View poll results: Is this a good idea?
Yes, it will sound great
4 40%
No, it will sound terrible
0 0%
No, it won't work
4 40%
No, it won't affect the sound
1 10%
No, it's not worth the effort
1 10%
Voters: 10.
Is it plausible to swap the 6L6GC tubes that come stock in the Peavey Valveking series with another power tube? If so, what would it do to the sound, and what would i have to do to swap the tubes? would it require a re-bias or could i just drop the new tubes in in place of the old ones? i was thinking about putting EL34's in it instead, hoping that it would give it a more marshally sound. Is this a good idea or terrible idea?
try the 'guitar gear and accessories' forum, there is a sticky called 'all you ever wanted to know about tubes'. that should sort you out.

Edit - sorry the stick seems to have disappeared
I've been imitated so well I've heard people copy my mistakes.
- Jimi Hendrix
Last edited by dr_john at Aug 17, 2009,
no the tubes are not switchable in that it will not accept el34`s

this might be a long read but this was posted on the peavey forums which is the best guide to the vk tubes

I keep reading the same questions about this amp over & over. Here's the compilation of my experience with this amp all in one place for the noobs who keep asking, and dont believe or hear what we repeatedly offer up;

1. Pre amp tubes; The stock EH pre amp tubes are the pits IMHO, harsh and edgy, not at all complimentary to the amp. Dump em. I would recommend Mullard 12AX7 in V-1, Sovtek LPS in V-3 and whatever gives you the overdrive tone you like to hear in V2. I have a sovtek LPS in mine, and have tried Mullared re-issue, NOS phillips with good results too. You can use JJ's, Tung-sol, whatever. Stay away from the cheap sovtek wa/wb/wc. They dont enhance what the amp is capable of. If you really want the amp to sound its best, step up to a NOS Mullard CV4004 in V1. Pricey but IMHO the best there is, anywhere, in this amp and most others in this position. Mismatched is OK, even preferable. Experiment and get your amp sounding the way you want it to sound with pre amp tubes. Dont worry about getting zapped swapping tubes, only if messing with the amps internals.

2. Removing Pre amp tubes; A little tip for you. I had a helluva time working the V-1 tube out of my Valvekings(112 & 212) the first time. That little bas*&^rd was in there so tight I thought I'd never get it out. Secret:Cut yourself a little piece of that rubbery, webby stuff they put in drawers & shelves to keep stuff from sliding around. This stuff will let you get enough of a grip on the tube, hopefully, to work it back & forth gently, over & over & over, till eventually, it will allow itself to be pried from its spot. A little wd40 on the pins of the new tube will help avoid the problem to some degree the next time, or if you want to swap around with greater ease to experiment. A MAJOR pain in the butt, IMHO. Hardest tube to get out I have EVER encountered in ANY amp, bar none. You are not alone, bud. The collar covers nearly the entire tube. You need to be a contortionist. Work it! It WILL come out eventually, and if you're patient, you wont even break anything. V-1 is closest to the input jack, V3 the easiest to get at. Guess which one is V-2? LOL!

3. Power tubes; The stock Sovtek WXT+ are decent, but a tad edgy/bright. Remember they are about the cheapest available. Some on this forum like the JJ's and SED 6L6. I use the Tungsol KT66's. IMHO, there is no 6L6 that can match the tone of these, and my amp kills. Great cleans, great OD, quiet, no humming. Apparently, not all KT's will work safely due to current draw and potential damage to the power transformer. The tungsol & Sovtek KT's are direct replacement for 6L6, and they WILL work. I got those tube spring retainers for my KT's. Dont forget to put the retainers screws back in the tube bases since they hold the bases in. The cage & bear trap tube retainers must go for the KT's to fit. As for tone, YMMV. KT66's WILL NOT FIT IN THE 212 & VK100, they're too big. The power tubes should be a matched pair, and they DO NOT need to be biased. Plug & play.

4. Speaker; I happen to like the stock speaker, but I had to learn a bit about the amp before I was satisfied with it. A couple of my guitars made it fart out on the bottom 4 or 5 notes. At first I just didnt use them with the amp, then I tried the bright button; Farting issue solved.

5. Feedback issues; If you have your gain on 8-10, master on 8-10 and the boost & loudness on, the amp is going to feedback and sound really bad in most circumstances. If this describes your settings and problem, you have got the wrong amp(not enough power) and are most likely deaf anyhow. What?

6. Reverb issues; If you have the reverb control set above half way and the reverb sounds crappy, DUH! You have it set too danged high. Forum members have swapped out reverb tanks with some positive results. but if you set ANY spring reverb on most amps above half way they too will not sound good. DONT tighten down the screws, it's supposed to float. Make sure the plugs are in all the way. Beyond that, if you dont like it, get a pedal and run it in the loop.

7. Unhappy Metal players; though capable of some metal tones, this is not a metal amp per se. Not enough power, not the kind of gain you might seek. You can put a pedal in front of it, but you'd be happier with a 6505 or XXX. They have the power and are designed more for your style of music. If you bought the amp because it was the only tube amp you could afford, and you have it cranked to the max, you bought the wrong amp. See #5 above.

8. The problems I have must be because it's made in China; Preposterous. Where is your beloved HD big screen TV made? If your amp happens to actually be defective, after checking out the above, sorry. But I have owned many of these, currently have the 112 & 212, and I like both. Havent had a problem yet that couldnt be solved with tube swaps or simple maintenance. IF the 212 could handle KT66's I'd be happier, but THEY WONT FIT IN THE 212 or VK100.

9. Texture a/b dial; I run mine at full a/b setting. IMHO the A setting robs the amp of all its tone and sounds constipated. I like the speaker loose. Just me, YMMV.

10. Design flaws; The only ones I can point to are the jewel light is red so you cant swap out the color, and when you plug an ext. cab into the amp, it cuts off the internal speaker. This is really the only serious flaw I find in the amp, and only applies to the 112. Peavey, fix these two things and the amp approaches perfection, IMHO.

In conclusion, this is a great and versatile amp. It is not the best amp ever made, and is not capable of everything in the world. It is very versatile, and each guitar seem to like a slightly different setting. It is super adjustable. ADJUST IT! Try the tubes recommended, work with the amps settings, twist the dials and LISTEN. What you think you know about other amps may not apply here, it is its own animal. It may not be for you, but if you think not, try again. The tone you want is most likely in there somewhere. That has been my experience. Hope this covers most of it, and hope this helps some of you.

basically get rid of the stock tubes but you can only replace with 6l6gc and 12ax7 just use better manufacturers such as jj,sovtek and mullard
Last edited by ibanezgod1973 at Aug 17, 2009,
i can`t believe peeps are still saying yes in the poll even though it`s physically impossible and peavey say it cant be done