#1
Title explains it, this was a pretty straightforward, easy job, and I followed graphtech's instructions, which can be found here

Please excuse the picture quality, my camera is awful.

Removed all the strings and the trussrod cover


As per the instructions, I took an x-acto knife and scriped along the edge of the nut so the paint didn't chip.


New nut on the right, old on the left. The new nut was a good bit shorter, but the string holes aren't sawed nearly as deep. I think I actually got sent a gibson nut, rather than an epiphone nut, but hopefully this one will work.



Continued on next post
Last edited by ATLstang at Aug 28, 2009,
#2
New nut mocked up in place, it's a bit too long on the right side.


Easily fixed


Enter your favorite water based wood glue


Here the nut is glued in place, after you have it in snugly, the excess glue will wipe away with a damp cloth.


After 30 minutes, pick up your favorite guitar strings


Now, per the instructions, I strung up and tightened the high E and low E strings. The strings actually work like clamps and set the nut in place. Pretty cool idea, I would never have thought of that


45 minutes later I finished stringing it all up


Now, the new nut sets the strings maybe 1/16" or less lower than the stock nut. This is creating crazy string buzz at the top of the fret board. Hopefully after I tune it up and adjust the action it will be ok. If not I'm gonna take everything apart and make a plastic spacer to set the nut up a little bit higher. It's my fault, I should have read the package carefully and realized I got a gibson nut. I'll get it working though, even if I have to buy a new nut it was only 11 dollars.

Total cost for the project was 15 dollars. It's a very easy mod, and after comparing the stock piece to the new one I can honestly say it was worth it, as the new one is superior in every way.
#3
Thats good and all.
But why did you make a thread about this?

Btw, you were supposed to clamp the nut down for 24 hours.
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#4
yeah that was probably bad having it so much lower. I'll bet you have some bad buzz after everything is said and done.
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#5
Quote by Little_Buster
Thats good and all.
But why did you make a thread about this?

Btw, you were supposed to clamp the nut down for 24 hours.



I thought someone might like to read it.....so sorry to bother you.

And I do have some terrible buzzing, I think I'm gonna try and make a spacer for it. If that doesn't fix it I'll just order a new nut, directly from graphtech, and make sure it's the right one. I have some evergreen hobby sheet stock plastic that's .015" thick, just about how much lower the new nut was, so hopefully that will fix it and I'll be on my merry way.
#6
Quote by ATLstang
I thought someone might like to read it.....so sorry to bother you.

And I do have some terrible buzzing, I think I'm gonna try and make a spacer for it. If that doesn't fix it I'll just order a new nut, directly from graphtech, and make sure it's the right one. I have some evergreen hobby sheet stock plastic that's .015" thick, just about how much lower the new nut was, so hopefully that will fix it and I'll be on my merry way.


Learn next time.



Nah, I was actually just curious why you made a thread about it.
Its all good though
Quote by letsgocoyote
No I'm not Jesus. I would aspire to be though. I think under circumstances he would let you pay less if you needed to.
#7
An alternative to that plastic material, and probably easier to cut to size, would be to use a business card as a shim. You can safely use 1 or 2 pieces if you need to raise the nut that much. Any more than that and you are better off replacing the nut.

Also note that your Sharpie touch-up probably has a slightly purple tint to it. I find that a Marks-A-Lot permanent black marker gives a truer black pigment in color.
Last edited by DezFX at Aug 27, 2009,
#8
Yeah seriously, 30 minutes? That is nowhere near enough time for the glue to dry. 24 hours is what you should to leave it for. If you're too impatient to wait 24 hours, then the job isn't worth doing.
#9
I put the strings on, because they act as a clamp, it was one of the tips that were on the instructions. The strings exert 200 lbs of force on the nut. It's not like I've tuned it up and am playing on it, it will be ok.
#10
This is a direct quote from the FAQ page on graphtech's website.

"To ensure the nut does not fall our or slide around, use some regular wood glue. Neatly dab some glue around the slot and nut and place the nut in the slot. Once you restring your guitar, the 200 pounds of pressure being applied to your nut from your strings will allow the nut to dry tightly against the wood."

