#1
hey guys, so my epi AJ acoustic was chilling in it's case today in my dorm closet and i opened itup, and it fell face down (in the case) on the ground... apparently you can break the head off that way... lesson learned

but anyways, i've seen stuff about repairing broken headstocks and stuff, but there seem to be 2 ways to fix it... once is with gorilla glue wood, and one is with Titebond Original..

which one is better to use? any tips? thanks!
My Guitars:
Gibson Les Paul Studio
Epiphone AJ
Ibanez Strat Copy

Amps:
Orange Tiny Terror Head
Old beaten up Peavey cab
Marshall MG30DFX
#2
i've been working at a hardware store for like half a year, and the one that i've heard works better is the gorilla glue. we've actually had 2 seperate customers with this problem haha and it worked very well on both.
SHEEEEEIT DAWG GET DA HELL OUT MY SIG!

Quote by brandon369852
"I think my friend might kill herself."
"Dude, I think you should call the cops."
"I have a better idea. I'll ask the Pit."
#3
awesome... do you know if it expands like normal gorilla glue does? just curious...
My Guitars:
Gibson Les Paul Studio
Epiphone AJ
Ibanez Strat Copy

Amps:
Orange Tiny Terror Head
Old beaten up Peavey cab
Marshall MG30DFX
#4
titebond. use that.
Quote by FatalGear41
I wouldn't call what we have here on the Bass Forum a mentality. It's more like the sharing part of an AA meeting.

Quote by Jason Jillard
HUMANITY WHATS WRONG WITH YOU.


Warwick Fortress>>Acoustic AB50

http://www.myspace.com/rustingbloom
#5
^this, Original to be more specific
R.I.P. Les Paul, 1915-2009
Quote by Shinozoku
You have a walnut stop sign banjo-tar signed by MAB

˙ןooɔ sı uosɐǝɹ ןɐǝɹ ou ɥʇıʍ ƃıs ɹnoʎ uı ʇxǝʇ uʍop ǝpısdn ƃuıʇʇnd
Quote by Scowmoo
You deserve an Awesome Award for Awesome People.
Seriously.

Stop Sign Guitar? HELL YES!
#7
I used Gorilla Wood Glue to glue my neck blank and body blank together, and I'm very happy so far.

It does not expand like Gorilla Original.

Looks feels and tastes appears to act like Titebond Original.
build 1, finished 1/15/11

Every time I try to pick it up like falling sand,
As fast as I pick it up,
it runs away through my clutching hands.
There's nothing else I can really do...
#8
it is completely separated... it has a good fit when placed back together... also has a lot of surface area (diagonal split) to be glued which i think is a positive thing...

it also has a good area for a clamp.

how much do you think it would be to have it done by a luthier? i'm just starting in college and don't have much money to spend if it won't play as good as it did before.... as in I'm considering fixing this as best I can, and then just getting a new guitar when i have money around christmas...
My Guitars:
Gibson Les Paul Studio
Epiphone AJ
Ibanez Strat Copy

Amps:
Orange Tiny Terror Head
Old beaten up Peavey cab
Marshall MG30DFX
#9
As an experienced woodworker, I have to recommend Titebond Original. The other brands and even the epoxy will work, but Titebond Original will give you the best joint.
Quote by Øttər
Ninja, I dunno who you are but I like you.... so far....
Quote by Shaggy Shadric
My Teddy bear is God. DO NOT QUESTION MY TEDDY!
Quote by MatrixClaw
It's a good thing I like boobs or I'd be more pissed that you just bumped a 2 week old thread for that


Not part of the Bass Militia
#10
Quote by FightinIrishPJ
it is completely separated... it has a good fit when placed back together... also has a lot of surface area (diagonal split) to be glued which i think is a positive thing...

it also has a good area for a clamp.

how much do you think it would be to have it done by a luthier? i'm just starting in college and don't have much money to spend if it won't play as good as it did before.... as in I'm considering fixing this as best I can, and then just getting a new guitar when i have money around christmas...

Dont have it done by a luthier, youll pay a lot more than if you do it yourself. You just need whichever glue you choose to go with, and clamps. Put in a thin layer of glue, clamp it for 24 hours, then wait another day or two to string it up and play, and it will play just as good as before
Impossible is Nothing
#11
Quote by solomon684
Dont have it done by a luthier, youll pay a lot more than if you do it yourself. You just need whichever glue you choose to go with, and clamps. Put in a thin layer of glue, clamp it for 24 hours, then wait another day or two to string it up and play, and it will play just as good as before



that was my original plan... the guitar was only 230 bucks... so im not spending over 30 bucks for it to be done by a pro.... and clamps and glue should be well under that even...

thanks for the encouragement... now i need to find a person with a car, and a hardware store... lol
My Guitars:
Gibson Les Paul Studio
Epiphone AJ
Ibanez Strat Copy

Amps:
Orange Tiny Terror Head
Old beaten up Peavey cab
Marshall MG30DFX
#12
if you buy the clamps and do it yourself, you don't have to buy them again!!! how cool is that!!!!
Quote by FatalGear41
I wouldn't call what we have here on the Bass Forum a mentality. It's more like the sharing part of an AA meeting.

Quote by Jason Jillard
HUMANITY WHATS WRONG WITH YOU.


