The truss rod is accessed via the sound hole and so when I am looking up from the base of the guitar (from the body), in which way would I turn the truss rod if I wanted to loosen it? Because I strum hard and so I need a bit more of a bow and also, I pressed down the 1st and 14th fret and there was no gap at the 6th fret..

That is how I am looking at it, ignore the diagram on the right.
Last edited by livnew at Aug 20, 2009,
with anything that screws in it is made to tighten to the right, and loosen to the left so you'd turn anti clockwise, just remember, "Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey" sounds silly but it works. so put your allen key in with the bar acing upwards at right angles to the guitar and then push it to the left as you would see it from your diagram

It's nice to see someone who wants to adjust their truss for the right reason for a change as well rather than thinking it's a magic wand that will solve all problems of action, it can affect action a little but it's not the truss' main job which is as you quite rightly say to adjust the amount of bowing in the neck under the tension of the strings
Last edited by sillybuuger12 at Aug 20, 2009,
Ok thanks guys, just out of interest, on an electric guitar with the truss rod at the head, would you turn it right to loosen and left to tighten since it is like the opposite? Sorry for some dumbass questions lol
always left remember, if you're faccing the end where the screw head/ allen bolt head/ whatever is it's "Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey". It's the same for everything because that's how the threads on the screw work. Just make sure you have the right size of allen key otherwise you might strip it though, also if you adjust the truss on an electric remember to re-do the inonation on it.
you don't have to wory about intonation on acoustics though
Quote by ethan_hanus
Never turn it more than an 1/8 of a turn at a time, then let it sit over night before turning it again.

Nope. That is totally unnecessary. You can adjust as much as you need and tune up again without worry.
Last edited by GC Shred Off at Aug 20, 2009,
put a capo on the first fret, then your finger on at 17th if there is a gap turn it clockwise
if there is not enough gap turn it counter clockwisse
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sillybuuger12, there are such things as reverse threads or left-hand threads, so by saying that everything that has threads is "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" is wrong.

GC, it's preferable to make small adjustments to the truss followed by a rest period. extremely delicate necks or very old ones won't take kindly to great changes fast and could cause cracks in the wood to appear, or splitting the fretboard away from the neck wood. while an 1/8th turn is minor, it's still a good idea to give the neck wood the time it needs to adapt to the new tension change. you may see results immediately, but perhaps not the complete benefit of the change. and you know as well as I that a little goes a long way with truss rods. but the guitar can most certainly be played and retuned during the wait period to readjust the truss, there's nothing wrong with that.
Ok I made the change yesterday, by pulling the wrench towards me a quarter turn (so left if your looking at the diagram). However, there is still no gap at the 6th fret when pushing down 1st and 14th fret. Then I did it again this morning and still no luck. Help?
Last edited by livnew at Aug 21, 2009,
Enough with the rest period myth. Loosen it all the way if you want to, and see where the neck is there. Make whatever adjustments you need, so long as you are certain you know how to read the neck and feel the rod properly. If you aren't, take it in to a tech.

The neck adjusts in real time - adjusting the tension on a truss rod is the same as adjusting tension on the strings, and the argument to adjust in baby steps is pretty much the same as saying that when you retune your guitar you should only adjust the tuner a maximum half a turn per day. Of the tens of thousands of truss rods I've adjusted, I may run across one neck in a hundred that will have any "settling in" of a truss rod in days after adjustment (brand new instruments excluded), and in those cases, you adjust it however far it needs to go, then if it shifts or settles you readjust accordingly after that.

Anyway, to the Original question - please take no offense at this, as I'm honestly trying to be nothing but constructive. I think it may be wise to take this in to a tech and see if they can do an evaluation and demonstrate adjustment of the neck for you. There are lots of ways to evaluate a neck's condition, and occasionally curves and twists that can be irregular and lead you to make improper adjustments if you're only looking at one facet. Adjusting a neck is simple if you know how to do it, and you're not likely to screw anything up unless you torque it too far, but it can be helpful to have a bit of first hand assistance to guide you if you've never adjusted or evaluated it before.
Collins Luthiery
Last edited by David Collins at Aug 21, 2009,
What I don't understand is how when I was adjusting my friends strat's truss rod, the rod snapped before it even came close to a neutral bow.... has any one heard of this happening before??
Quote by filthylittleboy
What I don't understand is how when I was adjusting my friends strat's truss rod, the rod snapped before it even came close to a neutral bow.... has any one heard of this happening before??

yeah, they will snap if they're over tightened to loosened too much. chances are that truss rod was just waiting for somebody to turn it so it could break. a good solid truss rod wouldn't snap like that under normal circumstances, so chances are it wasn't your fault you broke it at all.
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