#1
I just picked up a really cheap ($25) Samick TR2 Torino. it had a v8 ibanez pickup and 1 stock pickup. the reason it was so cheap was the neck(a set neck) seems to have been snapped off and glued back in, not a bad job done, its actually playable.. but still.

anyways I bought this with the intention of learning how to repaint a guitar properly and possibly screw with some mods or repairs.

first off I want to strip it off the laquer on the body. I noticed in a big chip that was missing that the laquer is like on top of paper that has a quilted design printed on it. its pretty easy to pick off but in this case what would be the best way to do it. my dad(pipe fitter/ maintinance for 20 some odd years... knows his ****) said strong solvent, some people say solvent some say sandpaper or steel wool or a heat gun. for this case whats the best bet?... with the paper and all.

secondly.. after I'm down to the wood I was thinking letting a buddy of mine who does sick spray paint graffiti repaint it then put a laquer over that. lets pretednd this guitar is actually a real working guitar, would there be any real detriment to doing that?

thanks everyone, Im here to learn
Last edited by somekid413 at Aug 28, 2009,
#2
First off, how do you know its lacquer on the body? Becuase if its not, and its polyurethane, its gonna be a lot harder to strip.

If it is lacquer, you can use paint stripper, which I did just a day or two ago, and sand off the remaining paint. You can also strip it by sanding or with a heat gun. Check out these tutorials and pick whichever method you like best:

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/chem.htm
http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/burn.htm
http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/sand.htm

To the second question, no there wouldnt be a problem if you do everything right
Impossible is Nothing
#3
just get several grades of sandpaper (numbers around 80, 200,400, 800, 1000)
take of the paint, then use higher grade paper and get it nice and smooth, flat, ect.

and the graffiti, well, i would test the paints and laquer together before i put it on a guitar, ive had alot of trouble with the clear cote melting paint, or running on diff types of paint..

but the graffiti should look awesome! and original too, thats allways great


oh and pics! we all like PICTURES! HAHAHAH


so yeah, sandpaper, test the paint on scrap, and send us some pics!

edit. somewhat to late..
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#4
well i read through the laquering forum and such and my biggest surprise was the dam paper under the finish. the laquer is wicked easy to pick offf but none of the tutorials i've seen mention the paper.

if its just paper stuck on there i could just use some goo-gone to get it off
#5
Quote by somekid413
well i read through the laquering forum and such and my biggest surprise was the dam paper under the finish. the laquer is wicked easy to pick offf but none of the tutorials i've seen mention the paper.

if its just paper stuck on there i could just use some goo-gone to get it off

From the description, it sounds like it might be a veneer top. They're only about 1/42" thick which is why is seems like paper, and it has a design so you can have a nicer looking guitar when you stain/dye the top, its one way to get the quilted/flamed look you see on some gibsons, PRS, etc (even though I think they do it differently), so you may want to leave the "paper" on

Pics would help though
Impossible is Nothing
#6
several website reads later...

rom the sounds of it your right, it does have a quilted looking top and probably is veneer. so why cant I take that off? will there not be solid wood under it? pics will come tonight.
#7
The veneer will be stuck on with glue that will be a real pain to get off. Think of it as trying to take apart a 2 piece body blank.
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#8
well seeing as I was planning on giving it a graffitti spray paint job or something equally ridicules, could I just spray the veneer and lacquer all that? it would save me a coat of primer I guess.
#9
Quote by somekid413
well seeing as I was planning on giving it a graffitti spray paint job or something equally ridicules, could I just spray the veneer and lacquer all that? it would save me a coat of primer I guess.

Yea, since it would be a pain in the ass to take off, you can leave it on and the pattern on it will be covered up with the spray paint, but your still going to need a coat of primer, since veneer is still wood

And make sure the primer/spray paint for grafitti/clear coat are all the same type of paint (such as lacquer) or youll run into problems
Impossible is Nothing
#10
well maybe its not veneer... it seriously looks and feels like thin thin cardboard where someone peeled off the top shiny layer... dont worry pictures coming soon... I'm at work and itching to get this ball rolling.
#11
Here we go! Pictures!!


so these first 2 shots are of the body. I took out all the electronics and such...ibanez v8 and stock pu(probably worth more than what i paid for the thing)..hopefully they work

if you look close between the left horn and the neck a chunk of wood is missing, filled in and painted black... booo.

but anyways, the final image is a big chunk of the clear coating missing. the material below it feels like cardboard. I know veneer is a thin layer of wood could it be a thin layer of wood with a sticker stuck on in?

soo, more thoughts would be awesome. I went through the repainting forum and a bunch of websites but none of them mention this veneer or whatever the hell this is.






