#1
Hey UG,

I'm attempting to repair a Jekyll and Hyde distortion pedal I bought off craigslist, but I'm not quite sure how to go about doing it. When I bought it, the guy said that the overdrive side was acting up, and that in order to get it to work you had to push the switch in once, and then push it again until just before it clicks. When I plugged it in, I got nothing, so I took it apart (Thanks to those who helped me figure out how to remove the circuit board, I'm kinda new at this) and saw that the OUT jack had 3 leeds but only 2 wires going to it. Strangely though, I couldn't find a free wire anywhere, so I'm not quite sure what's going on or where to start. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
#2
Sorry, I'm trying to get some pics up, but all the ones I'm taking are way to big to upload (yeah I know, total noob here, but thanks for your patience)
#3
The output jack may very well be fine. You can wire a stereo jack (3 prongs) for mono use (2 prongs). Sounds like the switch is bad though.


My stompswitch for my Son of Hyde by VisualSound is not a typical 3pdt switch. It doesn't click at all.
Weekend Warrior
Last edited by ML_Guitar09 at Aug 28, 2009,
#4
find the schematic for the pedal. thatd be a good start towards figuring out what the problem might be.
#5
I've looked everywhere for a schematic and have come up empty, that was my first thought too. I think it is one of the jacks though because there's no sound when I use it with my guitar and amp. I've tested the guitar, amp, and cables, so I know the problem must be in the pedal somewhere. The left (overdrive) side of the pedal works fine, the LED comes on when the switch is pushed, but the right (distortion) side doesn't turn on when I press the switch. I know the input jack (left) works, because when I take a cable from the amp when its turned on, I get the the typical buzz and crackle that goes with it. When I try the same thing on the output jack (right) though, there's no noise at all.

I'm thinking there's two problems with it, one with the input/output jacks, because even turned off I should be able to hear something when I play, and one with the Distortion side.
#6
Are the jacks board mounted? If not, it's probably not the jacks. Board mounted jacks tend to break loose or crack the solder and that prevents the signal from passing through. If they are chassis mounted, it's more likely the switch. A multimeter with a continuity setting would be great for verifying the switch is working or not.

You need to do this methodically. Start with the switch(es) and check for any loose wires.
Don't just assume they are good. Really check them out and measure for continuity if you meter has it.

If they test good, it's time to move onto the circuit. This is where a schematic would come in really handy if you could find one.

The Jekyll side is a Tube Screamer and the Hyde side is a Marshall Shredmaster.
There are schematics available for those so you should be able to work your way around it. I think the switches actually are used to actuate a chip to switch so there may be a problem there too.
Last edited by Griffin Effects at Aug 29, 2009,
#7
Finally managed to get some pics to upload. Thanks for your patience everyone, I really appreciate the help. I guess the jacks are chassis mounted, but I'm not really sure what that means. There doesn't seem to be any loose wiring near the switches, both are attached to the circuitboard at all 6 connection points.

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#8
Yes, the jacks are chassis/enclosure mounted as they aren't mounted on the board.
Looks like they just used stereo jack for the output so there should be a wire attached to the empty lug.

I can't really tell from the pictures because they are small and don't enlarge when clicked but I bet that larger chip is what is actually doing the switching and the pushbutton switches actuate the chip. I would concentrate on the pushbutton switch first. Also find the datasheet for the switching chip and see if you can't figure out the input and output of the chip to see if you get sound there.

If the switching is good. I personally would make an audio probe if you don't have one, find a schematic for the Tubescreamer, find the input cap and resistor and the output cap and use the probe to see if you are getting any sound. This will tell you if the circuit itself is working.
#9
Quote by Griffin Effects
Yes, the jacks are chassis/enclosure mounted as they aren't mounted on the board.
Looks like they just used stereo jack for the output so there should be a wire attached to the empty lug.

I can't really tell from the pictures because they are small and don't enlarge when clicked but I bet that larger chip is what is actually doing the switching and the pushbutton switches actuate the chip. I would concentrate on the pushbutton switch first. Also find the datasheet for the switching chip and see if you can't figure out the input and output of the chip to see if you get sound there.

If the switching is good. I personally would make an audio probe if you don't have one, find a schematic for the Tubescreamer, find the input cap and resistor and the output cap and use the probe to see if you are getting any sound. This will tell you if the circuit itself is working.


Yeah sorry about the bad pics. Thats as big as I could get them within the 50kb upload limit. When you say the larger chip you mean the main green circuitboard correct? Any idea what I should look for on the pushbuttons? Both appear to be attached firmly to the board at all 6 connection points beneath the black plastic casing. I haven't managed to get a multimeter yet, but I'll hopefully be doing that soon. I'm not sure exactly what you mean by find a a datasheet for the switching chip to be honest.

There is one weird thing I noticed on the right side of the circuitboard, above and to the right of the red LED. There is what appears to be an empty point where something could or was attached the the circuitboard. It says "S2" underneath and looks just like this-
| : : : |
with each character above being an empty space. To the left of it is printed "RoHs Compliant" as well.

I don't have an audio probe, but I'll take your advice and try make one soon. Any guess on where the missing wire from the output jack should lead? Thanks for your help and your patience all!
#10
When I say the larger chip, I mean the larger black rectangular plastic chip with 16 legs on it. It probably is a CD4053 or something it should say it on it. Datasheets tell you information about a part. Say the chip is a CD4053. Type CD4053 Datasheet into a search engine and you will get the datasheet for the CD4053. It will tell you the what all the legs of the chip are for.

Well as far as the switches themselves go, since they are board mounted, I would reheat all of the solders on the switch to make sure they are good. If that doesn't work, check the switch for continuity.

I see what you are saying about the empty "S2" spot. I doubt that is the problem. It's just there because at one point they had a switch hooked up their in the design or they use the board for other pedals. Parts don't normally just fall out so if there is an empty spot, don't worry about it.

The output jack should probably only have 2 wires going to it. One carries the signal to the output jack tip and the other is ground. There may be more than one wire connected on the ground lug. That empty lug should probably be empty.

You don't have any wires floating around in there not connected to anything do you?
#11
No, no spare wires hanging around I found the datasheet for the chip, its a CD4053BE, although it also has 4CD608K stamped right above the previous number, not sure if that's important. Now that I've got the datasheet though, what do I look for? None of the legs appear to be loose or anything. I did however notice another chip towards the back of the pedal that looked as though it was partially pulled out. It wasn't disconnected, but it was sitting at an angle.

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The pictures are terrible I know, all I've got to work with is my phone camera. With the switches, should I just reheat the solder and let it cool again or should I resolder the switches to the board completely?
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#12
Just contact the company and ask for a schematic. It's a small family run business outside of Nashville...They are all very nice, honest people.