Warwick Fortress>>Acoustic AB50

http://www.myspace.com/rustingbloom
#13
Quote by FightinIrishPJ
that was my original plan... the guitar was only 230 bucks... so im not spending over 30 bucks for it to be done by a pro.... and clamps and glue should be well under that even...

thanks for the encouragement... now i need to find a person with a car, and a hardware store... lol

I cant help you with those two

Post pics of the guitar of how it is now and after you fix it
Quote by the humanity
if you buy the clamps and do it yourself, you don't have to buy them again!!! how cool is that!!!!

And you even get to keep them!!!
Impossible is Nothing
#14
GENERATION 11: The first time you see this, copy it into your sig on any forum and add 1 to the generation. Social experiment.
#15
Quote by David Collins
If it's that cheap a guitar and your budget is that tight, go ahead and glue it up yourself. When I say it's a fairly cheap job to have done professionally, I'm talking about usually $80-$120 to start without touchup, so I guess it's all relative. You won't likely get as clean a repair as a professional shop may be able to achieve, but if you're careful you should at least be able to make it solid and playable.


With a full separated headstock, alignment can be the tricky part. You can dry clamp it before glueing to get your clamping pattern and positions down, but once you apply the glue it can clamp much differently. Because of the angle of the break relative to the surfaces you are clamping, you are essentially clamping two wedges together, and wet glue can act more as a lubricant than an adhesive in initial clamping. So it can be quite a trick to keep the headstock well aligned when clamping it together with glue, and since it will often want to slide apart as you clamp it down, it's best if you can also apply pressure to the end to keep it together.
I've been told that if you take a staple, and drive it partway into one side of the break, then nip the "crossbar" off of it and clamp it, it wont slide at all. I've never tried it, but it makes sense.
Quote by Øttər
Ninja, I dunno who you are but I like you.... so far....
Quote by Shaggy Shadric
My Teddy bear is God. DO NOT QUESTION MY TEDDY!
Quote by MatrixClaw
It's a good thing I like boobs or I'd be more pissed that you just bumped a 2 week old thread for that


Not part of the Bass Militia
#16
Quote by David Collins
If anyone's interested I'd be happy to post some pics showing how I go about a headstock repair. Of course the tools I use aren't going to be available to do-it-yourselfers, but if you want to see it just let me know.
It's always interesting to see how other people do things.
Quote by Øttər
Ninja, I dunno who you are but I like you.... so far....
Quote by Shaggy Shadric
My Teddy bear is God. DO NOT QUESTION MY TEDDY!
Quote by MatrixClaw
It's a good thing I like boobs or I'd be more pissed that you just bumped a 2 week old thread for that


Not part of the Bass Militia
#17
I'm loving that jig. If I did more repairs, I'd have to make me one. Heck, I might make one anyway, as it doesn't look too difficult to build.
Quote by Øttər
Ninja, I dunno who you are but I like you.... so far....
Quote by Shaggy Shadric
My Teddy bear is God. DO NOT QUESTION MY TEDDY!
Quote by MatrixClaw
It's a good thing I like boobs or I'd be more pissed that you just bumped a 2 week old thread for that


Not part of the Bass Militia
#18
Does repairing a neck with a jig like that and all that work and preparation give you a better end result than using titebond or gorilla wood glue, and some clamps?
Impossible is Nothing
#19
Quote by David Collins
Now I know this whole pictorial is of little use to someone doing it at home, but hopefully can at least give a little bit of insight as to what to look out for when repairing a headstock.
Pretty much that.

This is an interesting contrast to another thread I like to refer to when someone has a broken headstock.

Broken Headstock - Epi Les Paul [PICS]

Quote by solomon684
Does repairing a neck with a jig like that and all that work and preparation give you a better end result than using titebond or gorilla wood glue, and some clamps?
No. David just does that because he enjoys wasting manhours, money, and brain-power on something that won't make a difference.


Srsly dude, common sense will tell you the closer you can get two pieces to their original location and the more glue you can squeeze out of the joint, the stronger it will be.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
Last edited by SomeoneYouKnew at Aug 26, 2009,
#20
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
No. David just does that because he enjoys wasting manhours, money, and brain-power on something that won't make a difference.


Srsly dude, common sense will tell you the closer you can get two pieces to their original location and the more glue you can squeeze out of the joint, the stronger it will be.

Shouldve phrased it better... I meant will the result be noticeably better. I assumed it was going to be better, but how much better, like would you notice a difference after its all assembled and your playing it
Quote by David Collins
lots of text

You said that with it you get "higher quality and consistency on the whole than I could get before," but how do you notice a difference? Do you do some sort of test on the repaired area, or is it just aesthetic?

Also, why do you prefer hide glue over something like titebond?


Edit: Wow I just asked a lot of questions
Impossible is Nothing
#22
Quote by David Collins
That link has some good information, but I have to add the disclaimer that I have some serious disagreements with the author on a few picky points. I've spent a great deal of time studying adhesives, from their history, applications, chemistry, and tested qualities, and I particularly object to his criticisms of fish glue. That will lead us to another long topic altogether though....
Agreed. I used fish glue in a marine application (2-layer transom). Was very pleased with the result. Obviously it had additives to make it non-hygroscopic.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.