I just followed the instructions....geez
#11
You are correct in stringing it up. The only reason you would have to wait is if the strings do not pull straight, such that they pull the nut off to one side when strung up with no glue. But that is very uncommon, so you were safe to do so. The only differences I would have made is that I would have strung it up immediately and tuned it, or at least got it near correct tuning to add more pressure on the nut.
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Last edited by DuctTapeNinja at Aug 28, 2009,
#12
Quote by ATLstang


After 30 minutes, pick up your favorite guitar strings






Ernie Balls, WHY?!!

Anyways. Cool project. I've got one in the mail ATM for my Pacifica.
#13
*UPDATE*

Ok, so yesterday I took a piece of .015" black plastic stock and cut it to the size of the new nut, and glued it to the bottom. After comparison, the string heights were nearly identical to the stock nut . I re-installed the new nut, and strung it up, and let it sit overnight. This morning before class I decided to bring the strings in tune and give it a quick rundown. Instant improvement! Immediately I noticed that the strings came in tune much more quickly, and it took a few less turns of the crappy tuning keys to bring the strings in tune (I play in drop D). I guess this can be attributed to either the teflon in the new nut, which decreases string binding, or the fact that the gibson nut doesn't have as deep string pockets as the epiphone nut (see pics above). Either way, that alone made this small mod worth it.

Also, after just a few strums there is a noticeable difference in tone. The sustain of my guitar is much higher, and the strings sound much clearer and brighter. I haven't plugged it into the amp yet, but I'd imagine the sound is improved a bit.

Honestly, when I first did this, I just wanted a project to work on (I like wrenching on my guitar, and I'll tackle anything for the experience), and I didn't think that there would be a difference, but I was wrong. For 15 dollars or so this has to be one of the most cost effective mods you can tackle on a budget guitar for a noticeable improvement. So I give the graphtech black Tusq XL nuts an A+.

And just in case anyone was wondering, here is the nut I bought. Just remember that if you buy this to put on an epiphone you have to shim it up a tad. I actually prefer the way the string pockets are cut on the gibson nut.
Gibson Nut

And if anyone wants a direct fit, here's the epiphone nut.
Epiphone Nut

They have nuts for most all brands and also blanks to shape yourself. I HIGHLY recommend this mod, especially for owners of Epiphone or Squier guitars with plastic nuts.
#14
I' getting my SG back from the luthiers with a tusq nut on it next week
I to got a gibson one without realising it was different though.Oh well,atleast it's not the other way around.
Seagulls,the chicken of the ocean.

Originally posted by Gunpowder:
Everyone just jumps on the bandwagon and gives the same advice in these situations. You know what? I'm going to be different. Call the firemen.
#15
I'm just happy that it actually makes a difference. The reason I posted this is because I know a lot of my local guitar buddies are scared to mess with the string nut, and I wanted to show anyone who isn't confident at this kind of stuff that it's an easy job, and it's worth doing.
#16
Quote by David Collins
Putting a nut on, getting the strings centered, and creating a relatively acceptable action at the nut is not that hard to do by fitting it from the bottom. To truly get it right though, there is no alternative to cutting the slots individually to set the final string height. This is one of the hardest things to learn how to do well in a setup, and generally takes a bit of practice and experience just to recognize when it is right. Tiny differences here can certainly make a very noticeable difference in playability and first position intonation though. When I teach courses on setup, the making and setup of the nut is always the single hardest part for students to get, yet one of the most important aspects of a good setup. It's normal for them to have to cut at least a dozen or more nuts before they get one that I would consider good enough.
I thought the use of a half-pencil in this tutorial, to mark the nut as a rough guide when filing the slots was a rather clever idea:
http://www.frettech.com/nutz/index.html

Your opinion, David?
Meadows
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#17
I put a "Gibson" nut on my epiphone, and had to sand it down.
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Little Big Muff
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#18
Quote by kiwi68
I put a "Gibson" nut on my epiphone, and had to sand it down.


Who knows? I know some brands intentionally oversize their nuts by design so you can remove material and fit it perfectly to your neck. Mine was definitely smaller than the epi though. Oh well...
#19
Mine was graphtech too, just TUSQ instead of graphite. Idk
My guitar build

My gear:
Blackheart Little Giant Combo
Epiphone Les Paul with Rio Grande TX/BBQ pickup set
Little Big Muff
Blues Driver
#20
Hey, on my old Ibanez Artist the strings are really low on the high E and B strings, but only form frets 1-3. I'm guessing the strings are too deep into the nut, is that possible?

Nice nuts btw.

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#21
youre strings are supposed to be really low by the nut, as long as they arent getting fret buzz.
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