Last edited by somekid413 at Aug 28, 2009,
#12
You said "but anyways, the final image is a big chunk of the clear coating missing. the material above it feels like cardboard." What material is above the clear coat?? Dont really understand that

Since the guitar has a quilted pattern, it either has a veneer top or a maple cap, which is about 1/4" thick. I say strip the body however you want to do it and post pics of the front, side, and back to get a better idea of whats on it

Also, if you choose to strip by sanding, be careful because if it is a veneer top, its easy to sand right through it
Impossible is Nothing
#14
Quote by somekid413
I meant below the clear coat... I edited it but it mustve not saved yet

Might just be the paint, kinda hard to tell without seeing it/feeling it in person, ya know?

Anyway, Id say strip the finish first and worry about what else is on the body after
Impossible is Nothing
#15
thats the plan... just time to decide how to strip it.. i think im kinda stuck with chemicals... i know I suck at sanding and a heat gun would loosen up all the glue holding the neck on
#16
also, is there any way/ is it worth it to pull out those metal plug things that the tailpiece and the bridge go into
#17
Quote by somekid413
thats the plan... just time to decide how to strip it.. i think im kinda stuck with chemicals... i know I suck at sanding and a heat gun would loosen up all the glue holding the neck on

Make sure its a lacquer finish thats currently on it if you do chemicals, because if its polyurethane, chemicals wont do much at all. If it was made in a factory theres a good chance its polyurethane, but someone else here would know more about that than I would
Quote by somekid413
also, is there any way/ is it worth it to pull out those metal plug things that the tailpiece and the bridge go into

I left it in when I did it, but I covered it with some masking tape and used an exacto knife to cut around the metal sleeves. That way theres masking tape covering it, but yea Id just leave them in
Impossible is Nothing
#19
some guy posted that it is a polyurethane finish in the harmony central review for it... but is there another way to be sure?
#20
Polyurethane is a helluva lot harder to remove, but other than that I have no idea how to tell. My guess would be that its poly though.

Edit: Found this, may help you

"Should you ever have the unfortunate job of stripping a polyurethane finish, I have found only one chemical stripper which will remove poly; AirCraft Remover by Kleen Strip. It can be found at most automotive paint supply stores."

From http://www.reranch.com/101.htm
Scroll down to the section on stripping
Impossible is Nothing
Last edited by solomon684 at Aug 28, 2009,
#21
yeap.. kleen strip is mentioned be several people in forums and such thats what Im going for. i guess my only concern is it dissolving the glue or whatever is used to hold the neck on. I could reattach it but as I said, the person before me did a pretty good job.
#22
Quote by somekid413
yeap.. kleen strip is mentioned be several people in forums and such thats what Im going for. i guess my only concern is it dissolving the glue or whatever is used to hold the neck on. I could reattach it but as I said, the person before me did a pretty good job.

Yea worst case scenario it loosens the glue on the neck and you just put on some more and reattach it, but I dont think it would loosen the glue
Impossible is Nothing
#23
ok here we go. 2 days its taken me to take off the front polyurethane and veneer top.

for anyone else attempting this. a few things I have learned about that aircraft kleen strip.

It is nasty nasty stuff... i got a little on my finger and it jsut started burning... i washed my brush in a red plastic cup of water and 5 min later there was a hole in the bottom. Nasty stuff.

I found for best results it needs to be laid on real thick and the sweet spot of time was about 40 min. too short and nothing happened to long and the plastic bubbled and then re hardened, once I got underneath the veneer I was able to just lift it all up without much effort.


Heres the guitar with the Kleen on it you can see it starting to disolve.



the edge revealed a really sick looking red wood




ok so all that stuff gone there is a white under layer... looks like some sort of glue or primer. It is proving really dificult to get off. heres my issue, I cant get it off... Ive tried the kleen stuff, walpaper remover, and some other things. Any thoughts on chemicles to do this for me... I guess the next option is a really fine sandpaper


heres some pictures. all comments very welcome.







#24
I'd just sand off the whole thing. It won't take you that long.

Make sure to fill in the gouges or deep scratches with an Epoxy filler, prime, paint, and clear using the same family of paint. If Acrylic, go with Acrylic lacquer from Primer to Clear ... if Nitro, etc.

#25
Quote by Ippon
I'd just sand off the whole thing. It won't take you that long.


wont take long?! WONT TAKE LONG!!! sanding sucks... IDK what this white stuff is but its harder to get off than... well white stuff.

I spent 2 hours trying to sand it by hand (I dont have a random orbital, just a belt, and I don't want to destroy it.) anyways. 2 hours...maybe 1/4 done. looks nice but damn.

No chemicals have worked on this stuff, sanding is just taking ages, but I want this to look nice. (I'm using 120 grit now, started at 300 something)